Big Secz

Thanks. That custom console got me a lot of attention on the Torino board as well. The car came out great but it just wasn't what I really wanted so I decided to sell it. Believe it or not the new owner called me up unhappy with the car. You just can't please some people. Now I'm building the car I really wanted, so this is going to be a long-term project. I'll be working on putting in a one piece floor pan next.

I'm BACK! After a long absence I finally have my next project. Before I start some of those newer members may say, "Why is this donk posting a '67 project in a '69/'70 forum?" Well I've been a member for a long time and started out with a '70 vert. Then I moved to a '71 Torino, and now I'm on to a '67 coupe. I have been planning this build for a long time, though '67/'68 fastbacks remained out of my financial grasp, I have scored a deal that I couldn't resist on a '67 coupe. While on hiatus, and planning my build for when I finally got another car, I decided to go down the EFI road. It started by scoring a complete EFI setup from a '92 Mustang (wiring harness, upper/lower intake, PCM, etc.) on CL for a $150. I went through and cleaned, repaired, and modified the wiring harness as my first project. When that was done I managed to score a 5.0 with about 800 miles on it since rebuild (minus the parts I already have) for a whopping $400. I then cleaned and painted the motor in the black/candy brandywine color scheme I'm going for. Just recently, my patience paid off and I scored a '67 coupe, San Jose car for a steal. Car has 289, C4, deluxe interior, overhead console, Shelby hood, shaved door handles, A/C, power steering, and factory power front disc brakes. So here I am back with my next build.....Feels good to be back again.

I'm going to be doing an EFI install as well soon, I have a 92 5.0 H.O. and have been looking for solutions. Ron Morris used to sell a complete fuel kit, but I don't think they have it any longer. It utilized a fuel sending unit with an extra tube for the return line and fit in any stock tank. http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/1310-how-to-install-the-ron-morris-performance-efi-fuel-system/

I was wondering if anyone has any experience with Fiberglass Specialties products. Specifically the Eleanor body kit. I have a lead on a complete kit for a steal but was wondering what the overall quality of their products were. I know with all fiberglass there is going to be some fitment issues.

I'm leaning more now toward one of two things both sticking closer to my art backgroung: 1) Making items for garages and man caves out of old car parts. 2) Car renderings.

That was a thought as well, but the issue would be the noise. Between the air compressor and generator. Wouldn't take long to drive your neighboring vendors nuts.

I spent three days in Carlisle with a group of friends there were vending, selling all of their left over parts. For three days I sat there walking around and trying to come up with ideas of what kinds of on-site restoration services some one could start. The thought is that someone buys a used part they need a the swap meet and then can come drop the part off for restoration and repair and pick the part up later completely restored. So I'm wondering what kinds of on-site restoration services would you like to see or have access to? Or what type of specialty niche services that are hard to find would you like to have available? A couple of ideas I have come up with are: Carburetor rebuild services: On-site complete carburetor cleaning and rebuilds. The downside to this is that there is no way to do the zinc replating or have a way to test carbs once rebuilt. Gauge restoration services: Complete gauge restoration and repair. New lenses, faces, quartz clock upgrades, plastic repair, etc.

This will be my fourth consecutive year. I go up with a small group of friends and we rent a cluster of four vendor spaces and sell all of our spare part. Since I don't have a car or parts left, I'm just going up for the hell of it. Because we get vendor spaces we get access on Thursday, so we will be heading up Thursday morning and pack up and leave Saturday evening.

I'm a fan of not having an antenna. I think protruding antenna's ruin the look of the car. I like the shaved look much better. Gives it a cleaner and more modern look. I'm also a fan of shaving the drip rails.

Thanks. I found the build tag on the motor. It was rebuilt in 2006 and only has a few hundred miles on it. So I didn't see the need to pull the heads. I wiill take a peak in the cylinders when I pull the oil pan and replace it with and early model 302 oil pan. i took a breaker bar and turned the motor a couple times and it moves nicely. I really don't expect any issues with it. All-in-all I think it was a nice score for $400. Next I'll be on the hunt for an AOD trans for it.

Painted and mocked up the engine today. Still need to source an early model 302 oil pan and dipstick so I can convert it from rear sump to front sump.

