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smh00n

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Everything posted by smh00n

  1. Well that would have to do your head in. Lucky you had both pumps.
  2. I think you are right as I saw that in a few posts. I ended up buying a new one from ebay - $28 bucks + shipping. Has the the right specs so will see what it is when it gets here.
  3. You piqued my interest so I went lookin': https://terlinguaracingteam.com/pages/history And there is a town called Terlingua - right down on the border of Texas and Mexico. Like 6 degree's of separation to a 70 Mustang :)
  4. I have a Saginaw pump supplied with the Borgeson power steer kit, but the pulley groove size is 3/8"and not 1/2" as it should be. To save me hours on the interwebs, has anyone got a lead on what pulley will fit the press on shaft and mate with the 1/2" wide belt? I don't really want to change all the pulleys as I spent hours and dollars getting them correct the first time.
  5. As far as I can tell, both Cleveland and Windsor pulleys are the same after 1970, in reference to the depth/offset. I have a D1AE-8509-AA water pump pulley on my 302, which decodes as a 72 302 Maverick with P/S but no A/C. The pulley diameter is 5 15/16" OD. Your D1AE-8509-BA is for a 72 Maverick with a 302 again with P/S but no A/C. The diameter is 6 61/64" I'm sure I have the same D0OE-6312-BA crank pulley, and it matches the water pump pulley. The rearmost groove is for a 1/2" belt and should match both the p/s and water pump pulley. My research indicates the p/s goes over the w/p but the alternator runs direct off the crank. You need the matching D0OE-xxxx alternator bracket set to match the LH pump offset on the 1970-on cars.
  6. Thanks, glad someone is getting some benefit. The T5 was a consideration with the GForce gearset, but the TKO was cheap, even when I bought it, so that's how it ended up. Now it is in and done, I'm happy with the decision. I lived in Queensland for a year or so. But them Queenslanders are weird, they don't like daylight savings and they can't spell beer, they call it XXXX. At least I have my Don't mess with Texas fridge magnet from my trip to Dallas in 2020.
  7. Part 13 - New heart and lung transplant done We have Australia day here Thursday and I am simply following everybody else and taking Friday off, so a 4 day weekend. Time to stop the oily greasy jobs and start doing clean stuff. Wednesday afternoon I decided I would drop the engine back in. As it came out so easily with plenty of clearance I decided to put the motor on where it has been sitting and then put in the gearbox from underneath. First, I wanted to make sure the box would mate to the engine without struggle as I am one man and no assistance. Trial fit on the ground, and the box mated up nicely. Having dealt with cars that have bellhousings attached from the inside before, external bolts are most appreciated. I put on new engine mounts, which were needed as the ones that came out of it were cracked and made in India. At least the new ones are made in the USA. Onto the engine crane, lifted it up and down it went. I probably broke a few rules whacking it in from the side, but to get it to a garage where I can put it in from the front is a hard push up a slope and I'm too old for that shit now. It dropped in easy, sat on the mounts and it was done in an hour all done. I left it overnight to finish the next day. The next day, in went the gearbox. Was a bit of a fight doing it alone, I ended up picking up the rear of the box with a ratchet strap through the gear lever hole and then using a floor jack to ease it in. It went in easy and mated up to the bellhousing. I saw a video on you tube where doofus pulled the box in with the mount bolts and it destroyed the front mounts after it gave up having too much tension on the box. But this slipped in smooth. Again, the MDL crossmember just fitted nicely. No tension on the bolts, the mount is centered and all is right with the world. The great news is there is nowhere it is hitting on the tunnel, and it has good clearance all around. It's not huge clearance where you can put a hand around but nothing is hitting/rubbing/causing grief. The gearlever is slightly offset to the passenger side and is a bit close to the floor edges but that looks like the only concern. As far as I know, this box is straight out of Tremec with no modifications. It is the Ford-specific box. I read somewhere that MDL machine the top plate tower down for clearance but this as far as I know has not been touched. Next, I started on some little chores. I had left the steering all loose whilst I waited for the Open Tracker roller bearing idler arm, which turned up during the past week. I bolted the steering box down using the original washers from the original one, then went to change the idler arm. The difference I can see in the manual to P/S idler arms is the length of the top bush to the drag link - manual steer cars have about a 1/4" shorter pin through the bush and that's it. But no one sells the bushes so I paid AUD$200 for a new idler. Supposedly it will last a long time. First problem - for reasons I don't comprehend, the lower mount bolt fouls the pin for the actual moving arm. I'm like what the heck? Surely this is known, and why is there not some sort of fix or even advice to buyers? When I say I don't comprehend, I do comprehend the clearance but I don't know why it is sold like