Klutch
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Posts posted by Klutch
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it appeared most had no idea what they were looking at which surprised me. the old cars are certainly diminishing at all shows i go to as well. are they all hiding in garages or are the numbers of enthusiasts really reducing?I think most people are considering their classic cars as investments they must protect. So, they don't drive them or take them to shows lest they not fetch top dollar at the auction.
A friend of mine bought a brand new 2011 GT500. He used to drive it all the time and really enjoyed it. Then all the guys on the Shelby forums were calling him crazy for putting miles on his "investment". Now he never drives the car. It's a shame. Tomorrow is not guaranteed. We must enjoy our days, as well as our cars, while we can.
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It would sure be nice to see this car at the Rocky Mountain Mustang Roundup next June. Any chance you would venture that far, Buckeye? It's a great time: Mountain tour, autocross and show in Steamboat Springs, Co. They just started an MCA judging as well. It's a beautiful area and the town LOVES to host the Mustangs.
The only downside is every year we see fewer classic Mustangs and more late model Mustangs. All the more reason your Mach 1 would be appreciated.
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Very sharp car! Thanks for sharing.
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Wow to the tenth power! You've built an amazing street machine. It's like a Mustang supercar.
Thanks for sharing the video. And thanks again for sharing the details and process of your build. I've learned a lot from you and I hope to keep learning as I go back and review over and over again.
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steering feels good. drives straight, doesn't wander. that surprised me as i did my own alignment.225 radials, roller idler, 16:1 gearbox, caster set to around 2.5 (can't quite remember).
it seems to get easier to steer everytime i took it out. i'm not sure if the parts are just working in or it's just me adjusting to the car.
i would always prefer power steering. on this particular car, i just don't want to look at those components.
Thanks for the input.
I still haven't decided. When I'm ready to assemble the front suspension, I will talk to Dan at Chockostang and get the details about what components I'll need and how much it will cost. But good to know about the roller idler. I'll be sure pick up one of those.
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Buckeye,
Now that you've had your car on the street a little, can you please give me your impression of the steering? It appears you do not have power assist.
My '70 Mach 1 does not have power steering. I was sure I would add it during my build. But now I'm not so certain. Although the steering was simply awful when I got the car, every component was worn out. I'm thinking it might be OK if everything was new and well lubed.
Thanks in advance.
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i applied three coats of Spectrum to the inner side of the outer quarter.i put dynamat extreme (thin butyl backed damper) on the opening of that quarter area as shown below. it's really not doing anything at that location as a mass damper since there really is no metal there. i'm instead using it to replace the factory plastic as a watershield. i topped it with some adhesive and insulation i picked up from NPD. The kit i purchased for the floors didn't cover the inner quarter area so i picked up a 4X6 sheet of insulation from NPD for about $40 to use for those extra spots.
Excellent. Once again, I hope to emulate your solution here. Thanks.
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Looking good as always, Buckeye.
What type of insulation is that on either side of the rear seat? It does not appear to be Dynamat.
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sa-weet! How many cubes with a 4.5" stroke take you to?
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I could, but those are not Ford tooling hoods. And again, I've heard horror stories about how these hoods fit. Or, rather how they don't fit.
It's a real hassle to order a hood, pay shipping, put in on, find out it doesn't fit, contact the vendor, arrange for a return, and then pay shipping to return it. I'd rather pay extra for a hood that's more likely to fit. And that would be a Ford tooling hood.
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Buckeye, you're a born engineer. Very nice test with a very nice video.
And your Mach 1 sure sounds nice and snotty! I like how you checked the interior, abeit without the window glass. I think it's a good thing that things still get pretty quiet inside. Cars that are loud inside are cool for about four minutes. Then it just gets exhausting.
Please keep the updates coming. I for one am very interested in any and all progress on your project.
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Ran by the machine shop after work and picked up a 351W block to mock up with. This paticular model has a special vented cylinder wall, custom made. Paid the scrap price for it, a lot cheeper than buying one of those plastic blocks that I might not ever use agean. At least when I am done with this, I can get my $25.00 out of it, or at least most of it. Gota get some motor mounts, and my buddy's TKO to see how much trimming needs to be done to the trans brace, and possibly the new 1pc floor pan. The price to pay, when you use after market drive lines.Nice window in that cylinder.
I'll be paying close attention to your TKO mockup. I'd like to put the same trans in my Mach 1. I'm willing to do a little cutting and patching on the tunnel to make the trans line up properly, instead of arcing it down at the rear. I've heard that will make the shaker fit wonky.
I'm also wondering if I modify the trans tunnel, would it prevent the console from fitting correctly?
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I'm glad to see a build using a Cleveland and a Shaker, I will be paying close attention. Interested on your cam profile and wanted to know what heads you have 4V or 2V, what Intake & carb will you use.Advise I was given on the motor rebuild is:
(1) The Cleveland valves drop their valve heads. Install replacement stainless valves.
(2) The rod rod nuts pull their threads. Install ARP nuts.
(3) The oem crankshaft damper was un-bonded, the rubber is now 40 years old, hopefully it was replaced with something worthy, if not, chuck the old damper and install a Romac 0203.
Keep up the good work!
I hear you!
I'm running Australian heads. Those have 2V ports and closed combustion chambers. (Some people call them "3V" heads.) I bought the heads fully assembled and fresh from a machine shop. They had already been machined for screw-in, adjustable rocker studs with Boss 302 pushrod guides. I would have went with 4V heads. But those don't do so well here at high altitude. The extra compression from the extra-small combustion chambers also helps at high altitude.
I took the heads to my machinist who told me they had an "Internet Job". He said the exhaust valves were new, but the intake valves were shot. So, I'll be getting all new intake valves. I'm also having him clean up the ports and combustion chambers a bit. Not really porting, just getting the really rough stuff removed.
My balancer is in surprisingly good shape. But those balancers weren't that great when they were new. I'm goin with an aftermarket balancer. My machinist is ordering it. He's going to also balance the entire rotating assembly, to include the flywheel. I'm not sure how this is done, but he said he puts it on a machine that actually spins the parts and he works with it until it's all perfectly balanced.
I'm also having ARP rod bolts and nuts installed. I asked for just new rod nuts. But my machinist said it was only a few more dollars to replace the bolts as well and he highly recommended it.
Right now I'm planning to run a Quick Fuel carb; something with a choke and annular boosters. I haven't talked to Quick Fuel yet. But I will call them and ask what they recommend.
You can see the cam profile at the bottom of post #84.
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While my car was at the shop, I decided to sand down my hood to see what was under all that primer and body filler. Good golly, what a mess!
I don't know what tragedy my hood endured, but it wasn't pretty.
So, I'm not sure what to do here. I suppose I could weld up the nose and make it look better, then put it on Craigslist to see if anyone wants to save it. I could sell it for scrap. I could hang it in my garage as a decoration.
I will likely order a reproduction, Ford Tooling hood. Although there's no such hood available with 1970 hood latch holes pre-cut, there are such hoods with 1969 hood pin holes cut. Maybe that would be a good option.
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In other news, I disassembled my 351 Cleveland and took it to a local machine shop. I had wanted forged pistons. My machinist said he had a hard time finding the right sized forged pistons. And when he did, they were very expensive. He found a very nice Speed Pro rebuild kit with hypereutectic pistons. I went with that. (Those pistons sure are pretty!)Since I'm not going to run a blower or nitrous, those will be fine.
My engine will be for street performance. I'll likely take it on a fun run down the drag strip or through an autocross course occasionally. Otherwise, my Mach 1 will be for local cruising and trips through the local mountains.
I was pleasantly surprised to learn the crank had never been machined and a new flywheel was installed during the last rebuild. The crank will be machined .010. No stroker kit this go-'round. I called Modern Driveline and they said I can use my flywheel with a new 5-speed manual. (I haven't yet decided which 5-speed I'm going with. I'm open to suggestions.)
For a cam, I called Bullet. Those guys are great! They guy I spoke with took a lot of time to answer my questions and ask what I wanted. Surprisingly, he strongly recommended a solid flat tappet cam. He asked if I opposed to running a SFT cam. When I told him I actually liked the old school "Rat-A-Tat-Tat" of SFT cams, he said that was great. He also told me with a SFT, I can change the lash and change the way the cam performs. I'm sure this is common knowledge in the cam world, but I didn't know this.
I also asked the Bullet rep about running a roller cam. He said for my purposes, a roller cam wouldn't do anything for me, but it would cost a lot more money. Interesting. (And this agrees with a lot of what I'm seeing about roller cams doing online research. They're great cams and it's nice not having to worry about break-in or running ZDDP oil. But unless you're winding your engine very high, a flat tappet cam can perform just as well.) The Bullet rep also said I was the complete opposite of most people. He said almost everyone else insists on a hydraulic cam and they just want a choppy idle. (What's up with that?) I told him I didn't mind a choppy idle, but otherwise didn't care.
Anyway, if you need a cam, I highly recommend calling Bullet. I really liked the fact that the guy who answered the phone was the guy who spec'd my cam. He said it would take him a couple of weeks to grind my cam due to a current back up. That's fine with me. But if you're in a hurry, Bullet may not be your best bet.
I'm also waiting for my machinist to give the installed height of the valves. I must then give this information to Bullet so they can send me the right valve springs.
Cam specs are:
238/248 @.050
.558 intake lift, .580 exhaust lift
112 separation
CL 108
Apparently, Bullet uses an "assymetrical lobe" grind which means their cam will perform a bit differently than others with similar specs. Also be aware a Cleveland cam profile is a bit unique and my cam is also designed to operate at high altitude. (I live over 6,000 feet above sea level.)
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Not much has happened on my Mach 1 project since the last update. I patched some small rusted areas around the car. The big things necessary were the roof pillar and the lower right quarter panel. I wasn't sure if I wanted to tackle those myself.
Lucky for me, the proverbial "friend of a friend" network came through. I was able to get my Mustang into a shop owned by a local retired racer who also does body work. He's a super nice guy and agreed to make room for my car among his many other projects.
Here's a shot of the roof pillar as he was finishing it up.
And my friend graciously asked him if he would install a quarter panel patch and fix the area below the rear window while he was at it. Yay!
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That is extremely helpful. Thanks again, Buckeye.
Dude, you're like the Tom Scholz of project cars. You're both from Ohio, you're both engineers, you both do amazing things, you do them at home and you both rock!
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^^ Wow, that deck lid looks fabulous.
Thanks so much for taking the time to answer my questions. I sincerely appreciate this and all that you've shared with your build thread.
Can you reveal the brand of your paint guns? My brother was a body man many years ago and he used a DeVilbiss gun. (He lives in another state. Maybe I'll fly him in to paint my car.) I don't mind spending big on a nice paint gun if it will make the spraying easier and better. I'd even spring for a Tekna Copper. But I wouldn't want to spend big on a gun that was just name brand hype.
And if you can post up some pics of your sanding/buffing process, that would be great. I'm sure I'm not the only one champing at the bit for more Buckeye build pics.
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Hiya, Buckeye. Hope you are hanging tough through the Ohio winter.
I wanted to ask you some questions about your painting process. After talking to lots of people about getting my car painted, I'm considering doing it myself. I've just seen way too many "professional" paint jobs that were lackluster or downright lousy.
- Did you use a book are some other reference for setting up your home spray booth? I was very impressed with you how you did it and thought I could find some details in a book, or something.
- Did you do any color sanding or buffing? Based on the oustanding finish you achieved, I assumed you sanded and buffed. But I don't recall seeing any mention of this.
- How large is your compressor? Also, do you think it's necessary to have a very large compressor to paint a car? My compressor is a two-stage, but the tank is only a 32 gallon.
- Did you use the same gun to shoot the base and the clear? What gun do you use?
I plan to do lots of research. But I would greatly appreciate anything you can share about painting.
Thanks.
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Klutch-As to the paint are you talking about the engine or the car?
I was speaking of the car. But the engine paint also looks great.
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Looking good!
I think you'll be very happy with the Cleveland. Getting a 390 to outperform the Cleveland would likely have been very expensive.
The paint looks especially nice. It was like that when you got it? If so, I'm green with envy!
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With mig try using cursive "e" continuously for the stacked dimes. Be careful with the start-stop-start-stop method, as it will typically produce a poorly penetrated weld. A stack of dimes does nothing if you don't get good penetration ;)I will give that a try. Thanks.
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mig is a different animal.you can kind of make a similar effect with a mig, you basically just have to weld, stop and move, weld, stop and move...quickly.
OK. Thanks.
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i've been trying a lot of different techniques. seems to depend on the situation.i can get something that almost looks like a stack of dimes without any filler material.
i've found myself letting off the peddle a bit between puddles.
the large nut and heavy bracket were welded using continuous circles and moving at a steady rate. the fillet in the box tubes in the last pics were by pausing/add throttle/filler, move/off the throttle, pause/add throttle/filler, move...
your best bet is to probably get tig advice from a veteran though... :)
Thanks, Buckeye. Are your techniques similar for MIG?
69 mach 408w build
in Project Progress Forum
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The blackout area on the hood looks great. Did you post about what kind of paint you used for the hood? (Sorry if I missed it, but it's a big thread.)
I see a lot of people clear coat over the blackout areas on Mach 1 Mustangs. I can understand why they do it. It's easier to paint and keep clean. But it sure looks better when it's a satin or semi flat!