Sean D

as always thank you for the info. I will check the drive shaft angles. I think I read 6 to 8 degrees is best? I ussed 1/2" drop mounts to give more space with eh air gap intake. Hope not to have to cut hood!

Here you go! not quite done yet, as I want to push it all back another 1/4" to give headers more clearance at the stearing gear box, and idler arm. Right now there is only about 1/8" clearance with both. Pushing back will give a good 3/8". Since we used the ron morris drop mount the mounts are a bit more firm than stock, so might be okay with 1/8" but better address it now while I am at it. Note: to push back another 1/4" I need to modify my existing transmision crossmember as it is hitting the aod trans pan on passenger side and keeping it all from pushing back more. I think best option here is a good old hammer on the tubular section of the crossmember, as it is just barely hitting. Need to dent it in a tad, then repaint. Hate to spend another $180 bucks on a different type of crossmember. I also need to work out what I am going to do with the engine crossmember as it is hitting about 3/8" worth on the stock oil pan. I have read that you should not shim these crossmembers. Not sure if I want to spend the money on new crossmember built for drop mount or larger oil pans like canton, or just bite the bullet and go to rack and pinion. May run into the same clearance problems with all the racks out there like Randalls. However, I see that the TCP rack makes a big block version that is 1" lower than small block. This might work! Didn't want to spend that kind of money right now. Thoughts?

Thanks everyone for their opinions and help. I have never installed an engine before so I was asking for advice, and am thrilled with the ideas here! Let us be calm and not pick at each other, as we all have information the share. It is up to the person that asked the question to decipher it all and make their own decision(s). Engine goes in today, with the help of my father (68) and son (23)! So looking forward to it, not only getting it done, but the time spent with three generations! I will report back with results, time it took, and hopefully picture with it installed.

Thanks, as for header bolts, when FPA build them we used the 3" wide spacing as the Brodix heads are drilled for all three bolt patterns. I also have 1/4" drive bolts. When I dry fitted them this weekend, I could use ratchet on all bolts, with no issues.

Thanks Barnett! Do we use Aluminum anti-sieze on the bellhousing bolts? Also, is it okay if these bolts only go in 1/2 inch into the block? I think I read 1/2 inch is minimum. Couldn't find 2 1/8 and 2 1/4 I think will bottom out in block. So I bought 2" grade 8 flanged head.

I believe Barnett was referring to my valve covers before installing the engine. And this is another great suggestion as in addition to more space for engine install, it would make it easier getting to header bolts.

Outstanding suggestion Barnett!

Thanks Barnett, pre-fitting header bolts is a great suggestion. Hope the new aluminum heads are good to go, but will check bolt holes first by test fit while engine is out. So leave transmission in car, get headers into position laying against shock towers, then install engine. Question: why not go ahead and bolt up headers? BTW - here is my engine and engine bay (nicely painted) ready to go in.

Hi All, I am asking for opinions on your preferred method to installing engines in our 69s. I have new 408w and FPA long tube headers. My AOD trans is already installed and was running before I pulled the prior engine, so it is still installed and everything connected. Is it best to pull transmission and join to engine and go ahead and install headers, then drop in all three together at once? Or should leave trans in car, install headers, then drop in? Or install engine without headers and with trans in car? I read header install after engine is in is a PITA and may have to lift engine anyway. I do have a hoist leveler. Thanks, Sean

Excellent, thank you!

Vicfreg - where did you connect the ground on your starter? one of the bellhousing/starter bolts? Picture is worth 1000 words.

I will run a stock ground wire pictured below from passenger side rear block to firewall. Then the 4 AWG negative cable front passenger side front to negative terminal to battery. I will also probably run a 4AWG ground from starter to block and back to chassis frame as Vicfreg suggested. Guess more is better when it come to grounds. Sound good? Vicfreg - where did you connect the ground on your starter? one of the bellhousing/starter bolts?

No it does not but I have read that some people put a ground from alt to engine block for good measure/just in case.

Thank you very much for the suggestion on grounding the starter! Great idea. Assuming you are running a 3G Alternator, did you run any specific ground wire from the alternator to block and/or directly from alternator feed wire harness to alt?

Here is what I did: However, still narrowing down how much ground wires I need!

So you all think that the ground wire in the alt harness (ring connectors), between the alt and engine is large enough for 95Amp 3G alternator? Also is the 4 AWG ground wire between head to firewall, and 4 AWG from engine block to negative terminal on battery enough or should I add a ground from battery terminal to the chassis?