this. They could offer a half nut or something along with it. I found the nut would just fit in when placed against the bracket but it would have a slight misalignment. But not happy with that, I got the die grinder and trimmed the pin/stud back a little bit. It's hard to see in the pic as it is just a poofteenth needed. That done, next chore was the headers. These are JBA shorties, with ceramic coating. I bought these years ago as I had heard problems with the full length ones and Borgeson steering box. The passenger side fitted in easy as expected. I did find the ceramic coating had filled the bolt holes a tad, and caused a misalignment, so I ran a drill through them to open them up. Problem solved, LH side bolted up. The driver side was not as bad as I thought. The did touch the steering box on #3 but only just. So I beat on them with a Universal Clearance Tool (aka hammer) They eventually needed a little bit more beating on the downside (rh side of the photo) as there was like 0.010" clearance in this photo. But they are in, not touching and ready for pipes. There is plenty of clearance around the rails and if you kept the Ford steering box I think they would go in without issue. If you want to use shorties then these would be a good choice. The only downside is they are a 1 5/8" primary which the experts say is too small for a 347. One issue I found was the brake pipes from the master cylinder made it hard to get the bolts in but that's an issue only us Aussies will face. The MDL clutch cable is plenty long enough to clear without touching. I have ordered a heat sleeve to put over the full length anyway as a precaution. I also test fitted the power steering pump supplied with the Borgeson kit. The pressure line looks like it will be long enough to clear the headers but I'll have to confirm. I will be using an aftermarket cooler - which I think would have to be a mandatory thing with the box, as it is so close to the headers it's going to get hot - and it will need new hose to fit, so I might tweak the return pipe out of the box at the same time. They are too close to each other for my liking. I will also put heat sleeve over hoses as well. I did crush the fuel lines in the trans tunnel when putting in the box, so I will need to replace them. Probably a good thing - I was always dubious that having pressurised fuel in the tail shaft tunnel might make for exciting times if a uni let go and we had sparks and fuel introduced to each other. I'll run it along the outer sills this time, like I should have done the first time. Today's random rebuild shot: The result of a 3 bulb conversion sold by Drake (?) I put in. After naff all use it started to melt the lens. D'Oh
  8. Spoke to the vendor this morning and he tells me the one he has is 4.5" which is what I think I need. See how I go when it gets here.
  9. Folks Can someone do a measurement for me? I have the triangular bracket for the steering column to cowl mount but it is not wide enough in the bolt hole spacing. I need one at 4.5" bolt centres. The one I have is about 4.1" bolt centres and I think it is a '69. I can buy a new repro set here but they list them for 69 and 70, where the parts books have a different part number for both. It is the pressed bracket on the left in this picture.
  10. Part 12 - out with the old drivetrain and some odd jobs So the day came - I was ready to pull the motor and box. I'd been a bit hesitant as it meant that I had to do something but also that things were happening. So, out came the engine crane. I'm sure we all agree older cars are so much easier to work on. In fact, I was thinking I must have missed something as all I undid was power steer hoses, starter cable, earth cable, speedo cable, fuel lines and the bolts to the 3 mounts. The exhaust was easy, it was only just hanging on finger tight. I'm surprised nothing fell off in the 2 years I'd been driving it regular. With plenty of room the motor and box slipped out easy and even though I was by myself no Mustang parts were harmed. Now for the Big Surprise of the 'rebuild'; the engine has a hole in the block and someone has filled it with maybe JB Weld. W. T. F. I had spotted the welsh plug fix previously but the hole in the block was a pain. I had planned on selling the lump as it is a 1974 block but now it's parts only. And who wants a dead 302 that really is dead? At least the C4 looked OK. It did leak through the pan and selector shaft seal but overall it's reasonably clean. Moving right along I gave the engine bay a good degrease and pressure wash. With the belt misalignment, there was rubber all over it along with a healthy dose of trans and engine oil, along with power steer oil. The bare engine bay didn't really throw up surprises, the passenger side shock tower has had the reinforcement plates welded and maybe replaced, but it looks straight and not rusty. I have been lucky with this car in terms of rust which I am grateful for. Although, I am wondering why under the shock tower strut plates there are traces of yellow paint. Not seen that elsewhere. About to go back to it's garage space for disassembly. Looking at this picture I probably will lower the rear springs to around the top of the tyres. I'll see how it looks when back together as the front I am happy with. In between the jobs listed above, I tidied up the birds nest of wires on the passenger side. These are for the Sniper and are excess wires I don't use. When I fitted all this stuff