jerry69

If you want to gain some extra room with the seat where it is currenty... I tilted the back of the back rest forward and the two plastic stops that are screwed on the seat base I grinded down 50% and now with my back leaned back a bit I have all the room I need..... I'm 6'5" and 275 with a pot belly so the "stock" Mustang isn't really made for me.... You might grind down 25% to start and test and see if that's enough, if not grind more.... Only draw back is my wife is 5'3" and doesn't like the back part of the seat back so I'm looking into a way to make something that she could place over the 2 plastic pieces for height and back at normal.... maybe like 3 magnetic washers that would stick to the metal part of the seat... something like that..... It's the cheapest way to go...

OK I just want to make sure I'm correct so I order the correct rear drums.... Current brake shoes measure 1 3/4" wide... Current brake drum measured across the braking surface 10" X 2" So my brake drums are considered to be 10" X 2" and not 10' X 1 3/4" I'm doing mail order so I want to be 100% sure.... I was just having a brain lapse.... :helpsmilie: Thanks Jerry69

Nice to hear you got it going just in time for the summer cruise season...

No room in the back, maybe they could put you in the trunk ... LOL Just joking... How about calling and asking for a ride along ... Much cheaper !!!

Some coils have internal resistors which will cause problems with the Pertronix Ignitor. The Pertronix uses a points type coil, some coils can cause problems.... Best bet is to buy the flame thrower coil... using your old coil is a crap shoot and could be causing your problem.... Also there were 2 types of Ignitor kits depending on the vacuum advance or not.... Also make sure your not grounding to anything that would cause a short... sometimes that's a common problem and is over looked. I've installed a few but not on Fords and I've always reset the timing... you'll notice a big difference when you get it done and running.

I would say you need a new wiper switch, you could try and shoot some contact cleaner on the contacts and see if that helps. The contacts corrode and need to be cleaned up by squarting contact cleaner in and turning the switch back and forth... You can also use this with radio volume switch.... One other thing, do you have an aftermarket intake manifold on the engine, sometimes when people put new intakes on they forget to reinstall the ground strap from the intake to the firewall so the stuff like the wipers will work....check the ground strap for corrosion, if so take off, clean and reinstall....

After looking at the diagrams of both the single wire and two wire systems I see the wiring difference. The 2 wire is based on the sensor completing it's 12 volts + circuit and when the sensor closes the idiot light comes on.... The single wire is just the opposite, when the sensor closes with a problem the ground wire closes and completes it's circuit...... I won't play with the dash circuit board but I do have a cheap and better fix.... What I can do is buy a small plastic box 1" X 1" and inside the box install an LED and a small buzzer.....Since the sensor works from the "ground", I can run a fused 12 volts + direct to the LED and buzzer, then simply run a wire from the other side of the LED and buzzer to the sensor.... I haven't tested the sensor but just by looking at the diagram it should be (N/O) normally open, when a problem occours the sensor closes and completes the circuit, the buzzer and LED comes on..... The 1" X 1" plastic box could be placed anywhere with double sided tape, the wire could be thin 18 to 22 gauge wire....

I got this Proportioning valve and wondered since the 1969 Mustang has 2 wires that control the Brake Warning Light, is there a way to wire up a single input? If not does this plastic one come out and where could I pick up one that has 2 wires to install in it's place.... So far the wiring diagram shows it starting from the (PO) of the ignition switch to the proportioning valve then from the proportioning valve to the idiot light. Earlier years shows a single wire to the proportioning valve then the switch is grounded.... has anyone run into this ??? See pic below Thanks Jerry69

You can sell them on "Ebay", but Ebay charges a fee. Another site you can list items is "Craigslist", if free to post and there's no fees. Depending where your located, in California there's "Recycler" and it's free to post and no fees. If you just want to get rid of some items for free then there's "Freecycle", you just list it and give it away. All thats local listings, if you want nationwide try listing with "Hemmings" there is a fee to list.... You can also list on the "Classified" section here on 69 Stang, you can also list on other Mustang sites.

First download the 69 wiring diagram at http://midlife66.com/wiring/wiring.html and I'll be referirng to it.... It's kind of weird how this circuit works, but I'll start with the rear of the car and work forward.... Wiring harness and connectors are on the driver's side in the trunk. Look in the trunk for the following wires.... Green - With Orange stripe left stop light Orange - With Blue Stripe Right stop light Take your volt meter and with the brake pedal down + to either wire and other probe to ground. See if you have 12 volt + if not.... Next Both wires run from the brake lights to the connectors, then to the "Direction Signal & Hazard Switch Connector... All this on diagram (69Must) From the "Direction Signal & Hazard Switch Connector there's a wire that doesn't list a color but could be Green - With Red Stripe that wire goes to the headlight switch and the wire is connected with the Green - With Red Stripe and goes from the headlight switch to the Brake Light Switch in diagram (69Must2) from the Brake Light Switch there's a Green wire that goes back to the "Direction Signal & Hazard Connector" in diagram (69MUST).... There has to be 12+ on Green wire or the Green - With Red Stripe wire... if not I would look inside the "Direction Signal & Hazard" where the 12+ is and if there is then why is it not soing out on one of those 2 wires..... Let me know what you find....

