Jump to content

Fordzilla06

Members
  • Content Count

    18
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by Fordzilla06


  1. I bought a set of 18x8’s off of a guy here in Houston that came off of a 2014 mustang.  They obviously don’t fit, front or rear because they are too wide.    I need about a 1/4” in the rear to make them fit and will most likely need to run ifs, which I was planning on doing, in the front.  Instead of running wheel spacers, has anyone ever used a 9” out of a 71-71 mustang or Torino to allow for the extra clearance in the rear. What are yalls solutions? Or should I just run wheel spacers?


  2. 8 hours ago, mustangstofear said:

    99% of all our sales go with our MTF engine panels, regardless of which suspension they choose. Since you're going to move the battery to the trunk anyways, it just give you more run and a cleaner look. 

    I watched the video on the panel installation. How difficult is the installation? 


  3. 6 hours ago, Rsanter said:

    The panels shown in the install manual are custom made.

    i have seen people use the driver panel on the passenger side with some cutting and welding or you can have a panel made for you. I have a bead roller so I could make something, but you may want to find someone closer.

     

    what tools do you have accessible to you?

     

    also, why do you want to remove the towers? One thing I have done from back in the day was to do the arning drop and then cut the towers out where the original UCA mount holes are. Then you will have to do a little added bracing. 

    Then you add a tube going from the firewall foreword behind the inner panels and curve down to in front of where the tower used to be.

    then you can convert to coil overs using the stock UCAs or upgrade to tubular

     

    bob

    Main reason for delete is engine compartment space, headers, power brakes, possible big block. I know it can all be done without deleting the shock towers, but why?  When you look at quality steering and suspension components without the delete, and then price the full IFS system with rack and disc brakes, it's actually cheaper and you have arguably a better suspension and steering setup.  Making it look clean is the hard part.  I do not have a bead roller, but everything I need to welderup I have. 


  4. So I have been back and forth on whether or not to delete the shock towers on my '69 fastback. I have finally decided to go ahead and delete them and go with a Mustang II type suspension.  Question I have for other who have done is is where did you get all of your fender aprons from.  I like the MTF full delete panels but stumbled across this build http://www.classicperform.com/Instructions/PDF/64-70MustangFrontEndinstrc.pdf    With the battery tray delete panel and cannot seem to find the slick front fender apron for the passenger side. I plan on relocating battery to the trunk.  Anybody have any ideas, short of manufacturing my own or using the MTF fender aprons?


  5. yes, I believe they do, he emailed me back and said we could get a better price than Â£175 per pair plus £15 postage, if we order more, so if anyone wants to get in as a group buy, lets see what he can do for us.

    he also has clear and smoke.

    I'm in for a pair of smoked if we can get a group buy together.


  6. Ive never seen black chrome, sounds pretty good, is it sold or do you have to have it done?

    There are places where trim would be needed to cover seams and holes, but at the stage Im at i can weld them all in.

    I just want to make this car very clean, My last mustang I did Fiat door handles and flushed the tailights with 68 lenses.

    How did you get the 68 tail lights to fit?  I've been looking at flush mounting on my '69 fastback and yours looks sweet.


  7. Wound up installing an original sending unit. The wiring harness is trashed, the guy destroyed it, only wires that seem to be uncut are enough to power the MSD ignition. There's hot wires laying bare and cut everywhere. I suppose I will be ordering an AAW full harness soon. A complete rewire seems to be the only cure. Thanks for the input guys.


  8. New to the forum here, but I have been reading for a while now. I just pick up a 69 fastback from a guy who was trying to make a semi drag car out of it. He installed some aftermarket gauges, one which hardline the oil pressure gauge into the aftermarket gauge. I'm trying to go back to stock with the gauge, or at least get rid of the hardline from the block to the gauge. What route should I go? Buy a new sending unit and wire to plug into my factory gauge. This is my first build and I'm a little lost due to all the junk and crappy wiring that has been installed. I have attached a picture of the oil pressure extension and hardline. post-45507-0-06285500-1473255837.jpeg

×
×
  • Create New...