What should I do now?

[Fastbackmustang 10]

You keep talking about this V8 Mustang you don't ue.

To make matters simpler. What year is it, and what engine does it have. Up until '94-'95 or so, the '302 came in Mustangs. Thats the same motor that came in my '69, so you can certainly swap it in, and you can even keep the fuel injection if savy to that kind of thing

 

Now, I'm not trying to be insulting or condescending here, but the questions you ask reveal alot about how much you know. I'm not saying your stupid, what I'm saying is you're new to the classic mustang scene, and have come to the right place for help. With that said, you really ought to consider taking that advice that we give when you ask.

 

I can put any engine that physically fits in my engine bay in my car. Any. If you want to invest the work and have the skills and tools, it's possible. But most people can't do that.

 

Lets say you have a 4.6 or a 3.8 from a newer Mustang. It would still cost less to buy a 302 to put in the car than to put the motor you already have in, because of all the ancillary costs with the newer motors. You'll need custom exhaust, motor mounts, driveshaft, fuel pumps, etc.

 

To put a 302 in, you drop the damn thing in. Maybe you have to replace motor mounts, etc, depends on what your car came with, but it's far, far easier.

 

Frankyl I'm of the opinion that if someone has to ask if a swap like this is possible, they don't have the skills to do it. Again, not trying to insult you, but I don't want you to get started on a huge task that won't get finished, and will leave you dis-illusioned and the car abandonded. I know, I've been there long ago before I became a auto tech. My favorite car at the time sat for years because I didn't listen to people who know alot about that car who told me it wasn't as easy as I thought...

 

A 99 Mustang GT 4.6 L V8 is what I have.

 

I just want to get threw this project because I was told with these older type cars, they need to frequently be work on because something usually goes wrong within that very month. My thought is why not just replace newer equipment with older body. Have everything mounted on right where everything is in tact. However I was wondering is the engine bay big enough to fit everything a 99 gt has.

 

You say its cheaper to get a 302 and put it in...however wouldn't it need to be strongly maintain every day to make sure it runs well...also on top of that i was told that usually it mis fire when cranking up and needs maintaineance.

[Handegard 10]

Thats totally bullshit. I work on cars that are newer than your '99 all the time. Shit goes wrong with brand new cars. Heck, not long ago I had a 2000 or so Mustang that had the harmonic balancer seperate, and I got to do the balancer, plus belts, and some hoses, etc.

 

Yes, alot can go wrong with a 40 year old car. But replacing it with new stuff won't help. It'll just mean you have newer stuff to replace when it breaks.

 

What will help, is being proactive, and replacing the things that can go wrong.

 

Just go out, change all the fluids, do a full tune, replace all your filters, if you want to be really proactive get the carb rebuilt and have the transmission and rear end fluid changed (if you don't want to do it yourself)

 

If you take good care of the car, the age won't matter. The only thing you really have to worry about, is neglect from previous owners. Even then, you can usually just do the simple stuff I mention above and be in the clear.

 

The chances or something catastrophic going wrong are still there, but it's not any higher risk really than on a newer car.

 

Besides, lets say you have a bad engine in your mustang. You can rebuild a 302 for a $3-400 if you don't need any machine work. I only spend $2500 to have my 466ci motor built, including all machine work, balanced, all new parts except the iron. A rebuild kit is like $230 from NAP, and you can do it yourself in a weekend.

 

Now, a 4.6l motor is awesome project. I'd like to do a 5.4l myself someday. But it's a project. A upgrade. Not a means of repair.

 

That being said, WELCOME TO OUR HUMBLE COMUNITY!

[Handegard 10]

Thats totally bullshit. I work on cars that are newer than your '99 all the time. Shit goes wrong with brand new cars. Heck, not long ago I had a 2000 or so Mustang that had the harmonic balancer seperate, and I got to do the balancer, plus belts, and some hoses, etc.

