Has anyone rebuilt their power assisted steering?

[TexasEd 191]

I'm a little nervous about starting this project. I guess I need to get all the power steering parts off the car to get started. I have leaks from every hose and there is so much built up gunk you really can't tell what else might be leaking.

[TexasEd 191]

I'm a little nervous about starting this project. I guess I need to get all the power steering parts off the car to get started. I have leaks from every hose and there is so much built up gunk you really can't tell what else might be leaking.

[Black Jade 43]

This is where I had my stuff done. Also replace all hoses. www.stangerssite.com Good guy to work with.

ED

[Black Jade 43]

This is where I had my stuff done. Also replace all hoses. www.stangerssite.com Good guy to work with.

ED

[TexasEd 191]

Yeah, I sent him an e-mail today. I live about 1.5 to 2 hours from him. I'm just nervous about the time line.

 

I would like to rebuild what I can myself and send him the other parts to do for me.

[TexasEd 191]

Yeah, I sent him an e-mail today. I live about 1.5 to 2 hours from him. I'm just nervous about the time line.

 

I would like to rebuild what I can myself and send him the other parts to do for me.

[PaleRider 12]

I did my control valve - not too dificult. Power cylnder does not look to bad. I head the steering box is tought to do and better off sendoing out. The pump and hoses you can still buy thru Napa.

[PaleRider 12]

I did my control valve - not too dificult. Power cylnder does not look to bad. I head the steering box is tought to do and better off sendoing out. The pump and hoses you can still buy thru Napa.

[TexasEd 191]

So buy the pump and hoses,

rebuild the power cylinder and

send out the steering box?

 

What about the control valve? I saw that NAPA lists a rebuilt one for $199 w/ $46 core charge.

 

NAPA does not list the steering box so I guess that has to be rebuilt.

 

Just so I'm on the right page, does this look like the right parts list? Without having a diagram I think I'm missing some hoses.

[TexasEd 191]

So buy the pump and hoses,

rebuild the power cylinder and

send out the steering box?

 

What about the control valve? I saw that NAPA lists a rebuilt one for $199 w/ $46 core charge.

 

NAPA does not list the steering box so I guess that has to be rebuilt.

 

Just so I'm on the right page, does this look like the right parts list? Without having a diagram I think I'm missing some hoses.

[TexasEd 191]

AutoZone was easier to navigate the parts I need, I think a little cheaper and only 2 miles from my house. I'd have to special order all this. They do not have the return hose in stock.

[TexasEd 191]

AutoZone was easier to navigate the parts I need, I think a little cheaper and only 2 miles from my house. I'd have to special order all this. They do not have the return hose in stock.

[PaleRider 12]

You dont need both power steering control valve and kit. The kit is for you to rebuild the control valve. If you buy the power steering control valve it has already been rebuilt. I decided to rebuild it myself. I figured if I messed it up I can alway buy the rebuilt one for a couple hundred dollars.

 

The shop manuals have a good breakdown of the rebuild process and it you buy thru stangersite kit it has very good instruction also. Took me about 2 hours to rebuild - I have never done one. If you have done a carb or can follow instructions pretty good I would try the kit first. The kit at Stangersite site is more complete than what you get from autozone - for one it has the hose seats which you should replace.

 

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_1003_how_to_install_integral_power_steering_gear/viewall.html

 

 

Good luck it's not that bad to do. I think you will surpise yourself. Also take your hoses with you when you pick them up at autozone. Might have been just my car but they were not the same as what I took off. The smaller hoses going to the power cylinder from contol valve fit fine but the hoses to and from the pump were different sizes. I ended up taking them to a place that did hydrualic hose repair and hads them put new hoses on orginal fittings.

 

BTW - If you are doing all this you may want to consider Borgeson set up. I'm planning on doing that on my 66. It is actually a better design than OEM ford setup. Someone had a post a while ago about some issues they had on the swap but I've seen a lot other posts that had positive outcomes. Might be worth a little research

Edited February 21, 2012 by PaleRider

[PaleRider 12]

You dont need both power steering control valve and kit. The kit is for you to rebuild the control valve. If you buy the power steering control valve it has already been rebuilt. I decided to rebuild it myself. I figured if I messed it up I can alway buy the rebuilt one for a couple hundred dollars.

