Rsmach1
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Posts posted by Rsmach1
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You're voltage issue is unusual, first thing I would do is check/replace the belt, slippage at rpm's above idle could cause a voltage drop. Might want to pull the alternator and have it tested just to be sure(many places test for free). As stated put before check the grounds and connections, make sure the engine ground is attached to a CLEAN UNPAINTED spot on the block itself.
Question, each time you replaced the module were you having the exact same symptoms? Did it seem to totally solve the issues? I ask because lack of fuel can cause the same symptom you're describing, an engine under load requires more fuel then one being revved standing still. May want to check the fuel filter, as well as full pressure.
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Looks like a 351w, that intake looks to have a 7581 part# on the back, wich is a Edelbrock rpm air gap for a 351w.
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So Ridge Runners Rail Removing/Reinstall Ratchet?
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So now you need a name for the tool, how's about,
Ridge Runners Rail Removing Ratchet? LOL
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Two things I'd check,1 as mentioned by Barnett468 plug wire routing, and if you just did the top end distributor could be a tooth off (or 180 off). In your video you're getting spark as noted by the flame coming from the carb. I'd lean more towards 180 off.
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That works, PM sent
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Question of the day... How much?
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Nice, keeps us up to date. Won't be working on mine for a few days, over 100 degrees here lol
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Yep the 69-70 tool for me as well.
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Hope all the dad's here have a great day.
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Put me down for 1 lol.
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If thinking about their 2 row maybe consider the American Eagle line. It has 1" tubes vs the 3/4, http://www.championradiators.com/page/433255896
Second rad down the page.
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Two cool, very nice work.
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Very nice, I like where you're going with it.
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What it comes down to is personal preference, performance oriented car, use the shift kit, weekend cruiser, maybe go without it. See if you can find someone who has one installed add go for a ride, judge for yourself.
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Put one on every car I've owned that didn't have an electronically controlled trans (street or street/strip car). Benefits are less slippage wich translates into less wear of the frictions, less heat overall, and longer trans life. The only downside is some Don't care for the snappier shifts.
Edit; If you Don't like it, it can be removed with the trans in the car. Just tells you're builder to save the stock parts.
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Yes it happens, makes you wonder who's making them.
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Oops forgot about the champion fit, but being all repo stuff you can always just bend it a little.
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Check NPD, they have all the brackets and insulators. If you go with there "cheaper" parts you can get everything for around 60-70 bucks.
Edit; You'll need a pr of the lower mounts, pr of the lower insulators, the upper mount, and upper insulator.
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PS use stainless hardware.
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Just using rubber washers at the bolts between the scoop and the hood will leave a gap between the the scoop/hood between the bolts. If you're worried about the hood being scuffed probably better off finding something to make a gasket out of that goes around the whole perimeter of the scoop.
Looks good, where did you pick that up?
Edit; I it was me I'd just bolt it on and forget about the washers/gasket. If you ever decide to remove it any scuffing won't matter with all the bolt holes showing lol.
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Side note, when I did mine years ago I got the same hoses, I seem to remember having to bend 1 of the metal lines slightly, but they worked fine.
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Yes, originally they were 2 separate part #s one being a tad longer, the replacement is the longer one. If you want concours CJ sells the 2 length hoses, but the longer one can be used to replace both.
Electronic distributor module failure
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
One more idea, do you still have the stock coil around? Or have someone that would let you borrow one to try? Only ask cause I've had crap luck with accell coils, and trying a known working coil without having spend $ playing "the swap" game.