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Flanders

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Posts posted by Flanders

  2. Posted · Report reply

    I replaced the rear main seal last year, and I'm still leaking oil out the back. Before I try and replace the seal again, I was going to re-silicone the split on the rear main bearing cap.

     

    Is it pretty common to just RTV the crap out of it? Is there anywhere else I should be sealing up?

     

    I'm going on the assumption that the rear main is put in correctly. I figure I'll re-seal the bearing cap, and tighten up the oil pan bolts a bit. Thought I'd ping the experts to see if there's anything else I can do to help fix this.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    I got a spray-can of upholstry/fabric glue, and a sheet of vinyl from the fabric store. Worked great! It might be starting to bubble up in one section, on the curve -- a few heat cycles in the sun has stretched things out a bit. I think I should have used more glue, but it should be an easy fix. (peel it back, and re-glue)

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Mike65 -- that's roughly where the pads are now. The outside-edge of the MaxJax install is 125" apart, and with the arms fully extended, the pads *just* reach the rear frame rails (very close to where they're welded to the floors) and the front rails.

     

    I'm tempted to put another set of anchors in for the jack, about 8" closer together so that I have a bit more range/room to move the arms of the lift. For now, this will work fine though :)

     

    jholmes -- $2000 (Cdn), from costco.ca. It was $200 off last fall. This included shipping to my door. Add another $35 for rental of the SDS rotary hammer drill (home depot rental included 2 brand new concrete bits, required for install)

     

    Midlife -- that's exactly what I was thinking, except using a hockey puck since I have lots of those kicking around. They're very dense rubber and won't crack.

     

    Rip Rock -- the garage roof is 9' tall. The MaxJax can lift the car up 4' (maximum) so this is perfect. I can put my daily driver on it and lift it 4' with a few inches to spare from the ceiling.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    My speedo cable has 'settled' on top of my exhaust pipe. A good 5" long strip of the plastic outer coating was melting away on the exhaust! I can visually see the metal wire inside of my speedo cable now. (doh!)

     

    The speedo cable still works, however I'm thinking now I don't have it mounted right. I'd like to get this fixed. I've got a 351W, 4-spd toploader. Magnaflow x-pipe exhaust.

     

    Is there supposed to be a clip somewhere on the underside of the body that holds up the speedometer cable? I thought it was good and secure last year when I put it in, but apparently I was mistaken.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Using a lift I would only use the frame rails as lifting points.

     

    I tend to agree. I spaced my jack posts at *just* the right distance. With the arms fully extended, I can reach the frame rails however I need to make sure the car is perfectly centered between the posts.

     

    I was hoping it was just as safe/secure to use the pinchwelds (factory locations) if I needed too.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    I installed my MaxJax last weekend :)

     

    mustang_hoist_zpsc00fd2b3.jpg

     

    I have a question about jacking points now.

     

    In the picture above, the arms of the jack are fully extended to each the front and rear sub-frames. This definitely works, however I was wondering about the "factory" jacking points on the lower rocker panels / pinch welds.

     

    I was going to cut some notches in some hockey pucks, and use them where the jack is here: (not my picture)

    jm-99-04-stainless-brake-hose-01.jpg

     

    Is this a safe and acceptable way of doing it?

     

    When your cars are up on a lift, where do you set the lift pads?

  11. Posted · Report reply

    So the GT gas cap differs from the Mach 1 gas cap with the spring mounted cork in the cap? Didn't know that.

     

    Edit: Nice progress, you car is going to be a head-turner. :D

     

     

    My original GT gas cap also has a spring mounted cork thing in the cap too. I ordered a new Scott Drake one, and it has the option for installing with the spring, or with the screw-on cap.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks everyone! The temp here just dropped from 7*C down to -15*C, I hope that isn't an indication that spring will be prolonged...

     

    you and your chinook's :) I remember living in Calgary -- you'll get a couple nice days to work in the garage, and the next thing you know, it's -20C again!

     

    We've had -20C straight for a while now My car sits in hibernation :(

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Hi, Do you know whether anyone reproduces the metric speedometer face?? I've never seen one before. It would be handy here in Australia as we are metric also. Beautiful car, it'll be stunning when its finished

     

    I unfortunately don't have an answer for you. I've got mph only, so I frequently have to test my quick mph-to-kph math skills :)

  25. Posted · Report reply

    i didn't use any tool for my toploader --

    -disconnect the shift linkages from shifter assy

    -'align' the notches in the bottom of all the plates in the shifter assy (you can eyeball it, or use a little allen key)

    -connect shift linkages back to shifter assy, keeping plates aligned.

     

    shifterrehab2.jpg

     

    Even after this alignment, my shifter would pop out of 4th gear so really this was just a 98% starting point :)

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