What to paint and not paint blue.

[bnickel 10,004]

nevrmind, i see now, that the holes are drilled at different locations relative to the cobra logo block. at first i thoought they were drilled at equidistant fomr the block and the square end was making it look out of proportion. DUH!!!

 

yeah you could cut the part with holes off completely and re-drill them so they would align correctly. i think that would be the best way to go or just use some of that unibody adhesive to attach them to the pan and no bolts at all, that way you wouldn't have to worry about how to seal the holes for the screws either. then just blend the thing into the pan with some epoxy.

 

you know, now that you got me thinking about this whole thing i may just do exactly what i told you do when i get that canton pan. instead of cutting my extra set of valve covers i'll just get the plain finned ac cover and cut the right section of the fins out and use the unibody adhesive to attach the plates to the pan. hey Pak, that's a great idea, i like it. LOL, i think probably still cut up my spare vc's and use the powered by ford part with the surrounding fins on the pan.

[Pakrat 1,043]

Whew, I was feeling so stupid not catching your drift there for a second. I actually never planned on drilling my oil pan and screwing it in, I figured I would have to put fake heads in the hole and I planned to adhere them on anyway.

 

Now you have me thinking even further, I could cut up one cobra for each side of the pan and then use a plain finned one on the front to make it look like it wraps around? If it's wide enough that is.

 

I do hate having to cut up brand new items though, makes me squimish. Still a real Cobra pan is like $350, the canton one is $190 and for like $80 I could get by with this for now, have a custom look no one else has and I could always remove them eventually if/when I buy a Canton and mod that the same way for a still cutom and cooler look!

[bnickel 10,004]

Whew, I was feeling so stupid not catching your drift there for a second. I actually never planned on drilling my oil pan and screwing it in, I figured I would have to put fake heads in the hole and I planned to adhere them on anyway.

 

Now you have me thinking even further, I could cut up one cobra for each side of the pan and then use a plain finned one on the front to make it look like it wraps around? If it's wide enough that is.

 

I do hate having to cut up brand new items though, makes me squimish. Still a real Cobra pan is like $350, the canton one is $190 and for like $80 I could get by with this for now, have a custom look no one else has and I could always remove them eventually if/when I buy a Canton and mod that the same way for a still cutom and cooler look!

 

oh, so you were only going to put one on the front then, huh? i guess it was me, actually, who wasn't following.

[Pakrat 1,043]

oh, so you were only going to put one on the front then, huh? i guess it was me, actually, who wasn't following.

 

Well, no I was thinking either one on the front or one on each side orignally but now you had me thinking three with a plain in the front to make a wrap around.

[bnickel 10,004]

Well, no I was thinking either one on the front or one on each side orignally but now you had me thinking three with a plain in the front to make a wrap around.

 

 

ok, gotcha. i did catch the wraparound part in the last post it was before that that i was confused.

[Pakrat 1,043]

oh, so you were only going to put one on the front then, huh? i guess it was me, actually, who wasn't following.

 

Back to square one. After a closer examination of my stock oil pan I just realized that the left and right sides are a little different. One side is straight with two vertical dimples and the other bends in a bit with three dimples. I know you still can't see both sides at the same time but it might look funny. So maybe just one in the front is best after all, cheaper too. Until I spring for the canton one then I can always buy another cover cut the same way and do both sides.

[bnickel 10,004]

Back to square one. After a closer examination of my stock oil pan I just realized that the left and right sides are a little different. One side is straight with two vertical dimples and the other bends in a bit with three dimples. I know you still can't see both sides at the same time but it might look funny. So maybe just one in the front is best after all, cheaper too. Until I spring for the canton one then I can always buy another cover cut the same way and do both sides.

 

 

that's why a t-pan would be so perfect :punk:

[Pakrat 1,043]

that's why a t-pan would be so perfect :punk:

 

Show me this T-Pan you speak of. (I'm all internet searched out lately. we've had several days of rain and now that it has cleared up it's time to leave the keyboard and head back out to the garage!)

[bnickel 10,004]

Show me this T-Pan you speak of. (I'm all internet searched out lately. we've had several days of rain and now that it has cleared up it's time to leave the keyboard and head back out to the garage!)

 

http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/pans/road_race/ford_front_sump.html

 

just scroll down the page a little and you'll see them. 7qt, 8qt, 9qt take your pick. the 8qt is even aluminum

[351carlo 10]

I have the 15-710. It's nice to have the extra capacity and the baffles.

[Pakrat 1,043]

the 8qt is even aluminum

 

Ouch on the price B!!!!!! I might as well just get the Cobra one. Extra capacity is nice but then I need a new pick up to.

[bnickel 10,004]

Ouch on the price B!!!!!! I might as well just get the Cobra one. Extra capacity is nice but then I need a new pick up to.

 

 

you can get the 7gt pan from different place for around 200 bucks or less. the last time i priced the cobra ones they were around 300 bones.

 

you could also get a milodon or moroso pan for a bunch cheaper too. i'll see if i can find some for you.

[bnickel 10,004]

you can get the 7gt pan from different place for around 200 bucks or less. the last time i priced the cobra ones they were around 300 bones.

 

you could also get a milodon or moroso pan for a bunch cheaper too. i'll see if i can find some for you.

 

 

here are some moroso pans

 

http://moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=15015

[bnickel 10,004]

here are some moroso pans

 

http://moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=15015

 

 

the moroso 7qt pan from summit is 200 bucks.

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1∂=MOR%2D20502&N=700+4294840045+4294908331+4294840126+4294892171+115&autoview=sku

[Pakrat 1,043]

Hmmm cool. I think I am going to give my custom stock one a shot first though as I can do it even after it's all back together. Which remins me I have to order that Canton lid today.

