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1969_Mach1

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Posts posted by 1969_Mach1

  2. Posted · Report reply

    You put in that traction lock yourself? Haven't looked too hard for a NOS one but the new ones seem to be pretty reasonable for pricing.

     

    I rebuilt the rear axle myself. I installed the NOS Ford traction lock, Motive Gear 3.89 ring and pinion and Moser Engineering 31 spline axles. I've done a few ring and pinion setups plus the Motive Gear set had good instruction. I got lucky, at sometime a previous owner installed a Ford Nodular Iron center section with a Daytona pinion housing.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    You put in that traction lock yourself? Haven't looked too hard for a NOS one but the new ones seem to be pretty reasonable for pricing.

     

    I rebuilt the rear axle myself. I installed the NOS Ford traction lock, Motive Gear 3.89 ring and pinion and Moser Engineering 31 spline axles. I've done a few ring and pinion setups plus the Motive Gear set had good instruction. I got lucky, at sometime a previous owner installed a Ford Nodular Iron center section with a Daytona pinion housing.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    I have the Eastwood paint. I am not happy with it. It comes off easily with any chemical. Smells like its just a lacquer paint. And I have tried calling Holley for a price and cannot get through on the phone. I found one source. The price is good, but they glass bead the carb parts fist. I guess that's their cleaning method. I've seen some pictures of their finished work. The color is pretty close to correct but it has a dull (flat) finish. I've never been a fan or glass beading carb parts and from what I have read it causes the dull recolored finish.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    I have the Eastwood paint. I am not happy with it. It comes off easily with any chemical. Smells like its just a lacquer paint. And I have tried calling Holley for a price and cannot get through on the phone. I found one source. The price is good, but they glass bead the carb parts fist. I guess that's their cleaning method. I've seen some pictures of their finished work. The color is pretty close to correct but it has a dull (flat) finish. I've never been a fan or glass beading carb parts and from what I have read it causes the dull recolored finish.

  9. Posted · Edited by 1969_Mach1 · Report reply

    I have a 1995 F150 with a 5.8L and E4OD trans. It is 2 wheel drive and the trans is still so long I wouldn't think it will fit. That motor should be fuel injected. In 1995 Ford started using "Mass Air Fuel Injection" but in 1991 it was still the older "Speed Density" type of fuel injection. From what I know, speed density fuel injection systems do not tolerate well, if at all, engine modifications. Also, keep in mind, the 1991 351W block is not hydraulic roller cam compatible. Simply meaning the lifter bosses in the block were not made to accept OEM hydraulic roller lifters in conjunction with a standard base circle hydraulic roller cam.

  11. Posted · Report reply

    I re-glued mine about 10 years. I couldn't afford to convert to bolt in class. Anyway, since the old glue was completely removed I placed a couple pieces of thin rubber between the glass and channel. These were about 1 inch wide strips. These rubber strips 1) centered the glass in the channel, 2) held it snug in the channel, and 3) prevented any metal to glass contact. I then filled the channel with adhesive leaving the rubber strips in. I don't remember what type of adhesive it was. I got it from a body and paint store. It was messy like the urethane for installing front windshields, but not certain if that is what it was.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    If it were mine, I would rebuild or replace the hydraulic components in the brake system, wheel cylinders, calipers, master cylinder (replace with new only), and replace all the rubber brake hoses. I would also inspect the steel lines and all mechanical parts in the brake system and replace any worn or broken items. After sitting that long, I wouldn't feel safe simply fixing only what is currently wrong with the brakes.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    But I will need some type of locking differential though. I've been looking into the Detroit Locker but seeing what yall have been using.

     

    I am running an NOS Ford 31 spline 4 pinion traction lock. I am happy with it. I looked into using Detroit Locker before going with this traction lock. I did some research and even though the new Detroit Lockers are supposed to be less harsh, regardless of the article or forum the general consensus was on small lighter weight cars, Detroit Lockers make it more difficult to turn the vehicle. The rear wheels tend to keep pushing the vehicle straight as you go through a turn. You have to learn to work around that by not accelerating in a turn. Do some research on your own before deciding what to do. You may find different information.

  16. Posted · Edited by 1969_Mach1 · Report reply

    I agree with barnett468. Connecting to manifold is the last option. Connecting the vacuum advance to ported vacuum like your mechanic did is correct for your situation. The base timing of 10 to 12 degrees BTDC at idle is a good starting point, and will probably be correct, as barnett468 also mentioned. Be certain there is no vacuum at the vacuum advance on the distributor when setting or checking the base timing at idle. If a hot running engine is an issue after these are correct, you need to look at other items, dirty partially plugged radiator, correct fan setup, etc.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    I have the iron 4V 63cc heads w/sanderson shorties NOT coated.

     

    It's not like my hands are catching on fire, but after a while trying to fine tune, the right rear mixture screw is a little tough and the export brace doesn't help either.

    I can try a welders glove.

     

     

    I was going to suggest wearing gloves but thought maybe you had already tried. Hardware stores usually have an insulated glove that is thinner and less cumbersome than welders gloves. It won't take much. The uncoated headers are certainly not helping. Like another member suggested, a simple house fan in front of the car to move some air across the engine compartment will make a big difference.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    The motor runs 180*, but I have the 4 corner mixture screw set up. Because of the Export Brace being in the way of the right rear adjustment and the heat from the headers and intake, I can only keep my hand there for a few seconds after the motor is fully warmed up.

     

     

    I understand. I also run a four corner idle mixture screw setup. Its on a Holly DP, but can still take time to get them adjusted and the export brace doesn't help. Although my motor runs a bit cooler and I don't have the burning heat issue. On the positive side, after you get them adjusted, you will know how far to back them off of seat and future readjustments are simple.

  20. Posted · Edited by 1969_Mach1
    errors     · Report reply

    You are correct, Max Power. I didn't even consider that aspect. I can see where the increased leverage from a manual brake pedal would cause brakes to be too touchy on a power brake system. Also, though its been a while since I compared the two pedals, I think based on geometry, the pedal pad on a manual brake pedal will travel further than the pedal pad on a power brake pedal to obtain the same amount of rod travel.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    If the threads on the stud actually stripped, I agree, poor quality parts. It sounds from how they tightened when installing like the threads on the studs were not cut or formed correctly. Go with MOOG or Raybestos (formerly Spicer) and not any of the lower grade products they offer.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    This post is the first time I've heard of these transformations. I wished I had that skill and talent. The finished fastbacks look flawless. I really didn't know there was that much demand for fastbacks. On a side note, I have wondered (not trying to be negative) how the cost for this transformation compares to the value of the finished transformed fastback? Since, I'm guessing the vin still indicates the finished transformed fastback is a coupe, what affect does that have on its value?

  25. Posted · Report reply

    A long time ago a friend of mine had problems removing stuck lifters on a SBC motor while doing a cam swap in the car. What he did was get a piece of cardboard (or box from new camshaft) a least the length of the cam and form it into a U-shape trough that would fit into the cam bearings in the block. He slid the cardboard in and pushed the lifters down from the top. The lifters fell into the cardboard trough. Then gently pulled out the cardboard trough with lifers in it. You may not want to do all the lifers at one time to be a little more care full. This is usually a simple solution to stuck lifter removal problems.

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