Jump to content

cobra3073

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    270

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by cobra3073

  1. Posted · Report reply

    I also have that one it was in my 428 Cougar before I replaced it. It worked well just did not look right. I have 2 extra working radiators now....plus a couple of 20" ones....

    When using that radiator, did you have an "issue" with finding radiator brackets that would work without modification?

     

    I had understood that "Mustang Depot" had them but they are on backorder with an approximate six week ETA. The "stock" brackets will not fit without modifications as the radiator is actually wider at the top and bottom. It looks like I will have to do some modifications unless I can find the correct ones.

     

    BT

  5. Posted · Report reply

    You ripper, looks fantastic! A lot of drooling going on here! ha

     

    I'm building up 69 428CJ as well and have been trying to figure out what to do with the cluster to get a working speedo as I'm installing a TR6060 trans. I'll look into what you have done, they look great.

     

    A heads up though on that intake, if you have a shaker hood, the shaker will not align with the Performer. It sits it way back and at an angle. I've since purchased a Blue Thunder MR intake for mine. All yet to be fitted though but it lines it up.

    Yes, I did a LOT of research on this and noted there was quite a bit of contradictory information on the Net as to whether or not the Performer RPM would fit or not.

     

    It appears a lot of the information relative to the RPM not fitting came about as a result of web searches on the FE forum where even Jay Brown mentioned at one time that the RPM would not fit.  In his book, "The Great FE Intake Comparo", Page 77, he has backed away from this blanket statement by noting:

     

    '...One design difference of note that should be considered when using this intake (Performer RPM) on a shaker hood equipped vehicle is that the carburetor is set back a little further on this intake than it is on the factory intakes. The distance is fairly small, only 5/8" or so, but installation of this intake may cause the hood to interfere with the shaker hood scoop when the hood is closed,  It is likely that an adjustment to the shaker hood scoop's position on the air cleaner may render this a non-issue, but each installation will have to be evaluated individually."

     

    Lucky for me, a buddy of mine is doing his '70 428SCJ at the same shop.  He is also using the Performer RPM and we were able to mock it up and determine the fit is not a problem.  The hood scoop seal on the shaker has quire a bit of adjustment available.

     

    Additionally, the shop owner assured me he has done quite a few of these without having any real issues with fitment of the Perfomer RPM when utilizing the shaker hood.

     

    At any rate, I will know in a couple of weeks and will post up the results.

     

    BT

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Looking real nice! Damn, I just love the FE.

    Yes I do too but Love the LIMA more! I can hardly wait to finish this one up and install this one:

     

    429SCJ bored and stroked to 545...Dynoed at 706HP and 736 FP Torque - - Going into the '73 Mach 1 which previously held the '69 428CJ

     

    post-16376-0-30586600-1456616076.jpg

     

     

    post-16376-0-01993200-1456616121.jpg

     

    I will then go to work on my 2003 Marauder

     

    ...so many toys!

     

    BT

  11. Posted · Report reply

    With that connector from eBay you will still need a power wire, and a 175amp mega fues.

     

    Edit, NOTE, the amp rating of the fues is really dependant on your max current draw, and the size wire you use for connecting the alt to the battery.

    Yes, I was aware of the need for the power wire and mega fuse.

     

    I am still investigating options.

     

    Thanks for the feedback.

     

    BT

  12. Posted · Report reply

    I am using a Tuff Stuff silver bullet alternator I bought from Summit. The silver bullet version includes a nice v-belt billet aluminum pulley. It is billed as a hybrid case...GM case with Ford mounting ears.  I had to clock the alt, but it has worked great.

    Yes, I was looking at that one as a "possibility."

     

    What did you do about the harness? That unit did not come with the harness did it? I was looking at this one:

     

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/171981074940?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

     

    Thanks!

     

    BT

  14. Posted · Report reply

    For those of you running 3G (Ford) alternators with V-Belts, I am curious as to what pulleys you are using?

     

    I am getting close to installing my 428CJ motor into my '69 Mach 1 and have a number of additions which will require a 3G in my estimation. I am looking at acquiring a '95 Mustang alternator and changing the pulley to a V-Belt.

     

    I would appreciate any inputs to ensure I am not missing something.

     

    Thanks!

     

    BT

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks, Bob!

     

    I actually have been here all along; I just have not been posting up on my progress with the '69.

     

    Initially, I was just going to pull the 428CJ from the '73 and transplant it into the '69 but as all you probably know, this "sickness" has a tendency to make you go above and beyond.  I finally decided that I would just build an "updated" 428SCJ themed car.  Hence the reason for going with the staggered shocks and re-enforced shock towers.  The "update" comes in the form of the gauges, AC, stereo system and a bit hotter mechanical camshaft than what came in the original 428SCJs.

