SM69Mach
-
Content Count
798 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
5
Posts posted by SM69Mach
-
-
Definitely call Shaun at Street or Track. I have stock power Disc in front and Drum out back. I used Shaun's kit and used the Disc spindle, and everything went on perfect. I upgraded the rear to disc as well mainly for ease of maintenance and appearence, but feel they do function better than the drums, for me it was difficult to get the drums adjusted properly to work at their optimum. I just used the stock Master cylinder and just an adjustable proportioning valve for the rears and it works great. Good luck!!!!
-
-
AWESOME!!!! Glad to hear it worked out for ya!!!
-
That looks awesome in all black. Nice ride!!!
-
it wouldn't take much to cause a bind like that, if it is slipping of thise spline in the front it still may appear that it is enggage properly and that added inch or so is needed to make it all fit and not bind up. I hope you get this figured out, that can be frustrating.
-
I slide the t/c into the transmission first everytime. both input shafts go in and the smallest input shaft i put in the t/c first and make sure it goes in. then slide the rest of the t/c onto shaft #2. Once that is done I raise the transmission up to the flywheel and dust cover and when it's put together the engine won't turn with a ratchet. I'm still at a loss.Are you sure it isnt slipping off the input shaft as you mate it to the motor? Other than that I am at a loss as well.
-
Damn. I guess that would make a bit of a noise.....
-
I think there are differetn size input shafts on the C4's so you need to make sure that the TQ is the correct size to fit. If it isnt going all the way on the shaft and engaging the pump then it is certianly going to bind.
-
Yeah I was given that impression as well initially, that's exactly why I wanted it clarified before giving an opinion. I agree that the 428 is likely worth more to someone else than it is to you, in fact there was recently a posting for an original 428 car missing the drivetrain. I would get the date codes off it and consider selling, it wouldn't last long, the right person is probably out there already looking and just waiting in the shadows for someone like you to come along.Modify your car guilt free and a stroked 351W power plant would be a great choice.
+1 Agree withthis 100%
-
A 10" wheel won't work, because the backspacing required to keep it from hitting the leaf spring will cause it to stick out past the fender lip.I cant speak for a 15X10, but I am running a 18X10 on mine, and while it is close to the Leaf spring and I rolled the fender lip, it all fits.
-
Help him where you can, but sold "as is" pretty much sums it up.
Good Luck, hope it all works out.
-
I think if you search around you will see quite a bit of info in regards to tire size and wheel widths and will and wont work. Depends on how much work needs to be done, but you can get a decent size tire in the rear if you like that look. I personally am running a 305 out back.
-
Have you considered any of the other small block Ford engines? The 347 with 450hp is a very solid motor and putting a 5-6 speed behind it and tuned properly with either EFI or Carb would be very reliable and get decent MPG as well. Plus that would drop right in and no issues with the structure of the vehicle. There are even larger 351 based motors (with more power) that would drop in just as easily as well.
-
When it goes into gear is does it engage hard or is it a smooth transition from Park to Drive?
-
Yes, standard width Rear End.
-
It wasn't bad, but I I was going to replace alot of parts anyway, plus I wanted the discs out back , hence the upgrade. I dont believe I had the rears adjusted properly cause there wasnt much wear on the pads from when I had replaced them before. MUCH better stopping power now, no question. It wasnt terrible before, but it pretty good now.
-
Not saying this is the same as what you have, but I had a similar issue last year. I checked the carb, vacum, plugs, timing etc. Everything always seem to be fine, at idle, in Park or Neutral it was fine. As soon as I put it in gear it would immediately shut off. After working through a couple of things, it ended up being a bad Torque Converter. Once I changed that out, problem solved.
-
It still has the cleveland. I am still in debate whether it will be a procharged 393w or a built 390 stroker. I keep leaning towards the 393W since I have alot of parts, and already have extra procharger brackets, but this is a cruiser so don't need stupid horsepower. I already have a car for that, so may just end up flipping a coin.I hear ya. That would be a tough call. I didn't have any extra parts sitting around to make me sway either way. And like you said a blown 393w would be pretty damn sweet. Keep posting up pics, car is looking great!!!
-
-
Paint has been ordered! OEM Acapulco Blue it is!!!:clap::clap:
I stayed with that color as well when deciding what to do. I changed up the stripes a little and got rid of the hood pin striping, just to make it a little different, but LOVE the color.
-
Looking good. Read though the whole post. What motor did you end up going with? I was in the same boat with an S code and decided to keep the 390 jsut for a bit more orginality. Plus it is different.
-
It is possible, but there will need to be some changes to the motor itelf as well, such as standard roation Water Pump, or conversion to Serpentine belt, Front sump oil pan and oil pick up. Are you talking about converting over the Fuel Injetion as well? If so you would just pull over the computer and harness and make sure all the parts come with it to make it work. Its not a simple bolt in and go, but it certainly can be done.
-
8" wide wheel is about the max you can fit in the fronts. You'll want a net backspace of about 4.5" in order to clear the balljoint. For example, I purchased the 17x8 Bullitt wheels from American Muscle and they have +30mm offset/5.72" backspacing. I purchased billet 1" wheel spacers to reduce the backspacing to 4.72". The tires are 245/45/17.In the back, to be safe a 9" wheel and 275 tires would be recommended if you don't want to get into clearancing the wheelhouse. I believe about a 5.5" to 6" backspace will clear everything fine with the 9" wheel. I'm putting 10.5" wheels and 315 tires, but will take a bit of work to keep them from rubbing.
That is great info, and I would second everything here. I tried a wider setup on the front and it jsut didnt work out. The rear is safe with a 9" if you want to go that wide. I am running 10in wide rear, but it does take some work on clearencing the wheel wells a bit, and not jsut bolting on and go.
Good luck, there are a lot of options out there.
-
Yes it is a PB set up. I did use an adjustable valve out back. This picture was taken as I was putting it together. I ended up mounting on a bracket on the rear.
Disc or Drum spindles, best upgrade options
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
Definitely call Shaun at Street or Track. I have stock power Disc in front and Drum out back. I used Shaun's kit and used the Disc spindle, and everything went on perfect. I upgraded the rear to disc as well mainly for ease of maintenance and appearence, but feel they do function better than the drums, for me it was difficult to get the drums adjusted properly to work at their optimum. I just used the stock Master cylinder and just an adjustable proportioning valve for the rears and it works great. Good luck!!!!