it was basically testing to make sure it all worked, with the intention to make it look nice later. I've now bundled it all in Summit black wire wrap so it is not as visible. I also redid the brake lines. I made these up to suit the brake master cylinder from a local Falcon. The only real issue is the pipes face the engine so you need to be creative with the routing. When I made them first time, the engine was still in so my nice neat bends got wrecked trying to fit it in. I also added a join to the rear brakes, in case I change the master cylinder in the future it is easier to make up a short line. I did contemplate painting it, but honestly couldn't be bothered with all the other stuff doing. It is OK for a daily driver which this will basically be one done (if not daily at least each weekend day). With time to spare, I decided to test fit the TKO600 to see what the issues may be. It is a big unit, but went up into the tunnel without fuss, on a floor jack. I was really impressed with the MDL transmission mount. It just fitted. No catching, pushing, joggling to fit. The adjustability of both the mount holes in the crossmember and the rubber mount will give me plenty of adjustment. The only issue I thought maybe a concern was the seam in the floor - When I jacked the transmission into the tunnel so it lifted the car it was in the way. So I just hit it with a 4lb attitude adjuster to flatten it. The pipes here are the fuel lines for the sniper. They are close to the box but not enough to worry me at present. I have lifted them higher into the tunnel so they clear. The shifter is positioned directly centre of the auto shifter hole, so I am hoping the box is in the right position. More of a 'few more jobs ticked off shot'; wiring fixed, Borgeson box in, booster and column out, brake lines not yet done. This is another poor iPhone-camera-lens-is-covered-in-oil shot (I am a world champion in doing these) but this shows the finished brake pipes. I made sure this time I got tube nuts with imperial hex on them. Someone sells them for a 3/16" tube but to fit a 10mm spanner. When Old Mate comes along with his 3/8" spanner it doesn't end well. Todays random rebuild shot: Brake calipers secured with some fencing wire and the brake hose on upside down and on the wrong side. This is a Falcon hose that was chucked on to make the brakes work. The struggle is real :(
  11. Part 12 - Engine is finished So, my decision to change cams after the engine was basically complete took up a lot of time and money. Lunati 282HR cam (P/N # 20350712) arrived 3 weeks earlier than I was told, so I was able to get into that. Pulling the front was easy but the timing case gasket was sacrificed. Can you believe it took 2 weeks to ship one 500 miles? I hate couriers sometimes. The Trickflow timing set I installed had 2 new countersunk screws for the cam plate, to give clearance for the bronze thrust washer Neat system, all you need to do is countersink the hole. Well, the guy who screwed to motor together this first time put too much lock tight on the screws, and I rounded the hex head off trying to remove it. Ok, no issue I'll buy another one. Pull the old cam, start to prep the new cam and what do I see? Imperfections in the lobes! Dammit I don't know what they were, but they weren't welcome. This was a Saturday so I couldn't do anything. I was slightly paniced as the supplier only got 3 cams and they said 2 were pre-sold (including me). So I spent the weekend freaking. Luckily, Monday I called them, they still had 2, physically checked one and sent out a new one. They even paid for the freight back for the dud one. Precision International in Melbourne are top people. So, now to buy a new screw for the cam plate. Trick flow don't sell them as an item, so I goes to a bolt shop. cuppla bucks later I had 2 new screws, but the heads about about 1/16" bigger.. Off to the tool shop, get a larger countersink tool and cut the plate again. It's not right, as it looks like the taper on the new screws is different too, but it doesn't foul the thrust washer so that's good. In with the new cam, time it up, put it all back together. But, new cam with higher lift means new pushrods. So they are on order. I had to remove the sump to put the front cover on, so I took some pictures of the innards. The phone had oil all over it so they aren't great, but you seen one crank and rods you seen 'em all... Windage tray and Boss 302 oil pickup for the Boss sump Valley and lifters whilst setting timing. I bought 2 hydraulic lifters and made the solid so I could check the pushrod length, which is why the spider is missing. SRS forged pistons, +0.030", -5cc domes. Massive valve reliefs, there is still about 3 feet in engine measurement before the valves come even close to the piston. Bit of alloy head porn. These are Dart Pro 1 heads, 195cc inlets with a 2.02"/1.60" valve. I also paid extra for a mild clean up on them when they checked the springs. No idea if it will help but the ports have been opened up nicely. Then, today I fitted the flywheel and checked the bellhousing run out. I'm not sure if I was lucky or not but the numbers cam in at -0.090" and +0.011", which I calculate to be 0.002" and within tolerance max of 0.005" The clutch was modified by a local shop, it is a 10.5" plate and an Exedy cover, he was seeking a good clamp with a light-ish pedal. Time will tell. Finally, after months of work I have a complete engine ready to stick back in.
