69frd

In Oz its a Holden Commodore Colour Nickel Metal Mettalic, in the US you guys know them as a Pontiac GTO. Local brand here was Concept Paints, 2 pack clear over base system. I was initially going a very white silver with a black base, but this has pretty much the same effect.

Yeah, really hard to stop these cracking. At fist I tried a few different forms of welding/brazing but nothing would stick to both metals properly, few earlier tries all cracked heavily. Theres also a lot of flex in the front buckets and mounting problems once they are permanantly fixed like how to fix the plastic backing pieces. I ended up fabricating some brackets to support the buckets against the guards in a few spots and expoxying & bolting the pieces together (sorry, don't know if you have a different name in the US). Re-enforced, bolted and epoxied joint was very strong and survived being knock around in the shed during prep & paint; also removed the factory panel joint rubber so the parts have direct contact. BUT!!! these are dis-similar metals and thicknesses and no matter what you do they expand/contract at different rates and will crack, trick I found is to keep this as a minor as possible and mine developed some small hairline cracks only noticable on close inspection. If you simply used filler in the joints you would end up with some pretty big cracks.

Thanks guys for the positive feedback. Rim sizes are 20" rear & 18" front, probably both pretty close to the limit without modifying clearances, can't remember the tire sizes off hand but if you're really insteresed I can check. Speedo does some sort calibration when livened up, I pretty much copied what this guy did but used a different mounting system for the guages. http://www.geocities.com/kvinkler/gauges/page_01.htm And yep sound deadner on the floors & doors, this pic was before the carpet was fitted.

Well 95% anyway.......... Still a few small bugs (you might notice the windscreen wiper :whistling:) Just registered my 1970 Mach 1 that I've been re-building for the last 2 years. The car is an original 351 Cleveland 4V car but was in pretty poor condition when I got it, I ended up having to replace the shock towers, rear 1/4 & taillight panel as part of the build. Ended up going a bit of a different route with a few things, pretty much everything was done at home to save on cost to help pay for parts. Haven't taken any completed pics of the interior or engine bay yet so the ones here are a few weeks old. Car has lots of subtle body mods to give a clean appearance. Engine now is a worked 351 Cleveland, 4 spd toploader & LSD 9" (original car)

From memory the ignition can be removed without the column coming out, theres a small hole underneath, with the key in and turned to the right spot the ignition with a papercip in the hole it will turn and come out like a "bayonet" fixing. You might be able to lube it up with only the ignition out as all the ignition does in a 70 is turn a slide switch that is bolted to the column. If the problem is with the slide switch then I think you will need to remove the whole column.

Hi Guys, I live in Australia & we're planning a trip in April 2009 to take my Daughter to Disneyland. I was kinda hoping there would be some car part swap meets I could get to and plan the trip around as well, can anyone let me know of any in California in April that are worthwhile attending? Cheers Darren

Can anyone tell me for sure what the color of the gauge panel on the dash is supposed to be on a std 70. My guess is either flat black or dark charcoal?