Big Secz
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Posts posted by Big Secz
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Right around the 4:55 mark...
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They are small reference manuals (approx. 4" x 7.5") the perfect size for mechanic to keep in their back pocket. Probably why they are so hard to find in complete or decent shape.
The one on the left is a "Supplement" manual which covers every spec for all differentials, engines, and carbs for that year.
The one on the right is twice as thick and covers distributors, additional carb specks, fuel (pumps, tanks, etc.), exhaust systems, starters AC systems, every torque spec for everything on the car, and just about everything else you can think of.
All of the info in the books appear in chart form. Here are a couple of random scans for examples from each of the manuals.
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Some more pics....
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I built my console for my '71 Torino. I chose to go with a curved design rather than the standard squared off type console that angles upward toward the dash.
Built it out of 1/2" MDF, routered the edges, used black marine vinyl, and the wife did the gray accent stitching using corrosion resistant upholstery thread.
Two over sized cup holders that will hold any size drink, iPod docking area, two Autometer gauges, and used European style cabinet hinges for the lid so that way the lids stays open by itself without having to hold it open like you would with a piano hinge.
This was my first attempt at building one. Was a fun project, and the cool thing is I'm the only one that has one like it.
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No problem at all. I have a complete set of '71 shop manuals complete with the hard to find pocket service manuals. All of the torque specks were already in the pocket service manuals, so it saved me from having to search through all of the shop books. The pocket service manuals are great and include every service spec you can think of.
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I pulled these out of my '71 shop manual. Should be the same for '69/'70.
Pitman Arm to Control Valve 35-47
Outer tie rod to spindle 35-47
Center Link to Idler Arm 50-70
Pitman Arm to Center Link 35-47
Inner tie rod to center link 35-47
Pitman Arm to Sector Shaft 150-225
Idler Arm Bracket to Frame 30-40
Tie rod connecting sleeve bolts 9-15
Ball joint to spindle 60-90
Lower control arm 60-90
Upper control arm 100-140
*Torque to the low limit of specs then tighten the nut to the nearest cotter pin slot.
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If you are going to go through the trouble of taking everything apart just to replace the rubber boot, you might as well put on new parts. Chances are you'll end up damaging the tie rod ends trying to break them apart from the spindles, and it doesn't make since to go that far and keep 45 year old parts.
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The back end of my Torino is at 24" with 20x8.5 tucked up in the huge wheel wells.
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You should be able to get what you need from any glass shop. What we have will remove any spots with just a sponge.Do you sell it?
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I use vinegar to take hard water spots off dishes... it's a mild acid. May work for car glass as well.I tried vinegar and it didn't work either.
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I have tried just about everything and nothing is working.
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Ok...I pulled out the 'ol Haynes book. Midlife can help fill in some blanks or clarify....
'70
Red/Green Stripe - Runs to a connector for tach and meets Pink wire for ignition
Yellow - Battery
Red/Blue Stripe - Neutral Safety Switch
Black/Green Stripe - Brake warning light
Violet - Brake switch
Black - Ground
'71
Lt Green/Red Stripe - Alt. Regulator
Yellow - Battery
Red/Lt. Green Stripe - Ignition (from fuse panel)
Red/Lt. Blue Stripe - Neutral Safety Switch
Black/Green Has - Fuse panel (splice with wipers)
Purple/White Stripe - Brake Switch and warning light
Black - Ground
In other words save yourself the headache and get an original '70 Mustang ignition switch and be done with it.
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Ok...I see where Chocko was coming from. First of all if you are going from manual drum to manual disc, then to save having to replace hard lines his suggestion is just to cut and splice in the external '69 prop valve in the rear. That makes since....However if you are going from manual drum to power disc, the hard lines up front are different because the master cylinder sits farther away from the firewall due to the brake booster.
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The purple wire powers the brake master cylinder centering switch; it is not a proof-out circuit.The red/white wire is occasionally used for the proof-out circuit for the oil pressure lamp; it definitely is not used in 70 nor 1971 Mustangs, but is used on other vehicles.
For 1970 the pink resistor wire goes from the fuse box to the gauge plug in the engine compartment (standard dash) or from the tach plug (tach dash). The wire going to the ignition is green/red or red/green.
These aftermarket ignition switches are generic switches, not Mustang specific. They will work, however.
So you are saying the '70 and '71 shop manuals are wrong?.....Interesting.
