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1969_Mach1

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Posts posted by 1969_Mach1

  1. Posted · Report reply

    I agree, on vacuum secondary carbs it is difficult to adjust the secondary throttle plates. They make a lever for DP carbs to adjust the secondary throttle plates from the top. Why they don't offer something for vacuum secondary carbs is beyond me. Most people set the primary throttle plates where they should be and use the secondary throttle plates to fine tune the idle speed.

  2. Posted · Report reply

    I agree, on vacuum secondary carbs it is difficult to adjust the secondary throttle plates. They make a lever for DP carbs to adjust the secondary throttle plates from the top. Why they don't offer something for vacuum secondary carbs is beyond me. Most people set the primary throttle plates where they should be and use the secondary throttle plates to fine tune the idle speed.

  5. Posted · Edited by 1969_Mach1 · Report reply

    Reading through this post, are bushings completely eliminated from the front strut attachment to the cross member? Simply only my opinion, not trying to critic anything, but from an Engineering standpoint, I would expect large impact loads applied to that cross member from the strut. On a street driven car some type of damping would be beneficial for that front attachment to the cross member.

  6. Posted · Edited by 1969_Mach1 · Report reply

    Reading through this post, are bushings completely eliminated from the front strut attachment to the cross member? Simply only my opinion, not trying to critic anything, but from an Engineering standpoint, I would expect large impact loads applied to that cross member from the strut. On a street driven car some type of damping would be beneficial for that front attachment to the cross member.

  7. Posted · Edited by 1969_Mach1 · Report reply

    I think with 35 nozzle you may need a hollow nozzle screw per Holley's recommendations.

     

    If everything is correct on a Holley, sometimes is takes a 50cc accelerator pump to overcome a stumble. This is more common on single plane intakes since each cylinder draws from both sides of the carb, the velocity through each booster is less, therefore, they do not start up as soon. If in the future you look into a new carb I would recommend, if at all possible, get something with Annular Boosters. They are the most sensitive, start up with lower air velocities, atomize fuel better, eliminate some drivability issues, and provide crisper throttle response when compared to a down leg or straight leg booster.

  8. Posted · Edited by 1969_Mach1 · Report reply

    I think with 35 nozzle you may need a hollow nozzle screw per Holley's recommendations.

     

    If everything is correct on a Holley, sometimes is takes a 50cc accelerator pump to overcome a stumble. This is more common on single plane intakes since each cylinder draws from both sides of the carb, the velocity through each booster is less, therefore, they do not start up as soon. If in the future you look into a new carb I would recommend, if at all possible, get something with Annular Boosters. They are the most sensitive, start up with lower air velocities, atomize fuel better, eliminate some drivability issues, and provide crisper throttle response when compared to a down leg or straight leg booster.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    MikeStang,

     

    You may get it to run okay. But that's not the best carb for that application. It may be difficult to tune out the stumble with that carb and your motor combination. To begin with, I would verify the primary throttle plate position is correct at idle. For your motor they are likely open to far to obtain idle which can cause engine run on (dieseling) and your off idle stumble.

     

    I have no experience with Street Avenger Carbs simply because word-of-mouth in my area is to stay away from them for any application. Why, I don't know. I cannot afford to purchase something others have had bad experiences with. It seems to me they were not intended to be used with the weak signals from single plane intakes and large overlap camshafts. With a lot of valve overlap and a single plane intake I would expect some rough idle conditions, cold and/or hot.

     

    If it's in your budget I would definitely consider replacing the Street Avenger with a Double Pumper series carb if you want a choke or HP series carb if you don't want a choke.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    MikeStang,

     

    You may get it to run okay. But that's not the best carb for that application. It may be difficult to tune out the stumble with that carb and your motor combination. To begin with, I would verify the primary throttle plate position is correct at idle. For your motor they are likely open to far to obtain idle which can cause engine run on (dieseling) and your off idle stumble.

     

    I have no experience with Street Avenger Carbs simply because word-of-mouth in my area is to stay away from them for any application. Why, I don't know. I cannot afford to purchase something others have had bad experiences with. It seems to me they were not intended to be used with the weak signals from single plane intakes and large overlap camshafts. With a lot of valve overlap and a single plane intake I would expect some rough idle conditions, cold and/or hot.

     

    If it's in your budget I would definitely consider replacing the Street Avenger with a Double Pumper series carb if you want a choke or HP series carb if you don't want a choke.