  12. Part 11 - Steering column finish and re-install (last time hopefully) As I needed the pedal box in before chucking in the column, I had left it. With the pedal box in, bolted up and hopefully not coming back out time to put the column in. I had sandblasted the lower bracket, painted it and bought a new lower seal so was good to go. This was the first time I had fitted the column complete with the lower bracket and dash brackets. I'd put it in and out testing it, but basically a bare column. So the first surprise was that the Borgeson box is about 1/2" higher than the Ford box. WTF can they not tell you this???? After struggling with the column fitting, I pulled the lower bracket and seal and fitted them to the firewall. Yep, mis-alignment city. Luckily, the lower bracket has massive bolt holes so there is a bit of adjustment there. Knowing this, I fitted the coupling to the box input shaft and bolted it up. Then I pushed the column up to the top bolts and worked the lower mount/seal to fit. The collapsible steering shaft needed about 2" downward movement to line up, but without the wheel on it all looks OK. One thing I will have to do is to run some duct tape around the locking collar to secure it. I had thought to use a trim screw nylon bush to accept a screw, but didn't have one and gave up looking. When refitting the brackets to the dash, I found a few 1970-specific things. First, the pedal box on a '70 goes up inside the dash and sits down on it. After seeing a few '69 posts I thought I had fitted it wrong, so I pulled the column and pedal box, tried to put it up underneath the dash to find 1970 don't have that. So, skin and blood later I had it all fitted back as it was. Next, the triangular bracket that goes from the front studs to the firewall is not the same for a '69 and '70. From what I can see, the '69 has a 105mm bolt spacing and the '70 has a 115mm bolt spacing. They look very similar, but the '69 legs are a little bit offset. Luckily, I found a supplier in Queensland who has repro sets of all 3 brackets for 70 bucks. They have been closed for Christmas up till tomorrow, so I will hopefully have the new bracket in a week, and I can finish the column. Whilst I was at the local Mustang shop, I bit the bullet and bought a dashes direct dash pad as well. The one on the car is a fiberglass back thing and just does not fit.. Whilst under the car, I noticed the engine crossmember tube looked very ordinary. I always wondered why a sleeve had been welded into the centre. Well, maybe this thing had been a drag car with some random sump set up. I present for you, one very modified, wrong engine crossmember that wasn't even bolted up tight $180 later I have a new one.
  13. Part 10 - pedals and cable clutch conversion I had bought a Modern Driveline TKO kit, which was the bellhousing, crossmember, manual clutch pedal and the cable conversion setup. I also bought a Scott Drake roller bearing kit. Pulling it all out was simples, and stripping the box was easy. As I had discovered when rebuilding the brake booster, this car has been fitted with a '69 auto brake pedal and booster. What I didn't know was it has been converted stick shift to auto by welding more pad on. Excellent, that saves me buying a stick shift pedal and a few minutes with a hacksaw and a grinder had it fixed. Pedal box before: And after sandblasting The roller clutch kit is pretty simple; cut out the old pot metal bushes as seen above and fit the new bearings. These have a wave washer on the inside, a large washer on the outside and a circlip to hold it all together. The first test fit showed that the supplied washers would not fit one side: And I had to grind a flat to clear the edge of the box. The instructions did state you may want to weld the washers. I chose to do so, as the box had a bit of warping, but it also allowed the washers to slide back and forwards. The box has an elongated hole, plus I had too much clearance to fit the washers. It's a 2 man job to get the circlips seated, so once I had filed and smoothed as best I could, I welded the washers on. I only used 3 tacks, so the next poor sucker who plays with it doesn't have a major exercise to remove them. Using a bit of thought, I put the bolt across to keep them square, and the bolt rolls smoothly. Next issue was to flatten the firewall mounting tabs. Mustang Steve actually advises to check this, as people did what I had done and screw the mounting nuts down till they stopped. Seems the correct way is to just nip them up and leave them. Not flat and flat. Some satin black enamel paint and I had a newly rebuilt stick shift pedal box ready to install. The wrinkling in the paint id the primer or top coat reacting to each other. I used enamel for both but one doesn't like the other. Whatever, I'll call it a factory finish to the experts to mess with the Next chore after that was to actually install the clutch conversion. This is a fairly simple thing from MDL; a bracket that sits behind the booster and has a angled piece that guides the cable into the fire wall. On the pedal is a new, heavy duty bracket that bolts on and sits on top of the pedal itself, with a clevis pin that accepts the end of the cable. Simple, but as per my other posts you do need to read the instructions. The pedal that MDL supply is not exclusive to this kit and still needs to have the OEM pedal spring 'notch' cut out. This little issue actually took a week to figure out, as I emailed MDL asking for help. It wasn't until I called and spoke with them, that they said 'you have not cut the pedal'. I have suggested that they mention in their instructions that even their own pedal needs to be cut, as I assumed wrongly the pedal supplied with the kit would be modified. So, cut the pedal, bolt on the bracket, reinstall the pedal and budda bing, plenty of clearance for the pedal. Next, punch a guide hole in the firewall, cut a 9/16" hole and feed the cable through. Along with the pedal box I also reinstalled the side bracket to the dash, that the previous 'rebuild' had hung off the RH side with no connection to the dash.
