Lil John SVT

Basically what I'm getting at is, is fixing the original a/c worth the money versus a aftermarket set up. Resale value, it's a coupe, not much there. Plus I don't see it being sold, rather pass it down. I know you can get all the parts to rebuild the original set up. Just wasn't sure it was worth it. That's all

I redoing my 69 coupe. The previous owner decided to update the a/c compressor to the new style, serpentine belt. In the process they cut lines, hose clamped lines, botched up the condenser. The a/c control face is gone. Along with all the vac lines. I'm wondering if it'd be best just to remove all the original a/c components and clean up the engine bay. And if it comes to it I can always install an aftermarket a/c unit. I don't think it's worth the money to try to replace everything to keep it original looking.

Thinking of supporting it at the 4 torque boxes, undoing the rear hangers and letting the rear end sit on Jack stands. Possibly supporting the pinch welds on the rocker panels after its all level. Thanks for the replies.

My car is complete, motor-trans-rear end. Don't want it to turn into a huge mess. Trying to keep it as square as possible.

Ok I'm gonna swap out my quarter panels. I remember reading how to set the car up, to keep it square. But I can't find where I read it. Do I support the car by all 4 torque boxes or let the tires support the weight? I'm gonna swap out both quarters then do the taillight panel to keep it all square. Any tips is appreciated.

A c4 rebuild kit is cheap. So in going to pull it and have it rebuilt to make sure it's all good. The front seal was seeping anyways. And I'm looking into running a aftermarket trans cooler. Just another step in the building restoring process.

Well I decide to start working on my 69 coupe after it been sitting for two years untouched. Ordered the disc brake kit and borgeson steering box fir starters. Point and coil was acting crazy so I installed a HEI distributor for now to get it running. Started the car and the radiator was low so added some water. Let the car get to temp and killed it. Checked the water it was low so I added more. Started it back up and the water came to the top of the radiator. I looked at and it was pink. So I stuck my finger in it to see what it was. Transmission fluid!!!! Killed the car and pulled the trans dipstick. Full of water. Apparently the trans cooler in the bottom of the radiator busted and that's where the water went to. Gonna pull the trans to fix the leaking front seal and refresh the trans. Thinking of going with a aftermarket trans cooler and plug the ones in the radiator.

Well I have the borgeson box sitting next to my car. Haven't installed it yet. I have a later year ps pump. The plastic housing pumps. Not sure if it'll deliver the necessary pressure. I guess I'll find out. Gonna ditch the factory ps set up. Plus my steering box is so shot to the point of you try to turn the wheel it just pops.

I'm going to call Dallas mustang and ask what manufacture they use. Any recommendations ? Dallas mustang is 4 hours from me. The reason I rather drive is the shipping is ridiculous, $250 to ship two panels.

I'm still on the fence about replacing them. Both quarters are heavily bondoed at least 1/2 way the wheel well. I noticed the body line behind the rear well on the passenger side is half way covered with bondo, to the point there is no body line. I know it's a lot of work, but I want to do it once and do it right. I guess new panel fitment depends on the panel manufacture. So as of right now I'm still not sure which way to go with them.

My plan is to delete the trim completely and fill in all the holes. Just have the rubber gasket back there. I think the smooth look without the trim won't be bad at all.

Yeah it's a coupe. Working on getting back on the road.

Thanks guys.

How do you remove this small trim piece? Every way I try it wants to bend. The drip mounding pops right off.

Thanks for the explanation. I was hoping it was a plug and play. I guess not. I might get everything together and then get new hoses made. Did you secure them to the frame, clips, to keep them from moving around??

I read most of it. I have stock exhaust on my 351w but I will be installing headers later on. Instead of looping it around the shock tower, I wonder if you could make a small hole in the shock tower and loop it around back to the pump. I know making holes in the towers would be frowned upon, but if it'll be simpler and easier why not. You could reinforce the holes with a patch panel to keep the strength. Just a thought

I'm wondering if the hoses will bolt to it or I'll have to have new ones made? I got the hoses from borgeson with the steering box.

I'm trying to clean up the engine bay on my car. I'm not keeping it all original since it wasn't when I got it. I been fighting with points and no spark, so I removed that and went with a HEI distributor for now. My next move is the altenator and all the electrical boxes in the engine compartment. I want to do a single wire altenator. But I'm not sure if removing all the wires and boxes will interfere with the cars functions. As far as gauges go, I'm putting all Autometer gauges, so they'll be stand alone. Any thoughts on this?

I ordered a ton of parts getting everything ready to restore my mustang. One part is the Borgeson power steering box. I've read countless post about the stock pump not being able to supply the needed pressure for the new box. But my car doesn't have the original pump. Honestly I don't know what pump is on it. Maybe somebody can chime in and tell if this pump is gonna work or if I need a different one. Thanks.

No they don't work either

My headlights, brake lights work. But I have no turn signals. Checked the fuses and bulbs, they all good. Where should I go to next?

Well a friend of mine who's a long time body man came and looked at my car today. He said that he wouldn't change the quarter panels. He said he'd replace the bad spots, most are on the bottom. He says the body work, he'd remove the old bondo and rework the metal. He said new quarter panels sometimes are more hassle to get to fit right and it's only feesable when there's no chance of saving the panels. So I think I might take his advice and rework my panels. The taillight panel is bent up from a previous wreck and has rust around the lens. I don't see that that panel would be hard to replace. So I guess when everyone says to keep as much original sheet metal as possible, that's what I'm going to do.

Right now the trunk area is perfect. So all the lines are square. So that's a plus. I need to change out the tail light panel. But that'll be after both quarters on. To make sure all stays square. And I'll do one side at a time to avoid any mistakes.

Is there any spot welds in the overlap in the quarter windows? I'm trying to figure out the best place to cut out the old panel. I've looked it over and over. Not sure the best location to cut. I was thinking song the top body line on the inside towards the trunk. It'll be easier to hide the weld seam. Is this a good idea? Here's some pics of what I'm talking about. As far as factory spot welds, I don't care about that. It's a project car, not going for a factory show car look.

I'm gonna change out both quarter panel on my 69' mustang, due to rust and tons of bondo from a previous wreck. The passenger side needs a full quarter, no way around it. But the drivers side, from the middle of the wheel arch to the front is in good shape. Only the rear needs changing. Should I split it there and only change the rear section? Or just do a full panel replacement?