coloradostang

Thanks Kris. Guess I should have put my glasses on. Didn't notice the prongs underneath the other ones. Got it now.

Found a used one for $65 plus shipping. I have a B&M starshifter laying around from anouther car. installed it today, shifts great. Cost me nothing. One question, what is the proper way to install the neutral start wires. B&M instructions are a bit unclear ( universal Fit). I have four wires in my stock plug, and one slip on wire fitting on the B&M switch. Anyone out here do this swap?

Any one know where l can get a linkage?

Will a FMX shifter linkage arm work on a c-4? If not all I see out there are 67-68 c-4 shift linkage arms will those work on a 69?

Swaped out the old FMX for a C-4. Having trouble with the shift pattern. Do I need to modify my fmx lingage to work on the C-4? I read somewhere you have to drill a new hole in the shifter bracket. Also I need to know where the bracket on the tranny should face, up, down, it rotates 360 degrees when loose. There is a vacume fitting towards the bottom of the tranny, where should the hose run to? And finally anyone hooked up a kickdown cable? I have a quick flow carb and have to use a cable. Got the cable no directions though. Thanks.

Sounds like it's afterfire. I have headers and 2 1/2 exhaust. I was running sidepipes but it was too loud. So I put a short lenth of pipe after the glasspacks and added a couple supertrap mufflers as a guick fix. Could that cause the problem?

New 351W, edellbrock performer rpm heads, cam and manafold, quick fuel carb. I adjusted the valves when engine was warm. Idles well but backfires out the exhaust when acellerating and coasting. not a harsh backfire but it is backfiring. but not all the time. Have not messed with the carb. Have tried different settings with the timing. Same result. I am going to look for any loose bolts. Does it sound like I need to reset the valves again? I am running premium fuel. Header bolts were a little loose, but nothing else.

Used type FA, top works great now thanks!

Classic Cragar S/S Also like the American racing sprints, had them on my coupe.

Sticker on the fluid tank says to use type A ATF. Wen't down to the parts store and there is no type A. Of course my car is older than all the parts guys, so they were no help. What should I use?

Thanks, I found the plug and a sticker that says to use type A tranny fluid.

Just installed my power top frame. I can hear the motor work, but the top does'nt move. I think I need to add oil (some was lost on removal) and bleed the system. What is the correct way to do this and what kind of oil to I use? It is a 69. Thanks.

Thanks, figured out where they bolt on to the cowl. I seem to have misplaced my wiring to pump, I will keep looking.

Need a little help with the wiper squrters. Anyone have a picture with the cowl off, so I can see where the squrters are located? I also can't seem to locate the wiring to the bottle. I dont see it on the wiring loom. Thanks.

So true. And with electrical, prayers are sometimes needed.

Hey thanks, I had not thought about it settling after a little time and use.

This ties into dangstang's question. I put 1 1/2" lowering coils on front and a 2" drop in back. The front end still seems too high Good 1 1/2" higher in front than back, tire to fender. What's this about tightening the lower control arm with the weight of the car on it? Are we talking about the bolt with the eccentric on it? I do have smaller tires on the front so that could be it as well. And these cars do seem to be nose high to begain with. Also can I do the Shelby A arm drop with lowering coils on it?

I run the 3/4 rear mounted bar. It was an easy install. Have not had it on the road yet, but expect an imrovement in cornering. I run side exhaust so no issues with exhaust.

I just re-did my seats a couple weeks ago. I did the same thing Jim did and it worked great.

There are notches in the round metal part ( held in by the headlight adjuster screws ) the back of the lights have little tabs ( part of the glass ) that match up with the notches. And of course the outboard lights have three electrical tabs on them while the inboard lights have two. I just installed mine yesterday after having them off for years. Had 2 sets of everything so it was a bit confusing at first.

Well I have the pass side rear turn signal and brake light working now. Orange underdash wire had pulled apart, but still no drivers side turn signal or drivers brake light. But I do have drivers side running light in tail light. Weird, I'll keep looking for shorts.

Went arround the car replacing bulbs today. Everything works great now except I have no brake lights or rear turn signals. Rear running lights work in tailights. Bulbs are new. Front turn signals work. There are 2 female wiring connectors sticking out of the loom above drivers side wheel well, I believe these are for C pillar lamp and dome lamp, which I don't have in a convertible. Nothing is connected to these and I don't see anything that would connect. Car has been sitting for a long time. I will check wiring diagrams and look for shorts. Any ideas? 69 Vert. 4 way flashers work in front only. UPDATE- I found an orange wire under the dash that had pulled apart, fixed it and now pass rear signal works, but not drivers side or brake lights on both sides.

I bought my convertible top a few years back, had the money at that time. Kept it in the sealed box it came in. Car comes back from paint tomorrow. pulled everything out of the box, and it all looks great except the plastic rear window, it was wraped in brown paper and the plastic has little brown dots all over it. They don't rub off, any ideas on what to use to clean them off?

Yeah!!! Hotter plug gap did the trick. She idles well no smoke. Will have my buddy with the timing light fine tune her. Thanks all.

I just read that with a hotter coil I need to change my spark plug gap to .045 I will see if that makes a difference.