  11. Posted · Edited by 1969_Mach1 · Report reply

    The most common size nozzle for street cars is 31. Sometimes the off idle flat spot is caused by the primary throttle plates being open too far at ide. When this happens too much of the transfer slot is exposed at idle. There should only be about 0.020" to 0.040" of the slot exposed below the throttle plates at idle. If too much slot is exposed at idle, then slightly off idle there is a flat spot because the air velocity is too low for the main circuit to start and the flow through the transfer slot is already at it's max. If you think that may be the case you need to open the secondaries more and close the primaries.

     

    Also, be certain the accelerator pump linkage is adjusted correctly. The pink cam is most common and I think provides the most movement for a 30cc pump. Zero play in the linkage at idle and do not bottom out the accelerator pump diaphragm at wide open throttle.

     

    Lastly, rough idle when cold can be a rich condition as well. Holley's performance carbs tend to not need much choke plate closure immediately after start up. I am not familiar with how to adjust the choke pull off on Holley electric chokes.

  12. Posted · Edited by 1969_Mach1 · Report reply

    The most common size nozzle for street cars is 31. Sometimes the off idle flat spot is caused by the primary throttle plates being open too far at ide. When this happens too much of the transfer slot is exposed at idle. There should only be about 0.020" to 0.040" of the slot exposed below the throttle plates at idle. If too much slot is exposed at idle, then slightly off idle there is a flat spot because the air velocity is too low for the main circuit to start and the flow through the transfer slot is already at it's max. If you think that may be the case you need to open the secondaries more and close the primaries.

     

    Also, be certain the accelerator pump linkage is adjusted correctly. The pink cam is most common and I think provides the most movement for a 30cc pump. Zero play in the linkage at idle and do not bottom out the accelerator pump diaphragm at wide open throttle.

     

    Lastly, rough idle when cold can be a rich condition as well. Holley's performance carbs tend to not need much choke plate closure immediately after start up. I am not familiar with how to adjust the choke pull off on Holley electric chokes.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Tha car has never smell that intense

     

    Yes i know about afr Im just using is an a aprox tool not like a accurate

     

    This post has been interesting and I have learned how to recurve a stock Ford distributor. I am not certain is causing the smell. I just would like to throw this out. I know you followed all the instructions and your car runs a lot better. But are you certain it is not detonating (pinging) with the new advance curve and maybe its hard to hear over the exhaust noise. I've experienced more intense exhaust smell when motors start detonating.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Tha car has never smell that intense

     

    Yes i know about afr Im just using is an a aprox tool not like a accurate

     

    This post has been interesting and I have learned how to recurve a stock Ford distributor. I am not certain is causing the smell. I just would like to throw this out. I know you followed all the instructions and your car runs a lot better. But are you certain it is not detonating (pinging) with the new advance curve and maybe its hard to hear over the exhaust noise. I've experienced more intense exhaust smell when motors start detonating.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Ok, I bled the brakes again and when I drove it to test them out I noticed when I was sitting at a stop sign that my idle was higher and as soon as I let off the brakes the idle drops back down.Is this a bad brake booster or is it something else that I'm missing?

     

    The idle speed shouldn't change when applying the brakes. Sounds like your rebuilt brake booster is bad and has a vacuum leak when you apply the brakes. There may be a small additional issue unrelated to your brakes. That is your idle air fuel mixture may be a little too rich since the idle speed increases 300 to 400 RPM when additional air from a leaking brake booster is introduced into the engine.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Ok, I bled the brakes again and when I drove it to test them out I noticed when I was sitting at a stop sign that my idle was higher and as soon as I let off the brakes the idle drops back down.Is this a bad brake booster or is it something else that I'm missing?

     

    The idle speed shouldn't change when applying the brakes. Sounds like your rebuilt brake booster is bad and has a vacuum leak when you apply the brakes. There may be a small additional issue unrelated to your brakes. That is your idle air fuel mixture may be a little too rich since the idle speed increases 300 to 400 RPM when additional air from a leaking brake booster is introduced into the engine.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Contact Shaun at Street or Track, and he can help you out with what you need. I think he even has a reseller in country to you that may help on pricing and shipping.

     

    http://www.streetortrack.com/Australian-Distributorship-p-10.html

     

    I read this post because I have considered rear disc brakes on my Mach 1. I've always wondered how connecting the emergency brake cable is done. Are there any other methods than what is shown on Street or Track's website? The method they show using hardware store cable clamps is kind of "sketchy".

