prayers1

Great Job Rsanter! Keep us posted.

Shaun, I too have an AOD but use the Lokar cables that mount to a ball stud on the Quickfuel throttle. I've been told by FiTech that their throttle lever works just like my Quickfuel Carb or Holley. I hope this helps.

I emailed FiTech- "How soon is the Go EFI 4 - 600 hp available for delivery!" Here's the response: We have multiple in stock and they are ready normally for either same day or next day shipping. Just let us know when you want to purchase and we can get that setup. Thanks! Sales at FiTech EFI Reach us at 951-340-2624 or Sales@FiTechEFI.com Rsanter- Have you tried to give them a call?

69ish, I have the Blue Thunder Manifold. I'll keep ya posted.

There is a great interest in Self Tuning EFI's in all aftermarket cars, I too would like to get one for my 69 351C, but there is the cost factory that has prevented me from doing so. The big name companies are selling theirs for around $2500. A new company, FiTech has been on the market for the past year and has been selling theirs for around $995. They have had some great reviews on the web as well as VMF. It has been suggested on this site that if we get enough members interested in a FiTech product that they might give us a group discount. I've enclosed some info about the product, but I suggest that you go on their FiTech website to educate yourself. Also there is a lot of info on the VMF website. If your interested in a group discount, please let me know. Please note that I am not the main source for this and if someone else wants to put up a a seperate survey or has a different approach, please do so. Thanks! Go EFI 4 - 600 HP Four-Injector Throttle Body EFI Suitable for up to 600HP The Go EFI 4 Self Tuning Fuel Injection is rated at 600 HP but is suitable for engines from 250 HP thru 600 HP. This system is perfect for your everyday Driver right up to your weekend Street Machine or Bracket Racer. It features the FASTEST most accurate Self Learning available, Timing control, Wet flow Annular discharge and tons of additional features. It fits any 4-bbl intake manifold and is the most self-contained and full-featured unit of this type. The ECU (computer) is mounted on the throttle body, which greatly simplifies installation. No hole in your firewall and no unsightly harness draped across your engine. This is also the only computer mounted throttle body that offers spark control without the need for an external spark box or special distributor. It also has a built-in fuel pressure regulator. A hand-held controller features a touch screen for quick and easy initial set-up. Note that this EFI system can also be used with an engine compartment mounted Fuel Command Center, which provides a returnless system. See Command Center details in the description below. Click Here A Complete List of features of the Go EFI System 30001/30002 Kit Contents Die Cast Throttle body Handheld Controller Windshield Mount (4) Hi-Flow 600 HP injectors Built-in pressure regulator 2.5 BAR Internal MAP Sensor Throttle Position Sensor Idle Air Control Coolant Temp Sensor Wide band O2 Sensor O2 Bung Kit -06AN Fuel Inlet Fitting Gasket Kit 20' of -6 fuel hose and 5' of -8 hose & fittings Mounting brackets (4) Hi-Flow 600 HP injectors Initial setup is quick and easy. Simple touch screen selections get you up and running in minutes Self-tuning** After startup the ECU immediately takes over and provides your vehicle with an optimum tune! Basic install can be done with just 4 wires and 2 sensors to install Uses the latest Bosch 4.2 wide band O2 sensor while all other sensors are easily replaceable GM style parts The ECU is mounted on the throttle body so there is NO external boxes or harnesses to clutter up your engine compartment or under dash. This saves you a huge amount of time and keeps things simple and neat. Throttle bodies have a completely universal base to fit any 4-bbl manifold Throttle Linkage suits most transmissions Choice of three fuel inlet connections All Go-EFI’s feature Voltage Control fuel pump control. This feature reduces the voltage to the pump under low load conditions such as idle and cruise thus reducing noise and heat. This will extend the life of your pump and keep the fuel in the tank cooler and your ears from ringing! Go-EFI Systems feature Wet flow technology and have a unique Swirl Spray Annular discharge design that assures COMPLETE ATOMIZATION!! Check out our videos, you need to see it. Ignition timing can be controlled and adjusted on the fly from your touch screen controller Air Fuel ratios can be optimized on the fly as you drive! Try that with your Carb Part #30001 &30002 feature 1 adjustable fan control switch Will work with CDI box but not required to control timing Built in Fuel pressure regulator. No extra regulator to mount on your fire wall. Manufactured with OE engineering. Our ECU’s are used Globally and pass euro 5 emissions standards in new vehicles

Thanks for the advise guys. At this point I still have this facination of getting EFI. I always wanted the use of an O2 sensor besides just 1 wide band gauge. I appreciate the kind responses, but I want to keep this Topic focused on Self Tuning EFI experiences. I gonna start a new Topic on a group purchase of the FiTech EFI, If I get enough interest, I'll present to it to FiTech or if there is someone on this membership that has ties to FiTech, maybe they can suggest the question. Keep your fingers crossed!

