nickjames138

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Should I keep turning that nut counterclockwise until The inspection screw is not leaking? because everything is sealed tight after I tighten all the screws and turn the engine back on. But there is a considerable amount of gas that leaks out from the top screw when I unscrew it to turn that nut counterclockwise. ps. I bought a timing light. I'm So determined to get this fixed and really excited to have someone help! I really appreciate it!

Ok, So I checked the inspection screw after running and it's definitely leaking gas. So, I loosened the screw on top and turned the nut counterclockwise 1/2 turn. I repeated this step 4-5 times and there's still gas leaking out of the inspection screw when I loosen it. There's no gas leaking from either screw when they're tightened, but there's definitely a lot of gas leaking from both screws when I loosen them. It's a brand new Holley that I bought from Summit, so I can't see it having a bad gasket out of the box. However, I'm sure it could happen. Also, I have a fuel pump in the rear that was seizing up when the engine got hot. So, the mechanic left that pump on and screwed a better pump directly into the engine. I'll send some pictures from my phone.

Great. How do I check the gas level in the carb? I'll go get a timing light tomorrow.

I took it as you love this year car and you're concerned! But thanks for checking. So, after driving for a 5 mile or more drive when i go to turn it off it Diesels as I said. The last mechanic told me to put it in drive and shut it off and it won't diesel, so I did that today which resulted in the gas leak. It does not leak any other time. So, when I stop and put it in park and turn it off it will diesel and then not leak gas. In there lies my problem I'm guessing. I'm going to head to pep boys and buys a timing light tomorrow and a vacuum gauge. So, I'll start with the compression test. I only need to do those two plugs you mentioned, Barnett? should I do a dry and wet test? or just a dry test?

So, update....I just drove 5 mikes down the road, Stopped and let it sit for 4 mins. Came back and it's leaking gas from under the hood (there was a soccer ball sized leak under it. I'm also blowing through gas too fast, so....

Ok, So I've been super busy the past few days. Just reading all of these. I'm so appreciative of your help! I love that you want to help out and I will do everything in my power to follow your steps. I just don't want to be a burden because Some of the questions i'm a little dumbfounded over. My knowledge of engines is very small! I honestly don't really understand what to do to get the compression tests. I know the gas level is 3/4 estimate from what I've seen after unscrewing the inspection hole. I still have to do the compression test. Im going to start googling videos and hopefully get a good understanding by this weekend.

So, I'm watching videos on how to set timing and I don't have a timing marker. Also, this looks like a bigger job than I'm capable of right now being that I don't have any markers. I just don't know what shop to trust with an older car in Los Angeles. I've already struck out on a shop. I definitely don't mind paying a little extra to get solid work. I just don't want to keep double paying. That being said...Barnett if you think I can do this myself...then I'm always down for a challenge. I don't have a vacuum gauge. I can get a timing light. I can't figure out the pattern of it ignition. I definitely have to pump the gas 3x before starting it in the morning. Once it's warm I can turn it off and turn the key and it starts right back up. If I let it sit for an hour after running it I turn the key and it takes a 3-4 seconds to start and I usually have to push the accelerator down and it fires right off. I never hear any pinging. However, if it's in first there is a whistling if I accelerate in first and then let off as it's slowing down it whistles. I don't know the Spark Plug part number, but I can find it. I can also take a photo of the engine/hoses/etc.

I have a 351 with 302 heads. A bigger cam and dual magna flow exhaust. I just put on a 600cfm 4barrel holley and MSD ignition and distributor. My car is dieseling and it's hesitating off the start. I asked my mechanic to back the timing off and add to the air/fuel mixture. He told me that he doesn't want to take anything off the timing because it will make the car sluggish. He suggests it's the carburetor (that it's too small and I should've gotten a 750 double pumper). I'm getting frustrated. Thoughts?

Update....I think jwscarab may be right! The floats are definitely off because of the pulsing at high speeds and I've noticed it at a lower speed. I drove all week with no problems (even when I drove it on the freeway) and today it stalled for the first time again. The only two differences with today is that I had a full tank and it was hotter out today. Oh and today I drove a while with the AC on and then parked. When i turned it back on the turned on the AC it bogged down and stalled and wouldn't start back up for 15 minutes. Then, I was able to drive another 20 minutes and it stalled again as I was cruising downhill and not accelerating. It wouldn't start back up for 30-40 minutes this time. I just got a new Holley Carb and Distributor in the mail. I'm going to try to get them on this weekend and see if that fixes anything.

I thought this same thing, but I just stalled out and immediately opened the gas cap and didn't hear anything. I tried to start it will the gas cap open and it still wouldn't start. I think it's a heat issue...I had to wait 30 mins this time till it would start again. After 15 minutes it still wouldn't start. So, I didn't what any car lover would do and I waxed the car while I waited. Someone suggested that I should wrap foil around the fuel line where it's laying on the block to see if it fixes the issue. There is a bunch of foil wrapped around the line and it's still stalling. So either it's cooling down or something (gas?) is settling? I can't figure it out.

