Sean D

Hi Barnett, Again thank you alot for your advice, it is greatly appreciated! Craft got back with me and the block is 4.030" and compression will be 9.9:1. Do you think this Motorcraft contour replacement assembly is a decent alternative to a junkyard oem unit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Cooling-Fan-Motor-Motor-Fan-Assy-Engine-Cooling-MOTORCRAFT-RF-81-/112312147805?hash=item1a26535f5d I also found this oem fan assembly, that I think is same as countor's but not sure as its part number is 95bb 8c607 GG instead of GE. I think the ford Mondeo is what this is for. But the listing shows it is compatible with contour. What do you think? https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OUT-OF-BOX-OEM-Ford-95BB-8C607-GG-Electric-Cooling-Fan/182683775478?hash=item2a88cd31f6:g:HLoAAOSw6B5ZdiC4&vxp=mtr Also do you know if this Griffin radiator has tubes at 3/8" on center, as I cannot find details anywhere. I know this is what you recommend and according to other posts you have dealt with Griffin personally in the past. http://www.griffinrad.com/load_details3.php?PartID=87&year=1969&make=Ford&model=Mustang&key_id=7-70039

Maybe a different approach is needed. What coil are you using if you have MSD Pro Billet Distributor and the MSD 6AL ignition w/ rev limiter control.

HI barnett, Again thank you for the information. What I mean by complete kit, in addition to the contour fan assembly itself, what else is required to install? Is it just the kit (controller and accessories) that DCC sells? What type of brakets do people use to attach it to the radiator? Trying to fish through all the information on the different website forums is almost mind boggling! You want to sell your fans you recently acquired? :-) not including the new aftermarket replacement options (which there seems to be alot of them) I did find this one, but no wiring harness included: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Radiator-Fan-Motor-Fan-Assembly-Dual-Fans-Fits-99-02-COUGAR-192063/372139652279?fits=Make%3AFord|Model%3AContour&hash=item56a54074b7:g:I~0AAOSwi0xaD1OQ also this one that has wiring harness: https://www.ebay.com/itm/99-00-01-02-COUGAR-RADIATOR-FAN-MOTOR-FAN-ASSEMBLY-DUAL-FANS-77783/282508871771?fits=Make%3AFord|Model%3AContour&hash=item41c6d7485b:g:xDcAAOSwcgNZM8dG With both there is no telling if they work or not. This seems to be a pretty good write up, but does not use DCC controller & wiring: http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/cooling-articles/482048-junkyard-upgrade-dual-electric-fans.html And I also found this, do you thin DCC still sells it: http://www.dccontrol.com/33212info.htm Thoughts?

Thank you Barnett...I believe the compression is 10:1 and I will find out exact bore. Is the Griffen radiator something you would recommend? Also, I believe the SPAL fans that come with the Griffen kit each fan pulls a max draw of 7.3, so a total of 14.6 amps. Will these not pull enough air? It says around 1600 CFM. Maybe I can upgrade the fans to higher amperage SPAL fans. Also are these the contour fans you are buying: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Four-Seasons-Radiator-and-Condenser-Fan-Motor-Assembly-Dual-75282/332027252648?fits=Make%3AFord|Model%3AContour&epid=75470806&hash=item4d4e5dcfa8:g:WpIAAOSw~HBaAcz-&vxp=mtr What is required the purchase if we go the contour route? fan controllers, wiring harness. does anyone sell a complete kit or atlease has description of what to purchase?

Yes, it is absolutely okay if it doesn't look like a conventional coil and I am not stuck on MSD coil either. As long as what I get works with the MSD Pro Billet Distributor and the MSD 6AL ignition w/ rev limiter control.