Then I rememberd a buddy of mine that has an '88 Mustang and has a 5.0 in storage at one of his buddy's garage. The story behind the motor is he purchased it from an engine builder that said it was rebuilt (you can see the new freeze plugs and inspection marks on the heads). He put it in his car and couldn't get it running right. After getting tired of dealing with the builder he yanked it and put another motor in his car and then discovered he was only running on 7 cylinders due to a bad injector. This motor only has about 600 miles on and after keeping in storage for three years he offered it to me for $400. I had to jump on it because I don't think I could have gotten another 5.0 this clean for that cheap. So my next project now is to dig into it and inspect everything. So for a grand total of $550 I have a 100% complete 5.0 EFI setup and an engine that is possibly rebuilt already.

I then decided to clean an paint the intake manifolds and take some steel wool to the fuel rails. I know the color of the car is going to be candy apple red with black stripes. Below is the end result.

So this thread is going to seem a little bass ackwards since I don't have the car yet. Before buying my '71 Torino my goal was to build a modified Eleanor. The Eleanor project fell through, then I landed the Torino then I sold the Torino with the intention of finally looking to build my "dream" car. Well life, family, and home repairs ate up my "car fund" money and purchasing an actual car was put on the back burner. I know what I want to build and was talking it over with another car buddy of mine who restores Mustangs and he told me, "Sometimes you just have to buy the button before you buy the coat." He suggested since I knew for sure what I wanted to build I should start scouting parts here and there as deals pop up. When time comes for me to get a car he offered to find one for me since he has endless connections and is constantly buying old Mustangs and has people contacting him every week looking to sell him their unfinished "projects". One of the things I know I wanted to try out this time around was swapping in a latemodel foxbody 5.0 EFI engine with an AOD trans. So after a ton of research I set out on a quest to see what I could dig up. While browsing CL one day I came across an ad for a guy that was selling the complete EFI setup off of a '92 5.0. He was switching it to carb for his old Bronco. He was asking $180 for everything. I called him up and he said if I could come pick up the stuff that day he would sell it to me for $150. I was at his house 45 minutes later. So the first step was tackling the wiring modifications. There are three wiring harness (main, EFI, and O2 sensors). I stripped all of the sheathing off of the wires and repaired any damaged and then started removing anything that I didn't need and labeling. I also rerouted a bunch of ancilary items like relays so that they would then be mounted inside the car verusus in the engine compartment.

The hood scoops look nice. I know when I first purchased an aftermarket one it never fit the contour of the hood correctly and also the studs were prone to breaking off.....Ended up finding and original scoop. If you made yours true to original fitment then that would definitly be in demand. So much crap on the aftermarket now in terms of fiberglass, Shelby parts especially. Based on the feedback on this thread, you could start a good business from it making nice custom parts. So much are available for 65-68 but very little for 69-70 in terms of hood options, side skirts, etc. Ring brothers is the only one that makes a complete kit (Dragon) for the 69/70 cars and they want an arm and a leg for them.

Everyone will agree that the situation sucks. A lot of us have stories that we can sympathize with. Before I had an actual garage to store my '70, I kept in one of those portable garages. Then we had a massive snow storm one year and the entire garage collapsed on my car. Damage to the front fender and tore through the top. I took the car to a reputible body shop and they were able to repair it and blend the paint. Then there was the time I was backing my car out and caught the hitch of a trailer thrashing the rear quarter. The last pic shows after it was repaired by the same body shop. They blended the paint into the door and into the deck lid. I agree with a previous poster that the picture you posted of the "blend" you had previously was a terrible job by the body shop. With metallics especially you have to step down the paing and spray out the blend in three to four different stages stepping the paint down (dilutting it) more with each stage. They didn't blend it into the door which was a mistake and they didn't blend it into the deck lid. Also you can tell they didn't step the paint down because the roof shows a clear line with now fading out of the paint. I think you biggest issue is finding a reputible shop that knows what they are doing. As for the $1500 that sounds about right. I paid $1200 to have my rear quarter redone, and I paid $1,100 to have the front fender done.

