Big Secz
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Posts posted by Big Secz
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Depending on the carb you have you may need an additional return spring on the throttle linkage, but there is no return spring on the transmission.
You should be able to press the linkage on the transmission down manually and release it and it should return. The arm inside the trans presses against a spring loaded plunger in the valve body to engage passing gear. If you press on the linkage and it stays down then the plunger in the valve body is not working and it would stay engaged in passing gear.
Watch the video at the 7:25 mark to see how the plunger functions. If yours doesn't do that then it's not working properly.
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These are the pictures for the other side. It is with the transmission installed. I hope these help.These pictures show to rod installed correctly. There is no spring that is attached to the rod in that location.
You should be able to press down on the kickdown linkage and let go and it should return automatically. The kickdown linkage presses against a spring loaded plunger internally that helps to disengage it when released. Also the return spring on the carb pulls the rod forward disengaging it when the rod is correctly attached to the carb throttle linkage.
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Yes. Need to see the other side.
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The picture I showed you is for a C4 transmission. Post a picture of your transmission.
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There is no retracting spring for the kickdown rod. Look on the driver's side of the transmission and there is a linkage or "arm" where the kickdown rod is attached and held in place with a "C" clip. Then the upper end attaches to the carb throttle linkage. The kickdown is activated and deactivated using the carb throttle linkage and throttle return spring.
Here is a basic pic from the net to give you an idea.
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OK, all good advise.In regards to my build, not even close to numbers matching. It's more like I made it what I wanted. I changed to a bigger motor, AOD trans, disc/manual brakes, different interior etc... You can catch glimpse on my aviator. When new it was lime green with std interior, I purchased it primer red.
This will be my first enter, I'm think just having a clean car to begin with. I'll be driving it a 1/2 hr away and wonder how am I gonna clean the road & exhaust residue off.
I was thinking a few, not too many before and after pictures and a short paragraph of what's in it.
All you need is your car, a chair, and a few detailing supplies and that's it. Forget all the other stuff, its nothing more than people begging for attention. Let your car speak for itself.
A good detailing spray and a micro fiber is all you need to touch up the car once you get to the show.
There are a lot of politics as shows. If its a show that judges based on a points system and puts cars into classes, I have found those are the best kind. Shows where it's driver's choice or spectator's choice are some of the worst. All of the regulars buddy up and vote for each others cars and even get all of their friends to show up as spectators to pad their votes. You'd be surprised what people will do to win a $5 trophy.
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I gotcha, that all makes a lot more sense when you lay it out. Especially the fact that the paint and body won't be improving with age so if you did enjoy it for another year or two you would likely have to sell it for less. I'm glad you stuck around and shared the project though, I enjoyed it and I hope you do the same with the next one. Maybe even start a window shopping thread so we can see what you come across and ponder.Thanks, Pak.
One of the other motivating factors in selling the Torino was that the motor and trans were original, never rebuilt, and it was only a matter of time before that would need to be done. Again that would have just been more money put into the car, and the market on Torinos is soft enough as it is. Putting more money into a car that I never intended on keeping was just a bad idea.
I'll stick around. I've been around this long.
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I saw this post today and was like ah-what?!?!? I had to go back and read all the prior posts about observation and selling and the hate parts etc... I don't know how I missed all of this news.I still don't understand why though. You put a lot of time and attention to detail in that Torino, not your dream car sure but a fun car the whole family could enjoy and all this before summer even got started. I'm completely flabbergasted and befuddled. :confused1:
Part of me I think likes working on cars almost more than driving them. I like the Torino because it gave me a chance to do things that I had never done before and it was nice to work on something other than a Mustang for a change. But when it was all said and done, the car just didn't do it for me. It was at the point to where the only thing left was paint and some minor body work and I just didn't want to put that kind of money into the car. I still managed to make a nice little profit on the car which was a nice change after loosing my ass on my '70 vert.
Other practical factors were, because I live in a townhouse I kept it garaged at my parent's house. My old man has a nice 26'x26' two car garage where I kept it and worked on it. Now they are getting up their in age and thinking about downsizing, so there goes the garage and my storage unit for the Torino. Not having a car to worry about makes things easier for everyone if they decide to up and move.
After dealing with this last buyer I'm in no mood to get into any short-term flips. So I'm just going to take a break and do some "window shopping" instead.
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I don't care how honest you tried to be, if someone plops down money on a car sight unseen by them or a proxy they get what they deserve in my book. You roll the dice ya take your chances. I found my car to be exactly as the seller described and gave him full asking price because of that but I still hauled my arse out to the middle of nowhere to see it first and then I even had the loan agent inspect it and give it the thumbs up, that was a free service of JJ-Best but still, why take chances.I understand the risk in buying a car sight unseen which is why I did everything possible to be as accurate with my descriptions, provide several photos and a video, and even tell him about issues that couldn't bee seen. But still couldn't please the guy. Luckily I haven't heard back from him since Saturday, so maybe he will be out of my hair.
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So the guy that purchased my Torino called me a couple days ago to tell me that he received the car and is "very disappointed" telling me that the car is "rusted through", and the paint is worse than he was lead to believe and a few other nit picky things.
1. I was 100% up front and honest with this guy from day one about the car.
2. I told him the paint was not show quality, but a driver quality and a 15 footer. I told him all of the flaws with the paint and every dent and ding in the car.
3. As for rust I told him that I would never claim a car to be "rust free" because if you look hard enough you can almost always find some but told him it was a solid car.
