Guillaume69 150 Report post Posted June 9, 2014 Hey guys, I am not far from getting my engine STARTED! Yeah... I know. It feels good just writing it... It's the original 351W block bored 30 over, new pistons, full roller (cam, lifters and rockers). Before I do that, I would like to ask a very basic question: how should I handle the fluids? - What oil to start it / brake it in? How soon should I change that oil after starting? - Any specific type of coolant to start with? Should I consider changing it after start / brake in? What are your tricks and recipes? Thanks for your advice! G Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
THE EVIL TW1N 12 Report post Posted June 9, 2014 Hey guys, I am not far from getting my engine STARTED! Yeah... I know. It feels good just writing it... It's the original 351W block bored 30 over, new pistons, full roller (cam, lifters and rockers). Before I do that, I would like to ask a very basic question: how should I handle the fluids? - What oil to start it / brake it in? How soon should I change that oil after starting? - Any specific type of coolant to start with? Should I consider changing it after start / brake in? What are your tricks and recipes? Thanks for your advice! G You may get a few different responses on this. I would use "break-in" oil - Comp sells it - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-1590/overview/ Change the oil after the first couple of hours of initial break in. Replace with more of the same oil, then change the oil again after about a 500 miles break in and replace with oil you're planning on running. Good to go after that. As for coolant, never heard of using anything specific for break in. Also, make sure to check your intake bolts during the engine break in. Mine had backed out considerably. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SA69mach 39 Report post Posted June 10, 2014 you are full roller cam and lifters? I don't think you have a particular break in requirement for high Zinc break in oil. Guess it cant hurt, but the cam and lifters are the most vulnerable items for low zinc oils during break in. Evil twin is spot on if you had a flat tappet cam. Coolant - I always use distilled water for break in, no additives. If you get color in the water you can get a clue to what it is. After break in, and within a week or two, add your preferred coolant additive. I like Water Wetter, but if you are in a cold place, then 50 / 50 glycol type is the usual recipe. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