  14. Exactly what I thought. Saw the instructions, noted it needed cutting but thought well I got their kit I just gotta bolt it together. Thing is they sell the pedal as an upgrade to factory as it has a slotted bolt instead of the stud welded to the pedal. It's not just sold as a cable kit conversion. I see their point on both accounts, but they could chop some up and supply them with the cable kit. On a positive side, they are refreshing the instructions this year and have agreed with my suggestion to make it more obvious that all pedals need to be cut, regardless of supplier.
  15. The issue was even though I had bought an MDL pedal, they don't modify them. I assumed it was good to go. It needed cutting at the yellow line in the first picture. And now the whole interwebs knows I'm a twit :) Good news is it is in and functions well.
  16. Part 9 - Steering column and steering This started bad - as I had one of the original boxes that had been cut and a new mount welded on, in my State here I had to have an engineer certify it was OK, which involved a Magnetic Particle Test - basically spray it with a liquid then dust it with a dry powder, put it under UV light and have a look. Well, bad news. I had a nice solid crack coming out of the weld. See that nice left hook coming out of the weld? FAIL! Expecting the worst, since it was a good 6+ years since I had bought it, I contacted Pro Steer Downunder and explained my issue. Not only would they warrant it, they would send me a brand new casting unit that day and I could send the dud one back. To say I was a bit speechless was an understatement. Businesses like this that focus on customer service will always get repeat business, and I am happy to thoroughly recommend them to all the Brothers and Sisters in Australia that need steering stuff. With my new box delivered the next day I started. The Borgeson kit stated that the column needed to be trimmed to fit. Not a lot of hard intel out there so I did a bit of a remove and test thing. Fitting the Borgeson box was good - it fitted without hooking up on the rail, and seemed to be straight. The radius at the chassis rail may be a bit tight but it didn't look off centre. The column looked like it needed about 1 1/2" off the bottom to clear, as the new box extended into the column reach more than the Ford one. On a '70 this poses issues, as they have the column lock system that has a tube running up the inside of the column, with a big old tab at the bottom for the actual lock rod to/from the transmission. This is the first fit, with the Borgeson rag joint adaptor fitted and the column still complete. There is no tolerance for movement there. Also note in this picture the sorry bolts Borgeson supply with the rag joint - metric, too long and a single washer. I also saw on Mustang Steves website, and Alsaenfe on here confirmed it, that you could put a bearing at the base of the column. After pulling the column down to pieces, The fix seemed simples. Being a '70 with a collapsible steering column the actual steering shaft could be shortened without issue. There is about 2 feet of travel so lots of room. The inner tube similarly collapses; it has nylon 'things' that hold it to length, but will shatter in an impact and the tube would collapse. In this shot I have already busted this one seeing how it all worked. So, if you wanted for some reason to retain the column/transmission lock system with a Borgeson or a rack and pinion conversion in a '70, it can be down easily. I then looked at the support for the lower column. From what I saw, there is a light bushing for the steering shaft which is probably more anti-rattle than support and the outer lock tube has a nylon bush which holds it firmly. If I were to retain the lock tube (which I didn't as it was already gone and I was putting in a TKO), I made the decision the tube could be sacrificed. So, to support the steering shaft in the lower tube. I ripped off previous designs and just bought a roller bearing with a 1.000" ID. It had a 52mm OD which was an issue as the outer tube is about 54mm (apologies for the metric sizing). Easy-peasy, I have an excellent machinist up the road. The bearing is here for reference if you want to do this. The sleeve has a lip on the lower side to retain the bearing and an external lip to retain it at the bottom of the tube. The actual steering shaft is 1" OD, but where the tube is pressed for the sliding join, it has spread out about 0.003". Lucky my man is on the case and he shaved the shaft for me. To keep the whole shebang from moving around, I filed a flat onto the sleeve and put a grub screw into it with a lock nut. (The notch is my alignment mark. I took 2" off the end of the column to get it to fit, and then cut the inner tube so it sat above the bearing. This sits just above the new bearing, and is supported by the original large nylon outer bush so no rattles. At the top, the 'cup' that does the actual locking of the ignition barrel is currently sitting free but if it becomes an issue I will put a screw in there to lock it to the very top collar. Then, it was just a matter of cleaning the external tube, painting it satin black to match and reassembling with lube for the moving parts. I also sand blasted the lower bracket to the firewall and painted it, putting a new seal on and stuffing it back in. I also replaced the top bearing. The column now rotates freely