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Alan_Mac

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Posts posted by Alan_Mac

  1. Posted · Report reply

    3 hours ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

    At high engine RPM the PCV will not flow much so crankcase vapors also get pushed out through the breather.  That is normal operation on all cars since the advent of a PCV valve.  That is why crankcase breather filters use to get replaced as a normal tune-up item.  I have a pair of Scott Drake valve covers with a oil filler tube like shown in your picture.  They are ready for the garbage can.  They don't hold the filler cap on very well compared to twist on and the other type that push into a grommet.

    Connecting the breather cap to an air cleaner will only force crankcase vapors into the air cleaner at high RPM.  Then back into the motor instead of simply into the atmosphere.  It won't have any effect on how well the vented oil filler cap operates.  If you originally had that other vented oil filler cap Scott Drake offers, take a close look at it, the vent holes are tiny and probably will not flow enough air for motors like yours.  

    I tried many breather caps and at one time had one on each side using two driver side Branda high valve covers with tubes. I still have a new valve cover like this is anyone needs one.   They all popped up at high RPM.  This arrangement fixed my problem.  I expect there is enough vacuum in the air cleaner tube at WOT to aid in crankcase evacuation. 

  4. Posted · Report reply

    19 hours ago, MikeStang said:

    What difference does it make if the PCV goes to the air cleaner or to the carb really?

    Altho I do have my brake booster plumbed into the big fitting on the rear of carb and I was always told you should not T into the booster line for the PCV valve, but where else do you hook it besides the air cleaner...I think my air cleaner base has a provision for it but I'm sure I dont have the little fitting for it any longer.

    How does it even get any positive vac if hooked to the air cleaner tho...that's not a sealed enclosure?

    http://mewagner.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Hemmings-Muscle-Machine-Jan-2016-p64-67.pdf  Also the tech articles at M/E Wagner are a good read.  

  8. Posted · Report reply

    On 11/28/2018 at 7:48 AM, aslanefe said:

    Heater core is not for cooling the fluid but it is for getting the heat out of the fluid to heat the cabin. If there is air in the heater core, then less heat will be extracted. This may not be an issue for you in Cali but people who live in colder areas may like to get the most heat from their heater.

    Well I just found out that my 70 351w heater hoses are reversed.  HaHa they have been that way forever.   I don't see how this could affect anything.    

    418w.jpeg

  11. Posted · Report reply

    18 hours ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

    Maybe my question wasn't clear.  Not the first time for that.  I understand how the PCV and crank ventilation system operates, both open and closed systems.  The two vent holes inside the cap seem so small that it will restrict the amount of air flow the PCV is capable of moving.  That's why I was looking for a different cap.

    I also have this cap below.  The vent holes inside the top of the cap are much larger on the cap when compared to the other cap.  But, my preference would be to not have to run a hose to the air cleaner like this cap is setup for.  Mostly, because I only know of using 5/8" heater hose to connect it to the air cleaner.  That hose doesn't like to easily conform.  Is there some other hose for this that is more flexible than heater hose?

    Scott Drake C5ZZ-6766-B - Scott Drake Valve Cover Oil Caps

    I have an adjustable PCV installed with this cap.  Finally my crankcase is vented correctly as my cap stays in the fully seated position after WOT blasts.  The air cleaner connection provides a pressure drop to help vent the crankcase.   I recommend not to use a cap w/o the air cleaner connection. 

    418w.jpeg

  12. Posted · Report reply

    21 minutes ago, RPM said:

    To you fellas who have successfully performed this bit of magic, with which tools do you grab hold of the seal end protruding, or push the seal thru? All the kings horses couldn't accomplish this task at my place. 

    I replace a few of them successfully.  I am not sure what I used to push it far enough to grab it with either a needle nose or vice grip pliers. 

  13. Posted · Report reply

    You can install the rear main seal successfully without taking the FMX out.  I used felpro fluorelastomer 2 piece seals with no leaking on my 351w.  Apparently Felpro no longer makes it.  I would not use a rubber main seal.  I would use this  https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cgt-c5689/overview/make/ford 

    Like previously mentioned offset the edges by 1/4" . put a dab of suitable RTV  on the ends of the cap side seal.  No need for RTV anywhere else on the seals.  Make sure you install them in the correct orientation.     

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Pictures available upon request.  All parts in great condition, price OBO + shipping from 97008

    Auto Meter Street tach -  3.750 dia, white letters, orange pointer, black housing. similar to this  https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2300/overview/ $20

    1970 20 in. radiator shroud -  Ford NOS no AC  $15

    1970 mustang deluxe center console wood grain piece mounted on black console top for automatic $20 

    1970 Mach1 door panel wood grain pieces $20

    The club, steering wheel anti theft device.  - https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/the-club-the-original-club-steering-wheel-lock-and-vehicle-anti-theft-device-1000/6260000-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=6260000-P&adtype=pla_with_promotion&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq8SRwf2F3AIVCL3sCh3qkAw0EAQYAiABEgJbp_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds  $15

    Alan 

  18. Posted · Edited by Alan_Mac
    changed from glass to blade fuses     · Report reply

    On 8/13/2017 at 6:12 PM, Midlife said:

    Well, the wires won't burn up as the headlight circuit breaker will trip repeatedly using halogen bulbs.  It is best to use relays for the Halogens.  RCCI has a very slick set-up for plug-n-play headlight relays (http://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-hrk-all)

    Hi Midlife, I would like to add the rcci relays on my Scott drake headlights but have totally run out of post on my starter relay positive post.  Does anyone have a  safe solution to common all these positive wires in a neat and safe way?  I envision a common (6-10 circuit) terminal block with a plastic cover to protect the wire from accidental shorting.  edit, maybe this would work well? https://www.bluesea.com/products/5028/ST_Blade_Fuse_Block_-_6_Circuits_with_Cover 

     

  20. Posted · Report reply

    I have a performer RPM on my 418W with a shaker.  As a reference point, It is as tall as you can go with a shaker w/o lowering something.   Back when I built this motor, I had a 780.  I had it on a rear wheel dyno before and after a fairly mild runner flow balancing and size increase.   There was a very noticeable increase in power and the engine sounded louder, like it could breath better.  I think the Performer RPM is a great manifold that can be made even better with a little work. Alan  

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Quote

     

     

    On 3/23/2018 at 11:13 AM, fvike said:

    They point up and slightly to the rear in the 1969 Mustang Sales Brochure.

    http://mustangattitude.com/cgi-bin/brochuredisplay.cgi?year=1969&manuf=Ford&model=Mustang&smod=&page=6&scan=6

    Edit: Didn't realize the question was about '70 Mustangs. But yea, Like stangs-R-me says 2o'clock in the 1970 Sales Borchure.

    http://mustangattitude.com/cgi-bin/brochuredisplay.cgi?year=1970&manuf=Ford&model=Mustang&smod=&page=2&scan=2

    I will point them at 2:00 like the 70 brochure.  I vaguely remember this position.  Thanks to everyone for the input.  Alan     

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