I'm looking for ideals on how to route the return and vent lines for an electric fuel pump. I'd like to see where the lines come in the trunk area. Thanks.

MikeStang- I have the RobbMc 550 hp Cleveland mech pump. I've already replaced the entire fuel system from car to tank. The only thing possible could be a worn out or *%#@ up eccentric washer that the fuel pump arm rides on. I've been contemplating an electric fuel pump since spring, getting an EFI system will help to get there. Rsanter- Yes, that is a great ideal.

IMO, routing the return and vent lines is going to be one of my biggest concerns. I show my car and the judges like clean spaces. If anyone has a picture showing the the entry way into the trunk that would be great! As for the vent line, I assume your not venting into the trunk, how are you venting and are you using a filter at the end of the tube to prevent anything from getting in. I'm just touching the surface regarding self-tuning efi's, I like the ideal of a digital screen to read ouptput as well as having an O2 sensor. My biggest problem right now is adjusting the 735 Quick Fuel 4 idel screws and fuel pressure dropping at high rpms. The FiTech is looking better and who knows some of the big names might have a Holiday sale, so it looks like I need to make my decision fast. I thnk CJ Pony has a good year end discount and they sell a few EFI systems. If you have pictures, please post them. Thanks Guys!

I'm pushing, maybe 400 hp so the 4 injectors would be ( I believe) best for me. I have a couple of important questions. 1, I'd like the EFI system to control timing. Does the FiTech have that capabilitiy. I have the Mallory Unilite Dist, should I get a MSD Bullet (8577) with a control box 6A. 2, As for the fuel tank, it seems that the fuel pump in tank version requires a return and a vent. Since the only spot to install those openings is on the top side of the gas tank, this means everytime you pop open the trunk you'll see the hoses and it makes less cargo room. Where are you putting the access holes in the trunk to route those line????????

I'd like to get a Self-Tuning EFI system for my 351C. There are a few out there, but reading reviews they say their all about the same. There is one company (FiTech Fuel Injection) selling a unit (Go EFI 4 600hp) for around $1000, much less then the other big name ones. That's at least $1000 or more less then others and looks like you get a big bang for less bucks! I'd like to get some first hand experience from you guys as well as how you went about installing your fuel supply, Did you use an Aeromotive intank type pump or something else. Thanks!

On that test I ran it w/o the air filter. i don't know if changing from a 35-40 micron would be any significant difference. The only other explanation could be the eccentric for the fuel pump arm. I brought this question up to an engine builder friend of mine and he said there are two types, one thick and one thin, If I have the thin one then it should of came with a cap to make up the difference. If the guy who built my motor didn't do that then that may be the problem. As for cleaning the carb, I guess it wouldn't do any harm. I gotta pull the oil pan off this weekend due to n oil leak, I'll see if there is anything unusual on the fuel pump arm. I still would like to try an electric pump as per my opening statement. The only problem is finding a reliable one w/o putting one in the tank since I show the car in Stock Class. 1969_Mach1 - Now that you know all the specifics on my build, how many GPH due you think I need on an electric pump.

I took the rear 100 micron filter out and changed to a quicker advance curve, I didn't feel comfortable taking the front 35 micron filter out. Took it for a run and the fuel pressure went from 6 to 4 at 4000 rpms. I didn't feel any difference in regards to my shorter advance curve. I did apply the brake and gave it gas to see where it started to move and it was around 1400 rpms, does that mean anything with a 2600 stall.

initial 16, Mech 20, total 36

Yes that is the exact one I just put on, but I had a 40 micron JEGS style before that. Been to busy at this point to get to the car but first chance I try those experiments . In the mean time any other ideals please drop a note. You guys are great, Thanks!

The 3/8s fuel line from tank to pump is new as well as a new SS tank and Scott Drake SS pickup. I can remove the filter elements on both and try it w/o. Since all components are new, I feel w/o any filter element I shouldn't have any problems with debris.