 

Yes, alot can go wrong with a 40 year old car. But replacing it with new stuff won't help. It'll just mean you have newer stuff to replace when it breaks.

 

What will help, is being proactive, and replacing the things that can go wrong.

 

Just go out, change all the fluids, do a full tune, replace all your filters, if you want to be really proactive get the carb rebuilt and have the transmission and rear end fluid changed (if you don't want to do it yourself)

 

If you take good care of the car, the age won't matter. The only thing you really have to worry about, is neglect from previous owners. Even then, you can usually just do the simple stuff I mention above and be in the clear.

 

The chances or something catastrophic going wrong are still there, but it's not any higher risk really than on a newer car.

 

Besides, lets say you have a bad engine in your mustang. You can rebuild a 302 for a $3-400 if you don't need any machine work. I only spend $2500 to have my 466ci motor built, including all machine work, balanced, all new parts except the iron. A rebuild kit is like $230 from NAP, and you can do it yourself in a weekend.

 

Now, a 4.6l motor is awesome project. I'd like to do a 5.4l myself someday. But it's a project. A upgrade. Not a means of repair.

 

That being said, WELCOME TO OUR HUMBLE COMUNITY!

[Handegard 10]

 

You say its cheaper to get a 302 and put it in...however wouldn't it need to be strongly maintain every day to make sure it runs well...also on top of that i was told that usually it mis fire when cranking up and needs maintaineance.

 

I failed to address this part.

 

No, your under the assumption that older motors are somehow inferior. The comments you have here are more or less generalizations about older cars. It's fair to say that a 40 year old car might have some things wrong with it. But remember, you're '99 has $300 worth of o2 sensors in it alone. Thats more than it costs for you to replace every fluid in the '70, change all the filters, replace the fuel pump, water pump, and belts, as well as a new pair of Windshield wipers.

 

I have a factory stock 302 in my '70. Do you know what I have to do to it everyday? I drive the piss out of it. Every day. Its very arduous.

 

Every 5k miles I change the oil. I change the air filter as needed. I maintain it. Probably less frequently than your 4.6 needs. Do you know when the last time I had to replace a o2 sensor was?

 

The worse part about a 1970 Mustang as far as reliability and drivability is the points distributor. You can easily buy a more modern distributor and be done with it.

 

2nd to that, it's the choke. If you have a properly set choke, it isn't a problem really.

 

Now, I'm not one of those nuts that prefers carbs and points with a side of pushrods. I just don't think they are problems.

 

To put this in perspective for you- (keep in mind, I'm a mechanic, and labor for me is free)

 

I own a 2000 Toyota Corolla. I've spent in the past year more on it for parts (remember, labor is free) than I spent to buy my '70 Mustang. I've replaced both o2 sensors, the catalyst, drive shafts, chain tensioner, belt tensioner, belt, refrigerant, etc.

 

Now, I don't think this is a crappy car. It's 9 years old and needed some maintenance.

 

Since buying the Mustang, I've spent $250 for a carb rebuild (fuel leak) and $40 on a distributor. Probably spent $50 on plugs/wires/cap/etc. So I'm probably into it for $350. Not bad, considering the work I did to it is relatively bigger than the work I had to do to the Corolla. If the Corolla ever needs comparable work (fuel induction and ignition) I'm looking at hundereds of dollars more. Injectors are pricey, coil packs are pricey, heck, the spark plugs cost more. The fuel pump on the Toyota is a couple hundered, the fuel pump on the Mustang is $30.

 

So when the Mustang does need work, which all cars will, the works is cheaper, and most people can do it with a basic set of hand tools.

[Handegard 10]

 

You say its cheaper to get a 302 and put it in...however wouldn't it need to be strongly maintain every day to make sure it runs well...also on top of that i was told that usually it mis fire when cranking up and needs maintaineance.

 

I failed to address this part.

