Big Secz
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Posts posted by Big Secz
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Yes you will lose those turn signals.
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I got a new Cruiser Console for Christmas. When I put it in the car the back of the console sits flush on the hump, but in the front it doesn't. It's actually raised about 1/2". Is this normal for these consoles?
I have a '70 convertible and received the console for a '70 convertible so I know I got the right console.
If anyone has pictures of a the same console in their car it would be helpful.
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I sent the pictures to a friend of mine who owns a body shop, he's the one that did the Boss stripes and paint on my car, he told me he can repair the fender. He also recommended someone to install a new top. My only issue now is getting her running right so I can can then get all the cosmetic repairs done.
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I'm about two hours south of DC (in typical traffic). When it warms up this spring I can come up and take a look at the engine with you, but be prepared to remove the intake if we need to inspect that far (have intake gaskets on hand to re-install). Just remember, you get what you pay for, and I'm not asking you to pay me!This is just a hobby for fun. You don't rely on your Mustang to put food on the table. We work on them as time and money permit, and walk away when we're frustrated or have higher financial priorities. You'll get there.
Thanks for the offer to help out. I have posted a video in the technical forum under the thread "Blowing Smoke". If you get a minute check it out and see if you can come up with any ideas.
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Like Print Dad had mentioned I've had a string of bad luck. Thanks to the Blizzard of '09 that hit us here in the DC area I now have some additional work to that needs to be done.
The mound of snow next to the swing set is where a portable garage once stood...inside it is....my car. The other pics show the damage, I guess it could have been much worse.
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I still have to get the damn thing running right.
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I just received some pictures of the damage. I guess considering what happened it could have been much worse. I'm going to need a new canvas top and probably a new fender.
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Thanks Print Dad for the post.
So here's the latest on what has happened. The car was in a 16x20 portable garage. One of those types with a metal frame structure with thick tarp-like material stretched over it. This thing has held up well the last three winters so it never occurred to me that the snow would bring it down. I also had the car covered inside the structure.
I've attached a picture that my mom sent me yesterday. It's hard to see anything but the white mound next to the swing set is where my car is buried.
I did receive a status update a little while ago. My parents and a couple neighbors were able to get her uncovered. I'm waiting on the pictures of the damage. Once I get them I will share with the group. From what I was told the canvas top ripped by the rear window and chipped the paint in the same location. She said the top frame looks fine. There's also a dent in the front fender near where the antenna is she said is about the size of her fist. It appears all the glass is still intact.
Print Dad is right, I'm at my wits end at this point. Between the motor issues and now this. The universe is against me.
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Sorry for the delay in posting. Like Print Dad mentioned I’ve been a little busy getting ready for the Holiday. So here’s step by step what happened to get me to where I am now.
The problems started around the June timeframe. The car would have issues with sputtering and stalling. I talked to Mechanic A and he said that it appeared to be a carb issue. It had a stock 2bbl carb on it at the time. He recommended that instead of rebuilding the 2bbl carb I upgrade to a 4bbl. So he installed the Edelbrock Performer intake and Holley 600 CFM carb. After working on it for a few days he still couldn’t get it running right so installed a Pertronix ignition system. It seemed to run fine after that.
One evening I was at a stoplight and when the light turned green I tried to go and the car died. I noticed the accelerator pedal was stuck to the floor. After freeing the linkage I was able to get it home. I then installed a new accelerator cable and when I took it for a test drive the accelerator got stuck and this is when the motor over-revved and after this is when I started to get a tapping. On top of this I still had issues with starting. I sent it back to Mechanic A who was still unable to get the car running right so he recommended Mechanic B.
When Mechanic B got the car I told him that the issues at the time were starting and the tapping sound. After a week with the car he called me and told me the car was ready. When I went to pick it up the car started up right away and I didn’t hear the tapping anymore. This mechanic swapped my distributor with an MSD billet distributor, replaced my spark plugs, spark plug wires and starter solenoid. On the way home once the car reached operating temperature I heard the tapping again. By the time I got home she was on the verge of overheating.
I contacted Mechanic A again and told him what was going on. He recommended upgrading the radiator and replacing the thermostat. After replacing the radiator with a big block radiator and installing a 180 thermostat, I didn’t have any more problems with overheating. But I still had the tapping sound and that’s when Mechanic A had said that it might be a piston slap.
I drove the car for another month with the tapping and then a neighbor of mine noticed the smoke. This was now the early September timeframe. I chose to attempt to tackle the valve adjustment myself and as Print Dad had mentioned I’m new to wrenching. My mistake here was not adjusting the valve in the correct order or seating the valves before attempting to adjust them. I simply started and cylinder 5 and went down the line 5, 6, 7, 8 and then moved to the other side 1, 2, 3, 4 and I just tightened them down until zero lash. After this I started her up and that’s when the motor started vibrating. I cut her off and she has only run intermittently since.