4. I sent him over 40 pictures of the car including a video of the car starting and running.
5. I agreed to hold the car for what ended up being two and a half weeks before he could find a transporter.
6. While in Carlisle, even after the car was sold and I had received the money, I found an NOS rear view mirror (the original one was pretty bad) and I picked it up and threw that in the car for him at no charge.
7. I even took off $500 of my asking price to help him toward shipping charges for the car.
He got a hell of a car for $15,000 and has the nerve to make it seem like I was not being honest with him about the condition of the car. :cursing:
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Well, now that the Torino is gone I am without a car or project.....After this last project I've decided that I will focus my attention back on building my dream car. I'm done with buying partially restored projects. It will be some time before I will be ready to jump in feet first into another build, especially one this extensive and expensive. So right now I'm just doing some preliminary research and planning.
Since I know for sure what my next car will be I may start stock piling some parts as deals come up....As one of my buddies says sometimes you need to buy the button before you buy the coat. But I will be taking my time and looking for the right car for this build.
So let the journey begin.....
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When I pulled the intake manifold on my '70 I found the VIN number engraved on the block.
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I finally sold my '71 Torino GT. I take comfort in knowing it's gong to a good home. It was just time for me to move on from this project. I've been an active member of this forum for a few years now every since I had my '70 Vert.
I plan on veering away from classics for awhile. Thinking I might look into getting a Fox Body I can tinker with just to satisfy the gear head in me. I'll pop in from time-to-time just to see what's going on and check up on the various projects and builds.
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Will be my third straight year going. Setting up as a vendor with some friends to sell our overstock of parts.
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You can replace the ignition switch and keep your lock cylinder. That way you don't have to re-key. The return spring is inside of the ignition switch. Remove your switch and try spraying electronic cleaner into any gaps you can find while working the key back and forth. Blow it out the best you can and then spray in some lithium grease. should be as good as new. If not then just change out the switch. Remove your keyed cylinder and transfer it over to the new ignition switch. B.I know the cylinder and ignition switch are two different parts. I just replaced the ignition switch three weeks ago and only started the car three times since. I was thinking the spring was located inside of the cylinder and not the ignition switch. I remember taking a part an old ignition switch from my '70 mustang and only seeing the rod and metal ball bearing that the rod slid against, I don't remember seeing a spring.
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Even though its a Torino, I'm sure its the same for a Mustang....
So I fired up the car today and the key stayed in the start position, and spun the starter a little bit, I have to manually turn it back a little into the run position once I start it. Is there a snap/return spring in these cylinders that returns it back to the run position after starting?
Anyone have an exploded diagram of a cylinder? If I can repair it, I'd like to do that to keep the same key as the door locks. I don't feeling like going through the hassle of replacing both door lock cylinders as well.
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Old Dominion Mustang
Ashland, VA
They are a parts retailer, but they also have a pretty big Mustang graveyard filled with parts cars. If you are local to the area they let you pic-a-part, of if you are long distance you can call them and if they have it they will pic it and ship it for you.
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The only downfall to that is if you have a car without AC you lose the floor vents.
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They sell aftermarket kick panels that will take a component speaker with an external tweeter, or a rectangular 4x6. Just be forewarned that your stock e-brake will no longer be functional as the speaker will be in the way so you will not be able to press the foot lever.
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I've decided to sell my '71 Torino GT and so far I have been surprised at the lack of interest I have gotten in the car. I'm not asking for an outrageous amount for the car ($16,000 OBO) and the car is well worth it. After nearly two months of advertising it on Craigslist, another online site, two Torino Forums, and four different active Torino Facebook pages I've only had two tire kickers. I've gotten a ton of compliments on the car on all of these sites about how nice it is but even the Torino enthusiasts are only looking for the $4k-$5k basket cases that need a ton of work. No one wants to put up extra money for a solid car that they can drive and enjoy and will ultimately save them money in the long run.
For some reason Torinos have never garnered the same respect as comparable '71 cars (i.e. Chevelle and Challenger) whereas the same year Chevelle or Challenger in like condition would be bringing in several thousand more than I'm asking for my Torino. What I find more interesting is that there are Fewer Torinos on the road than Mustangs, yet if this car was a '69/'70 Mustang in comparable condition it would have been sold already. There's just no respect for the '70/'71 Torinos and it boggles my mind. They are great cars and ride so much better than smaller muscle cars, but there just isn't the same kind of demand.
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I've done a few sets myself, and I have found the best cleaner is Dawn. It's not harsh and removes any grease and dirt. I simply let them soak in hot water with Dawn dish soap then scrubbed them with a sponge. Fine steel wool works great on all of the metal pieces and RIT die for the belts. other than time it will cost you very little out of pocket.
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:thumbup1:Thanks guys it works. I had been using the remote starter and bumped the ignition wire off the solenoid. It may be the wrong year part but made it work!I figured it would work, this is a common with Torinos where you have to swap connectors and pigtails. The plunger mechanism is the same so it was just a matter of making sure all of the wires matched up correctly.
Glad you were able to save a little money.
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Ok....I hope this helps. I took both '70 and '71 wiring diagrams and color coded them real quick to show where each circuit goes.
You will have to save them to your computer and blow them up. If you can't read them send me a PM your email and I will send you much larger version. I had to reduce the size to meet the file requirements of the forum.
Foose f104 Legend Wheels
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
I ran the chrome Legend wheels on my 'Vert 17x8 on all corners. Never had any issues with them.