without lumps or noises and should last me a good few years. One benefit of this is as it is a sealed bearing no fumes should go past it, so no don't need the foam pieces that are supposed to do that. Mine were in very good condition for something costing about a 1/4 of a cent 50 years ago. The last part of the puzzle was to fit up the new manual steer pitman arm - I didn't realise that only original manual steer cars have a ball joint on the pitman arm, and I thought I was being smart by buying a manual steer drag link instead of the adaptor used on original power steer cars. I think the manual setup looks better and cleaner anyway. All I need know is for the new roller idler from Open Tracker to arrive and the steering hard ware under the car is done. Random 'rebuild' shot; I pulled the exhaust system off and these were the bolts holding the tailpipes on by the tank.
  17. The heads are Dart Pro 1 alloy. I had a budget and these fitted it. They have a 58cc chamber, 2.02/1.60 valves and a decent port. I also spent about $800 having them cleaned up. The compression ratio comes out about 10.5:1. They are probably not as good as TF as they were bought 7 years ago but they seem to do a good job for the money. The brains trust on the intake is interesting (to me). I bought an Edelbrock Torker manifold thinking it would be good for top end, but the current word is the RPM airgap is out performing most intakes to my 6,500 rpm limit (self imposed for longevity). So I bought one of them. I can buy a Victor-style single plane for about $400 and on paper it seems good - plenty of power to about 7,500, single plane, big open hole which the Sniper seems to prefer and for me, a rear water cross over (Having overheating issues I'm a bit sensitive in that area). Maybe I might run the air gap and then put the Torker on for comparison. With the cam I am using now it might loose some torque and become a bit of a pig. Especially as the flywheel I have is similar to a NYC pizza in thickness.
  18. Part 9 - a 347 build Having decided to not re-fit the radiator I started on the engine. A family death also spurred me on, not thinking about it and doing it. First thing was to rectify the balancer issue. Luckily, I made contact some years back with a historic Mini racer, who happens to build some of the fastest engines in the category. He put me on to a machinist who worked from home, and was part of the early performance industry here. He now balances engines mainly for racing and is old school trained. All he wanted was the crank, a rod and piston and the old and new balancer. 80 bucks and 3 hours later I had a matched 4 bolt balancer for my engine. Phew. The engine build is pretty typical - clean it all, check it all, torque it all and keep it clean. Just to prove it is a 347 :) I put a windage tray into it, a crank scraper along with a Boss 302 sump (all it is is small baffle, nothing fantastic) and the obligatory dual row timing chain. This is trial fitting the Canton crank scraper. Only needed a couple of clearance trims and it was good to go. The machine shop did the cut-outs for the rods. Probably nicer than me doing it with a hand-held die grinder. The different colours are assembly grease and ARP bolt grease. I went with main studs because I could. Had I thought it through I should have put in a stud girdle too, but that might encourage me to spin it too fast and make it go bang. I also took the time to tap all the oil gallery holes front and rear, and put in pipe plugs. Some are zinc and some are black, not sure of the reason. The dual row timing set needed counter sunk cap screws for clearance of the thrust washer. Not a difficult job, I bought a HSS counter sink bit, lined it up in my drill press and cut away. The heads need to be just below the surface, so I checked it a couple of times. Checking the Scott Drake B302 sump and pickup set found a present; Swarf left in the pick up tube. Check, clean and dry everything! I port matched the headers to the exhaust and also the inlet manifold. I'm not chasing power on this, and won't dyno it. The reason I went a 347 is when I went on my shopping spree just after I bought it, a local speed shop had a warehouse sale and I think I paid about 300 for the rods and 400 for the crank, so it was a no brainer to go big. Thinking is a bad thing to do, and I got to thinking about the cam I had bought. I was at some lights one day and a old guy pulled up in a chev truck. The cam in it was pretty impressive, with a heavy lope and thump thump thump rhythm. Being a believer in the too loud, too old I decided to go the next size cam up from Lunati, which is a 20350712. This bad boy packs 231/239 @ 0.050", 571/587 on a 110 LSA. The car spec is a TKO600 with a 3.5 gear, so I am hoping this does not make it too hard to drive sedately if needed. In some down time, I sand blasted a set of rocker covers I bought used. Bit of before and after. I saved the original service info on the sticker I painted them and the engine competition Ford blue. Might not be correct but I like it. Well, the new cam arrived yesterday, and I went to install it - it has marks over a few lobes, so it has to go back and get replaced. I waited a month for it so this is a bit annoying. Luckily, the place I bought it from (Precision International for the local readers) not only will swap it, they will pay the return freight for the dud one. Winning.