When I have a car to work on I find I like to sink all of my free time into that. I work in IT and have done some web design on the side as a "hobby" but found that since I spend so much time working on computers for my day job, working on old cars was a great release. Now that I don't have a project currently, I dabble in drawing. Graphite and charcoal portraits mainly.

I don't see why you would need a complete repaint. Any good shop should be able to blend that in. They will probably have to blend it inot the door and into the trunk lid. A buddy of mine owns a body shop and did some quarter work on my '70 when I tapped a trailer and he blended it and you couldn't tell there was ever any damage or that it had even been repainted.

A huge Eleanor fan myself...As if you couldn't tell by the avatar....the one thing I like about the Steve Standford designed version on the '67 is that all of the changes complemented the lines of the car. With that said on a '71 it looks like a ridiculous rendetion of a Hot Wheels car. Aside from the side scoops, nothing else about what they did compliments the lines of the car at all. In fact it makes it worse. The '71-'73 Mustangs are not the most attractive to begin with with the square front and over-sized rear. They added the side exhaust skirts makeing that part of the car look too low to the ground compared to the front and rear of the car, then added the duck tail on the rear wich made an already large back end even bigger accentuating one of the most unattractive parts of the car. Get rid of the hood scoop and go with a ram-air Mach 1 style hood, get rid of the duck tail and add more ground effect to give the illusion of lowering the rear, and go with a more subtle side skirts like on the Ring Brothers Dragon and you might be onto something.

Yeah, two 4x6 fit perfectly. I had a vert, so I didn't have any rear spakers. So I wired the two center dash speakers to the front, and the two kick panel speakers to the rear, so that way I could balance the sound better. It sounded really good for a basic install. For the bracket I drew it up on paper and then took it to a local motorcycle shop that had a CNC machine and had them cut the bracket for me. Just cost me bottle of scotch for the guy that did the work. The only issue I think you would have is if you had an A/C car, I think the spaker magnets would get in the way of the duct for the vents.

You can always start planning your installation now. Picking out the different components that you want. For example, if you are going to put in kick panels, then you already know what types of speakers will fit. Also you can pick out the type of head unit you want. If you want to stick with a classic look such as with Classic Auto Sound, or if you want a modern single DIN head unit. One of the things I did for my 'vert was mounted two 4x6 speakers side by side in the center dash speaker location. This required making a custom bracket for it. But the sound was great. I used JB Weld metal putty epoxy to mount the bracket. If I did it again I would have welded everything. But the JB Weld worked great and never came off.

I think what you are trying to replicate are what most newer cars have which are small tweeters in the A-pillars. What you would need are component speakers with separate tweeters, woofers and crossovers ( The downside is given the limited mounting options for speakers, mounting the woofers will be problematic to give optimum sound/performance. Essentially you'd have the tweeters on the A-pillar and the woofers possibly in the kick panels. Depending on the type of headunit (radio) and amp(s) you choose getting the right balance of sound between bass and trebel might be an issue. The corssover with the component speakers will help somewhat with balancing the sound between the trebel from the tweeters up by your head and the bass from the woofers by your feet. But I think you will also need to look at getting an equalizer to help you dial everything in.

So here is a question...How can they total it if you have an agreed upon value with your classic car insurance provider (i.e. Hagerty, Grundy, etc.)? Couldn't you get your insurance provider to work on your behalf with USAA? Obviously an adjuster can't treat these cars like normal cars. So what I'm saying is if you have it insured with your insurance company with an agreed upon value of $30k, and USAA wants to total it because the repairs come to 10k (all hypothetical) how is it even possible? I would think your classic car insurance company would step in.

That's what I figured. I ended up going to the store today and settled on the Duplicolor Metalcast. Found a really nice red a close match to what I have in mind for the color of the car. It said on the can that it is heat resistant. i was impressed with the final finish, its glass smooth. I'm going to paint the throttle body spacer the same color. The upper intake manifold will be black, and probably the lower intake manifold as well. I'll have the plate finished tomorrow. Will post a pic.

I want to paint my 5.0 intake manifold plate candy apple red. They don't make that color in a rattle can high temp application, was wondering if I used high temp primer and then regular rattle can paint over that if it would work. Any ideas/recommendations?