I started a new thread to please barnett! Just kidding I am starting to purchase peripheral parts for my 408W build. https://craftperformanceengines.com/Item/crateengines-street-sbf-408-418, which will come with MSD Pro Billet Distributor Can anyone give me your thoughts on which ignition coil to run with the above engine and the MSD 6AL ignition w/ rev limiter control? These seem to be the best option in terms of MSD products: HIGH VIBRATION BLASTER COIL: https://www.msdperformance.com/products/coils/street_and_strip_coils/parts/8222 BLASTER SS COIL: https://www.msdperformance.com/products/coils/street_and_strip_coils/parts/82073 BLASTER HVC: https://www.msdperformance.com/products/coils/street_and_strip_coils/parts/8252 BLASTER HVC-2: https://www.msdperformance.com/products/coils/street_and_strip_coils/parts/8253

Hi Barnett, No problems, I do not have my engine yet as it is being built which is this one: https://craftperformanceengines.com/Item/crateengines-street-sbf-408-418. But I will try to answer your questions as much as I know right now. I also did not mention that I will be running A/C. you should use a fan controller with electric fans. I think the Griffin kits I mentioned: http://www.griffinrad.com/load_details9.php?PartID=87&id=CU-70039&year=68&make=Ford&model=Mustang&key_id=CU-70039 comes with Electric Fan Wiring Harness / Includes: 185 Deg. Temperature Sensor, Relay, and Inline Fuse but it does not mention fan controller, however it does have relays. You have any information on this that I can research? does it run hot now? Not installed yet if it runs hot now, how hot and under what conditions? not sure yet what is your current setup below? water pump? Edelbrock aluminum driver side thermostat temp? havent purchased yet but the radiator/fan kit includes 185 degree sending unit high flow or standard t stat? not yet purchased but would love your thoughts stamped steel or brass t stat? not yet purchased but would love your thoughts all radiator info? http://www.griffinrad.com/load_details9.php?PartID=87&id=CU-70039&year=68&make=Ford&model=Mustang&key_id=CU-70039 do you want a fancy stamped aluminum shroud? do not require it, but is noice is there a spring in your lower hose? definately an option but have not purchased hoses yet. Additionally, the griffin radiator/fan kit is one option, but would love input if it will cool adequately and if not what you suggest. I am open...

Guys, Do you think this radiator and electric fan combination with a combined 1616max cfm will cool my 408w? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-cu-70039/overview/year/1969/make/ford/model/mustang Sean

All, About to replace my rear drum brakes with disk. I currently have front disk and while I have my engine out, I am redoing the master cylinder and related brake lines to the below disk/drum distribution/proportioning valve. Question: is the proportioning valve part of this combination block still required when replacing the rear drums with disk? If a proportioning valve is still required would it be better to use an adjustable valve instead of the OEM cigar shaped one? Sean

Hi all, What gauge/size wire (red and black referred to in above picture) do you use with Rocket Man's conversion? Also, when you cut and fold back the circuit board onto itself, do you put some type of insulator between the two ammeter circuit board connections, or do you want them touching/connected to each other? Thank you, Sean

MN69Grande - did you remove the entire original charge wire out of the alternator harness and the entire headlight harness? If so, do you remember how far back into the headlight harness you had to go?

Hi Midlife, Again thank you for quick response! I haven't upgraded to voltmeter yet, but will do so before getting my new engine in. I am using the PA Performance 3G conversion kit: http://www.paperformance.com/1g-3g-conversion-462802c/ with instructions here: http://www.paperformance.com/content/462802C.pdf Here are notes from the instructions related to the original charge wire [referred to below as "larger" black (or black/orange) wire]: NOTE 2: The "larger" black (or black/orange) wire is the B+. Instead of upgrading it, add a 2nd wire (#6 or #4 gauge) to it, and run that from the B+ stud on the alternator over to the B+ (battery) side of the fender mounted starter solenoid. This new wire MUST include a fusible link (or a fuse) for protection rated at 150 amps minimum for a 95A 3G and 200 amps for a 130A 3G. PA-Performance offers this Power Wire Kit, or an auto parts store or stereo shop can supply you with one. The small black wire is cut off or taped back and unused. The ignition wire (see note on color from step #14) we connect to the green/red. The BIG eye terminal on the ground wire - (if present) is connected to the alternator mounting foot for a good clean direct ground path. NOTE 3: In some cases the original # 10 black battery + wire actually runs through the amp gauge on the dash. You MUST run a 2nd wire as we described to handle the added current on a 130 amp 3G upgrade. Do not upgrade the original wire because it must go through the amp gauge - but the amp gauge will not handle the added amperage. The result is that the amp gauge will not be accurate once the jumper is run. It will be more accurate to add a volt gauge in the future.