All, Can you guys confirm or pick holes into my grounding plan for my 408w build please? 69 Mach 1 and Battery is in the engine by in stock location. Running a PA Performance 95A 3G Alternator with their 1G-3G Conversion kit (fake voltage regulator and 3G wiring), and a 4 AWG 200 amp fused positive charge cable from alternator to the battery side of solenoid. Another 4 AWG positive from battery side of solenoid to the positive terminal on battery. Using the alternator wiring harness shown in picture, I will cut off the 1G connector and connect it to the 1G-3G Conversion kit, as per kit instructions. The large ring ground connector on the alt harness will connect to engine block bolt where I will also connect a 4 AWG ground cable that goes to the battery negative terminal. The small ring connector I can either cut off or connect it to the alternator housing. Wouldn't hurt to connect to alt housing right? Engine will be ground to chassis from the passenger side aluminum head bolt to the stock ground hole on the firewall with another 4 AWG ground cable. Is this all I need for proper flow? Or should I use larger ground wire such as 4 AWG from alt to engine block? Would it hurt or is it over kill to run another 4 AWG ground cable from side post negative battery terminal to chassis under battery tray?

Hi Barnett, Still waiting on the Keith Craft 408w with High Flow water pump, bored to 4.030” and compression will be 9.9:1. I have the Milodon high flow 180 thermostat, Griffin 24" aluminum radiator, contour fans, and dcc controller should arrive early next week. Can you give me your thoughts on coolant and additives? Live in north Alabama and will not drive car in cold, however it does get a little hot down here! Sean

Guess I will just try a set labeled for 70 with 351W, just hard to tell if they are for 20" or 24" radiators! Has anyone tried the silicone hoses? Are they worth the money?

Yes, it will have the correct accessory brackets, timing pointer, and harmonic balancer for use with the drivers side lower radiator hose. Absolutely agree, it is more than simply a water pump and radiator difference.

Is anyone running with a 69 351w with drivers side water pump configuration and driver side lower radiator outlet? If so can you suggestion a set of radiator hoses that fit my configuration as i don't think it is that uncommon? My new 408 stroker will be setup with driver side edelbrock aluminum water pump and just got my Griffin 24" wide direct fit radiator with driver side lower outlet. Have dual contour electric fans, but don't think that matters. Radiator: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-7-70039

Everyone really tries to help on this forum, and is quite appreciated by myself and probably the majority of people. Barnett in particular has given great advice, you just have to understand the written form to personalities! And use the information however it comes! Keep it up guys! And again thank you!

Barnett, will contact griffin. I believe these fans are OEM Ford parts, just wanted to know if you have seen or know the difference between the GG and GE ones. I also found this oem fan assembly, that I think is same as countor's but not sure as its part number is 95bb 8c607 GG instead of GE. I think the ford Mondeo is what this is for. But the listing shows it is compatible with contour. What do you think? https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OUT-OF-BOX-OEM-Ford-95BB-8C607-GG-Electric-Cooling-Fan/182683775478?hash=item2a88cd31f6:g:HLoAAOSw6B5ZdiC4&vxp=mtr

Hi Barnett, Reposting just in case you missed my final questions, as I think I am almost there. Again thank you alot for your advice, it is greatly appreciated! Craft got back with me and the block is 4.030" and compression will be 9.9:1. Do you think this Motorcraft contour replacement assembly is a decent alternative to a junkyard oem unit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Cooling-Fan-Motor-Motor-Fan-Assy-Engine-Cooling-MOTORCRAFT-RF-81-/112312147805?hash=item1a26535f5d I also found this oem fan assembly, that I think is same as countor's but not sure as its part number is 95bb 8c607 GG instead of GE. I think the ford Mondeo is what this is for. But the listing shows it is compatible with contour. What do you think? https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OUT-OF-BOX-OEM-Ford-95BB-8C607-GG-Electric-Cooling-Fan/182683775478?hash=item2a88cd31f6:g:HLoAAOSw6B5ZdiC4&vxp=mtr Also do you know if this Griffin radiator has tubes at 3/8" on center, as I cannot find details anywhere. I know this is what you recommend and according to other posts you have dealt with Griffin personally in the past. http://www.griffinrad.com/load_details3.php?PartID=87&year=1969&make=Ford&model=Mustang&key_id=7-70039