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Contact Shaun at Street or Track, and he can help you out with what you need. I think he even has a reseller in country to you that may help on pricing and shipping.

     

    http://www.streetortrack.com/Australian-Distributorship-p-10.html

     

    I read this post because I have considered rear disc brakes on my Mach 1. I've always wondered how connecting the emergency brake cable is done. Are there any other methods than what is shown on Street or Track's website? The method they show using hardware store cable clamps is kind of "sketchy".

  21. Posted · Edited by 1969_Mach1 · Report reply

    69volunteer.

     

    Its true that the worm, worm nut, and sector gears wear and are not available new so a rebuilt steering box will never be as good as new. But sometimes its the best you can do. If you want to adjust your steering box read through the procedure in the Ford service manual first. The gears in steering boxes are designed to have an interference fit with a slight preload when centered (front wheels positioned straight ahead) there should be zero "play" plus a slight preload at that position. Also, the worm shaft bearings need to be preloaded.

     

    If your steering box and linkage are okay, a common cause of looseness and wandering is the control valve assembly. If you study the design of it you will understand why. The ball stud that connects the control valve assembly to the steering arm moves side to side slightly to operate the valve inside the control valve assembly that directs hydraulic fluid to the assist cylinder. When you turn the steering wheel an initial very small amount of your turning of the wheel is used to move this valve which feels like looseness in the steering. Visa-versa as you drive and the wheels hit a bump the steering linkage moves a small amount, since you are holding the steering wheel fixed the ball stud momentarily moves the valve inside the control valve assembly a bit redirecting fluid causing a wander that you need to correct for.

     

    I rebuilt the steering box in my Mach 1 and it works fine. But I also removed the PS for the reasons you are describing.

     

    The last but simple item I am aware of that causes wander at the speeds you mention is not enough positive caster in the front wheel alignment. I think I would check that first so you know its correct, unless you know of worn items in the steering linkage.

  22. Posted · Edited by 1969_Mach1 · Report reply

    69volunteer.

     

    Its true that the worm, worm nut, and sector gears wear and are not available new so a rebuilt steering box will never be as good as new. But sometimes its the best you can do. If you want to adjust your steering box read through the procedure in the Ford service manual first. The gears in steering boxes are designed to have an interference fit with a slight preload when centered (front wheels positioned straight ahead) there should be zero "play" plus a slight preload at that position. Also, the worm shaft bearings need to be preloaded.

     

    If your steering box and linkage are okay, a common cause of looseness and wandering is the control valve assembly. If you study the design of it you will understand why. The ball stud that connects the control valve assembly to the steering arm moves side to side slightly to operate the valve inside the control valve assembly that directs hydraulic fluid to the assist cylinder. When you turn the steering wheel an initial very small amount of your turning of the wheel is used to move this valve which feels like looseness in the steering. Visa-versa as you drive and the wheels hit a bump the steering linkage moves a small amount, since you are holding the steering wheel fixed the ball stud momentarily moves the valve inside the control valve assembly a bit redirecting fluid causing a wander that you need to correct for.

     

    I rebuilt the steering box in my Mach 1 and it works fine. But I also removed the PS for the reasons you are describing.

     

    The last but simple item I am aware of that causes wander at the speeds you mention is not enough positive caster in the front wheel alignment. I think I would check that first so you know its correct, unless you know of worn items in the steering linkage.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    And which company is this? B.

     

    This was just a private party. I got the contact info from another person that does a lot of carb rebuilding and uses them for recoloring. I've seen the Caswell Plating DIY kits. From reading posts in forums about them it seems the DIY kit works. Everything I read says cleaning is the key issue. I read in several posts on cleaning that the sheen of the finished recoloring is greatly determined by how smooth the prepped surface is. Glass beading produces a dull finish and a smooth surface produces a somewhat semi-gloss sheen more similar to Holley's current Dichromate finish.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    And which company is this? B.

     

    This was just a private party. I got the contact info from another person that does a lot of carb rebuilding and uses them for recoloring. I've seen the Caswell Plating DIY kits. From reading posts in forums about them it seems the DIY kit works. Everything I read says cleaning is the key issue. I read in several posts on cleaning that the sheen of the finished recoloring is greatly determined by how smooth the prepped surface is. Glass beading produces a dull finish and a smooth surface produces a somewhat semi-gloss sheen more similar to Holley's current Dichromate finish.

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