 

No, your under the assumption that older motors are somehow inferior. The comments you have here are more or less generalizations about older cars. It's fair to say that a 40 year old car might have some things wrong with it. But remember, you're '99 has $300 worth of o2 sensors in it alone. Thats more than it costs for you to replace every fluid in the '70, change all the filters, replace the fuel pump, water pump, and belts, as well as a new pair of Windshield wipers.

 

I have a factory stock 302 in my '70. Do you know what I have to do to it everyday? I drive the piss out of it. Every day. Its very arduous.

 

Every 5k miles I change the oil. I change the air filter as needed. I maintain it. Probably less frequently than your 4.6 needs. Do you know when the last time I had to replace a o2 sensor was?

 

The worse part about a 1970 Mustang as far as reliability and drivability is the points distributor. You can easily buy a more modern distributor and be done with it.

 

2nd to that, it's the choke. If you have a properly set choke, it isn't a problem really.

 

Now, I'm not one of those nuts that prefers carbs and points with a side of pushrods. I just don't think they are problems.

 

To put this in perspective for you- (keep in mind, I'm a mechanic, and labor for me is free)

 

I own a 2000 Toyota Corolla. I've spent in the past year more on it for parts (remember, labor is free) than I spent to buy my '70 Mustang. I've replaced both o2 sensors, the catalyst, drive shafts, chain tensioner, belt tensioner, belt, refrigerant, etc.

 

Now, I don't think this is a crappy car. It's 9 years old and needed some maintenance.

 

Since buying the Mustang, I've spent $250 for a carb rebuild (fuel leak) and $40 on a distributor. Probably spent $50 on plugs/wires/cap/etc. So I'm probably into it for $350. Not bad, considering the work I did to it is relatively bigger than the work I had to do to the Corolla. If the Corolla ever needs comparable work (fuel induction and ignition) I'm looking at hundereds of dollars more. Injectors are pricey, coil packs are pricey, heck, the spark plugs cost more. The fuel pump on the Toyota is a couple hundered, the fuel pump on the Mustang is $30.

 

So when the Mustang does need work, which all cars will, the works is cheaper, and most people can do it with a basic set of hand tools.

[rd49221 14]

Will a 4.6 even fit without removing the shock towers? That would mean changing suspension and steering as well.

[rd49221 14]

Will a 4.6 even fit without removing the shock towers? That would mean changing suspension and steering as well.

[Handegard 10]

I have seen 4.6s and I don't think you have to remove the shock towers to put in a SOHC motor.

 

Fills the engine bay reeeal good, but just barely fits.

 

Now, to cram a DOHC in there... hehe.. I can dream huh?

 

Screw the 5.4.. I want a Triton V10...

[Handegard 10]

I have seen 4.6s and I don't think you have to remove the shock towers to put in a SOHC motor.

 

Fills the engine bay reeeal good, but just barely fits.

 

Now, to cram a DOHC in there... hehe.. I can dream huh?

 

Screw the 5.4.. I want a Triton V10...

[Fastbackmustang 10]

I failed to address this part.

 

No, your under the assumption that older motors are somehow inferior. The comments you have here are more or less generalizations about older cars. It's fair to say that a 40 year old car might have some things wrong with it. But remember, you're '99 has $300 worth of o2 sensors in it alone. Thats more than it costs for you to replace every fluid in the '70, change all the filters, replace the fuel pump, water pump, and belts, as well as a new pair of Windshield wipers.

 

I have a factory stock 302 in my '70. Do you know what I have to do to it everyday? I drive the piss out of it. Every day. Its very arduous.

 

Every 5k miles I change the oil. I change the air filter as needed. I maintain it. Probably less frequently than your 4.6 needs. Do you know when the last time I had to replace a o2 sensor was?

 

The worse part about a 1970 Mustang as far as reliability and drivability is the points distributor. You can easily buy a more modern distributor and be done with it.

 

2nd to that, it's the choke. If you have a properly set choke, it isn't a problem really.

 

Now, I'm not one of those nuts that prefers carbs and points with a side of pushrods. I just don't think they are problems.

