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smh00n

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Posts posted by smh00n

  2. Posted · Report reply

    I need a pair of the factory air conditioning vents/registers for the end of the dash on a 70 base model.

     

    Mine are rattly and loose so would like a nice tight pair or if there is a simple refurb process can someone enlighten me?

     

    I am in Sydney Australia so need postage to there please. Payment is probably easier by Paypal and happy to pay their expensive, rip off fee's my end.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    I smell gas from the tank. Has a new repro tank.

    I replaced the rubber hose which reduced it a bit but still have leakage. Have to check the hose clamps and filler neck to make sure they are OK.

     

    I thought maybe there was a filler panel behind the seat as it seems a bit weird that there is nothing to stop fumes coming in from the tank anyway. But I guess in 1970 that wasn't a big deal.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Come down under where we never had them and feel the pain. I spent about $10,000US in parts last year and only bought $1,000 in Australia as the prices were too dear.

     

    Being able to go to a wrecking yard and buy a 9 inch for less than $1,500US would be a nice feeling..... (even the cheap ones are ~800 bucks)

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks Super. I have done that as I bought the car built and thought it was factory boosted discs. It's a Grabber Mustang and has air and steer but I guess brakes were not as important back in the winter of 69 :(

     

    I have pulled the pedal out and it is 69 pedal and booster. Appears it has been converted locally to disc front using Falcon stubs, rotors and calipers. All of unknown age and model so the fun will continue. There's not a lot of difference luckily so that should not pose a problem.

     

    The booster appears to have a reaction(?) valve failure as you have nothing doing when you push the pedal then bang the brakes are on. Like a switch. Brake shop I trust are confident they know the issue based on my description, so I will pull the booster/cylinder and give it to them to look at. Once that is done I will have a baseline and whether I actually need a new booster.

  12. Posted · Report reply

    If you don't care about originality. Put the replacement booster from Tuff Stuff. It is the same booster that was used on the Boss429 so it will give better working space around it. I have one on my 69 conv and it works great

     

    Bob

    Hi Bob

     

    I need a new booster and the 9" one has been recommended. Tuff Stuff have a 2225NB booster listed - is this the one?

     

    The car is a 70 (but fitted with 69 booster/pedal so has been converted from drum) with a 302. Are there any fitment issues with this booster and do I need to buy any other parts to replace it?

  14. Posted · Report reply

    I would recommend a replacement box with integral power, such as Borgeson, Flaming River or the new CPP box.

     

    They have 14:1 steering ratio, which is a nice improvement over stock, and quickens the steering to more modern feel and standards/expectations  Be sure and get the faster ratio 14:1.

    Your center link, tie rods, and turning circle remain stock, unaltered.

    Fits in the same space as the old manual box

    Works with a stock power steering pump, brackets and pulleys, if you want to keep the stock look. (Borgeson will, not sure on CPP or FR)

    Less complex hose arrangement than stock PS.

    Fairly economical choice compared to R&P.

     

    I don't know much about electric power steering, so cant make comment or compare.

     

    Adding a roller idler arm will help smoothness

     

    There are some nice choices around.  I have R&P fitted to two cars.  One is great, one is just OK. Both new, high quality kits specific for the model.  Good, but not amazing for the money. 

    Can you confirm what box has 14:1? All I can find with the 3 companies you quote are 16:1.

     

    If they are all 16:1, whats the better buy? CPP as they are a brand new box??

  15. Posted · Report reply

    I have been thinking about buying one of these: http://mustangstofear.com/page.php?page=parts_catalog&yr=69-70&cat=interior&scat=carbon_fiber_interior_pieces∏=gauge_clusters_with_lights without the gauges. (I'll probably use Marshall Instruments gauges with them)

     

    Anyone have comments on them? Fit, finish, etc.

     

    MTF have not answered my email so I'll have to call them.

     

    Are there other alternatives, preferably in a plain black like original, not carbon or anything else. I like the 6 dial set out rather than the combined smaller gauges.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks for the input. The kit turned up today and looking at the cable instal kit it does say not to use the return spring. I hadn't noticed that before which is a pain as I just bought a new one for 30 bucks.

     

    I am getting the clutch pedal from MD as well so hopefully it all works. Brake pedals are another $150+ so will see if I really need one.

     

    Will definately be using a diaphragm clutch so weight will be 'reasonable' and have the roller bearing kit complete as well.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Hi all

     

    New Guy here, playing around with a Calypso Coral 1970 Sportsroof Grabber pack.

     

    I am converting from auto to manual trans, and just wanted to check if I had the clutch pedal stuff right. I've ordered a pedal and cable conversion kit from Modern Driveline, and as far as I can see all I need is the return srping, bracket for same and the rubber bumper. Is that all I need for the pedal and inerior stuff? I've already got the shaft rebuild kit from Scott Drake.

     

    Don't want to be nearly finished the conversion and find out I am missing critical parts.

     

    Thanks

    Stephen

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