Yikes! Compression test results...

[R4K 10]

Cylinder - Dry/Wet(if necessary)

1 - 120

2 - 124

3 - 112

4 - 70/81

5 - 122

6 - 115

7 - 87/80

8 - 62/110

 

Sooo...rings on 4 & 8, and valves on 4 & 7?

[gsxrken 21]

Looks like it. Sometimes worn cam lobes can hurt numbers too, but they wouldn't improve by squirting oil in the sprak plug hole.

Your engine stand is going to find out just how heavy an FE is. :)

[bnickel 10,004]

Looks like it. Sometimes worn cam lobes can hurt numbers too, but they wouldn't improve by squirting oil in the sprak plug hole.

Your engine stand is going to find out just how heavy an FE is. :)

 

 

a good trick i learned for dealing with the weight of the FE while on the stand is to put a block of wood between the oil pan and the leg of the stand, it will help distribute the weight a little more evenly while pull the top end down, also helps when reassembly time comes too.

[R4K 10]

Ugh, that task seems so daunting! Y'all have seen some of the stupid-ass questions I've asked about things as simple as suspension uprades, I just don't know if I'm up to rebuilding an entire engine! Or driving a car that has an engine that I have worked on, lol. :cursing:

 

I guess it's a Rite of Passage, eh? :sneaky2:

 

So, uh, any recommendations on where to pick up a reliable (and FE-sturdy) engine stand? (on the bright side, there's a VMFer I met who has an engine hoist and a ring compressor he's offered the use of, as well as a helping hand and moral support (beer)).

 

And if my nerve should fail, what's a ballpark on getting somebody knowledgeable to rebuild the engine?

[Spoofty 10]

Most auto parts stores carry engine stands. By the time you pay shipping from Jegs or Summit your not saving any$$$$$. I got my last one as Advance Auto parts. It was only $43 but it is a 700lb stand. They also have 1000lb stands as well these are usually $80-$150. FE engines are supposed to be somewhere between 600-700lb depending on intake, heads and so on. I would get the 1000lb stand to be on the safe side and I would still prop the front with a 2X4.

Personally I would rebuild it my self. It will cost twice as much to pay some one else to do it. And the satifaction of driving your own motor is better than the money you'll save.

When the first motor I built let go I was actually happy because I would get to do it again. And each engine gets better and more powerful.:devil2:

[bnickel 10,004]

the first motor built lasted for almost 100,000 miles on the short block, i did re-do the top end around 60k and put in a new cam at that time. once it started getting really worn out i let someone else build the short block for me and within 3500 miles it chucked a rod through the side of the block, turns out he didn't torque the rod nuts correctly, he used the torque specs for a 302 not a 351. i built the current one

[R4K 10]

Man, you guys almost have me convinced!

 

(And then I remember that when I change Valve Covers, I have to buy 2 sets of gaskets because I always overtorque them the first time. Or try to slide them under the plug wires and smear RTV all over my valve stems and rocker arms. Or something else equally stupid.) :001_rolleyes:

[mymach 0]

This is easy for me to say since I've built more engines than I can count, but it's not really that difficult. For a first-timer I'd recommend getting one of those "How to Rebuild..." books and actually read it and get familiar with what you're going to be seeing and doing. Although it will be tempting, DO NOT cut corners to save a few bucks because it WILL cost you later. Do it right, do it once.

 

Learn all you can, pay attention during the process and don't get in a hurry. It's just nuts and bolts. Get all the components into spec, get everything in the right place and tighten everything according to the proper pattern and torque. We're here to help if you need us!

[R4K 10]

Yeah, I'm stuck somewhere in between "c'mon, how hard could it really be?" and "OMG what have I gotten myself into?", hehe.

 

I have already picked up "How to rebuild big-block ford engines" by Steve Christ (all the FE guys swear by this book), and also on recommendations "Ford Performance" by Pat Ganahl. I actually had both of these before my current problems started, just because I wanted to get a feel for what was gonna need to be done when the inevitable came (I've been fighting with oil leaks and consumption and smoking since I got the car, so I knew the day was gonna come).

 

I'm gonna' try to run by a rebuild shop that was recommended tomorrow on my lunch, and once I start talking $$ with them, I'm sure this DIY approach will sound more palatable, lol.

[Spoofty 10]

When I built my first motor at 18, all I had done was change spark plugs and an oil change(needed help with both). My dad took me through it step by step. That got me hooked. Building engines is my favorite thing now. I've lost count of how many I've done now.

[R4K 10]

Well, that's part of the reason I wanted this ole beast, is to be able to work on it and learn. I was just hoping to pick up an extra old block and rebuild that one while this one was still running, lol.

 

But hey, deal with the hand you're dealt, I guess, hehe.

 

It's hard not to start looking at all these extra secksy upgrade parts...I'm thinking it's probably best not to start putting $700 scat 3.980" 428 crankshaft and such into my first rebuild.

 

Not to mention I'd like to keep this as cheap as possible, or else bnickel's really gonna be in trouble with my wife! :thumbup:

[Spoofty 10]

That's the only bad thing about the FE, the parts for it are $$$$$$$:blink: . I have a 390 FE in my laundry room waiting for the right project. I'm not sure how far a 390 can be bored (428 piston might be pushing it). but you could make it a 410 pretty easy. A 410 has the 390 bore and the 428 stroke. The 410 was a pretty rare motor. By the time you bore the block .030 it would be about 415 maybe. Torque monster:thumbup: . You can use your stock rods with the 410 pistons. These are pretty much my plans:yes: .

