C-6, 351w, 351m

[blackx 10]

Ok I have a 351W right now now with a C-6 sitting behind it.. I am curious if anybody would know if a 351M would still match up with the C-6.. I would just look at the two and figure it out for myself, but I am stuck in Korea for the next year with the army and can't really look at it.. Just trying to get everything together so I can start playing when I get home next year.

 

Also what is the biggest motor I can skinny in between the rails. Kind of looking at this right now too... Oh yeah by the way the 351W got blown up before I left...

 

Any help would be appreciated thanks..

 

Adam

:tank:

[Pakrat 1,043]

Mmm I love Korean Barbecue! Well, except for dog but those Korean tacos wrapped in lettuce, yummy yummy.

 

Anyway I'm no 351W expert, Bnickel can help with that but I am pretty sure you really don't want to use an M engine. Unless I'm mistaken they are no performer like a W or C.

 

Back in 69' they shoe horned a 429 in there so I'd say that about maxes it out unless you are into adding a rack and loosing the shock towers.

[blackx 10]

Ok I am retarded and just looked at my post.. I was supposed to mean I had a Cleaveland not a Windsor. Sorry I was thinking about my Jeep. So I have a Cleaveland with at C-6 not a W.

[351carlo 10]

Welcome. A 351w is a small block (I use that term loosely), and as such has a small block bellhousing. The 351m on the other hand is the smaller brother to the 400m and the modified family uses the larger bellhousing. They will not interchange. I would not recommend the use of a 351m, and would strongly recommend rebuilding the 351w to a 408 stroker if you are looking for horsepower via cubic inches.

 

As far as how big.... how big do you want to go? A 385 series (429/460) can fit, but it's not the easiest and does add weight. If you want to spend some coin, but avoid having to change transmissions, I would build the 408 stroker with a set of aluminum heads. You'd have great power, be able to retain your C6 transmission (although you may want to freshen it with some upgraded parts for your new found power), and still have the lighter small block platform.

 

And you say the 351w was blown, what actually blew?

 

Thanks for serving in the Army :punk:

[Pakrat 1,043]

Ok I am retarded and just looked at my post.. I was supposed to mean I had a Cleaveland not a Windsor. Sorry I was thinking about my Jeep. So I have a Cleaveland with at C-6 not a W.

 

Ok in that case then the sight owner bswor is probably your best source for knowledge even though Bnickel is still a guru of ultimate knowledge and still probably knows the answer. I'm guessing though that since a cleavland is more like a hemi design then traditional ford V8's it's probably less compatable and I'm still not sure an M is your best choice.

[351carlo 10]

Well a cleveland with a C6, Cleveland's are still the small block bellhousing, and more my taste personally.

 

Let me know what blew up, I have parts sitting around. Including a fresh block, crank, bearings and cams.

[bnickel 10,004]

yep W and C use same belhousing. M and 400 use the 429/460 bellhousing. i've blown up a couple of clevelands and a couple of windsors. the windsors seemed to have stay together better than the clevelands did. all the blocks were destroyed but the windsor lower end stuff was reusable the cleveland stuff was not.

[351carlo 10]

That's odd b, what caused the failures?

 

The only time I've seen C's fail is under extreme stresses. Even then most could have been prevented with a main girdle, 4 bolt splayed mains or a half/full fill.

 

I have a 2 bolt block, DOAE rods, 4MA crank, L2379 TRW's with no fill and I feel safe spraying this with a 125-150 shot. I don't see this motor giving me any problems. If it does, thats what the extra block and crank are for...

 

blackx, if you need to start from scratch (As in the motor is trashed) I would go with the 351W motor for sure. If you've got good heads or a good block, I'd stick it out with the Cleveland. Then again, I'm a big fan of the cleveland.

 

Here is a forum to read and get some information from:

http://www.network54.com/Forum/119419/

[blackx 10]

Thanks for all the info so far...

 

As of right now this is what I know.. Extreme stress. I guess you could say that may have been a factor:devil2: Stock oil pan no baffles and drag racing losing oil pressure until settled yeah that could have been part of it too. But from what I know is that the rear two cyl are dead and knocking like a stuck lifter.. It's farther down though than just a lifter. It is more noticable on the drivers side than passengers side. And wow does it smoke like a chimney.. Put it this way I pretty much had to floor it to try and get it onto a dovetailed trailor. Well this was backing it on too.. I was also told that I lost compression in the rear two cyl also. So that is where I sit.

 

The reason I want to keep the C6 is cause it's been kinda torn up allready and now has all high performance clutches, shift kit and 3000 stall converter on it right now..

 

For the motor the only really good thing I can think of on it is the HEI dist set up and the 4V heads and 4 barrel intake man.

[bnickel 10,004]

That's odd b, what caused the failures?

 

The only time I've seen C's fail is under extreme stresses. Even then most could have been prevented with a main girdle, 4 bolt splayed mains or a half/full fill.

 

I have a 2 bolt block, DOAE rods, 4MA crank, L2379 TRW's with no fill and I feel safe spraying this with a 125-150 shot. I don't see this motor giving me any problems. If it does, thats what the extra block and crank are for...

 

blackx, if you need to start from scratch (As in the motor is trashed) I would go with the 351W motor for sure. If you've got good heads or a good block, I'd stick it out with the Cleveland. Then again, I'm a big fan of the cleveland.

 

Here is a forum to read and get some information from:

http://www.network54.com/Forum/119419/

 

don't know what happened exactly to the first clevie all i know is that there was a rod literally sticking through the side of the block and through that window in the block you could see the broken crank. it was nothing crazy when it happened either just shifted from 2nd to 3rd (auto) and BAM smoke everywhere.

 

the second cleve, i was driving home from my job about 65 miles from home doing about 70mph, just cruising on the highway, and alll of a sudden it lost power and made kind of a backfire sounding noise, had to keep my foot it in to keep moving but it made the remaining 40 miles or so home. we tore it the down next weekend and it spit both front rods. they both broke at the big end of the rod but the rod ends were both still attached to the crank. shoved both pistons up in the cylinders and split both cylinder walls, no windows in this block though. the crank got bent on the front journal so the balancer wobbled around pretty bad, i'm amazed it made it home. still have no clue why the big end of the rods snapped like that though. both of the clevies were bone stock 2v motors but the second one had a performer intake and 600 holley. i'm assuming it was bad rods on the 2nd one because we couldn't find anything else wrong not even a bent valve.