Lil John SVT

I'm gonna go with replacement 69' quarter panels. I'll fill in the indetention left from the scoop. I'll try to use the exsisting sheet metal but it'll be hard due to both quarters full of bondo. I'll probably get a sheet of 16-18 gauge sheet metal to fill the holes and do other rust repairs.

I'm leaning towards deleting them and fill in the hole with new metal. I like the clean side look.

In my other thread I was asking about replacing both my quarter panels on my 69 coupe. I don't like the side scoops on the 69's. They look backwards and serve no point. I seen the 70' coupes don't have any scoops. Are theses quarter panels the same beside the deletion of the scoop?

I've seen the panels overlapped before. And I have a sheetmetal flange tool already. After flanging the metal it's perfectly flush with the other metal. So welding and body work would greatly reduced. As far as "original appearance" on the inside or being a invisible repair I'm not worried about that at all. The coupes aren't exactly a sought after car and I have no plans on selling it. But I love the looks of the 69' coupes. And it'll be passed down to my son. Not many kids have intrest in the old school cars.

Thanks for the pics.. I see you removed the viynl top. I can't wait to throw mine in the trash. I like the way you did it.

Thanks for the replies. I'm pretty much sold on the Dyncorn panels. I'll start my parts buying soon. I have another question. I've read and researched about changing out my quarter panels over and over. And I've come up with two ways as to where to cut the old panel off. I've seen some cut the old panel off right below the top body line and butt weld it there. Which would make the body work the entire length of the panel. I also seen some make the cut between the top body line and trunk lip. This cut would require less body work and be easier to hide the repair. Any input on the right/better way to install the new panel?

I'm collecting parts for my '69 coupe for a father-son project. I'm gonna replace both quarters and tail light panel. I heard stories about poor fitting panels. Who makes the best fitting panels? I read good reviews about dynacorn parts. Any input on other panels? Also I need to replace/repair some sheet metal on the doors and front fenders. What gauge sheet metal is best to replace the rusted out pieces?

Got both door windows glued in and adjusted. What a nightmare. The passenger side needs a slight tweaking. Drivers door works flawless. Thanks for the help.

Got the window glued in. Trying to get it to roll up right. A whole day fighting with it. I don't understand how they did this on a assembly line? Get the front in the right place the back is off. I'm trying to figure out why the back starts moving upwards before the front moves at all. There's slack somewhere. I'm thinking it's where the window regulator bolts to the front channel. There's movement there no matter how tight I it it.

Thanks. I have my marks on my windows by using that template. My window fits tight in the window support now. So I'll glue them and install them and roll them up to be certain. Thanks again.

I have some thick rubber tape from work. I put some in the channels. Fits very tight and no movement at all. So that's fixed. Now I have another question. After I install the urethane in the channel and make sure the glass is seated all the way down, do I let it sit and dry or hurry and put it in the door and roll the window up? The reason I'm asking is because when I try to roll the window up with just the window sitting in the channel the channels twist all up. One side always goes up first. I know with the guides that go on the bars on the inside the door won't fit with them bolted to the channels. The urethane will be here tomorrow and I was hoping to do the windows this weekend.

I'm trying to understand something. Both the door windows need to be reglued. I removed all the old hard epoxy out the window brackets. I have some rubber tape that I put on both ends to avoid glass to metal contact. But when I slide the brackets on the glass, they flop side to side. There's no way to tighten the gap. So do I put glue the the brackets and set the glass in inside the door and roll the window up? I know with the bracket not in the right place it'll affect the roll up/down function.

Id like to have this. But I have nothing your looking for. Good luck.

I'll be glueing mine in shortly. Found the diagram for the for the guides and marked there location on the glass. So that'll get me close to where they need to be when I glue them. Gonna glue them in then roll the window up to make sure they in the right spot. But I have a issue I'm not sure about. I removed all the old clay like epoxy out the holders. Now the window flops around, without anything adhesive in it. I'm wondering if I apply the glue and roll the window up, what if the holders are kicked to the inside or outside? I tried closing the gap at the top but there's no way of closing it at the bottom. What am I missing?

I'm gonna get a rebuilt steering box and go from there. The car is sitting because I can't drive it. The more it sits the more I lose intrest in it. So I'll give the factory set up a shot. I know it won't drive like newer vehicles. But anything is better than what I have. I got numerous things to fix on the car. The previous owners didn't do any up keep at all. And by swapping the I6 for a 351w and deciding a serpentine belt set up was better, that opened other problems. So I'll have to do piece by piece til she's road worthy again.

My steering box is shot. Tried to tighten it up and all it did was make it harder to turn and didn't take any slack out of the steering. I want to drive the car so bad but it's impossible with almost a half turn of the wheel in slack. With my hand at the 12 o'clock position, I can go from 3 to 9 without moving the wheels.

My steering box is shot. Tried to tighten it up and all it did was make it harder to turn and didn't take any slack out of the steering. I want to drive the car so bad but it's impossible with almost a half turn of the wheel in slack. With my hand at the 12 o'clock position, I can go from 3 to 9 without moving the wheels.

I'm gathering parts for my car. The stock power steering is shot. To the point I can't drive it. I talked to another classic mustang owner that swapped to a rack and pinion. He said he did away with the power steering and went with a manual rack and pinion. He stated that the steering isn't that hard to turn. So now I'm wondering if it's worth doing away with the power steering and going manual. I know there's a big price difference. I have a 351w in the car. I know a big block would be hard to turn with the extra weight. What you think?

I'm gathering parts for my car. The stock power steering is shot. To the point I can't drive it. I talked to another classic mustang owner that swapped to a rack and pinion. He said he did away with the power steering and went with a manual rack and pinion. He stated that the steering isn't that hard to turn. So now I'm wondering if it's worth doing away with the power steering and going manual. I know there's a big price difference. I have a 351w in the car. I know a big block would be hard to turn with the extra weight. What you think?

I just don't like the scoops on a coupe. They look backwards to me. On the fastbacks, those are nice. It's just not my thing.

I'm in the process of slowly fixing the car. That vinyl roof has to go. Never was a fan of it. Got new quarter paneled coming also. Gonna shave the side scoops or whatever they called. I'm researching the steering now. It needs to be redone. I'm leaning towards a rack and pinion set up. Not sure if I want to keep the power steering or go manual. It's gonna be a slow rebuild but in the end it'll be built by me and my way!!!!!

That would be great.

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I'll try to load some pics soon. I can put a patch panel after I cut the rust out and get it close. I'll just have to make the small body lines with the filler.