 

To put this in perspective for you- (keep in mind, I'm a mechanic, and labor for me is free)

 

I own a 2000 Toyota Corolla. I've spent in the past year more on it for parts (remember, labor is free) than I spent to buy my '70 Mustang. I've replaced both o2 sensors, the catalyst, drive shafts, chain tensioner, belt tensioner, belt, refrigerant, etc.

 

Now, I don't think this is a crappy car. It's 9 years old and needed some maintenance.

 

Since buying the Mustang, I've spent $250 for a carb rebuild (fuel leak) and $40 on a distributor. Probably spent $50 on plugs/wires/cap/etc. So I'm probably into it for $350. Not bad, considering the work I did to it is relatively bigger than the work I had to do to the Corolla. If the Corolla ever needs comparable work (fuel induction and ignition) I'm looking at hundereds of dollars more. Injectors are pricey, coil packs are pricey, heck, the spark plugs cost more. The fuel pump on the Toyota is a couple hundered, the fuel pump on the Mustang is $30.

 

So when the Mustang does need work, which all cars will, the works is cheaper, and most people can do it with a basic set of hand tools.

 

hmm well I do keep good maintenance with both my cars. So your saying with an old car setup. all I would do is just change the oil when needed, keep air regulated, and just the basic tune up every 3-6 months. If this is possible than I'll go old school. But I spoke to many old timers who have driven these cars, heck there is one guy I know who owns a 67 and he says he's always messing around with it and wishes he can leave it alone for at least 2 weeks but he never can.

 

so once I get this car going (I'm first getting the interior all fixed up) what should I go from there?

(cheapest) route

 

I don't mind if my fastback is slow. Just as long it rides decent!

[Fastbackmustang 10]

I failed to address this part.

 

No, your under the assumption that older motors are somehow inferior. The comments you have here are more or less generalizations about older cars. It's fair to say that a 40 year old car might have some things wrong with it. But remember, you're '99 has $300 worth of o2 sensors in it alone. Thats more than it costs for you to replace every fluid in the '70, change all the filters, replace the fuel pump, water pump, and belts, as well as a new pair of Windshield wipers.

 

I have a factory stock 302 in my '70. Do you know what I have to do to it everyday? I drive the piss out of it. Every day. Its very arduous.

 

Every 5k miles I change the oil. I change the air filter as needed. I maintain it. Probably less frequently than your 4.6 needs. Do you know when the last time I had to replace a o2 sensor was?

 

The worse part about a 1970 Mustang as far as reliability and drivability is the points distributor. You can easily buy a more modern distributor and be done with it.

 

2nd to that, it's the choke. If you have a properly set choke, it isn't a problem really.

 

Now, I'm not one of those nuts that prefers carbs and points with a side of pushrods. I just don't think they are problems.

 

To put this in perspective for you- (keep in mind, I'm a mechanic, and labor for me is free)

 

I own a 2000 Toyota Corolla. I've spent in the past year more on it for parts (remember, labor is free) than I spent to buy my '70 Mustang. I've replaced both o2 sensors, the catalyst, drive shafts, chain tensioner, belt tensioner, belt, refrigerant, etc.

 

Now, I don't think this is a crappy car. It's 9 years old and needed some maintenance.

 

Since buying the Mustang, I've spent $250 for a carb rebuild (fuel leak) and $40 on a distributor. Probably spent $50 on plugs/wires/cap/etc. So I'm probably into it for $350. Not bad, considering the work I did to it is relatively bigger than the work I had to do to the Corolla. If the Corolla ever needs comparable work (fuel induction and ignition) I'm looking at hundereds of dollars more. Injectors are pricey, coil packs are pricey, heck, the spark plugs cost more. The fuel pump on the Toyota is a couple hundered, the fuel pump on the Mustang is $30.

 

So when the Mustang does need work, which all cars will, the works is cheaper, and most people can do it with a basic set of hand tools.

