Rsmach1
-
Content Count
887 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
12
Posts posted by Rsmach1
-
-
You should definitely have more mechanical advance then what you do. I would probably pull the distributor (although it can be done in car) and check the advance to see if everything moves freely (weights and breaker plate). By 2000rpm you should have roughly between 19.5 and 24.5° (mechanical only), according to the original Ford manual.
Edit; your vacuum advance is in spec, manual calls for 11-16° MAX.
-
+1 if you can't lock up the front there is something wrong, time to figure out what it is. If you can't lock up single piston calipers, you won't be able to with 4 piston calipers either.OEM front brakes should be able to lock up the front tires.
Feel free to list what you've done to the braking system so far, and how much vacuum your engine makes at idle. Also what does the pedal feel like.
-
3 3/4" tach mounted to pillar.
I've often wondered what it would be like to drive for just over 6 min and only see 6 cars on the road, and all of em going the opposite direction.
I gotta get out of L.A. :-/
-
When you say gas fumes do you mean exhaust fumes? Or do you smell gas? If exhaust and your pipes exits out the rear it might be time for a new trunk seal, tail light seals, filler neck to taillight panel seal, or you might need to reseal the tank to the body. If you actually smell gas better check the hose that connects the filler to the tank, or the tank itself. My 69 (fold down rear seat) really has nothing to "seal" the trunk from the passenger compartment.
-
Sure you can upgrade, check Willwood, Baer, SSBC, there are a few companies out there.
Edit; Willwood has kits that bolt to your stock disc spindles, others might as well, but some require drum spindles. Something to keep in mind when shopping.
-
They all came with insulation.
-
Your welcome.
-
Unless you really want a high dollar starter just so you know the 93 and up 5.0 mustangs used a high torque mini starter (PMGR). You can get one from Autozone http://m.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/starter/duralast-gold-starter/ford/mustang/1993/8-cylinders-e-5-0l-fi-hp/352101_43699_0?location=
It's new and comes with a LIFETIME WARRANTY for less than 1/2 the price, vs 1 year for the MSD.
Just a thought.
-
How much compression does your engine have? I have no experience with MSD starters, with just over 10:1 comp I just use a rebuilt late model starter.
Side note, another more common method to wire it up is to run the hvy starter lead from the battery side of the original solenoid (so batt and starter on the same terminal), and run the smaller 12g wire from the starter side of your original solenoid. This is how I did mine. I didn't notice the different wiring on the link I posted.
-
Here's how to wire a late model PMGR thru your fender mounted solenoid. http://www.dbelectrical.com/popup.aspx?src=wolthuis.aspx?e=0%26src2=images%2fproduct%2flarge%2f1095_4_.jpg%26size=large
-
Wow now that's a super Trans cooler lol
-
Is there an epoxy paint that would work?
The VHT roll bar/chassis paint is listed as an epoxy. http://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat/vht-roll-bar-chassis-paint
-
+1 on VHT's satin roll bar and chassis paint. #SP671
-
Who makes the best full floor? I am going to use dynacorn for the quarters and try to find doors or fix mine. Thanks
Ridgerunner speaks highly of the Scott Drake floors, if he doesn't chime in send him a pm.
-
They are hoping for someone with the 1st, last, or 1 of 1 BOSS 429 car that want to em for a concourse.
Good luck with that lol.
Not my thumbs
-
-
+1 all depends on if it's been previously resurfaced, and how's much has to be removed to clean it up.
Not my thumb.
-
-
If wouldn't do a T5 with a big block, if you want a 5sp go with a TKO.
If your thinking of a big block FE for the cool factor, have at it. If you want HP do a stroked 351 Windsor.
-
small flexible hands, custom bent wrenches, and a swivel head ratchet for starters
lol, ain't that the truth.
-
Roughly, buy 13 or 14 to be safe.
-
You can use mercon VI as well, I believe Motorcrafts V is a semi synthetic and VI is a full synthetic.
If your tranny guy says mercon VI, by all means use it. The TSB I referred to was probably prior to mercon VI being available.
-
Nickjames138, you need to check all the bushings/ball joints, put those new springs/shocks on, have the alignment done.
Also check the play in the steering box. A quality rack isn't a waste of $ if you can afford it.
-
Mercon V, and about 12qts total with the converter. Ford had a TSB recommending this fluid to help with a torque converter shudder issue.
Distributor timing/advance help
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
One more thought, it's possible at some point someone put hvy advance springs in, or limited the mechanical advance to keep it from pinging (detonation).
Edit; Is this a "stock" 351w 4v?