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smh00n

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Everything posted by smh00n

  1. smh00n

    70 break and clutch assembly

    Yes. Long story cut short I think I managed to put the wrong thickness reaction pad on the booster pushrod so it was too short. This happened as I put the OEM master cylinder in along with a local master cylinder which used different pushrods. Changed it, budda bing great brakes. Not impressed with the shop - I told them to start from the beginning but they just made assumptions and wasted my money. Just another reason to do things yourself.
  2. smh00n

    Tuff Stuff Starter Motors

    Look at Mustangtech.com.au there is info there on using a Falcon Bosch 1.4Kw starter which are about $170 on ebay
  3. Fitted a small overflow tank to the radiator, so now can finally get the car registered. This coming Friday it should pass a roadworthy inspection all going well.
  4. smh00n

    70 break and clutch assembly

    So i'm going to hijack this thread :) I have a 70 fitted with a 69 booster and power brake pedal. The car is auto and was originally drum brake as far as I can tell. The brake pedal has no real feel - it travels a long way (relative to a modern) and seems to bottom out. The retardation is not real flash and seems to be only working at the very end of the travel. The brake shop I got to check it all reckoned the booster pedal point would be better off higher. The brake pedal is up on the top bolt. Is changing to a manual brake pedal hanging off the lower pivot hole going to work? I'll be changing this to a 5 speed over the next months using a Modern Driveline cable clutch kit so will that change things? I have spent months on this thing eradicating a rear lock up issue and now I have no pedal feel.
  5. smh00n

    Brake flaring made easy

    +1 for this tool. I bought a version of this same tool and it makes single and double flares consistently, every time. One of the better tools I‘ve bought
  6. smh00n

    Why are oil pans so darn expensive?

    We stopped putting Windsors in Falcons in 1969. So heaps of Cleveland gear, not so much Windsor.
  7. smh00n

    Those parts CD on ebay...

    I'm thinking to buy a parts CD for my 70 so I can try to identify things that are different. Some of them look like they are copies of copies of the one your dad had and not readable. I have the parts books already like that (the orange one). Any one recommend a version that is clear and easy to read and digital?
  8. smh00n

    Those parts CD on ebay...

    Thanks. I looked at one of those and it was a copy of a poor page. If yours is clear and crisp like an original piece of paper I'll take your recommendation and order one.
  9. smh00n

    Why are oil pans so darn expensive?

    Hah. look on ebay Australia and see what we get charged. 150 bucks is a deal compared to the money being asked for some importers. I bought a Boss 302 sump from Summit for decent money - slightly more capacity, baffled and a pick up included. But I guess you have a Cleveland....
  10. smh00n

    A Southeast road trip in 2019

    Me and my wife are planning a road trip from New Orleans across to Charlotte/Atlanta/? next fall. We like country rock music - Jason Aldean sorta stuff - and a bit of history along with vehicles. Are there any places we gotta visit? We'll have 3 weeks so a bit of time but then again not so much time. Whats the deal with owning cars there? To rent a car is probably about $3,000US so would it be cheaper to buy a clunker (that is reliable) and then leave it or sell it? Probably a rookie question but when you are paying 25c more for every dollar spent every little bit helps.
  11. smh00n

    A Southeast road trip in 2019

    Yeah maybe 30 years ago the foam mattress would appeal but these days the tired old bones complain.
  12. smh00n

    Just what every mechanic needs!

    I'll have a blonde in XL please. Now I'm wondering if my ass crack is worthy....
  13. smh00n

    It's Back! So WTF Happened?

    Another forum I haunt uses https://postimages.org/ seems to be the same as photobucket but without the hassle. No idea how/what/why/if as I don't do a lot of pictures
  14. This is driving me a bit nuts. I'll try to give you all the issues so you can advise. I have got the brakes working pretty well, but is still locking 1 rear then the other, under harder braking. Fronts lock fine when banged on but the rears will grab on light applications. The right side locks first then left. This is an improvement over both locking at once. To give you an idea of when they lock, you're driving down the road at 30mph and some goose stops in front of you, meaning you have to hit the brakes not hard-god-damn-I'm-dead but enough to pull up quick. This is when I have rear brakes lock. 90% of the time it's fine but do you want to be in front of me when I use that last 10%? I have a 70 which I think was a drum brake, non boosted car. When I bought it, it had been converted to front discs with a booster. What I have done and found so far: 69 pedal and booster have been fitted. I have checked measurements and definitely a 69. Unsure if the pedal box is a 70; will this cause issues? Assuming not, then the pedal and booster match as I replaced them. The booster was new from a US ebay site, it does look the same as what came off. It is a dual diaphragm one and is the 69 with the drop down eye on the booster to pedal rod. Repro disc master cylinder fitted. The booster and master have been setup by a local brake shop with correct push rod depth. Braking seems normal. Pedal may be a tad soft but. The front calipers and rotors are probably from an Aussie Falcon. Very similar to the OEM calipers. Front brakes are not the issue; I can modulate their performance fine. Distribution block and piping replaced with a later, although similar, distribution block Standard 302 with about 80 horsepower :( C4 auto robbing a further 20 horses Bled multiple times via the up/down pedal method. Pedal feels OK, firm, not too much movement before brakes engage New brake cables New rear std wheel cylinders New rear shoes, radius ground to match the drums New fitting kit for the rear shoes Rear brakes adjusted by locking drums then pulling back so there is a little drag. I can spin the wheel but there is drag there. So, am I missing a residual valve somewhere? My workshop manual does not show anything like that But I don't know why a virtually stock brake car has these issues. When I got the car the brakes were total junk and locked up at will. All the changes I have made have improved it but I am now chasing this last issue. I am a perfectionist if you were wondering... So, my questions are: 1. Do I need to get the bolt to stop the distribution valve moving when bleeding? I have not done this so far. 1a. Will bleeding them with a pressure bleeder make a difference? I'll probably have to do this anyway as I am solo worker. 2. Does it need a proportioning valve? I see Cobranda has the block and valve but only up to 69. What changed in 70 to remove it?
  15. smh00n

