advice on purchasing out of state cars

[Wade 10]

Thanks for the advice on that one. I'm concerned about what is under the paint. if it does not sell I may look into having it inspected and if it is not any worse than what he is disclosing then I may offer $17k for it. By the time I pay for an inspection, shipping to Oregon and any other fees like title transfer fees etc... I will be in it at around $18 to 19k.

I did see a good deal in So. Cal. on Craigslist a few days ago, it was sold soon after it was listed.

[Wade 10]

I'm sure that is a real nice car that a wantahertzdonut has. He has put a lot of money and time with the upgrades. That would make a great daily driver with the 5 speed for better mpg's. I am pushing my budget up a bit for a big block car otherwise I think I would like to stay in the teens for a M code car.

 

I appreciate the advice here you guys have already saved me a ton of money from not buying some cars that I may have otherwise bought.

 

On that note :)

there is another one I found here:

http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/1497943594.html

 

I like the factory shaker hood and being a factory big block car. I've emailed for details and have not heard back yet. But what would a period correct 428 engine cost? Do the engines have the VIN on them to show it is from that car? Or can any 1969 428 from a mach 1 be good enough to pass as original?

 

Wade

[S code 69 13]

Most of the time the numbers are poorly stamped on one head, easy to fake, the date code on the block is more important if it's about right you can't tell and neither can anyone else. a proper date code 428 is going to be pretty spendy $2000 or more for a core, I'd just use that engine if it was me.

 

That price seems like plenty to me even for an R code in the rust belt, non numbers needing a total restoration. I'd figure a safe 20k to restore it even doing most of the work yourself. if it's rust free coming from somewhere else it's probably in the ball park though.

[Max Power 74]

Wade, you need to be patient. If you hurry, you can make an expensive mistake.

 

A good paint job costs 10k these days, and that's without any rust repair. Be patient, save your money, and buy as complete and finished a car as you can up front.

 

You live in a great part of the country for rust free cars. These cars are 40 years old and don't grow on trees. This will take months, not days.

[tony 63C 14]

Hi Wade,

That’s good advice from Max Power. Take it slow and easy. Rushing into a purchase of an old car is risky and can end up being a costly error. Cash is king right now, and I am astounded at how many of these cars are continually coming on the market, so you are ‘in the catbird seat’ as they say.

I just recently finished going through an ‘out of state’ (actually out of country) Mach 1 purchase myself. I knew exactly what I wanted and my spending limit and then sat back and awaited the right candidate. I was prepared to wait as long as it took, which turned out to be about six months (was preparing for a year or more).

Also, I don’t think it’s been mentioned here, but independent vehicle inspection agencies are a worthy consideration if you locate a car of interest that is far from you. The cost is about $400, but it could be a worthy investment if the perfect car pops up. In my case the right car was only 700 miles away, so I was able to drive out in several hours to do a hands on inspection.

Try to make this process fun and enjoy the ride. There a lot of truth to ‘the thrill is in the hunt’. Also, listen to your wife. She is likely more emotionally detached from the purchase, which is a good thing, and from your earlier posts it seems that she has some good sense.

Good luck!

Tony

[Wade 10]

Thanks for the advice. I will just stick to a certain criteria which is a good rust free driver, non-red(dark maroon would be OK), big block or M code car. Preferably a blue one. My wife and I both like this one, but he wants way too much money for it:

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/1511170393.html

That is a good analogy "catbird seat". We have 3 cats and 2 dogs, The cats are extremely patient when hunting they can sit and wait for eternity while trying to catch their prey. I'll take a lesson from the cats :)

Although one of them thinks he can hide behind a blade of grass and no one can see him!

[S code 69 13]

36,000 with the original engine is not too far out of line if it's as nice as it looks. if that's the car I'm thinking of it's been for sale for a long time, which means he won't deal on the price or that he's ready to one or the other. if you could buy it aroud 30k it would be a good deal, if you paid 10k for the car which is as cheap as you're going to find a decent one then put at least 20k in the restoration there you are.

 

Wade I sent you a message in your PM box or email one or the other, I hate computers.

