jeepcj7304

after a little more checking I found that I have continuity to about 5 inches before it goes through the firewall on the red w/blue line off the S terminal. Then when I check it at the switch I do not have continuity. Does this wire go through a fuse or relay at all?

Ok next problem now that I at least think the alt wiring is fixed I went to start the fresh motor and nothing. If I put power to the S terminal of the starter solenoid it fires right up. Obviously I screwed something up any idea where it could have been only touched the wiring right at the alternator, regulator, and starter relay.

Yes the pulleys are black along with the alternator. I will hopefully find time today to get those on. I am trying to finish the wiring first and thanks to the help of people on here I think I got it straight now. I am also looking at this air cleaner. http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/ford-racing-m-9600-k302/?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adword&utm_content=pla&gclid=CIKymfmY4LICFUqi4AodhwEAog

Best bang for your buck for sound quality is a cheap set of turbo mufflers from your local parts store. Put them on and run them until you can afford to trade up to a V8.

Where does it plug into mine is just cut. Only three wires are going to the regulator. Also the orange off the alternator hours nowhere.

This is the distributor I am running it is a small cap HEI I believe.

now that the motor is bolted in I am working on getting this wiring straight. Any one know what this resistor is for? It was bolted to the fender beside the voltage regulator. From the wiring Diagram I found on the web it appears to be A radio suppression condenser. Is this correct and do I need it? If so where does it connect to? The second picture is of some sort of connection block I assume. The one edge you can see is just frayed wire that was bolted to the firewall as a ground obviously not a good one. Can I eliminate this and just connect all the wires direct. If so where does this ground originate. Thanks in advance.

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I just wish they would carb both and not use the windsors fuel injection. I think it is going to make a big difference

Well my motor was finished yesterday it was running on the bench when I got their sounded great. Got it home and around 9pm got started putting it in. It was me and my wife since it is going to her car she wants to ave hands on. So what a pain in the ass not her just getting the engine in. I didn't want to scratch any of the fresh paint or anything else. Getting the right angle on the crane and chains and tranny still bolted to the car was really starting to piss me off after a while. But that is how it usually goes "for me at least" with putting engines in not already bolted to the trans. Any way so its in. Still needs all the pulleys, manifolds, alternator and wiring hooked up. Then we can start it again and make sure all the wiring is good and get the wires cleaned up and routed correctly. Here are a few engine pictures of where we are now I will add more when it gets done.

very nice I am surprised with you saying your running a stock suspension and hooking up that good.

what motor are you running in that?

The new engine should be ready tommorow. My question is the FMX trans is still installed. Should I remove it and bolt it to the engine and install them both together or just install the motor. My concern is that I have never worked on a trans that had studs on the converter mine have all had bolts that go in. Is it hard to line up the studs on the converter while installing the engine or is there still space so that this can be done after the engine is bolted to the trans? It will be alot easier to get the engine in with out the heavy FMX hanging off the back and will also save me the time of unhooking the trans from the car.

yes as you can see in my pictures the bracket has a large gap between the part where the headlight bolts to it and the bucket. I am not sure how to make up that space.

Here is the part that I am trying to mount right now you can see that the bracket doesnt come close to lining up.

I am looking to source the trim or molding that goes around the rear window of a coupe it is black and I think it is hard plastic or medal. I have it but I would like to get knew.

I am looking to see if anyone has access to a manual on how to assemble the front end (headlight buckets, fenders, valance, front trim, bumper, etc) I am trying to put the front end of my project together to get it ready for paint but need to know how some of the pieces go. For example there is a L bracket bolted to the radiator support that appears to go to the headlight buckets but I dont think they are in right since they are almost an inch from the bucket mounting point and is in the middle of the headlight area. If someone has one and scan them it would be a great help.

Yes the motor issue sucks but it is going to be much better in the end. I am now trying to get the front headlight buckets, valance and everything on the front mocked up before paint what a pain in the ass previous owner lost all the mounting hardware and everything is out of alignment.

I ran into some issues with my "score" of a motor. I was told when I purchased the project that the motor was a 70's 351 W with only 15k miles on it since a rebuild. I pulled the valve cover this week and found this. So I knew it was B.S. about the rebuild the motor looks like it has 150k and only 3 oil changes ever. I knew the motor even though it runs and sounds fine was working on borrowed time. I immediately began weighing my options. I ended up looking at a couple engines that thanks to the people on this site I did not buy. One ended up being a 351M-400 and the other was a 390 and I was unaware that they both would have required major modification to fit in my 69 coupe. I found a friend of a friend who comes to find out builds Ford engines. He is old school and has been doing this since the 60's. He buys and trades engines and components to build a selection. Anyway I decided on a 94 block 351W roller motor. It is completely rebuilt with new crank, pistons, bearings, oil pump, water pump, oil pan, timing chain/gear, and cover. I matched that with a set of GT40 heads which are also completely rebuilt with a 3 angle valve job and roller rockers. I topped it with a Holley street deliminator intake and an edelbrock 750 carb. The engine will be completely assembled and already had the brake in time completed and will be turn key. He also will have it done by this weekend. I just need to install my pulleys, and alternator and drop it in. The price out the door complete with wires, fuel pump, and dizzy was 2700. I will have pictures of that soon he is still waiting on a few seals and such.

Just a few more of the brakes.

Ok its been a long week I installed the front disc brake conversion I purchased on Ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/370577132030?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 I would definitely recommend this to someone the kit was complete from master cylinder, new lines, slotted rotors, and 4 piston calipers. It looks sharp and went together fairly simple. I am glad to be rid of those huge drums from the front. The rear brakes were overhauled and new parking brake cables installed.

I am trying to register my coupe as a classic and need to send 4 pictures one front, back, left and right side. I am unable to do this because it wont be ready for paint for a few more weeks. I want to get the registration going because it takes several months. If anyone can get me some pictures I would appreciate it. I have searched the web but everyone I find is a fastback.

Already have the carb just got it yesterday thanks anyway

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I finally made a decision. it is a 94 roller block is completely rebuilt with new crank bearings and. Correct timing chain cover. matched with a set of Gt 40 heads with Ford Motorsports roller rockers. I went with the Holly intake based on its price. it will be topped off with a edelbrock 700 carb. it will have 82 points new distributor new fuel pump and fuel lines. basicall I need to put my pulleys alternato r and high profile valve covers and I'm good.