 

hmm well I do keep good maintenance with both my cars. So your saying with an old car setup. all I would do is just change the oil when needed, keep air regulated, and just the basic tune up every 3-6 months. If this is possible than I'll go old school. But I spoke to many old timers who have driven these cars, heck there is one guy I know who owns a 67 and he says he's always messing around with it and wishes he can leave it alone for at least 2 weeks but he never can.

 

so once I get this car going (I'm first getting the interior all fixed up) what should I go from there?

(cheapest) route

 

I don't mind if my fastback is slow. Just as long it rides decent!

[Handegard 10]

hmm well I do keep good maintenance with both my cars. So your saying with an old car setup. all I would do is just change the oil when needed, keep air regulated, and just the basic tune up every 3-6 months. If this is possible than I'll go old school.

 

What I'm saying is you need to stop thinking of it as a "old car setup" Yes, the car is old, yes, there are problems with old cars, but the 302 was in production STILL 8 years ago, after over a million built, and was installed in cars as recently as 2002. It is a GOOD motor.

 

The Modular motors are newer but they aren't better in this sense. Once you can stop equating newer with better, you'll love the crap out of your Mustang.

 

What motor is in your 1970 now? Whatever it is, yes, I am telling you, that unless the motor is damaged, you can have a perfectly reliable daily driver with very little work. And all the work it will need is no different than any new car will need, periodic fluid/filter changes and tune ups.

 

But I spoke to many old timers who have driven these cars, heck there is one guy I know who owns a 67 and he says he's always messing around with it and wishes he can leave it alone for at least 2 weeks but he never can.

 

Those old timers are probably the reason that they have problems. Maybe if they weren't out there "tinkering" every 2 weeks, they'd never have a problem.

 

I had a customer with the nicest '93 Dodge Dakota I'd ever seen. Every option from the factory, 318 auto, gorgeous two tone (blue/silver) and he used it to tow a 5th wheel.

 

Most of the things I fixed were a result of the stuf he'd installed. He was always doing crazy stuff like installing ducting and fans to "cool" his distributor or ECU, or adding a extra transmission fluid cooler, etc. The only thing I ever replaced that I don't think was directly his fault was a freeze plug.

 

Here is my stable-

1970 Mustang 302/2bbl/auto

1991 Probe GL 2.2L/NA/5spd

1985 F250 460/4bbl/auto

1994 Probe GT 2.5L/NA/5sp

2000 Toyota Corolla 1.8/NA/auto

 

You'll notice this list is almost chronological. Thats not how I planned it. It's actually laid out as car I've invested the least in to car I've invested the most in. I've driven the '91 Probe more than anything, and the '00 Toyota is second. Not counting purchase price or things that were directly my fault (like toasting the engine in my '85 with alcohol...) And these are just the cars I have that actually get driven. My '69 and the Jag don't.

 

 

I've also owned

 

1989 Probe LX 2.2/NA/5sd

1991 Probe GT 2.2L/Turbo/Auto

1993 Probe GT 2.5/NA/Auto

1998 C3500 5.7L/NA/Auto

 

And some others I can't think of.

 

Hands down, the Toyota has cost the most per mile to keep running, the Chevy 3500 gave me the most problems (but were usually the cheapest to fix), The '91 Probe has been a damn good car, and the 1970 Mustang has BY FAR been the least problematic of the cars. BY FAR. The carb was rebuilt because it had a fuel leak, and the distributor was replaced on recomendation from the guy that did the carb work (respected local carb/tune shop)

 

My truck has had a couple problems, but even when I *ahem* broke the motor (my fault completely, not the trucks) it still ran.

 

 

so once I get this car going (I'm first getting the interior all fixed up) what should I go from there?

(cheapest) route

 

You need to tell us what it's got under the hood now, and what your goals are. Do you just want a reliable daily driver? Do you want 300hp? 600hp track monster?