1969_Mach1----Your right on that 10 Micron, SORRY my bad, its not a 10 Micron, it's a 35 Micron At first I had one of those Jegs 40 micron from pump to carb with the Fuel Pick up sock still on. I just recently took the Sock Filter off, about 1ft from the Fuel tank I put in a Holley trash filter 100 micron and a Earls 35 Micron filter from pump to carb per Summit Tech advise. 1500 miles on motor Cam rpm range 6000 Carb fuel window is 3/4's Check out spring rate below Here's my build: 351 4v Iron Closed Chamber 63cc heads, SS valves Scorpion Pedestal roller rockers Bullet grind 541/559, 270/283, 50@ 220/231, lsa 110 Springs #145@1.800 & #350@1.200 RobbMc Fuel Pump. Blue Thunder Intake Carb- Quick Fuel 735 Vac Sec Sandersons Shorty headers FlowMaster 40 out to tail pipe 4 speed AOD and 2600 stall Mallory 47 ser. Unilite Dist w/ ProMaster E-Coil 41000 volts 4:11 trac-lok 9" rear

I'll try to answer your questions in order. I do not use a regulator, it's a mechanical fuel pump. I can get it up to 5000 rpms and thats it I tried a few adjustment with the Vac Sec, I've heard people use the lightest spring but QFT does not agree. When I last had the bowls off, I noticed a yellowish gel around the power valve, I was told that was residue from gas, I have not had the metering blocks off. I always had this problem from day one. The entire system is only a year old. I run the shaker scoop that doesn't allow much room, but I do take it off and use a 3 1/2" tall x 6" wide filter when I experiment. Brand new 10 micron filter between pump and carb I tried with the gas cap off to prevent any type of vapor lock.

Here's the QFT Factory set up, Prim Jet 68, Sec Jet 78, idle air bleed 70. I changed the Idle Air Bleeds from 70 to 74. Prime 68 to 70, Squitter 30 to 35. Now the Mixture screws turn out 3/4 for highest Vac. I've tried changing the vacuum secondaries. On the QFT, there is a side screw that allows the change. Factory setting was 1/2 turn, I've tried a 1/4 in, too delay them and I've opened them 3/4 to one full turn. To me I didn't feel much of a difference. I also made sure the transition slot was a perfect square. I have not taken the metering block off, just the bowls. Just did the changes the other day, so I looked into the carb for any obstructions. Thought this info might help you guys: Bullet grind 541/559, 270/283, 50@ 220/231, lsa 110, AOD trans, 4:11 rear

Here's a Youtube video take 11 months ago. That's when I first started to notice thisn problem. I made the above adjustments since and still ahve the same concern. https://youtu.be/lAS7jHYMhgs

Yes its a QFT 735 Vac. I did try a parts store carter pump and the same results. I spoke to a QFT tech and he was the one to say up the air bleed, prime and secondaries. That is because my plugs are bright white and mixture screws were only turned out a 1/2 with 12" of Vac. 1969_Mach 1- What do you think I should set the carb with?

I have cowl mounted Fuel Pressure gauge and I watch the pressure go from 6.5 to 3-4 psi at wot. It only drops when it starts to build rpm's. It seems it happens above 3500 rpms. When that happens the car will fall on its face and when the pressure gets back up then it goes back to normal. Driving in traffic or hwy has no problems or fuel starvation, like I said it only happens when I nail it and the rpms get to 3500. My plugs are pure white (lean) so I went from a 30 to a 35 squitter and when to 70 on the primaries, I also increased my my air bleeds. As I said above, It sure seems like fuel starvation and I have chnaged everything from the tank to the carb, also removing the fuel pickup sock filter. As for ignition, my tach does not jump around when it has its problem, so I'm pretty sure its fuel. The last thing it could possible be is the eccentic washer that moves the fuel pump arm, there might be something wrong with that and thats a guess, that's why I want to try an Electric Pump.

sportsroof69-What do you think about my last comment about an ignition problem.

Sportsroof69- Pictures would be appreciated. I show my car alot, so I try not to make the engine compart look like a race car, but I guess there are not many options to hide a regulator and bigger lines. RPM-that price is for the Phantom Pump, you might have seen it in several magazines. Yes the cost is $1117.00, its an in tank pump. BandBstangs-Thats the pump I have the RobbMc 550hp NASCAR one. I have 400 hp, so that should be fine. I also tried an off the shelf Mech pump and same thing happened at wot. Could my problem be electrical? I have a Mallory Unilte Dist, I changed the PINK res wire to 12v and I'm getting 12v at the coil and Dist. Could it be cutting out at high rpms??????????????????????????????????

ClickClickracing.com is about Ford Overdrive Transmissions. Theres a guy over there that goes by the name Silverfox, he built my AOD and had it shipped to my house. He builds the valve bodies so that you don't have to mess with the TV Cable, just take out the slack and thats it. You can reach him at silverfoxtrans.com. Take a look at his page and you'll see all the options available. I've had my trans for a year and it works great. Tell him the guy from Arkansas with a 351 Cleveland send ya.