First download the 69 wiring diagram at http://midlife66.com/wiring/wiring.html and I'll be referirng to it.... It's kind of weird how this circuit works, but I'll start with the rear of the car and work forward.... Wiring harness and connectors are on the driver's side in the trunk. Look in the trunk for the following wires.... Green - With Orange stripe left stop light Orange - With Blue Stripe Right stop light Take your volt meter and with the brake pedal down + to either wire and other probe to ground. See if you have 12 volt + if not.... Next Both wires run from the brake lights to the connectors, then to the "Direction Signal & Hazard Switch Connector... All this on diagram (69Must) From the "Direction Signal & Hazard Switch Connector there's a wire that doesn't list a color but could be Green - With Red Stripe that wire goes to the headlight switch and the wire is connected with the Green - With Red Stripe and goes from the headlight switch to the Brake Light Switch in diagram (69Must2) from the Brake Light Switch there's a Green wire that goes back to the "Direction Signal & Hazard Connector" in diagram (69MUST).... There has to be 12+ on Green wire or the Green - With Red Stripe wire... if not I would look inside the "Direction Signal & Hazard" where the 12+ is and if there is then why is it not soing out on one of those 2 wires..... Let me know what you find....

Sorry I can't help, I don't use the boxes, just the Pertronix Ignitor in the distributor. So close now... Come on guys lets get this solved.... Jerry

Sorry I can't help, I don't use the boxes, just the Pertronix Ignitor in the distributor. So close now... Come on guys lets get this solved.... Jerry

No don't touch anything with the instrument cluster.... What the diagram is showing is the white with red stripe wire goes to the oil pressure switch and the red wire with white stripe goes to the temperature sensor so it looks like it goes from the cluster to the switches and sensors not the ignition Both are on diagram (69must2) See if we can get so others to comment... Sometimes when a car manufacture makes a recall they will update their diagrams...so lets see if someone on site can give some input....

No don't touch anything with the instrument cluster.... What the diagram is showing is the white with red stripe wire goes to the oil pressure switch and the red wire with white stripe goes to the temperature sensor so it looks like it goes from the cluster to the switches and sensors not the ignition Both are on diagram (69must2) See if we can get so others to comment... Sometimes when a car manufacture makes a recall they will update their diagrams...so lets see if someone on site can give some input....

Try mike's69 ideal, you have to have voltage and resistance to test the gauge and that should do it...

Try mike's69 ideal, you have to have voltage and resistance to test the gauge and that should do it...

Hi James did you measure the fuel sending unit??? Set your volt/ohms meter to ohms and put one lead on where the wire attaches to the fuel sending unit and the other lead to ground or base of the round part of the sending unit.... 73 Ohms = Empty 10 Ohms = Full Just in case it's the sending unit and not the gauge......

Hi James did you measure the fuel sending unit??? Set your volt/ohms meter to ohms and put one lead on where the wire attaches to the fuel sending unit and the other lead to ground or base of the round part of the sending unit.... 73 Ohms = Empty 10 Ohms = Full Just in case it's the sending unit and not the gauge......

It shows temperature gauge, look at (69must2) diagram and look between the 2 breaker condensers and it looks like a light bulb shape.... follow that wire to (69must) diagram and it goes to the temperature gauge or idiot light... In other words it's the temperature sending unit wire on the engine.... the center of the sending unit is + and the threads of the sending unit is negative.....

It shows temperature gauge, look at (69must2) diagram and look between the 2 breaker condensers and it looks like a light bulb shape.... follow that wire to (69must) diagram and it goes to the temperature gauge or idiot light... In other words it's the temperature sending unit wire on the engine.... the center of the sending unit is + and the threads of the sending unit is negative.....

Here look at this information... http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=369&d=1151000988 And http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=370&d=1151001006 Note: After you glue the window in roll up the window just enough to to see if you line up with the quarter window , "But don't roll it up tight or the window will come out of the track on one side" If the window is to far forward you can pull it back a bit... then line up the top and front to see if they match up.... Make sure you push the window down hard into the track, look inside the door and make sure the window is set even in the track. You can also search this site under Window Glue and read a few threads. Just make sure when you get everything right keep the window rolled down at least 2 inches and allow it to dry over night or 24 hours.

Here look at this information... http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=369&d=1151000988 And http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=370&d=1151001006 Note: After you glue the window in roll up the window just enough to to see if you line up with the quarter window , "But don't roll it up tight or the window will come out of the track on one side" If the window is to far forward you can pull it back a bit... then line up the top and front to see if they match up.... Make sure you push the window down hard into the track, look inside the door and make sure the window is set even in the track. You can also search this site under Window Glue and read a few threads. Just make sure when you get everything right keep the window rolled down at least 2 inches and allow it to dry over night or 24 hours.

Here is a link to a site that you can down load the 69 Mustang wiring diagram for free if it's any better. http://midlife66.com/wiring/wiring.html It's a zip file and you can use "Windows Picture and Fax Viewer" to view and zoom in on the diagram at the bottom.... The only thing I might add with the post from 69RavenConv is # 2 Black-Blue wire, door switch (button) to courtesy light, door court light and pillar light See: bottom of diagram (69Must) good luck.

Here is a link to a site that you can down load the 69 Mustang wiring diagram for free if it's any better. http://midlife66.com/wiring/wiring.html It's a zip file and you can use "Windows Picture and Fax Viewer" to view and zoom in on the diagram at the bottom.... The only thing I might add with the post from 69RavenConv is # 2 Black-Blue wire, door switch (button) to courtesy light, door court light and pillar light See: bottom of diagram (69Must) good luck.