 

The shop manuals have a good breakdown of the rebuild process and it you buy thru stangersite kit it has very good instruction also. Took me about 2 hours to rebuild - I have never done one. If you have done a carb or can follow instructions pretty good I would try the kit first. The kit at Stangersite site is more complete than what you get from autozone - for one it has the hose seats which you should replace.

 

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_1003_how_to_install_integral_power_steering_gear/viewall.html

 

 

Good luck it's not that bad to do. I think you will surpise yourself. Also take your hoses with you when you pick them up at autozone. Might have been just my car but they were not the same as what I took off. The smaller hoses going to the power cylinder from contol valve fit fine but the hoses to and from the pump were different sizes. I ended up taking them to a place that did hydrualic hose repair and hads them put new hoses on orginal fittings.

 

BTW - If you are doing all this you may want to consider Borgeson set up. I'm planning on doing that on my 66. It is actually a better design than OEM ford setup. Someone had a post a while ago about some issues they had on the swap but I've seen a lot other posts that had positive outcomes. Might be worth a little research

Edited February 21, 2012 by PaleRider

[1969 Mach1 14]

PaleRider,

 

The control valve is fairly easy to rebuild. Make sure you purchase all the replacement parts including the pivot ball and bronze sleeve it fits into. If you have the time, I certainly would not pay somebody else to rebuild it. I don't know where you buy your parts, but National Parts Depot has all of the parts for a complete control valve rebuild. One note, make sure the hose seats inside the ports are OK before you rebuild it. Those are the only items I haven't seen available retail. I had a bad one on a hydraulic cylinder and it leaked with every hose I attached to it.

[1969 Mach1 14]

PaleRider,

 

The control valve is fairly easy to rebuild. Make sure you purchase all the replacement parts including the pivot ball and bronze sleeve it fits into. If you have the time, I certainly would not pay somebody else to rebuild it. I don't know where you buy your parts, but National Parts Depot has all of the parts for a complete control valve rebuild. One note, make sure the hose seats inside the ports are OK before you rebuild it. Those are the only items I haven't seen available retail. I had a bad one on a hydraulic cylinder and it leaked with every hose I attached to it.

[TexasEd 191]

Since it leaks so bad could I take the pump and all the hoses off and drive it short distances without any of that hooked up until I get it replaced?

 

I'm talking 2 miles down the road to the car wash and back type driving. I need to power wash the underside pretty badly.

[TexasEd 191]

Since it leaks so bad could I take the pump and all the hoses off and drive it short distances without any of that hooked up until I get it replaced?

 

I'm talking 2 miles down the road to the car wash and back type driving. I need to power wash the underside pretty badly.

[TexasEd 191]

Randy e-mailed me back and said his current backlog is about 2 months.

[TexasEd 191]

Randy e-mailed me back and said his current backlog is about 2 months.

[PaleRider 12]

Since it leaks so bad could I take the pump and all the hoses off and drive it short distances without any of that hooked up until I get it replaced?

 

I'm talking 2 miles down the road to the car wash and back type driving. I need to power wash the underside pretty badly.

 

 

Should be ok - just get the car rolling before you turn the wheels.

[PaleRider 12]

Since it leaks so bad could I take the pump and all the hoses off and drive it short distances without any of that hooked up until I get it replaced?

 

I'm talking 2 miles down the road to the car wash and back type driving. I need to power wash the underside pretty badly.

 

 

Should be ok - just get the car rolling before you turn the wheels.

[TexasEd 191]

Should be ok - just get the car rolling before you turn the wheels.

 

At this point, I don't think there is any difference between the car running or not as far as power steering is concerned.

[TexasEd 191]

Should be ok - just get the car rolling before you turn the wheels.

 

At this point, I don't think there is any difference between the car running or not as far as power steering is concerned.

[PaleRider 12]

At this point, I don't think there is any difference between the car running or not as far as power steering is concerned.

 

Just easier to turn and would put less stress on ends.