1957pistol
-
Content Count
31 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by 1957pistol
-
-
no. there was an earlier post on an 8 point cage. lol. although, you can post them if you would like. we all like pictures.
-
5-600 for the entire interior? that seems really, really low. i would guess just the interior components for the doors in my mach one cost about that much.Coupe vs fastback. Door panels were 69$ seat covers were 179$ headliner was 39$ carpet was 99$
Pics would be great
-
The more I think about it, the more I realize I should probably just pay the money and put in a new one. The car is in the beginning stages and I am replacing the entire interior for pennies compared to past builds. I can buy the entire interior for 5-600 compared to the 2500 I spent on my 57 chev car. I'll just wait until it goes on sale and buy the pad.
I've also been contemplating putting a half cage in. If I did, I would be making it myself. Anyone have any pictures of a half over stock interior?
-
Wondering if anyone has any experience with the dash pad covers. My dash is in overall great shape but has two cracks in it. At about $125 difference, are the dash pad covers worth it or is it easier and better to just replace the whole pad.
I realize for a perfect show car the pad is the better way. Mine is going to be a "better than average driver". Just looking for a realistic standpoint from someone with experience.
thanks
-
I think xzibit and the guys at pimp my ride may have made that rather large hood scoop..I am still looking at the interior for the blender, curling iron, and iguana tank....
-
I was looking at the street pro cat back system. I think the money saved vs the magnaflow would be better used somewhere else. Maybe if I was expecting 4-500hp out of my 351w it would be different.
-
So I'm looking at all the different exhaust choices. Anyone ever used Pypes? For the money I don't think I can do any better.
Sound? Performance?
-
Clinton County. Way up north.
-
Did you see the parts list I left for you on the IFS question? If you were only a little closer I could show you how I did mine.
-
This kit uses the same method as above with a fabricated piece to the shock tower to connect it. It would be easy enough to fab a piece of plate steel (or get creative with some round stock) along the inside of the fender up to the shock tower, a bend/weld and bolt it in place.
-
$299
$109
$239
springs $80-100
shocks $50-100
$349
$125
So $1200-1300 and those were just the first ones I picked off of ebay. Clean and high heat paint (or powder coat if you can) all your parts (minus the crossmember) before you install. Eastwood Chassis black on the frame and crossmember. Good luck.
-
sorry, that should be mig or tig, meaning stick will get i done but its a lot easier and cleaner w/ a mig or tig.
-
Can you weld and do you have a mig/tig that can weld up to 3/16" steel? If not, the bolt on kit will probably save you money vs. paying a shop to weld in the crossmember. I haven't installed one on a mustang but a frame (unibody or full) is still a frame. I bought a helix kit for my 57 chevy pickup and other than measuring 37 times and cutting once, it is pretty straight forward. It looks like a lot bigger job than it really is. The only hard part is getting the crossmember welded in place.
Also, these kits are pretty generic. They all say vehicle specific but they are all designed around a mustang II platform. The crossmember for a 69 mustang is the same (before YOU cut it for the frame) as the one they have for a 32 ford. If you can weld and know what you want out of an IFS kit, you can probably save yourself $500+ by ordering a crossmember and putting the parts together for yourself.
-
I have used dynomat in a 63 fairlane. It was easy to install with the small roller. It's not really messy but if you get the black "goo" on you or your clothing it doesn't come off easy. If you apply it over holes or gaps it "melts" and sags. If it sags here in NY summers imagine what OK summers will do to it. Its also a lot of cutting and fitting to get it perfect. I plan on buying some lizard skin for my coupe. Since I will be putting in a new floor and it is going to be a road and show (more road than show and not original) I want to do both sides of the new floor before it goes in leaving a few inches around the edges for weld heat. Once its in (in theory) just continue painting it on. As well as inside the doors and quarters (another thing dynomat doesn't do well).
-
I wish I had someone close to make a mold of them..80$ for cheapo fiberglass. now there's an idea..
Anybody have the dimensions? Maybe I can tackle this one. I have some cf and epoxy hanging around. This might be a good project. Height, length, width at the ends and in the middle and the middle crease.
thanks.
-
The shelby Conv scoops are growing on me..we'll see.
-
sorry, it is 99-04, not sure what I was thinking. The ones I have are from a 01. They seem to fit the body lines pretty well. Just wondering if it has been done. The fastback has side scoops, the coupes look like the scoops were a mistake or afterthought gone wrong.
-
Sorry if this has been covered. Unfortunantly if you type in side scoops it gives you 9000 hits.
I just picked up a nice set of 94-04 GT side scoops. Wondering if anyone has molded a pair of these into their coupe?
If so, any help expecially pictures would be handy. It doesn't look to extreme if you don't mind cutting into the quarter to recess the bigger scoops.
Yays? Nays? What do you think? I know the Shelby conv scoops will go on to dress up the nasty apparent afterthought originals, but its not really the way I want to go with it.
thanks
:gunsmilie:
-
depending on the size of the crack and where, JB weld fixes pot metal the best. It takes time (use the real stuff and not the 5hr putty) and multiple layers, but I had the entire front lip missing and I rebuilt it with JB. when it hardens it is technically stronger than the pot metal its on.
-
I was under the (apparently wrong) impression that you couldn't squeeze the new wheels under. Did you have to trim the fender well. Are they the 20x8.5 and 20x10? What size tire are you running? thanks
-
I have a rear bumper if you are interested make me an offer it has no rust but was primered to keep it from rusting no dents at all and it is original. I might have the brackets too i will have to look. I am located in paThink you could give me an idea on shipping first? I'm at 12962. We are in binghampton NY every couple of months. Where in PA?
-
Looking for parts vs. buying repops
I would rather have clean originals but if someone had new laying around and the price was right I wouldn't be opposed.
69 coupe:
Dash
Front driver fender
If it were clean and cheap a front pass fender.
Trunk Lid
Rear bumper (will be painted so chrome doesn't matter)
Rear bumper mounting brackets
Full floor section
I'm located in Upstate NY (the real upstate, not that albany business) so the closer the better.
thanks
-
I bit the bullet and started seperating the spot welds and cutting today. I am going to slice a 8" (or so) piece from the lip to above the curve and about 18" wide. No better metal than new metal. I like the look of the original vs. the shelby. The shelby kickup is nice just not for what I'm going for. Thanks all, and if I destroy it, I'll be on the prowl for a new one. (-;
-
64-70 coupe & fastback front floor pans
in Parts for Sale / Wanted
Posted · Report reply
I have a SET (left and right) of full length front floor pans that I don't need. They are brand new and in the weld thru primer. Seat risers not included. I can email a picture or more info if needed.
$80+$30 shipping in the continental US firm on price as these were $68 each shipped.
Can be picked up in upstate NY