Flanders
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Posts posted by Flanders
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I have some pics of my fastback seat (non-folding) at home. The big flat metal piece separating the trunk from passenger compartment bolts onto the rear parcel shelf (another big flat metal piece). Tough for me to describe it, I'll see if I can get some pics up later!
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Jim's suggestion worked -- I put the castle nut back on it (upsidedown) and beat the !$%# out of it with a hammer. I also pounded on the PS ram itself, and eventually it popped out. Oh, and I had a liberal coat of PB blaster on there too. I had no intentions of rebuilding this one :)
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Jim's suggestion worked -- I put the castle nut back on it (upsidedown) and beat the !$%# out of it with a hammer. I also pounded on the PS ram itself, and eventually it popped out. Oh, and I had a liberal coat of PB blaster on there too. I had no intentions of rebuilding this one :)
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thanks for the tips. Without disconnecting the entire steering system, I don't think a tie-rod end puller is going to fit. The oil pan is too close. We'll see what I can do tonight!
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thanks for the tips. Without disconnecting the entire steering system, I don't think a tie-rod end puller is going to fit. The oil pan is too close. We'll see what I can do tonight!
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I'm replacing all my power steering components and hoses, but am currently stuck as I can't get the PS ram out. See red arrow, as this is the point where it's stuck:
It's not budging. I've removed the castle nut, so I thought perhaps the stud should just "slide" out. How tight should this be? I couldn't find my pickle fork to jam in there, but is this a common way to remove it?
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I'm replacing all my power steering components and hoses, but am currently stuck as I can't get the PS ram out. See red arrow, as this is the point where it's stuck:
It's not budging. I've removed the castle nut, so I thought perhaps the stud should just "slide" out. How tight should this be? I couldn't find my pickle fork to jam in there, but is this a common way to remove it?
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When I put in my new rear glass, the clips looked like this
My old clips were all in pretty good shape, even after prying off the molding. I only replaced a few of them which were super rusty.
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69 Mach 1 here. They command a premium price due to desirability, not rarity because they aren't rare.yep, my 69 GT fastback is rare, but doesn't command a higher price because people still want a Mach 1 instead :D
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Check the upper left most fuse: horizontal and should be a 20 amp fuse.whew! Easy fix. The fuse was fine, and the fuse holder looked fine, but after a quick sanding and re-install, everything is working great again.
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you guys are great. Thanks for all the detailed info!
Life got in the way so I had limited debug time last night. That said, I did discover my headlight switch is a bit flakey and after some jiggling/turning the instrument cluster lights do come on. I forsee a new switch in my future.
I also see my reverse lights are not coming on, so tonight I'll check my fuse. I'm fairly certain my turn signal relay is ok, because I just replaced it with a new one that goes with my sequential LED tails and they work absolutely great. Well, they worked great for a few days until this problem appeared :)
I'll check my fuse tonight, fingers crossed it's something as simple as that!
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I managed to find mine with the hood liner fitted -- just feel around :)
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great feedback! I'll do some debugging once I get out of the office!
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I ran into this problem last year, and after removing/re-installing all the fuses my problem went away.
I'm hitting it again, and wonder if there's any more insight.
Problem: when I engage my turn signals, I get nothing. No tick tick tick from the flasher module, no dash, no hood scoop and no exterior turn signal lights come on. (flasher module has been replaced, so i'm sure it's not that). In addition, when I turn my headlights on, the interior dash lights do not come on -- but the exterior lights do come on.
Interior convenience lighting works, as does the fan blower, horn and wipers. Brake lights and taillights (along with headlights) work fine. It's only a problem with the dash lighting and turn signals.
I'm at work with limited internet access (nevermind the limited time to surf!). Any pointers? Is there a single fuse that's the culprit, or could it be something else?
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hopefully this works...
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I've got the same engine as you, pertronixII and flamethrower2 coil, and run a 570 Holley street avenger (electric choke). Car runs great, super throttle response.
I haven't tried putting anything bigger on it, but haven't felt I needed to!
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Thanks!!
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The weather has finally warmed up for me enough to get under the car again (woo-hoo!)
Upon inspection, it appears that one of the upper rear shock mounts is slightly cracked. Probably about a 3/4" long crack in the metal (no doubt, caused by the old seized adjustable air shocks).
What can be done? Add a bigger washer when I mount the top stud of the shock? :D Or is it possible to somehow weld it solid again? I've got kyb-gr2's going in, and this car is a cruise and show car, not a race car, if that makes any difference.
I'll be taking it to a garage, but I'd prefer to tell them what to do, rather than the other way around.
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I had endless "intermittent" problems with my Ignitor 2 while using the resistance wire. Quite the pain in the butt to troubleshoot. With a 12V feed going to a pertronix coil and the ignitor 2, everything is happy happy and it runs like a champ.
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Hey I'd be happy to take those! The lines on the drums on my front brakes are original, and I'd be more than happy for a refresh!
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The Mustang Shop in Calgary:
They've had everything I need, and so far have always been cheaper than shipping from the US (I'm in Canada). Easy returns, very knowledgeable guys.
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love that blue. Looks great!
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I had no problems reusing my chrome trim -- it comes off without any kind of bending. Put some painters tape on the paint around the trim, as the trim will flop around a bit.
Same with the clips. The trim removal tool just "opens" the clips so you can lift out the trim, so you can reuse them (they are metal). The clips attach to little posts around the window opening, and are not welded in.
Your new headliner is most likely folded up into the window opening, and will have some old sealant on it. Just cut off the old sealant carefully as to not damage the headliner.
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make sure you use the right type of sealant. There are different types of "3M Sealant" and you want one that remains tacky forever.
There's a trim removal tool as well that works great on the trim around the window. It's a pain in the arse to get that first clip out, but once you figure it out the rest go pretty smoothly :)
cams. Educate me.
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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I've got a stock 351W 4v ('69) with a Holley 570 Avenger on top. Pertronix II coil + ignition, dual magnaflow exhaust (stock exhaust manifolds) and that's it for non-original parts.
I'd love to have a lopey idle. The thumpidy-thump-thumpity-thump noise just turns my crank :balloon: however I don't want to get a cam that alters the driving characteristics very much. I don't have the urge to change heads, intake and exhaust to balance with my new cam. I've got a street/show car only, so I'm really not looking for anything crazy.
Is there a roller cam (a Thumpr?) that would give me what I'm after? I expect a bit of a performance increase, but without me having to change everything else? I'm a pretty reasonable backyard mechanic however have had very limited exposure/experience with cam education and all the various specs out there.
I realize I'd need a roller cam, lifters...but would I need new valve springs? Any suggestions?