TomM

Hi Bob, I had a similar issue last summer with my recently purchased 70FB. There are lots of vehicle specific installation kits for the Grant wheels. The PO of my car used the wrong kit and made it fit with a grinder and hacksaw. I ordered the correct kit from Amazon, I think a #3249 and eventually got everything working properly. You can lookup the kit number at www.grantproducts.com. Also, the installation depends on which horn button you use, the deep dish mustang button or the shallow grant button that comes with the wheel. Lastly, check the horn fuse and horn itself. As for the turn signal cancellation, could be the switch or missing parts. I think my setup had the "one wire" wiring. I'd pull the steering wheel and hub off to get a better look at things - remove the horn fuse before removing the wheel. If I remember correctly the Grant hub needed a three bolt puller, not a standard two bolt. Also, depending on the horn button, the Grant instructions have you grinding or cutting a portion of the steering column for proper fit. I did not need to do that. Hopefully once you get wheel and hub off you won't find a hack job under there. Good luck, Tom

I'm looking for the little grille for the non functional hood scoop for my 70FB. I can buy repop but would prefer used oem. Feel free to email me at tminihan1@gmail.com Thanks, Tom

Somewhat Mach1 Driver. That confirms my thought that it should go in the oblong hole on the left. Just eyeballing it, I could probably put it in the lower right corner and be fine. My bezel will be circular with the adjustment knob coming out of the page. Thanks for the pic! Tom

I recently installed sport mirrors on my 1970 FB with standard door panels - previously did not have a remote mirror. The new TMI door panels did not have perforations for the bezel. My inner door skin shows three possible locations, two circular holes and one oblong hole. One circular hole does not interfere with the window crank but could be a knuckle buster. The other circular hole is slightly forward of the window crank - from internet photos it appears the remote should be slightly behind the crank. Is the oblong hole the correct location, and if so, where in that hole is the correct location. Thanks, Tom

Thanks Bob, feel free to email me at tminihan1@gmail.com, let me know how much you want for the setup. Thanks, Tom

Hi Bob - sorry i left out the details, it's for a 302. Thanks, Tom

I'm looking for all of the linkage from the pedal (not including the pedal) to the engine.

Ok, so old accessories, replace the v belt pulleys with a serpentine setup. I'll start doing a little research. Thanks, Tom

Thanks for the tips and diagrams MN69Grande and Stangn. What is the more common approach - retrofit the 70 accessories to the 5.0 or use the 5.0 accessories?

I'm still looking for a powerplant for my 1970 rolling shell. Currently I'm considering a 1998 Mountaineer 5.0 that's been converted to carb, v-belt and front sump, but I can't witness it run before purchase (already been pulled). I'm also looking at a 1996 Explorer 5.0 HO that I can witness run, still has the EFI. I would prefer to have the carb setup but unsure about converting to v belt or sticking with the serpentine. If I get the Explorer motor, will the 1996 PS pump and AC compressor work in a 1970 Mustang or should I install the 1970 pump and compressor? Thanks, Tom

Will the T5 shifter handle line up with the factory hole in the floor?

Hi Bob, Thanks for the reply. $1500 for a turnkey engine/clutch/T5 assembly, carbed. This is a father/son project so I'm looking for something that runs (barely) so I can move the car around until next summer when we can rebuild the motor. There's plenty of "it was running when I pulled it" out there for sale but it's been tough to find something I can verify is in running condition. This setup is currently in a 89 Mustang that can be driven. I'm new to Mustangs so I don't know whether or not it's a good price, but based on a month or so of research, it doesn't seem too bad. Thanks, Tom

I'm considering a 2000 Explorer motor with GT40p heads and a T5 for my 70 FB roller. The setup is currently in an 89 Mustang for sale on CL. Will the motor mounts match my 70 and with the shifter fit in my factory floor cutout? Thanks, Tom

I recently purchased at 70 FB roller. I"m keeping my eyes peeled for 289/302/5.0/351. My preference is to stay close to period correct but not a requirement. I see quite a few 87-93 5.0/C6 or manual combos out there from pickups or Broncos at reasonable prices. Is there any reason I should pass on those or are they suitable as long as you deal with exhaust manifolds etc that may be different from an 87-93 Mustang, in addition to the usual oil pan, timing cover, etc mods. I had started a similar thread in March but could not locate it. I prefer something that is currently running (although not necessarily well). Thanks, Tom

Thanks for the tip. I have a request for quote in with them now. Thanks, Tom

I'm shipping a 70 FB roller from Phoenix, AZ to Washington DC. Uship estimates are coming in at $1500. Does anyone have any contacts or known credible shippers that may be interested? I'm interested in reducing the cost or at least going with a known entity. Thanks, Tom