  19. Part 8 - Engine machining and prep Prior to the Cooling Incident, I had started the engine build. I had bought a 302 roller long block from a guy, who assured me it was standard. Well, pull the heads off 6 months later and its 0.030". And has a lip. Dammit. Roller blocks are not common here, Falcons were not fitted with Windsor's since 1969 when Ford changed over the the Cleveland, which ran until they stopped making V8 Falcons in 1983(?). They only started being fitted to Falcons in 1993 and were the injected version. As such, they command a lot of money ( I really need to do a road trip buying every 351 roller in the US and ship them here) and I ended up paying $400 for a bare, standard block that had been in a corner for years, supposedly from the US which the 'expert' selling it claimed were a better casting than the Australian-supplied ones. So, off to the machine shop with my now 5-year old brand new bits. Let the fun begin. My engine combo consisted of Scat cast crank, Scat H Beam steel rods, SRS forged 0.030" slugs with -5cc domes, Dart Pro 1 heads with 58cc chambers, 2.02/1.60 valves, Lunati cam 20350711 (221/229 @ .050, .549/.565 lift on a 112 LSA), steel flywheel, ARP studs for mains and heads, HV oil pump and a windage tray. I also added a RPM airgap manifold and JBA shorty headers. Originally it was just drill the holes, balance, clearance and check the valve springs. But even though I wasn't chasing power on it, I elected to go with a mild port and polish on the heads. Unknown to me, I had bought rods with a Chev (uuurgh) main journal, so the crank needed to be ground to suit which was cheaper than new rods. And when I went to pick it up and pay for it, the man claimed they had used 3 slugs of Mallory and it would be another few hundred, thanks. Well, fast forward a bit and the crank has not got any Mallory in it. No more work from me for that shop. They seem to have done a good job, the bearing clearances are nice, the ports are a bit nicer and they didn't loose anything and gave me my wrong bearings back. And that brings me to today.
  20. Part 7 - This is not cool Now, with a driving, stopping, steering, reliable car I started to use it more. But then summer came along and we had issues. The thing started to boil in traffic, so I bought 2 fans off ebay and dropped them in. Some relays, decent power from the battery and I thought I had it done. But no, the car that keeps giving had more. Still boiled. So, I bought a cheap alloy radiator off ebay. For 180 bucks I thought if it went all bad it wasn't a big deal These are BIG, as big as a big block car and 4 core. Not very large tubes but what do you want for 180 bucks? They are supplied with 'pusher' fans. So, fans, big radiator and summer. All good? Nup, still boiled. So, blame the fans. Buy new 2,000 CFM fans from a reputable shop and stick them on. They tell me pushers are no good and you need pullers. Take my $350 then and send them up. We got along alright for a while, then it blew a head gasket. Worse, it started spitting the fan belt off. The result of many hours of testing, thinking, testing, checking identified that the lower radiator was collapsing, as a result of so much crud, scale and junk in the block that it had filled the radiator with junk. They are sneaky these things, they stay fat and puffy at idle but squash in with some revs - and I didn't pick it up till later. After looking at what the issues were, I also found out that the engine had early ('69 and earlier) pulleys, alternator and power steering brackets, with a 1970-on drivers side water pump. Now, if you are not aware, the LH outlet pumps are longer than the early cars and they are not compatible. It still shits me to this day to see pulleys and brackets advertised by the Mustang suppliers as '1964-1973' fitment. I should have picked this up when I replaced the alternator earlier on, but I think at the time I just decided as I was replacing the engine anyway, I'd fix all the issues that were present. With some help from a man in Melbourne, I had the correct crank and water pump pulley and the matching alternator brackets. The power steer pump was still suspect but I had the Borgeson conversion to do, so I just made up a spacer to suit. This then posed a new issue - the 347 kit I bought had been supplied with a 3-bolt balancer and worse, the rotating assembly had been balanced by now. What to do. I bought a new 4-bolt balancer and test fitted all the bits to confirm alignment. I was intending to flush the radiator and put it all back together, but all the radiator shops laughed at me and told me to walk when I told them it was an ebay special. So I made the executive decision to give up on the current, leaking, bog standard auto drive train and actually start rebuilding this thing. I have to say, the ebay radiator actually did work - it cooled the thing down from around 210 to 185 when both good fans were on and could keep it at a steady temperature when cruising. So I bought another, simply because I knew it worked, and 180 bucks was cheaper than the 200+ being charged for a flush (if I could find someone who could stop laughin when I said 'ebay alloy radiator' For reference the radiator is a GPI one, now sold by many vendors on ebay.