So now I still had a tapping though not as bad, a bad motor vibration, and smoking. I was then put in touch with the retired mechanic, Mechanic C. He took the car for a couple days about two weeks ago. He ran a compression test and vacuum test and said they came back fine. He said he adjusted the valves and the choke on the carb. Now what you see in the video is the current state after getting it back from Mechanic C. I spoke to Mechanic C and he wants to look at it some more when he has more time which will be after the 1st of the year.
Motor vibration: I still think the valves aren’t adjusted properly. This started after I attempted to adjust them myself and I think I over tightened them putting pressure on the cam causing the vibration.
Tapping: I’m assuming that this is still related to the valves or the lifters. I’m wondering if it would be worthwhile to go ahead and pull and inspect all the lifters and pushrods.
Smoking: This started in the warmer months so It’s not just due to the cold weather. Up close the smoke is gray/black. I also have carbon residue in my tailpipe and carbon build up on the spark plugs. Some have mentioned from the pictures of the plugs that it appears to be oily. There is one section of the plug by the post that is wet but the carbon on the post is chalky and not gummy.
So now I’m waiting for Mechanic C to look at it again.
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How much preload are you giving them?Since mechanic 2 has adjusted the valves I have to check with him on that. So right now I don't know.
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hydraulic
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I'm not sure what more I can provide. Like Print Dad had mentioned I had been to a couple mechanics. After a friend of mine installed the intake and carb I had it taken to a "reputable" local mechanic.
Mechanic 1
At the time the car was having problems with sputtering, starting, and a tapping. This mechanic replaced the distirbutor with an MSD billet distributor, upgraded plug wires to 8mm, replaced starter solenoid, changed spark plugs and adjusted the carb. When I went to pick up the car it ran great or so I thought. Once I got about four two miles from his shop I noticed the tapping had come back. Another five miles I noticed the thermostat creaping higher. Come to find out this guy would just start it for a bit and since everything seemed good he thought he had fixed the problem.
After that is when I replaced the radiator and thermostat, but naturally I still had the tapping. Like I had mentioned I attempted to adjust the valves but I think I did it too tight. When I bolted the valve covers back on and started the car is when the there was now vibration in the motor.
Mechanic 2
The most recent mechanic was pressed for time and only had a day to give it a quick look. He adjusted the choke on my carb, "adjusted" the valves, ran both a compression test and vacuum test and both of which he said checked out ok. What you see in the video is after I got it back from mechanic 2. He told me that he'd have more time to look at it after the 1st of the year.
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A little history on the car. I purchased it February of this year so I haven't had it a full year yet. I'm the fourth owner of the car. The previous owner said that the motor was rebuild 8 years prior. However I don't believe this because as you can see from the before picture of the motor I find it hard to believe a motor could look like that after 8 years and if it was rebuilt why would you put a dirty motor back in the car? I'm thinking maybe they just did a refirbirsh and not a rebuild.
The motor is the original numbers matching motor. This was confirmed when I had a friend of mine install the intake and new carb. When I got the car it had the stock intake and 2bbl carb. I had problems with stalling and hesitation that I figured was due to the car. Instead of rebuilding I opted to upgrade to a 4bbl carb.
Shortly after that I had problems starting and after having a mechanic take a look at it upon his recommendation I replaced the distributor withe a MSD billet distributor and also installed new plug wires and starter solenoid.
After that I had issues with running too hot. I then installed a big block radiator and new 180 thermostat.
The car ran fine after all of this but I did have an engine tapping. About two months ago when the weather was still warm I noticed the smoking and carbon in the tailpipe.
About a month ago I attempted to adjust the vavles myself, big mistake, and replaced all the spark plugs. After I attempted to adjust the vavles is when I got the bad vibration in the motor.
Neverhteless I still had the smoking issue as well. I understand the smoke colors, blue = oil, white = water, black = fuel. It doesn't smell like burning oil, or have a sweet smell like antifreeze. It's a fuel smell. My clothes smelt like I soaked them in gas after I shot this video. I pulled the dipstick and there are no signs of antifreeze. The oil looks normal and is normal density. If I had a blown gasket then there should be signs of antifreeze in the oil, correct?
Below are the before and after pics of the motor.
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Hello,
I'm new to this forum. It was recommended to me by another member. I have a 1970 convertible. My issue is that it is blowing smoke and I'm looking for any sort of recommendations.
I know the smoke is related to a fuel issue because of the color and the smell. I have carbon residue in my tailpipe and carbon deposits on my spark plugs.
I have pulled the dipstick and there are no signs of antifreeze, the oil is fine, so I'm fairly certain that this is just a fuel issue.
It's a 302 with and Edelbrock Performer intake and a Holley 600 CFM 4160 carb with non-adjustable floats.
Below I have inlcuded images of what the spark plug looks like that I pulled out of the car a month ago, all the spark plugs look like this.
I've also included a video. The hard starting in the beginning I think is due to the cold weather and the car had been sitting for a week without starting.
Crushed Roof?????
in The Garage
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Well I found someone to install a new top for me to the tune of $500 in labor if I provide the top, and a friend of mine said he'd take care of the body work for me. Now I just need to get her running right.