When I got the car back after being restored I only had a hesitation problem. After this one guy put Vintage Air in my car and supposedly bumped down the timing it's been bogging down and not starting back up only on hot days. I drove it last week on half a tank of gas for a few days long distance and it did great! No stalling or bogging, but today it's hotter and I'm having a lot of issues with a long drive

I have a 351W in mine with a bigger cam (not sure which because I didn't do it) I also have an edelbrock carb which isn't serving its purpose and I have a new Holley and distributor in the mail. I just got vintage air and the mechanic bumped the timing down. It's been running fun in colder weather, but two things....it's hot today and I just filled up the tank. Right after filling up it bogged down. I opened the tank and it started right up. Now I just drove it all day and it's hot...I turned on the AC and it bogged down and wouldn't start back up. I let it sit for 10 minutes and drove uphill for 20 mins then was coasting downhill (a lot of air) and it stalled while driving downhill. Now I'll have to sit for 10 more minutes and it will start right back up and drive another 20 mins. I'm not a pro with engines, but I've been tuning on this carb with no luck. Does anyone know a good mechanic around LA?

I'm not really good at tuning the fuel/air screws on the carb. I'll tell you my symptoms and maybe you can give me some insight. First off, the car REAKS of gasoline. Anytime it idles for 5 mins I smell like i worked in a gas station. I know old cars smell like that, but I get headaches from the strong gas odor that comes from my car. It starts and drives fine when it's been sitting over night. I drove it the other day a few miles around back streets being really gentle with accelerating and cruising. It ran fine and I made it home. However, if I hot rod it around town or drive it on the freeway it stalls after being driven hard. I'm guessing when it's at it's hottest it stalls. Also, It hesitates off the line. It has one gap in accelerating then takes off. I replaced the fuel filter, I know the fuel line sits right on the block, and it has an Edelbrock carburator. What would you suggest?

Yea I realized that the Scott drake is a piece of clear plastic that goes over top of the vent/ visible to the public...not the look I'm going for! I'm going to remove the cowl panel and try to plug up the holes.

So, I installed Vintage Air in my car which is amazing. However, I'm still getting a lot of hot air from my fresh air kick panel vents. So, I wanted to cut out the vent and install speakers in the vent pod which will fit perfectly. I just want to stop the fresh air from coming into the vent. I found the Scott Drake Cowl Cover on CJPonyParts. It has one review from a guy doing a similar project and he said the cowl cover basically didn't work that great. Does anyone have any suggestions or pics from their project? Thanks guys

True, but it doesn't stall on the freeway when I hit traffic. It only stalls after a LONG drive then exiting freeway and turning onto another street. I just drove it today 5 miles up the street and back (which is a long time to drive in Los Angeles' traffic) and it was fine. HOWEVER, I do remember that when I get on the gas and hot rod it a little bit that's when I start having issues. I drove very slow today and didn't give it a lot of gas off the line. Usually when I'm on the freeway I open it up here and there. When I'm at full throttle it starts to get choppy (almost like i'm pushing the accelerator in and out although I'm not). I was thinking about cutting a hole in the hood under the hood scoop to cool the engine as much as possible. Has anyone done this? I'm afraid of making a big change like that and ruining the hood.

I think you're right! I probably need to reroute the fuel line away from the engine? My engine is incredibly hot! Really fast

Thanks man. I'll try it later today and see what happens and let you know.

It's an edelbrock.

I believe the guy who had it before me put an electric ignition on it. It only does after I've driven it on the freeway or far on back streets then slow down at a stop. It always dies of i drive on the freeway and exit. A couple hundred feet after I exit it dies. Then I have to coast to the nearest safe spot and let it sit for a while before it will start back up.

My 1969 Mach fires right up in the morning and drives great....for a few miles and then starts stalling and will not start back up. I let it sit for 15 minutes and it starts right back up and drives great for a mile or less and starts stalling again. Thoughts? I have a 351w with I'm assuming a big cam because it sounds great. I know it wasn't producing enough vacuum to stop the new wildwood brakes with a master cylinder and power brake booster, so I switched to a manual wilwood break booster which helped the brakes considerably. It was also running fine (a little rich) before I put on vintage air AC. As the mechanic put AC on he bumped down the timing and carb. I tuned the carb back to running rich and it's still stalling. I've heard it could be the distributor (which I believe is new), could be the lock in torque converter not releasing after driving on the freeway, or it could be the electric starter heating up? Thoughts please!!??

I just dynamatted my fire wall and installed vintage air. Vintage air is amazing! Sure it takes up room and horse but I can't live without it. My only issue now is my kick panel vents blowing hot air from my engine. My 351w engine runs super hot