Another annoying side window question

[Voxman 10]

I pulled out my drivers side window so I could familiarize myself with all the parts in the assembly as I plan on re-gluing it and adjusting it properly.

 

After reading the posts and how-to's it all makes sense about hos everythign works, but my main question is this ~ what's is the best way to glue in the glass? With the regulator up and the glass channel just below the top of the door, or the channel half ways down or...? I must be missing something.

[mikem 13]

I'm not sure i understand what you are asking. Are you trying to glue the glass back into the brackets without taking it out of the door? I just did that and it worked out great. I've also removed the glass from the door and glued the window back into the brackets on the bench. About the same work either way but easier to align the brackets on the bench. In the door gluing was not bad. I raised the regulator so that i could see and reach the brackets for removal (cleaning) and replacement. I used painters tape to show me where the original top and side alignment were because the glue being forced out of the bracket when the window is placed in it, gets all over. I used a 2x4 to hold the glass in place but get a rubber wedge and place it between the window and where the inner window felt would be, to hold it in place. If i misunderstood the question, let me know.

[Voxman 10]

No, you understood correctly, mikem ~ as I see it, it would be tougher to put it back in with the brackets already glued because that's a pretty narrow opening at the top of the door. But I'm open to anything that works the best.

 

ADDED: I did on fact remove the brackets so either way would be an option - if done outside the door, is it more difficult to put the bracket/glass assembly back in?

Edited April 24, 2010 by Voxman

[mikem 13]

You can absolutely put the glass back in with the brackets installed. The following instructions assume you are starting from scratch so if you have already removed a bunch of trim, skip the steps you need to. The last photo shows where the two bolts were that hold in the rear window stop. Mark this with tape so you can get it close to start with when you do adjusments. Hope this makes sense.

1. Remove the top inside door/window trim piece by removing the two Phillips screws, one at each end.

2. Remove the door handle crank by removing the self sticking round cover in the base of the crank and removing the fine threaded screw.

3. Remove the door arm rest by removing the three bolts counter sunk in the bottom edge of the arm rest.

4. Remove the padded door panel by carefully using a scrapper or flat blade screw driver to pry the clips connecting the door panel to the door. The clips will pop out of the holes in the door and hopefully not break out the back of the cardboard that holds these clips in place.

5. Remove the water shield. You can now see the regulator, guides and brackets.

6. remove the front and back window stops

7. Remove the bottom rubber window stop at the bottom center of the inner door frame so that the window can be rolled down below the window felt attached to the door.

8. Roll the window all the way to the bottom or to a position where you can unbolt the front and rear C-channel window guides from the window brackets. Each one has two 7/16†bolts.

10. Remove the top of door weather strip cap (closest to windshield). Remove the rear top of door weatherstrip and just let it hang since it is part of the door weather strip.

11. Remove the front glass adjusting nut that is on the top front arm of the window regulator. Slide the window off the rear regulator arm and out of the rear window bracket. Let the glass rest on the bottom stop bracket.

12. remove the top and bottom bolts holding the vertical window guides (runs) in place. Let the guides lie on the inside bottom of the door for now.

13. Face the inside of the door and lift the window up and tilt it toward you when it is all the way up. Slide the glass out the back of the door by guiding the bracket on the bottom of the door through the opening at the back of the door. Continue to slide the glass out the back of the door by clearing the front bracket through the opening. If this cannot be done with the window felt in place on the door, you'll have to remove it. It has clips attached to the felt line that snap into the door, I seem to break these but if you carefully use a plastic scraper, you may have good luck.

14. Reverse this process to install. See adjustment below.

Installation: (page 42-02-15&16 of 1970 car shop manual, volume four, Body)

 

Adjustments: When you have the window back on the guides with window felt back on the door and rubber bottom stop back in place. Note: If you dont have a rubber stop, cut about an inch and a half of 5/8" heater hose and cut one side open so you can slip them around the vertical window guides at the bottom. The inch and a half is approximate so cut to desired length.

 

Tumblehome adjustment (in-out tilt)

 

Loosen the screws at the bottom of the front and rear runs. Tilt the top of the glass in or out until the window, when raised, will seat squarely in the groove of the roof rail weatherstrip. Tighten the set screws.

 

Upper Stop Adjustment (Partial)

 

Loosen the two bolts retaining the upper rear stop to the rear side of the door. Then, with the window in the full down position and using a 7/16 inch socket on an extension, loosen the top bolt on the upper front stop. Slide the upper front stop up or down its ramped mounting bracket to adjust the window travel. If sufficient travel is still not obtained, the trim panel must be removed and a complete upper stop adjustment performed. If the procedures above do not give a satisfactory window adjustment, remove the door trim panel and perform the following adjustments:

 

Upper Stop Adjustment (complete)

 

Loosen the two bolts retaining the upper rear stop to the rear side of the door. Loosen the two bolts retaining the upper front stop and move the stop up or down to obtain the proper window travel.

 

 

Fore and Aft Adjustment

 

Loosen the regulator front arm retaining nut. Then, move the glass forward or rearward as required and tighten the nut.

 

Equalizer Adjustment (Fore and Aft Tilt)

 

Loosen the equalizer retaining nut at the regulator lower arm. Move the equalizer up or down to adjust the fore and aft tilt of the glass. Moving the equalizer up will move the front edge of the glass down and the rear edge of the glass up. Moving the equalizer down will raise the front edge of the glass and lower the rear edge.

[dlinebar 2]

Get glass from a 70...its bolt in, no glue......

 

Dan

[mikem 13]

With the adhesive they have now, there is no need to go through the expensive of bolt in glass. Yes, you definately take the chance out of it coming unglued again but you're looking at around $300. for the aftermarket glass (fitment issues?), and then finding the bolt in glass brackets.....and at what cost? There seems to be some disagreement on whether or not you need to replace the vertical glass runs and the regulators with 1970 ones. If so, count that expense as well. Several members of this forum have used modern adhesives to reglue their side glass with no issues. Food for thought.

[Voxman 10]

Thanks for the postings, mikem. I think that with a little patience and elbow grease I can get the windows to fit and operate correctly now! But first I still need to find that darn chrome strip and weather seal!

Edited April 26, 2010 by Voxman