[bnickel 10,004]

Hmmm cool. I think I am going to give my custom stock one a shot first though as I can do it even after it's all back together. Which remins me I have to order that Canton lid today.

 

well get to it then

[Pakrat 1,043]

well get to it then

 

Well, I was busy trying to locate my sunpro but OK.

[bnickel 10,004]

Well, I was busy trying to locate my sunpro but OK.

 

well i did say no hurry on the tach. quite honestly i think i'm gonna put it in the jeep anyway. it might go in the stang though, not sure yet.

[Pakrat 1,043]

well i did say no hurry on the tach. quite honestly i think i'm gonna put it in the jeep anyway. it might go in the stang though, not sure yet.

 

Don't put it in the stang and sell it off, it'll have sentiment and shit!

 

What kinda jeep you got?

[bnickel 10,004]

Don't put it in the stang and sell it off, it'll have sentiment and shit!

 

What kinda jeep you got?

 

93 cherokee. 2dr, 2WD. and almost 200k on the clock!!!

[Pakrat 1,043]

93 cherokee. 2dr, 2WD. and almost 200k on the clock!!!

 

Man, I still miss my 90' Cherokee 2dr 4x4, inline 6, toughest little MOFO on the planet! I think the 2dr while uncommon was just so perfect looking. Most of the ones I ever see are stripped down utility cars like for gas or elec companies and they have a manual and no accesories. This one was auto with some nice options even a car phone but for some reason no AC. I had bought it used from the VP of my work at the time in 94, it had 156k highway miles though. He was moving to Hong Kong and I needed another car badly and was trying to find some kind of sport ute, he needed to sell in a hurry. If I recall the market value at the time was somewhere around 11-12k, way out of my range. So he says to me, tell you what, give me 1k down and I will give you 14 deposit slips to my checking account. You deposit $200 a month for the next 14 and we are even! Needless to say the words OK were coming out of my mouth before he could even finish. I was concerned about the milage a little but could not pass it up. Well since it was paid for by 96' I continued to make the payments to myself for the next 4 years to make my dream come true and finally buy my 69' Mustang in 2000. Except for spending a few dollars here and there on a Safari bar, fog lights, big tires and such. The plan was to semi retire the Jeep to winter and fall duty and use the vert in the spring and summer. Well, 2001 came and I was suddenly made an incredible job offer and found myself moving to Texas! At that time it now had 278k miles on it and of course still no AC but it ran great still. I did not see that working out in Texas at all and sadly made the hard choice to sell it to a friend. Cosmetically it was beautiful, no rust bubbles and OK paint that polished up nice enough with a very clean interior. I got 2k for it and used that as money down on the used 99' V6 Stang I bought in Texas as my DD.

 

Had I only known my wife would hate it and we would be back in New England 14 months later I would have gladly stored it instead and redone it from top to bottom. I did try to buy it back when I returned as a second project but it now had 325k on it, ran like shit and was battered, bruised and rusting everywhere.:frown:

 

In hind sight not knowing my Stang would be totaled 2 years later I guess I made the right choice and my 04' Grand Cherokee Limited is a nice Jeep too but I still miss her from time to time and wish I still had it.

 

Sorry, didn't mean to get all novel but you just brouught back some awesome memmories.

[bnickel 10,004]

well mine is one of those srtippers you spoke of. did not have many options. in fact i don't think ac was even an option it may have been optional to delete the ac though. mine has ac, automatic, carpet and cloth seats. base would have been manual trans, rubber mat and vinyl seats. it only had an am/fm radio originally too, not even a cassette. :eek: oh and it does the HO 4.0l too. yeah i do love the jeep but he's starting to show his age (daughter and i named him Pepe). if i'm going to keep it much longer i've got to do a full suspension rebuild including new springs front and back and install some fram cannectors because the unibody is actually cracking down the middle. both door B-pillars are cracking from the bottom up. that's common on 2 dr chero's though, that's why there is a fix for it. the company that makes it calls it a suspension connector because it attaches at the forward leaf spring mount and at the upper and lower control arm in the front. i still call it a frame connector, but whatever. anyway, i need to get a set of those and have them welded in and the springs and shocks and it should be good for another 200k

[Pakrat 1,043]

well mine is one of those srtippers you spoke of. did not have many options. in fact i don't think ac was even an option it may have been optional to delete the ac though. mine has ac, automatic, carpet and cloth seats. base would have been manual trans, rubber mat and vinyl seats. it only had an am/fm radio originally too, not even a cassette. :eek: oh and it does the HO 4.0l too. yeah i do love the jeep but he's starting to show his age (daughter and i named him Pepe). if i'm going to keep it much longer i've got to do a full suspension rebuild including new springs front and back and install some fram cannectors because the unibody is actually cracking down the middle. both door B-pillars are cracking from the bottom up. that's common on 2 dr chero's though, that's why there is a fix for it. the company that makes it calls it a suspension connector because it attaches at the forward leaf spring mount and at the upper and lower control arm in the front. i still call it a frame connector, but whatever. anyway, i need to get a set of those and have them welded in and the springs and shocks and it should be good for another 200k

 

They are built to last with proper care, that's for sure. Did you mean Pepe as in a Mexican or Pep'ere as in an old frenchmen?

[bnickel 10,004]

They are built to last with proper care, that's for sure. Did you mean Pepe as in a Mexican or Pep'ere as in an old frenchmen?

 

 

mexican, a lot of the parts on the cherokee are made in mexico and this is west texas after all.