moose425

What a yo-yo I am.  I loosened and removed the hex head cap screws that allow the electric motor to be clocked into a different position about the mounting plate.  I should have been loosening the three bolts that connect the mounting plate (and thus the electric motor) to the bell housing.  The hole locations in the photo above lead me to realizing my mistake.  The starter is now out of the car.  Thanks to the guy who posted the  photo.  

I have a 1969 GT 390 with 10 x 2-1/2 inch drum brakes on the rear. They need replacement. No one
seems to make 10 x 2-1/2 inch drums, shoes, or installation hardware for the rear. Should I expect any issues
(installation or use) if I go with 10 x 2 inch drum brakes on the rear.
Thanks so much,
Mark Miller

I have a 1969 GT 390 with 10 x 2-1/2 inch drum brakes on the rear. They need replacement. No one
seems to make 10 x 2-1/2 inch drums, shoes, or installation hardware for the rear. Should I expect any issues
(installation or use) if I go with 10 x 2 inch drum brakes on the rear.
Thanks so much,
Mark Miller

I have a 1969 GT, with an alternator warning light located next to the oil warning light.  The alternator warning light should be light when the ignition switch is in the accessory position or in the run position with the engine off.  It does not light in either case.  I have checked the bulb and it is OK.  System charges fine at 14.4 volts.  I believe i have an electronic voltage regulator rather than the old electro-mechanical style.  Can anyone tell me what is wrong or what tests I can run?  Thanks so much for any help.
Mark

I have a 1969 GT, with an alternator warning light located next to the oil warning light.  The alternator warning light should be light when the ignition switch is in the accessory position or in the run position with the engine off.  It does not light in either case.  I have checked the bulb and it is OK.  System charges fine at 14.4 volts.  I believe i have an electronic voltage regulator rather than the old electro-mechanical style.  Can anyone tell me what is wrong or what tests I can run?  Thanks so much for any help.
Mark

HI:
I have a 1969 Mustang, 390, GT.  A few weeks back the voltage regulator blew up, and I tired to drive home and the car finally stopped as the battery was fully dead.  I replaced the voltage regulator, and charged up the battery.  Now, sometimes, the starter barely turns and I get a VERY loud "knock" from the starter area.  This is usually after driving a long distance and stopping the engine for a few minutes.  I had the battery tested and they said it was good.  I have a header close to the starter which I realize can heat up the copper coils in the starter making it harder for the starter to crank.  The starter is a high torque starter, and the battery is basically a cheap one.  Should I replace my battery with a 800 CCA battery, will this stop the horrible loud knock I sometime hear from the starter?  I have wrapped the header with lava tape in an effort to keep the starter cool.  What is making the very loud knock??
Thanks,
Mark