    70 rear brakes locking

    I wonder if my repro master cylinder has that. From memory it is a Dorman (I think the box was green). The fluid in the rear cylinders I found may be because this cylinder does not have one. Might have to try a pressure gauge to see what pressure they have to the rear. I suppose a 2Lb aftermarket valve would be correct?
  16. smh00n

    70 rear brakes locking

    Doc, yep short shoe to the front. I'll rip this thing to pieces this weekend and make sure it is all right. As for experience I've played with cars for years but this is first Mustang so feeling my way a little bit on the nuances.
  17. smh00n

    70 rear brakes locking

    Thanks. Looks like its on the bench, as I have the rear cylinders off. At least I can check the little bludger is working as it should anyway. Barnettt - my reply was a bit abrupt. I was lucky, the fluid was contained inside the boot so no contamination.
  18. smh00n

    70 rear brakes locking

    No fluid here Barney, not my first rodeo
  19. smh00n

    70 rear brakes locking

    Hold the phone! Made a call to a decent brake shop, lovely lady looks up her catalogue and says I'll have 2 x 3/4" cylinders here tomorrow. So I'll give them a go and see how we fare.
  20. smh00n

    70 rear brakes locking

    Thanks Stangs. I have found one part of the issue - my 6-month old wheel cylinders have rust through them. The old fluid must have had water in it. cars barely been driven whilst I sort this brake stuff out. I've ordered new ones and will flush the system completely to clean it. In Aus, the correct fix it to use smaller cylinders, to take pressure out of the system. I am using 13/16" or 20.64mm wheel cylinders. I think ideally 5/8" ones would fix it, or 3/4" at a pinch. Anyone know of a car that has cylinders in this size? To sleeve them is pretty dear here - about US$150 a pair. Otherwise that valve might do. That will make the 3rd set-up for the car :( Dumb question #2; how do you get the prop valve piston centred? I made up my own bolt but wondering how you ensure the valve is centred. Bit hard to see down there as well.
  21. smh00n

    70 rear brakes locking

    righto off the the shed I go
  22. smh00n

    70 rear brakes locking

    The second valve in the pictures is listed as 68-69 only. 70 have the style at the top. Are you saying the 68-69 with the angled valve piped in is what I need??
  23. smh00n

    70 rear brakes locking

    Thanks guys. My confusion is with the distribution block; I have bought one the same as the one in the top picture, but without the valve and piping. It takes the fluid from the 2 outlets on the master and splits it 2 ways to the front and one to the rears. It has the brake light switch in the body, so I assume this is also a proportioning valve. Barnett, the calipers are same diameter as the OEM Mustang ones and the fronts have never been an issue. With the booster, the feel is as good as you can expect so I don't think that's the issue. My problem is only in the rear. Maybe I need to try a doctors forum??? I didn't mention, the rear brakes are 10" x 1.75". I went to the smallest cylinders I could find (7/8"). Next step down is 5/8" but that's a $200 investment. I think I have the standard 13/16"? - 29/32"? in there now so could try the 7/8" again. I'll check today. Barnett the rears lock from dead cold and I've not got them hot. Another test I did was to put on a local master cylinder (1" bore, inbuilt proportioning valve) with an adjustable valve on but that did very little to change the rear. (I have tried a lot of things to fix this). Doug, is the prop valve you mention the same as pictured? I have the one without the valve and piping. I have read that you need to lock the shuttle piston centred when bleeding the brakes. The Ford manual does not mention that so do I need to lock the shuttle piston off when bleeding? Today I will back off the brakes so no drag, check the cylinder sizing, pressure bleed the brakes and try it out. Watch this space.
  24. smh00n

    Good quality grill moldings?

    I need the clips that hold the finishing panel under the main grill to the lower front panel. Is the centre one the right one? And what part number?
  25. I want to update my stock gauges with new ones, like the NVU or Classic Instruments offerings. Any recommendations on what are better ones? I like the 4 dial setups better than the 6 dials.
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