TeamPontiac79

Just an observation, the measurement is from the lower moulding edge to upper edge of mirror mount. Looks like you are sitting at 4-1/8. If there's a friend available, ha e them hold the mirror at the 3-5/8, and see how it feels to you as the driver. If it's good, go with that. If not, minor changes for safety seem legit.

Sizemoremk, for what it is worth, if you are able to find a mid 70s maverick, you may find your gold mine of vacuum bits for your car very cheaply. I found a 75 or 76 in a junk yard, and was abke to salvage the switch and silicone hoses which were properly color coded, only a bit longer (that's an easy problem to fix!). I didn't/don't have actuator issues, but you may be able to use them as well. In any case, I used those slightly newer and way higher quality parts, and I am very happy with that part of the system. Only mod I needed was to extend a wire to use the plastic vacuum switch. Again, an easy problem to solve. Didn't even cut the factory wire. I think I paid $5 for everything. Could maybe scour ebay as well?

Not sure what it's called, but you should post the pic and description in the parts for sale / wanted forum. It may help to also take a pic of the location in the car where it goes. Good luck!

Currently I'm in Key Largo through tomorrow, maybe longer. Headed back to frozen Philadelphia PA later in the week.

Hey folks, I believe I have a burnt exhaust valve on the driver's side of my 302. It's a bone stock original with 72k miles. Only thing changed internally was the timing chain. I am on the road far from home, and don't have compression/vacuum gauges available. The problem has been persistent from beforw I left, but getting worse. The ignition components are new or verified (new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, recent points/condensor, original coil). The engine has a pretty regular miss when decelerating, cruising, or accelerating lightly. It seems to go away while I accelerate spiritedly or hammer it, so under a heavy load no vacuum condition is when I don't notice it. It's also less noticeable at idle, but definitely still there. I'm also getting the characteristic popping at the tailpipe, and a piece of paper placed at the pipe shows it is actually a momentary sucking. Car has dual exhaust, and it's only doing it on the left. Is there anything other than a burnt exhaust valve that can create this condition? I'm thinking not, but wanted to toss it around here before putting a major engine service on the to-do list.

Hey guys and gals. I have an original vinyl top on my 69 coupe in pretty amazing condition, but wondering what to do regarding care and maintenance? I have a bottle of apparently toxic Ford Vinyl Hardtop Cleaner And Reconditioner, C8AZ-19F535-A. The product appears to be fine, but I don't know whether it is safe to use on a 46 year old hunk of vinyl. Any thoughts or knowledge of this product, or recommendations of current products to use? My top has dulled out a good bit, and I'd like to bring back some luster.

I think I'm leaning more towards keeping the factory york compressor. Mine still spins, but there was corrosion inside the fittings when I got the car, and the condenser had fully corroded, so I'm not confident it's any good. I am unsure whether to convert to 134a though. I still have some r12; probably more than enough to fill the system twice, but I really don't want to waste it on a questionable compressor. Everything else is new or reconditioned already. Entire hvac box has been rebuilt, all vacuum hoses and switch replaced with correct color coded silicone stuff from a 70s maverick. Last piece of the puzzle is the compressor. It's been a multi-year project of throwing time and money at it.

Where can a rebuilt compressor be had for around $120? I've checked the local parts palaces, and they seem to run around $100 more.

Yep, all other suggested things have been or already were checked. The entire brake system is essentially new including steel lines and hoses. I've put a few trips on her already since adjusting the push rod, and no problems noted. The pushrod was adjusted long enough that it was pushing on the master as it was being installed. I don't know how these guys made a mistake like that, but they did. She's stopping good now.

Hi All, the problem turned out to be the booster push rod was adjusted too long. I had hoped that my professional installer would not have made a mistake like that, but that's life I guess. Car seems to be stopping good now. Thanks for the advice.

Bob, I haven't talked with them. In truth, I have found communicating with them to be a most frustrating chore. These guys don't seem to have a concept of a budget or of what's right and wrong. I don't think I want to go back even if it was their fault. I wish I felt differently, but the more I think back on this and previous dealings with them, the more strongly I feel I don't want to take my car there again.

The drum/drum brake distribution/proportioning valve was replaced with a brand new high quality repro disc/drums combo valve. I don't think that would be the problem in this case. I was going for a full on factory setup so as to avoid issues in the future.

Yes, rears are original drums, untouched during front disc conversion and were working properly before. I've been sitting around doing research for a couple hours, and it seems all evidence points to the pushrod being adjusted too long. I'm going to check it as soon as the weather is agreeable enough, which right now looks like Saturday.