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It looks like you guys have custom lines. I'm unfortunate, since I'm working with the actual stock line, it's a lot harder to bend.Personally, I would replace the stock drum brake distribution block with a '70 disc brake proportioning valve. I'm not sure if the threaded fittings on the drum brake lines are the same size as disc brakes. Below is a link that shows the measurements for the disc brake prop valve. Also it wouldn't hurt to call Chockostang and ask them, they are good people and very knowledgeable.
But if you are doing a swap with factory style disc brakes then I think you may be over-thinking this whole process. I had manual drums on my Torino and swapped over to factory style power disc. I purchased the disc prop valve and a new set of disc brake lines which totaled right around $200 (for prop valve and hard lines). But the trade off was knowing that everything was going to be a direct bolt on and that I wasn't going to have to spend time modifying anything. A little extra money for less time and less headache is well worth it to me.
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That's a PIA job. Take a hose and run water through the cowl and make sure that's where it's coming from before you go digging into that project.
Here's an option instead of replacing the entire lower cowl if you don't have to.
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1970 was different. In '69 the proportioning valve was external of the distribution block as shown in the picture. In '70 the proportioning valve was internal to the distribution block.
'69
'70
http://www.classicrods.com/mbm-1960-70s-ford-proportioning-valve/
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The mounting hols for all of the seat belts have integrate threaded support, or "nuts", so you simply bolt the belts in from the inside of the car and no need to use a nut on the underside. It sounds like to me the previous owner modified it by drilling out the hols to accommodate the aftermarket belts. In this case you will need to us a nut and washer from the underside of the car.
As for the bolts, the ones threaded all the way up are for the rear seat belts. The ones that are smooth at the top portion are for the front belts and buckles to allow for movement. If all you have are ones threaded all the way up then you can sandwich the belt mounting point between two washers and that should work fine.
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Ok...I pulled out my '70 and '71 shop manuals. The switch from Autozone, if that is the same switch as in the picture is definitely a '71
You can use the plunger portion of it but you will need to cut the pigtail and plug off of your '70 switch and solder it to the '71 switch. If you want to go that route here are the wire colors and identification for each switch.
'70:
Red/White Stripe - (P) Proof No. 1
Yellow - (B) Battery
Pink - (I) Ignition
Red/Blue Stripe - (S) Start
Black/Green Stripe - (A) Accessory
Violet - (P) Proof No. 2
Black - (G) Ground
'71:
Red/White Stripe - (P) Proof No. 1
Yellow - (B) Battery
Red/Light Green Stripe - (I) Ignition
Red/Light Blue Stripe - (S) Start
Black/Green Hash - (A) Accessory
Purple/White Stripe - (P) Proof No. 2
Black - (G) Ground
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I don't think that's the right switch. Looks like a '71.
Here's a '70
http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/d0az-11572-a.html
Mustangs Unlimited has one for sale. I would call them to confirm before ordering.
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=SW882%2001
The plugs are different and the length of the wires on a '70 is much longer because it is mounted higher up on the steering column than '71 cars.
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Yes the idiot lights come on when the key is in the ON position. They are functioning now like they are supposed to. Its just odd that they stayed on through steps #1-#3.
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Ok....So i just installed a new ignition switch and this is what happened:
1. Hooked the battery back up and the Oil and Alt lights were still on.
2. I started the car and the Oil and Alt lights stayed on.
3. I turned the car off and the Oil and Alt lights were still on.
4. I started the car and the Oil and Alt lights went out.
5. I turned the car off and the Oil and Alt lights stayed off.
I started the car a few more times and the lights continued to stay off. I'm not sure what caused them to stay on in the beginning and then go out. It's not like a modern car where they will reset themselves.
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I think I know what your issues is now that I look at it more. You have an MSD coil which requires 12 volts constant. I think you have a resistor wire coming from the ignition which is preventing you from getting the constant 12 volts you need. Run another power lead from a switched source that gives you the 12 volts.
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The '70 ignition switch is a one year/one model part that is not reproduced. The closest match is a '69, I went through this before for someone a couple years ago and I think there are only two wires that are a different color between the '69 and the '70 switches and the pig tail on the '69 switch is shorter. In theory you can buy a '69 switch and cut the plug off of the '70 switch and splice it on the '69 switch by matching up the correct wires and giving you the correct length.
70 ignition switch assembly
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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I knew it would be the wrong one. The one you got is for a '71 and up, and like I said the plug would not be correct and the wires would be too short.