Edited December 17, 2009 by S code 69

[Max Power 74]

Thanks for the advice. I will just stick to a certain criteria which is a good rust free driver, non-red(dark maroon would be OK), big block or M code car. Preferably a blue one. My wife and I both like this one, but he wants way too much money for it:

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/1511170393.html

That is a good analogy "catbird seat". We have 3 cats and 2 dogs, The cats are extremely patient when hunting they can sit and wait for eternity while trying to catch their prey. I'll take a lesson from the cats :)

Although one of them thinks he can hide behind a blade of grass and no one can see him!

 

I am thinking big block rust free cars are going to be out of your price range, based on your parameters. You can probably get a decent 351 car though.

[Spanky 10]

I bought my 69 vert off ebay last summer. A few precautions I took, if possible, contact the PREVIOUS owner, the one that sold it to the one selling it to you. They have no reason to lie, and they were very helpful. I had it shipped, but be careful there also. Mine arrived damaged, and now it's 6 months later, and I still havent been properly compensated for it. But the car is everything I expecte dand more, can't wait for springtime!!! Good luck

[panteramatt 1]

I just bought the second car you listed. Picking it up in 2 weeks and Ill let you know how it is.

[Wade 10]

I just bought the second car you listed. Picking it up in 2 weeks and Ill let you know how it is.

 

You mean the one in Virginia? Is that a clone Mach I?

[h20front 10]

I dont know how much I can help but I do live 20 minutes outside of Richmond. I have gone thru what your going thru. However, it took me several years, several different cars, and many many hours of drivetime to finally find my 69 mach 1 which I recently purchased 2 months ago. I have looked at at least 25 69-70 mach1s from Maryland to North Carolina to Charlottesville. Ive looked at several in the Richmond area and never any luck untill recently. Ive also purchased 2 vehicles off of Ebay with good and bad luck. Like S code 69 said, If it dont hit reserve, call the guy up and try and work a deal, maybe even try and feel him out about the type of person he is. Then you can get a feel for if hes honest or trying to make a buck. My first car I purchased off ebay, I won 4 times without ever hitting reserve, I think the guy got tired of me bugging him to lower his price and finally said come get it. In person is the best. If im not to far I can help you out. Email me and we can talk. magu620915@aol.com

[h20front 10]

Oh, I forgot. I believe the Mach 1 you are looking at is located off of 95 in Ashland Va at a car lot . I also think they recently lowered the price. The car lot is about 45 min to an hour from me. Let me know if I can help.

[panteramatt 1]

You mean the one in Virginia? Is that a clone Mach I?

 

Yea thats the one. He seems like a really nice and honest gut. Im goin next weekend to trade my 95 gt vert and cash for it. Ive been waiting for YEARS for a 69 fastback but couldnt sell my car which is HIGHLY modified in this economy and the wife wouldnt let me keep it and get another one. LMK if your still interested cause I know of a really nice 70 fastback in Miami but its really modified with a 408 cleveland but its really nice and he only wants $15k. I really wanted that one but this deal worked out really nice. Im driving from NJ to get it.

[Wade 10]

You might want to talk to "69cobraman", on page 2 of this thread he said:

 

"Hey there Wade, I know the abouts of that east coast car you were looking at. The place that has it also sells parts and has a junkyard in back. Parts are higher than anywhere else that I have found. Have seen several of there cars for sale at shows and they might have driven there but???????. I myself don't really know if I would buy one there. Probably have to take completly apart and go through it. ...."

 

He seems to know that lot pretty well. When I called about it they said it was a clone car, not a real Mach 1. I would ask some of the folks here for advice on that one. Is that a 351 2v?

 

Also, remember that car has been there awhile and hasn't sold. If it was a really good deal it would be gone by now.

[h20front 10]

I had a buddy look at the car. At one time I beleive they wanted $18,900 He also said it was a clone.

[panteramatt 1]

Yea I know its a clone he told me that on the phone. I really dont care anyway as mach1 was only a appearance package and I can modify it without worrying about the value dropping. Besides, its the only way of me getting a 69 mustang right now cause my 95 isnt selling.