prayers1

69gmachine- I don't know what your looking for but, ADCO, Eddie, I would give him a shot. He has 3 huge warehouses of new and old parts. Anything that I could think of, he has. He also has a warehouse with several vehicles as parts cars.

I gave the vin, same number on door and dash. The car is primer, but the trunk and around the inside of the door is a greenish/gold color. The motor, trans and rear has been changed as well as the interior by the former PO's. By far it is not a numbers matching car, but it is interesting to know it's history. I'm just confussed why the report says PS when it's now manual. Why would a PO change a good option? The report says: Black Kiwi Vinyl Standard Bucket Seats. Does that mean, black seat with Kiwi trim? I believe that seats are from some other year Mustang, but the folddown rear seat looks original, it is all black. Does it also mean that the back seat should be Kiwi. I never seen an interior with Kiwi seats. What would be Kiwi on my vehicle.

I just got my Marti report in: It says I have Power Steering, it would be GREAT, but I don't. The Steering box itself is manual, no under the frame brackets either. Also what's the Sport Decor Group & Visibility Group. I have a driver's sport mirror, NO Passenger, Hood Scope turn signal and the Park Brake Light, but NO seat belt warning light. I also have the fold down rear seat I took the interior all a part, NO Build Sheet. 63A Mustang Sportsroof I Lime Gold Paint, Ford #2041-A 2A Black Kiwi Vinyl Standard Bucket Seats 31K Scheduled For Build: October 31, 1968 51 Denver Ordering District 2 2.75 Standard Axle Ratio 1 Three-Speed Manual Transmission DEALER#: 76A005 Your vehicle was ordered with the following features: Sports Décor Group Three-Speed Manual Transmission Visibility Group E78X14 Tires White Sidewall Tires Sport Deck Rear Seat Power Steering AM Radio Tinted Glass-Complete

I have 2- I never had any contact with this one, but heard he has a lot of parts. Matthews Mustang Parts, Rosebud Arkansas 501-556-5617 I know this guy personally. Great Guy! Tell him the guy from NJ sent ya. ADCO Classic Mustang Cars, Harrison Arkansas. Eddie Adcock, 870-365-6182.

Sorry for misunderstanding. Post #5 says 100. For $1000, I'd walk away.

It seems like you really want this hood. If he wants $100, then give $75, you have nothing to lose. I don't have a shaker hood, I would buy this one for my project if it was close by and you didn't want it. If you got the cash and are replacing a lot of metal, then I would buy a FORD tooling one. I've bought other things that I regretted for a lot more, so it's a personal choice.

Me personally, the value gain isn't really there. You can get an original Ford tooling hood in better condition and after it's painted who's really gonna look or even care. If your so bent on getting this hood, I would make sure that it fits proper. It may be warped or crowned. Don't take it personal, this is only MY opinion.

There's are cheaper NOS caps on eBay

No problems at all. I like the FAT 15" tire look. The tires line up with the outside lip of the 1/4 panel. The PO put air shocks on, however I let all the air out and I have NO clearence problems, no rubbing on the panels and NOT too close to the leaf spring. I'm trying to duplicate the look of my first car a 1969 mach 1. It had Mickey Thompson N50-15's. The 295/50/15's look close enough. PS- No spacers

Exactly what are you asking for. Is it the chrome center AC vent?

Thank You Pakrat!

I have drums now but will switch to disc sometime soon. I already have a set of Weld Prostar 15x10, 295/50/15's on the back w/ 5" BS. What BS can I use with a 15" Weld Wheel up front. Should I go 15x8 or 15x7.

I see, it's on the side facing the driver. I can't locate it in my picture. I'll have to check tomorrow. Do you think I have to remove the whole unit just to look at it. I hope I can angle my camera towards it. Yes, Nice picture and the pencil helps. Thank You!

In the picture, are you talking about VIEW-Y. Are you saying that spring causes the tension on the Parking Brake. I'll have to check tomorrow. Thanks!

Where on this picture is it?

Here's a picture of the lock set up. I now see a bread tie on the pull up knob lever, but I don't think that has anything to do with my problem. Does anyone see something?

The door panel is off. I've just been staring at it dumb founded. It looks like everything is attached. Nothing is hanging off. When you pull up on the knob that unlocks the door, it just falls down. I think it needs to click into something to keep it up. From Inside, I can't open the door unless I pull up on the knob and then use the door handle. From outside, I can't open the door with the push button handle unless I turn the key to the right, then push the door handle button.

Forgot to mention that the door lock knob feels loose. If I pull up on it, it just drops down, it doesn't click into position and stay up.

If your still having problems. Get in touch with Randy at midlife66.com/wiring/wiring.html

In order to open the door each time I have to put the key in the door lock cylinder and turn it, then press the handle. If I just press the handle the door won't open w/o turning the key. From the inside, I have to pull up on the door lock knob 1st, then pull the handle to open the door. I've looked inside the door to see if anything seems missing, broke or unhooked as if a plastic clip has broke, but to no avail. It all looks foreign to me, what am I missing?

When I pull on the lever to release the parking brake pedal it doesn't move much. If I pull on the release handle I can pull the pedal up with my hand. I don't see anything wrong with the cables, no binds. Is there a release spring within the unit How many bolts to take off the unit. Has anyone repaired their e-brake.

Came across this during a Google search. Check out the video at the bottom of the page. Make sure you turn up the volume and check out the guy racing in dress shoes. http://www.dearbornflashback.com/69dragteam.asp

Lucky for me I still had the original wire harness laying around, so I took it apart instead of the one in the car. It's easier for me to show a picture instead of explaining so here's a rough drawing. I found the ONLY 2 blue/red wires coming out of the fuse box, one going to the light switch, then onto a wire that goes through the firewall, I think it has something to do with the reverse lights. The 2nd wire from the fuse box goes to a factory junction, from there it goes to the radio lamp, heater panel lamp, Dash Cluster wires and glove box. I couldn't find any shorts, so I took the fuse box off and puled the center bolt out in order to look at the rear for any burnt wires. I found none, but I was able to trace the 2 blue/red wires. On the side facing the driver, I started to look at the terminals that hold the fuses. I found fuse #5 the smallest fuse of all feeds only the 2 blue/red wires and the fuse terminal was rather rusty, something you couldn't see from looking within the car. I scuffed the terminal with emeroy cloth, cleaned it up and put everything back together. Now I have power to all lamps. The problem was a rusty, pitted fuse terminal. It was a lot of work for something so little. I hope someone can learn from this post.

Went at it again tonight. Now power at #5 fuse and all lights. No power to radio feed but power to the light side of that feed. Went to hook up glove box light, moved a few wires over there, then No lights again. I checked power to fuse box. This time there is Power. What gives??????????????

Used a lead form the neg battery post to the test light. Fuses # 1, 2 & 3 work with key on. Fuse # 5 works with light switch pulled and Fuse # 6 & 7 work all the time. This was the first and ONLY time I got power to the glove box light and heater panel light, now nothing. Also No power to radio as well. #5 fuse is so small it's hard to tell if it pops or not, what makes matters worse is that I have to break it everytime I take it out, so tight in that position. I can't find that fuse in 4 amps only in low amp fuses. Where are you guys finding that fuse. I'm almost think of getting an inline fuse and tie it to the ends of fuse #5, so I can have an easier time checking that fuse. You would think it's an interior wire problem, But why no power at fuse #5?