  21. Part 6 - a squeaky balljoint that got worse and worse Now I had this bad boy stopping and sounding good I started driving it around, just locally to the shops and stuff. Amazing how many people like old Mustangs, with waves, toots and people stopping to look. But when you drive them, things wear and it started to develop a squeak in the front LH ball joint. No problems I thinks, an afternoon job and all fixed. Wrong. One thing lead to another and suddenly I had a Mustang front suspension strewn across the floor. Why? Well, the 'rebuild' obviously didn't go too well as Old Mate had put 2 different sized uprights in the thing: What in the earth makes someone do that? At least they got it straight and square with multiple washers on the top wishbone bolts. Further carnage -" just throw the bushes in and tighten the feck out of the nuts will ya". Luckily, we have Falcons here which were built up to 1990 that were basically the same suspension as Mustangs. The last of them, the XF series, had strengthened top wish bones and rubber bushes rather than the old nut style pivot. And as luck would have it 10 miles down the road I have a bloke who has a heap of old Falcons in a field, including an XF. So, $250 later I had the entire front suspension including the alloy brake calipers in the back of my ute. A session on ebay had new poly bushes, balljoints, bearings, seals, paint. I also bought some local lowered springs and a 1 1/8" sway bar. Sandblasting, painting and wire brushing and I had something looking a bit nicer. I also replaced all the tie rod ends with new ones bought for the Borgeson conversion sitting on the shelf. The brake calipers used were XB Falcon, of around 1972 vintage. I didn't change these at this point as I was unsure how I was going to go. Legally, changing the brakes meant I needed an engineers report and a full brake test. Such is the idiocy of our road rules, I cannot put later, better performing brake calipers with better compound choice on the car but I can stuff a 429 in it and not touch anything. We have locally made camber bolts made here which are stronger than the Ford ones, so they went in as well. The sway bar was fantastic - it fitted exactly and I didn't need to anything to fight it in. This was made by Signature Sway bars, which is run by the son of Selby suspensions, quite a famous name in aftermarket suspension down here. One it was all put back together, I thought it handled much better. Certainly the front didn't 'wash out' with understeer like it did before, but maybe that was because it was so out of alignment.
  22. Not sure what a Pro Billet costs over there but I had mine in, running and sync'd in about 10 minutes. To me that's worth a lot of money in saved hassles. We don't have 'cold' days here. Probably 5 degrees C is the worst. It's also parked in a garage. The cold starts (and hot starts) are effortless; turn the key, it boots up and idles clean straight away. It may have a short period of higher idle but not as noticeable as our new cars when cold; not enough to notice it. The cold driveaway is the best part. We have a reasonably steep driveway and it goes up without hesitation. Across the valley from us someone has an old Falcon V8. He has to sit there warming it up, then coughs and farts all the way up the road for a bit. Man, I do not miss that hassle at all. Idle I had set about 900 as it was an auto which dropped to about 750 in drive.
  23. LOLS had to slow it down..... And put in a rookie driver. You can see the Viper was going to smoke it at the top end but then it just. Stopped. My sister has an EV and she loves it. I love it because it's more gas available for my Mustang. Pretty cool to be on TV but, and a Viper is up there in cred.
  24. The Scat and Eagle cast cranks seem to be very strong. I have heard of a 302 dropping a a valve with major carnage, but the crank was still in the broke block in one piece. Similarly, somewhere on youtube someone has a 302 with a split in half block that the Scat cast crank is still in one piece. I don't think you need to buy a steel crank is the message here. There's no replacement for cubic displacement which is why I went 347.
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