 

Once you get it on the road, it's time to start what I call the "payment plan" as frequently as I have the money I make a "payment" by buying whatever part I need, some chrome, plastic parts, etc. Eventually after enough time goes by, I'll have made enough "payments" that I'll have a like-new 1969 Mustang [*grin*]

 

 

I don't mind if my fastback is slow. Just as long it rides decent!

 

Unless the motor you have now has a inline six in it, it won't be slow. Alot of guys here like displacement, and have big crate motors, and it's all bad ass (hey, I drive a 466 cid after all) but my 1970's stock 302 with the stock 2bbl carb and the stock 3spd automatic will light up both tires and easily outrun anything I own except the '94 Probe GT.

 

And yeah guys, I know I have a little Probe addiction... I'm trying to cure it with Mustangs...

Edited May 11, 2009 by Handegard

[Handegard 10]

hmm well I do keep good maintenance with both my cars. So your saying with an old car setup. all I would do is just change the oil when needed, keep air regulated, and just the basic tune up every 3-6 months. If this is possible than I'll go old school.

 

What I'm saying is you need to stop thinking of it as a "old car setup" Yes, the car is old, yes, there are problems with old cars, but the 302 was in production STILL 8 years ago, after over a million built, and was installed in cars as recently as 2002. It is a GOOD motor.

 

The Modular motors are newer but they aren't better in this sense. Once you can stop equating newer with better, you'll love the crap out of your Mustang.

 

What motor is in your 1970 now? Whatever it is, yes, I am telling you, that unless the motor is damaged, you can have a perfectly reliable daily driver with very little work. And all the work it will need is no different than any new car will need, periodic fluid/filter changes and tune ups.

 

But I spoke to many old timers who have driven these cars, heck there is one guy I know who owns a 67 and he says he's always messing around with it and wishes he can leave it alone for at least 2 weeks but he never can.

 

Those old timers are probably the reason that they have problems. Maybe if they weren't out there "tinkering" every 2 weeks, they'd never have a problem.

 

I had a customer with the nicest '93 Dodge Dakota I'd ever seen. Every option from the factory, 318 auto, gorgeous two tone (blue/silver) and he used it to tow a 5th wheel.

 

Most of the things I fixed were a result of the stuf he'd installed. He was always doing crazy stuff like installing ducting and fans to "cool" his distributor or ECU, or adding a extra transmission fluid cooler, etc. The only thing I ever replaced that I don't think was directly his fault was a freeze plug.

 

Here is my stable-

1970 Mustang 302/2bbl/auto

1991 Probe GL 2.2L/NA/5spd

1985 F250 460/4bbl/auto

1994 Probe GT 2.5L/NA/5sp

2000 Toyota Corolla 1.8/NA/auto

 

You'll notice this list is almost chronological. Thats not how I planned it. It's actually laid out as car I've invested the least in to car I've invested the most in. I've driven the '91 Probe more than anything, and the '00 Toyota is second. Not counting purchase price or things that were directly my fault (like toasting the engine in my '85 with alcohol...) And these are just the cars I have that actually get driven. My '69 and the Jag don't.

 

 

I've also owned

 

1989 Probe LX 2.2/NA/5sd

1991 Probe GT 2.2L/Turbo/Auto

1993 Probe GT 2.5/NA/Auto

1998 C3500 5.7L/NA/Auto

 

And some others I can't think of.

 

Hands down, the Toyota has cost the most per mile to keep running, the Chevy 3500 gave me the most problems (but were usually the cheapest to fix), The '91 Probe has been a damn good car, and the 1970 Mustang has BY FAR been the least problematic of the cars. BY FAR. The carb was rebuilt because it had a fuel leak, and the distributor was replaced on recomendation from the guy that did the carb work (respected local carb/tune shop)

 

My truck has had a couple problems, but even when I *ahem* broke the motor (my fault completely, not the trucks) it still ran.

 

 

so once I get this car going (I'm first getting the interior all fixed up) what should I go from there?