     

    It helps that a friend of mine is having his original '70 428SCJ restored at the same shop.  Since his car is so rare, he is trying to keep it original and that helps me in making my '69 "better", in my estimation.

     

    Here is a picture of the 428CJ as it was pulled from the '73.

     

    post-16376-0-51651600-1455556198.jpg

     

    Here is a picture of the shortblock after return from the machine shop

     

    post-16376-0-37408100-1455556296.jpg

     

    Plans for this week is to finishing putting the motor together and perhaps installing it in the next week or so.

     

    BT

     

     

  19. Posted · Report reply

    It has been a couple of years since I updated y'all on my progress. LOL

     

    I will now start trying to provide regular updates as I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.  So far, the major actions have been::

     

    1.  added TCP subframe connectors, staggered shocks, re-enforced the shock towers, added Addco 1 1/8"  (on front) and 3/4" (on rear) sway bars, 31 spline 3:91 Traction Lok rear end and axles, KYB GR2 front and rear shocks, and big block front springs.

     

    2. installed Dakota Digital VLC-69F and VLC gauges, Corso Feruce Steering Wheel, Autosound Model Two sound system, Vintage Air 951170 AC, an original fold down rear seat, repop door panels, original tooled dash pad, ACC Essex Mass carpets.

     

    3. Upgraded the cast iron tail shaft C6 with a Broader rebuild kit.

     

    4,  Pulled the 428CJ from the '73 Mach 1 and had it machined for -030 forged Sealed Power pistons, switched out the Comp 294S cam for a Comp 282S and freshed up the heads to include adding hardened valve seats.

     

    5. Paint job (Raven Black) has been completed.  Still have to add hood and fenders.  Will do that after I installed the motor.

     

    Here are a couple of photographs. The first one is what I started with.

     

    post-16376-0-73163400-1455492129.jpg

     

    This is after paint.

     

    post-16376-0-36842700-1455492204.jpg

     

    This is a shot of the Dakota gauges

     

    post-16376-0-44625800-1455492296.jpg

     

    Some interior shots:

     

    post-16376-0-22439600-1455492800.jpg

     

    post-16376-0-98954300-1455492831.jpg

     

     

     

    BT

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Yes, Mach 1 Driver, that probably would work out nicely.

     

    How far along are you in the process of possibly using the Quik Latches?  I am still about a month or so out on my resto-mod as it relates to modifying my hood for the pins or latches.

     

    If you "get there" before me, I would be interested in seeing what you finally decided to do. Please don't hesitate to share.

     

    BT

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Yep, the photographs DEFINITELY clears up the issue in my mind.

     

    I can now see what you mean now about there (possibly) not being enough room between the hood and the radiator support for the latches. I am thinking it might be possible to make some other type of modification to the radiator support to make them work...will have to lake a look at mine when I get over to the shop again.

     

    GREAT posting!

     

    BT

  22. Posted · Report reply

    I am trying to wrap my head around what would have to be done to use the latches based on your narrative but am having difficulty, 

     

    My mach 1 is at the Restorer and we acquired a new hood (without the holes) that is going to have the holes put in it for the hood pins so I am sort of starting with a clean slate.

     

    Is the issue with the "Quik Latches" related to the location of the stock hole in the radiator support or the location of the holes in the stock hood or something else? 

     

    You are right, a picture is worth a thousand words!  LOL

     

    BT

  23. Posted · Report reply

    As I am sure you are aware, there were a LOT of these engines produced across the Ford lines. It is not as if they are rare.

     

    I would suggest that a great deal would have to do with the condition of the engine (and not trying to be "funny") and what someone is willing to pay for it. There are so many folks offering Windsor-based small blocks as complete engines or short blocks that I wouldn't think an original 351W would be worth very much in most parts of the country.

     

    Now a days, it is a LOT cheaper (in most instances) just to order a crate motor unless one is building it themselves. That, of course, would be different if someone is trying to restore a "number matching" vehicle for some reason.

     

    JMHO.

     

    BT

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Contrary to some of the data on the "Net", I am pretty sure the 351W did not come in the 1972 Mustang.

     

    Everything I have seen "eyes on" or gleaned from authoritative publications, i.e. Hollander Interchange Manuals and Kevin Marti's books show only 351C motors as being originally installed in the '72 Mustangs.

     

    I do not believe this block is originally from a Grande. It could be from any number of Ford or Mercury vehicles.

     

    ...and Yes, Ford blocks since around 1970 do "generally" have a partial VIN on the back of the block.

     

    BT

    purple69 reacted to this
×
×
  • Create New...