ForceFed70 14 Report post Posted March 13, 2008 So, now that I've installed a turbo, I know it's only a matter of time before the engine and T5 let go. So I picked up a 351W engine to build. From what I've been told, it's a virgin block out of a 92 Pickup. However, the casting number (E9AE-6015-AA-14) says it's a 89 block from a full sized car. It only cost me a bottle of liquor, so I'm not too concerned. I haven't taken it apart yet, but from what I can see the block, crank, and heads appear to be in good shape. From what I've been told, the stock 351W bottom end is good to between 600-700 HP depending on the rods (Apparently the "football" rods are better). All I should need to do to handle 600HP is to install a good set of pistons, and switch to ARP rod bolts. I'd like to build this engine to handle 600HP, and I want to build it on the cheap because I spent all my money on the turbo setup. So I've got some questions.... 1) Where do you reccomend I go from here? Keep in mind that the goal is "strong enough to handle 600HP but done as cheaply as possible". I'd like to use parts from my other running 351W and/or stock parts as much as possible to keep the cost down. At 20PSI of boost, I think the stock components can flow enough to get close to my 600HP goal. I also plan to keep it below 6000rpm. 2) Is that a block heater in the freeze plug hole? Anyone know the part number for the cord? 3) Are there any parts from my '70 351W that will not swap over (I know pushrod length is different). 4) Where are the casting numbers for the heads? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted March 14, 2008 first off stock 80's windsor heads suck balls, ditch them for something else, even GT-40P heads, but i'd look for some cheap aftermarket aluminum heads, even used ones. i've seen a bunch of places on ebay selling the aluminum ford racing x-303/x-305 heads for like 900 bucks or so. also think about getting a set of aftermarket rods, scat and eagle both make decent forged i-beam rods for around 300 bucks or so. after that i'd go with a main cap girdle and a lifter valley girdle as well if you're going for 600hp. obviously forged pistons are a must as well at that level. stock crank will be fine but you should think about upgrading it anyway at some point. a custom grind roller cam will really help wring the most out of the turbo combo as well. i know this isn't what you really wanted to hear but if you're going for that much power and don't want to be building a new junkyard motor every year or less you really need to upgrade these parts at least. the aluminum heads will help a lot since they won't develop hot spots in the combustion chamber like iron heads and with 20psi of boost the last thing you want is detonation. what i would do is run the current motor as is for now and just take it easy so you don't kill it before you get the new one built. if all else fails you could build the hort block for now and use your original heads off the current motor in the car as they are a much better head then the 80's model heads and upgrade to aluminum heads later. here is the lifter valley girdle i was referring to http://www.horsepowersales.net/main.html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ForceFed70 14 Report post Posted March 15, 2008 Thanks B. Hmmm.. What about using the heads from my '70 351W block? They have had a mild port job, and have been machined for 1.90/1.6 valves. So long as I keep the compression fairly low when switching the pistons, I shouldn't have to be too concerned with detonation. The intercooler I'm using is fairly large and should help as well. Do you think the girdles are worth it? From what I've read, all they're good for it to hold everything together when the block breaks... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted March 15, 2008 yes the heads from the 70 motor will work fine, but i'd still consider switching them to aluminum at some point down the road, in any case they'll be tons better than the 87 truck heads, even if you happen to have the E7TE heads. if you do have the E7TE heads you could probably sell them and make some of your money back for the motor on them. if it looks like your compression is going to be too high with the 60cc chambers of the 70 heads you could still use a set of E7TE heads with a good port job since they have 64cc chambers and are about the nest best flowing heads to the 69/70 heads but the 69/70 heads will still outflow them by a large margin, especially if they've already had some port work done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
6T9Mach1 12 Report post Posted March 17, 2008 That block will handle 600hp pretty easily, but "600 hp" and "build it cheap" should not be in the same sentence. I would not use I-beam rods on that build if you want it to hold together. The Scat and Eagle SIR rods are only good to 500 hp. You will need H-beams for 600 hp. If you are going to all that work why not put a good set of heads on it? You can get a nice used set of aftermarket aluminum heads for the price it will cost to rework old iron heads. As mentioned, forged pistons are a necessity. Probe makes nice pistons at an affordable price. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fstbckadct 10 Report post Posted March 20, 2008 That block will handle 600hp pretty easily, but "600 hp" and "build it cheap" should not be in the same sentence. I would not use I-beam rods on that build if you want it to hold together. true story..they should not be in the same sentance if you want longevity out of the setup, 20lbs on stock gear is pretty hefty, isn't it? if you could get the right height piston i have some 6.250 H-beam rods that I could let go pretty inexpensively... Probe forged pieces. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites