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RPM

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Posts posted by RPM


  1. Back in about 2006 I bought an Air Ride rear cradle as the base for a triangulated 4 link QA1 coil over suspension. For the control arms I made them from 1-1/4" x .095 wall 4130, Tig welded and normalized, tube adapters for 3/4" QA1 xm rod ends.

    I made the lower shock mounts adjustable, and they bolt to the stock spring pad on the rear axle. After assembling I could see something wasn't right. Turned out the upper left coil over mount was 3/4" off. Nice. I could have eye balled it closer than they did. By the time I noticed screwed up mount, Air Ride had been sold to Chris Alston. Should have made my own rear cradle.

     

    IMG_20131110_115232_zps97d88372.jpg

     

    IMG_20131110_115058_zpsa91c46c1.jpg

     

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    IMG_20131110_113836_zps763b05a7.jpg

     

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    Rear lower coil over brackets prior to welding.

     

    IMG_20121008_214558_zps049eef31.jpg

     

    Bob


  2. Had a pair of 70 big bearing drum spindles on hand but didn't know I could use my 69 hubs with different bearings. Doh! I had already made brackets to mount 13" 01 Cobra discs to my 69 disc spindles, but when I learned of the needed bearings I made some brackets for the 70 spindles.

     

    IMG_20131028_173552_zpsad4af4ae.jpg

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    IMG_20131201_162616_zps247420dc.jpg

    IMG_20131201_153326_zpsf91d73b4.jpg

     

    This is why I went with the 13" Cobra front brake. OEM vs 01 Cobra :)

     

     

    user6734_pic981_1326949094_zps9a695c1a.jpg

     

    Bob


  3. Well, I guess you can teach an old dog new tricks.

    Suppose I'll start with the convertible seat risers. As others have done, I spliced the fb model from NPD onto my stock seat risers. Since I had them out with the intent to install the one piece convertible riser, I moved them back 3/4" for leg room. I also installed some self fabbed convertible inner rockers.

     

    IMG_20130515_144010_zpse1a87123.jpg

    IMG_20130519_170709_zps82788846.jpg

    IMG_20130524_164219_zps531f5741.jpg


  4. I just did it on my '69 TA clone racer. I copied that yellow car above, which is here in Houston as well. Its not too hard if you can weld. Here are his pics:

     

    https://1970mustangvintageracer.shutterfly.com/551

     

    I'll try and post pics when my car gets rolled out into daylight. Right now I am installing the rear bulkhead panel and rear roll cage legs.

     

    Dude, post up the roll bar tab pics! Pleeese :)

     

    Bob


  5. I'm in the process of rebuilding my heater. It worked fine 14 years ago when I tore down the car, and decided while the car is apart to get a new heater core. I was looking at what my NPD catalog calls the "Resistor heater switch" and wondered if I should replace it also. Do they go out often? Should I replace it while I'm at it? Is OEM better than after market? BTW, NPD only shows 65-67.

     

    Bob


  6. have you tried to use the crossmember that NPD sells?

     

    No I haven't, but I do like it's design. I think you'd need several eccentric exterminator plates made to adjust the lower arm correctly if the tie in plate is used. Obviously the tie in plate doesn't need to be used, but I think they are reflected in the $200 price. So might as well use them.

     

    Bob


  7. Nice fab work RPM.

     

    I notice the picture Juit posted (WCC) has the reinforcement plate but doesn't have the slotted hole to tie the crossmember to the lower shock tower/LCA like what is shown in the Boss302 manual. It is my opinion that if you were to go through the effort in making a crossmember, that you would tie the LCA to the crossmember.

     

    Thanks buening. I eliminated the eccentric adjusters and offset the bolt hole so that I have two positions for the lca bolt 3/4" apart. The problem trying to use the tie in plate on the cross member is the LCA bolt can be anywhere in the circle pattern of the eccentric. I have an adjustable LCA so my LCA bolt will stay in one position, and have only one bolt hole in the x member plate.

     

    Bob


  8. "IF" this were my car, and since it is not stolen, and only the last registered owner signature is needed, I would conveniently "find" him to sign a bill of sale. He might even be in your neighborhood, or in the parking lot at the DMV. The dmv doesn't know or check to match signatures. I've had extremely good luck locating folks who I needed to sign DMV forms. Or... you can jump thru the DMV hoops and their headaches.

     

     

     

    Bob

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