coloradostang

I have tried 3 solenoids, 2 new one used same result wont shut off. I have aluminum heads so I ran a heavy duty ground from firewall to top starter mounting bolt.

O.K. went around tightening everything up. now she starts and idles. New problem- I tun the key off and she keeps running. I have to move the dist or pull the coil wire to shut her down. Whats up? The solinoid is brand new, I disconnected the alternator no change. I did not have this problem at first when I had trouble getting it to Idle. I found a loose sparkplug and tightend up the carb bolts and vacume fittings. Then it idled fine but would not shut off with the Key. I repaired the wiring harness under the hood a while back mabey something is not hooked up right? I have a hard time believing the ignition switch could be the problem all of a sudden.

It will stay running as I feather the gas pedal. I am getting gas from the carb, I can see it spraying in. Does anyone know about how far the vacume advance on the distibutor should be turned. I am about 15 degres to the passanger side, the distributor hose is directly above the top center water pump bolt. It is a little sluggish in starting from there, but I have also ran down the battery. I have read in a post to go to tdc remove dist. manually turn crank to 10 degrees btc put dist back in and start from there.

O.K. guys here is where I am at. The beast will start and if I feather the gas I can keep it running for about 30 seconds and thats it. Will not idle. 69 ragtop rebuilt 351W Edellbrock performer rpm heads, cam and intake. Quick flow 680 cfm carb ( out of the box) have not messed with it. Mallory unilite distributor, promaster coil, high fire 2 ignition. Fresh premium. Fuel pressure guage reads 5 psi. trunk mounted battery. 12 volts everywhere it suposed to be. Have tried with electric choke on and off. This is my initial start up on this engine. Moving vacume advance on dist helps a little but still wont stay running. I adjusted the valves as MACH1RIDER described on this site. I measured the pushrods with a lenth checking tool before ordering, rockers are roller tips cam has hyd. lifters. I was not able to get 2 of the header bolts in on the drvers side but the rest are tight. the mallory dist cap does not have a number one mark on it but my number 1 wire looks to be in the right location and it starts. Rotor points to # 1 cyliner at TDC. I have run the battery down so it is charging while I wait. I am no engine pro and need a little advice to get it running and off to the paint shop. Thanks! I plugged the dist vacume line and it will run but not idle, but it is rough, sounds like a top fuel dragster.

Torque converter was not set all the way in, all is good, motor turns!

Thanks for all the help so far! Now the problem is the engine binding. I removed the starter, engine still would not turn by hand. I backed off the tranny and the engine will turn. What I have is a 78' 351w, Car had a FMX tranny, its history, so I installed a C-4. I used a flywheel off a 302-C-4 set up cause the FMX/351 flywheel is too large to fit in the C-4. Things look real tight with the flywheel weights and converter bolts up against the engine plate. Do I need a 351-C-4 flywheel? Is there a difference?

Thanks everyone! I got the wiring figured out, I will open a different thred on the engine binding.

Fixed one problem, found anouther. Slowly coming along. Thank goodness it's my dream car. Sweat alot, bleed a little, keep on working.

I think I have the wiring figured out. I have the power to the starter, but it only engages but won't turn. I can't get the crank to turn by hand. It turned when I installed it, but It has sat a year. I am afraid it might have seized. I an going to back the tranny out mabey its jammed up. I put the driveshaft output in and it tuns in all gears except park but the motor does not, that doesn't seem right. I pulled the plugs and put a little oil in each cylinder. I will let it set in a heated garage for a day or so. When I switched from a bad FMX to a C-4 I used a 302 flywheel because the 351 was too large to fit in the C-4, could this be a problem? I have pulled the starter, still can't turn engine by hand

I also have 2 black wires that come out of the harness near the solonoid, they have a star shaped washer on them are these a ground? There is a large(10 guage?) black wire under the carpet going from the firewall back towards the shifter whats it for? Shifter light maybe? UPDATE- I bypassed the neutral safety switch, starter engages but does not turn, ideas?

I need some help from a member with a 69 convertible. mine has a 351W auto, power top. I am re-wiring under hood. My loom is a mess. I have a nicer loom from a 69 coupe, both are V-8, seems to be about the same, should I use it? Also will someone show be pictures of their wiring to the solenoid, volage regulator and radio condensor? I have everything wired up, but no power to the small left side post on the solenoid when the key is on. I have 12 volts to the solenoid on the battery post. I an going to check conections to the neutral starting swich. Car has mallory pro master coil and unilite distributor and trunk mounted battery. Thanks.

Thanks, looking forward to the picks. See if you can get one of where the convertible top wire connects to the wiring harness in the engine bay.

I was thinking that might be for the top. problem is the black wire is cut about 2' long. does it connect into the main wiring harnes or some where else? I seem to be short one wire. There is a large black with yellow stripe wire comming out of the harness, but I believe that runs to the starting motor relay unless the top wire also ties into this one. had a wiring fire so it's a bit of a mess and I cant find the firewall wire(conv. top ?) on any wiring diagram.

69' ragtop 351W C-4 no A/C no tach. Power top. There is a fairly large black wire (10 guage?) that comes out of the upper portion of the firewall directly behind the carb, where does it go? Car has been sitting a long time, trying to remember where everything goes. Masking tape labels fade with age.:sad: Thanks.

Yeah, you are right no verts on that page.

Yeah, you are right no verts on that page.

J.C. Whitney has them in a universal style. Made by Acme. $250.00 and hopefully it fits? doesn't sound good to me.

J.C. Whitney has them in a universal style. Made by Acme. $250.00 and hopefully it fits? doesn't sound good to me.

Go to the web site you have on the last post. Click on the 69 vert album, then click on the white mustang vert gallery then click on the blue 67-68 mustang album. They mention them there but no retail sales, no specs, no prices. I shall keep hunting.

Go to the web site you have on the last post. Click on the 69 vert album, then click on the white mustang vert gallery then click on the blue 67-68 mustang album. They mention them there but no retail sales, no specs, no prices. I shall keep hunting.

Hey Pak, acmeautoheadlining.com. They have 65-68 bow mounted headliners. I believe J.C. Whitney sells their products. If you find something that works let me know. Thanks.

Hey Pak, acmeautoheadlining.com. They have 65-68 bow mounted headliners. I believe J.C. Whitney sells their products. If you find something that works let me know. Thanks.

Hey Pak, acmeautoheadlining.com. They have 65-68 bow mounted headliners. I believe J.C. Whitney sells their products. If you find something that works let me know. Thanks.

Thanks, Pak That's what I thought. Darn those lucky 65-68 vert owners! They get all the parts. But I love the 69.

Sorry I just saw air gap in your post. Mine is the standard R.P.M. Like I said it just clears. I doubt the air gap version will. Sorry about the confusion there . Good luck.