[indianfiremach 170]

I'm getting my 390 engine rebuilt for $1200, seems like the standard price around here. Some things I'd rather write a check for and put my skills toward some other part of the car I'm more comfortable with.

[bnickel 10,004]

well since i'm alreay in trouble with the ol' lady you'll need a set of Dove manufacturing heads, a blue thunder intake, a forged steel crank form callies, arias pistons, a set of dove rods, a complete solid roller kit, comp shaft mount roller rockers, hooker super comp headers, complete MSD ignition system, king demon carb, hand fabricated aluminum valve covers with pressurised valve train oiling, an original CJ oil cooler setup and i think that pretty much has the small stuff covered.

 

well guys how'd i do? :clap:

[R4K 10]

Jeez, bnickel, you're trying to not only get me divorced, but killed! :blink:

 

See, that's my problem...I'd be tempted to try and get all that stuff, put it together poorly, and then blow it all up real good! :clap:

 

 

Indianfiremach, that's my thoughts too. I wish I could find a rebuilder around here that I could trust to rebuild for that $$. Hell, I'm having trouble finding a rebuilder at all. I did find one guy who would basically pull the engine and ship it off to an engine remanufacturing shop in TN (Grooms engines), then reinstall. Basically the same as Jasper Motors, but they seem to be a little better priced (getting the engine and pull/install labor for same price as just the engine at Jasper). 18 month unlimited mileage warranty, and a lifetime warranty replacement (so one free lifetime "blow-up" hehe). But their price is about 3x what you're quoting, *sigh*.

 

I knew prices would make me think real hard about giving it a try myself, but having a new baby just doesn't leave the time I'd need to do it. This thing would be down forever.

[bnickel 10,004]

Jeez, bnickel, you're trying to not only get me divorced, but killed! :blink:

 

See, that's my problem...I'd be tempted to try and get all that stuff, put it together poorly, and then blow it all up real good! :clap:

 

 

Indianfiremach, that's my thoughts too. I wish I could find a rebuilder around here that I could trust to rebuild for that $$. Hell, I'm having trouble finding a rebuilder at all. I did find one guy who would basically pull the engine and ship it off to an engine remanufacturing shop in TN (Grooms engines), then reinstall. Basically the same as Jasper Motors, but they seem to be a little better priced (getting the engine and pull/install labor for same price as just the engine at Jasper). 18 month unlimited mileage warranty, and a lifetime warranty replacement (so one free lifetime "blow-up" hehe). But their price is about 3x what you're quoting, *sigh*.

 

I knew prices would make me think real hard about giving it a try myself, but having a new baby just doesn't leave the time I'd need to do it. This thing would be down forever.

 

hey i'm already in trouble right? might as well go out ya know

[mymach 0]

R4K, if ya just lived in my area I'd build your engine for ya...for a nominal fee of course...lol As much as I like to, I never seem able to help out my fellow 'Stang lovers because nobody lives anywhere near me!!

[R4K 10]

Hehe, well the offer is appreciated anyway, mymach. :punk:

 

I wish we lived closer, too, I'd be more than happy to pay you good money to just have somebody help me out and walk me through the rebuild to protect me from myself, lol. It's something I've always wanted to do (and one of the reasons I got into this hobby, having been deprived of learning this stuff when I was younger...my dad is a great man, but was/is a "take it to the shop" kind of guy, hehe), but I was hoping to get a whole lot more driving out of this engine before I had to do so, hehe.

 

I may still give it the ole' Army try. I may have to, as I haven't even broached the subject of getting a remanned engine with my wife yet. When I do, I'm sure it will result in her spinning around on her eyebrows spittin' out wooden nickels. :taz:

[R4K 10]

http://online.hiperformer.com/engines/ford-mustang-rebuilt_engines-for_390lb.html

 

Hrm, looks like I can get a remanned longblock 390 for $1385.

 

Core charge: $149

Shipping: $255 (not bad at all for coast-to-coast, IMO)

Sub-Total: $1789

 

And I would still have a spare 390 longblock around to rebuild at my leisure.

 

Add on to that:

 

Comp Cams 268H cam, lifter and valve springs kit: $360 (which I bet they could install in the block, they mention they can do custom builds)

Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake: $300 (for the one I, ah, destroyed)

Hoist, load balancer and Engine stand from Northern Tools: $300 (to keep the other block around to work on, and to remove and install the new block)

 

Total: $2749/$2549 if I just borrow the hoist from VMFer buddy across the street

 

That's just a little more than half of what I'd be paying for that full-deal refurb from the crazy performance guy.

 

It's like I'm saving money just by buying a new longblock! It's almost crazy like a buy-one-get-one-free sale!

[Spoofty 10]

Did I see that corectly. 100000 mi/ 7year warranty.:blink: That's great. I'm sure the warranty will change with the addition of the performance parts. But that still sound good.:clap:

[R4K 10]

Did I see that corectly. 100000 mi/ 7year warranty.:blink: That's great. I'm sure the warranty will change with the addition of the performance parts. But that still sound good.:clap:

 

There's always fine print, hehe.

 

Passenger car and light truck long blocks are covered for 7 years or 70,000 miles. If failure of a long block should occur during the first twenty-four months and it is determined the failure is due to a defect in workmanship or parts installed by S &S, we (S &S Engine) will replace or repair the defective unit to the original buyer. During the balance of the warranty, Supplier will replace the long block at one-half of the current retail price.