I replaced the 2 leaking plugs, and 1 "extra" plug on the same side with rubber plugs. So far they seem to be working fine, but yeah, they don't give all too much confidence. I'm planning to pull the engine out hopefully next winter for a thorough cleaning, regasketing, painting, etc. I'll install all new brass plugs at that time. For now, I have the three extra rubber plugs just in case things get messy on the trip. Keeping my fingers crossed though!

Hi everyone, just thought I'd share my excitement, having realized that last week was the 20th anniversary of me bringing home my first Mustang, and likewise my first car; a 66 coupe. I no longer have that car, but have had a couple other Mustangs along the way, and now have had the 69 coupe "Metal Dragon" for about 7 years. To celebrate, my wife and I are leaving the cold state of Pennsylvania next week, and driving as far South as my pony will take us, and hopefully back again! Hoping to make Key West, or possibly drive west once we find better weather. Few plans, lots of gas, and probably some undesirable but required stops along the way! I can think of no better reason to turn the odometer, which is still working towards 71,000. Anyone have any thoughts for things to do along the 95 corridor, or anything Mustang-centric along the route??

Hey folks, I'm having a difficult time with my "new" brakes; 70 spindles on a 69. My car had power drum from the factory, so now it has power disc. Problem is the rears seem to be dragging more and more as I drive. The pedal also becomes harder and harder until it applies immediately upon being touched without hardly moving. Once it cools off for a while all is well again. I checked the rears yesterday, and found everything visually in good shape except one anchor pin was bent. Straightened it out, and backed out the adjustment slightly on both wheels. No leakage from cylinders, but I didn't take them apart to see the insides. The rear brakes were redone about 6 years ago, but the car has seen little use. I had the brakes installed by a Mustang specialty shop in Bensalem, Pa, along with all new brake lines, hoses, master, and a new correct proportioning valve. From the research I've done, it seems that the pushrod length is a likely culprit, but it could also be bad wheel cylinders? Again, I had this setup professionally installed, but that doesn't mean mistakes weren't made. I just need to be careful qith taking it back because these guys aren't cheap if it turns out to be additional work instead of a mistake on their part. Highway driving seems not to really effect it, but stop and go causes them to drag, slowly getting worse until I don't need the brakes to stop while parallel parking. Any thoughts? I'm supposed to be taking the car on a long road trip late next week, so I have to get this sorted out asap, as well as a few other bugs...

Thanks for the replies folks. I very much agree with the negative sentiment towards the rubber plugs, but I think I'm going to go that route for now since that seems to be the general concensus. I don't want to take a chance pulling the manifold. Just about everything I've touched so far has had some level of failure, and I haven't the time for a can of worms right now. I'm pretty sure I can get the old ones out, and sneak the rubber ones in with just removing the motor mount and lifting the engine with a jack and block of wood as mentioned. I hate using temporary fixes, as they often become more permanent than not. I'm getting closer to having a proper work place though, and a strong desire to refresh the engine. Perhaps next winter it'll get done right!

Mike, I wish I could just pop the engine out, but I'm at a severe disadvantage at the moment from a repair standpoint. I no longer own an engine hoist, and I only have a garage to work in for 2 days during after work hours. Can't afford to hire this one out cause I just got used and abused by a Mustang shop that didn't understand what "I have a budget, stop when you're getting near it and call me" meant, and sent me out with the plugs leaking and never said anything. Has anyone had any real problems with the rubber type? I do plan on pulling the engine at some point for a refresh, and can replace them then, but it's just not in the cards at the moment.

Hey all, I have 2 plugs leaking on the passenger side of my 302. Anyone have experience with whether it's possible to replace them with the engine still installed? I know I will have to temp support it and remove the motor mount, but wondering if it's possible to get leverage to install new ones? Alternatively, has anyone ever used the rubber compression style replacements? That's my second choice.

Haha, that's awesome! Thanks!

Where are you located? If you have an existing set, I do metal polishing and small part plating. Going to be on vacation until June 10th though. I'm in Philadelphia PA.

I think you're right. Most likely thing is someone else 45 years ago picked up some scrap, found it recognizable as I did, and made it part of the car. I like it because it adds human nature to something very industrial. I think I'll be leaving my dragon right where it is! As someone here suggested, I may make it my avatar, provided I ever have time to learn how, and then actually do it! First thing is first though... Gotta get the old girl spiffed up for new paint on Monday!