(cheapest) route

 

You need to tell us what it's got under the hood now, and what your goals are. Do you just want a reliable daily driver? Do you want 300hp? 600hp track monster?

 

Once you get it on the road, it's time to start what I call the "payment plan" as frequently as I have the money I make a "payment" by buying whatever part I need, some chrome, plastic parts, etc. Eventually after enough time goes by, I'll have made enough "payments" that I'll have a like-new 1969 Mustang [*grin*]

 

 

I don't mind if my fastback is slow. Just as long it rides decent!

 

Unless the motor you have now has a inline six in it, it won't be slow. Alot of guys here like displacement, and have big crate motors, and it's all bad ass (hey, I drive a 466 cid after all) but my 1970's stock 302 with the stock 2bbl carb and the stock 3spd automatic will light up both tires and easily outrun anything I own except the '94 Probe GT.

 

And yeah guys, I know I have a little Probe addiction... I'm trying to cure it with Mustangs...

Edited May 11, 2009 by Handegard

[SlimeGold 69 15]

A 99 Mustang GT 4.6 L V8 is what I have.

 

I just want to get threw this project because I was told with these older type cars, they need to frequently be work on because something usually goes wrong within that very month. My thought is why not just replace newer equipment with older body. Have everything mounted on right where everything is in tact. However I was wondering is the engine bay big enough to fit everything a 99 gt has.

 

You say its cheaper to get a 302 and put it in...however wouldn't it need to be strongly maintain every day to make sure it runs well...also on top of that i was told that usually it mis fire when cranking up and needs maintaineance.

 

 

LOL..Dude... just keep your 99 GT. If you think maintaining a "old" 302 is hard wait untill you start trying to put that 4.6 in a classic. It's not just going to be a easy drop-in hook up deal that will be trouble free and run perfect for years to come. If you must have newer "fail-safe" technology, think about using a 87-93 5.0 stang as a doner and swap the whole drivetrain in your classic. But ALL cars need work sooner or later, no mater what's under the hood. If my old school 69 stops on me, chances are I can get it running with my little tool kit I carry around in the trunk. If a 99 GT stops and leaves you sitting on the side of the road, better start walking unless your pulling a trailor behind it full of diagnostic equipment, special tools, parts, and a 1000 page service manual for a good start. I'm not putting down EFI or over head cams, they are awesome and have kept the v8 alive, but keeping a classic running is not that big of a deal.

Edited May 11, 2009 by SlimeGold 69

[SlimeGold 69 15]

A 99 Mustang GT 4.6 L V8 is what I have.

 

I just want to get threw this project because I was told with these older type cars, they need to frequently be work on because something usually goes wrong within that very month. My thought is why not just replace newer equipment with older body. Have everything mounted on right where everything is in tact. However I was wondering is the engine bay big enough to fit everything a 99 gt has.

 

You say its cheaper to get a 302 and put it in...however wouldn't it need to be strongly maintain every day to make sure it runs well...also on top of that i was told that usually it mis fire when cranking up and needs maintaineance.

 

 

LOL..Dude... just keep your 99 GT. If you think maintaining a "old" 302 is hard wait untill you start trying to put that 4.6 in a classic. It's not just going to be a easy drop-in hook up deal that will be trouble free and run perfect for years to come. If you must have newer "fail-safe" technology, think about using a 87-93 5.0 stang as a doner and swap the whole drivetrain in your classic. But ALL cars need work sooner or later, no mater what's under the hood. If my old school 69 stops on me, chances are I can get it running with my little tool kit I carry around in the trunk. If a 99 GT stops and leaves you sitting on the side of the road, better start walking unless your pulling a trailor behind it full of diagnostic equipment, special tools, parts, and a 1000 page service manual for a good start. I'm not putting down EFI or over head cams, they are awesome and have kept the v8 alive, but keeping a classic running is not that big of a deal.

Edited May 11, 2009 by SlimeGold 69