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Patriotgamez

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Posts posted by Patriotgamez


  1. Well getting closer. Racing the snow right now. Most of the car is back together. Have had some delays getting parts. But here are a couple of photos:

    DSC_7728-L.jpg

    DSC_7734-L.jpg

    DSC_7735-L.jpg

    DSC_7744-L.jpg

     

    List to-do's in no good order

    1.) Install Radiator

    2.) Fire Engine

    3.) Tune Engine

    4.) Install Emblems

    5.) Install window motors and switches

    6.) install lock servos and switches

    7.) Install Door Panels

    8.) Bold in seats & seat belts

    9.) Take 'r in for an alignment

    10.) Install Speakers

     

    Here's hoping...

     

    I'm digg'n your VW bus! Is it a 21 or 23 window?


  2. How do you get 427ci out of a stock 351w? Who makes the crank? Back when I stroked my 351w the max a/m crank was 393. My brother machined a Mopar crank to get 421ci. As others have said there is a lot of God stuff now from which to choose.

     

    Bob

    Quote from Keith Craft

     

    "There are several ways to build a 427C.I. stroker 351W engine. Will you use a stock block or aftermarket block. If you use stock block you have to use a 4.187 stroke with a 4.030 bore, with the aftermarket block you can go 4.125 stroke and a 4.000 stroke. The larger bore and the 4.000 stroke works great. We have built these with 10.75 compression that run on pump gas and make over 600HP with 575 to 600ft/bls torque. The main thing is how much do you want to spend. The stock block way I recommend a 408 or 410 or a 418 which has a 4.100 stroke. We just finished a 4.100 stroke 4.30 bore 351W for a customer that made 600HP and 575ft/bls torque. this engine was done with a __af_placement_id--[AFF-PLACEMENT-ID].html"]Ford Racing sportsman block, hydralic roller and will run on pump gas. This engine ran about 11,500.00 of the dyno. We do 408/410 stroker that make 525HP and 550ft/bls torque for about 5500.00. These 351W are the best buy going for performance for the dollar. Oh they will aslo turn 8000rpm's with a solid roller if that is what a guy wants. The pin does not go into the oil ring on any of these combinations and oil usage is not a problem. We have been doing these for over 10 years with great succes. Good luck, Keith Craft"


  3. If your considering Modern Driveline for the tranny they also make (in my opinion) the best Hydraulic Clutch system (TO Bearing style especially) to retrofit this Generation Mustang. A couple screws to mount the bracket to the firewall and actuator goes out the existing hole where the factory clutch linkage would normally go. Pricey, but will alleviate most of your fitment issues.


  4.  

    The video was a comparison of dual plane and single plane intakes, but when they tested the dual plane intakes (multiple models) they determined that milling the divider in the dual plane and/or adding a spacer resulted in better bottom end torque numbers. The test was on a SBC but I assume doing the same to a SBF would yield similar results...

     

    So milling my RPM Air Gap Intake for my 351W would make my very hungry cam happy but I would rather get some feedback...especially if somebody has already done this. Like I said before, I don't have the room to add a spacer and want to get the best numbers that I can for my combination.

     

    Not sure why the 302 intake came milled from the factory and the 351W did not? Must be a pretty good reason and is why I am hesitant to carve up a $475 piece of aluminum


  5. Has anyone milled the divider plenum on their 351W RPM air gap intake like the factory did on the RPM airgap Intake for the 302?

     

    yeah...I saw the carjunkie video and that is what prompted this inquiry (even though their test was on a 302)

     

    I know adding a square bore spacer would essentially allow crossflow between the plenums, but I don't have the clearance for that.

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