Hi Midlife, I am going with the following 95A 3G alternator (60 amps at idle (2000 alternator shaft rpm) 120 amps maximum) with my 408 stroker build (in the works), that will be running big electric fans, mini starter, MSD Ignition and Coil, halogen lights, etc. http://www.paperformance.com/95a-3g-alternator-1614l/ I agree that the 3G atlernator itself is voltage regulated, but not current regulated. I am also converting my ammeter gauge to a voltage gauge so I can keep a watch on the voltage better. and not burn up my dash wiring. But I believe you are correct that the original 10 gauge will burn up if the 4 gauge inline 200 amp fuse blows. However, looking at the wiring diagram I think the original 10 gauge will burn up if it is connected to the alternator or not, right? As the original fusible link black wire (fused at firewall I believe) is connected to the battery side of the starter solenoid and this wire is spliced into the original alternator 10 gauge charge wire somewhere along the front headlight wiring harness. So it really doesn't matter if I connect the original 10 guage charge wire to alternator or not, as it has current either way, right?

Thanks Midlife. I do plan to use a new fused 4 gauge wire, seperate to the original charge wire, going directly to the positive post on the selonoid. But I guess it will not hurt anything to also use the original charge wire as well, as looking at the wiring diagram it will be hot even if not used and not connected, right?

I got new voltage regulator screw kit (two screws and one star washer), and I assume the start washer is for the ground wire (bottom screw I assume). Can Midlife or someone please confirm this? Also, what is the correct order to install these to the bottom screw of the voltage regulator starting with fender apron working out? Is it: 1. fender apron 2. star washer 3. grounding wire (two wires connected to single ring connector) 4. voltage regulator 5. radio voltage capacitor 6. Screw head

Anyone have any suggestions?

I am replacing all front end wiring in my 69, and also doing this 3g conversion as well with the pa performance conversion kit and their 4g charge wire with 200 amp fuse. Replacing the voltage regulator with the one from the conversion kit is straight forward. On 69 non tach car, the original alternator harness has three wires from the original alternator harness, orange is spliced to the green/red stripe wire from the conversion kit. The black/ red stripe is not used. And the third is a black charge wire (I think it is charge wire), but the conversion kit instructions says to not upgrade the charge wire but instead add a second wire (6 or 4g charge wire). However I am concerned about using the original black 10g charge wire in the alternator harness. Should I connect the original charge wire to the alt in addition to the new 4g charge wire? If I dont use original charge wire will it affect anything? Anyone done this with the pa performance conversion kit?

wire color looks blue and maybe with black stripe or black with blue stripe. do not have the harness right now and hard to tell from pictures.

I believe trunk light wire is only on taillight harness with convienence group/package and is green/red stripe and has red female bullet connector. The one I am trying to figure out has blue female bullet connector.

Can someone tell me what the blue bullet female connector is for on the 69 taillight harness and where does it connect too?

Thank you Midlife! No, this is 69 Mach 1 without Tachometer. Any difference?

This is the end of my new engine compartment wiring harness, where it all attaches to solenoid and voltage regulator. Can anyone tell me if the black and black w/red connected wire at female fitting (center of picture) is and where it is bolted or screwed too? I believe the black w/red stripe wire goes to alternator, but what is the black one? Is it a ground and does it bolts or screw to one of the voltage regulator bolts to fender apron?

Thank you for the reply and I will use it to get max and constant amps. What I need to know is, at what max amps (65amp, 100amp, 140amp, etc.) do I need to start upgrading/convert alternator wiring and charging wiring, convert ammeter to voltage meter, etc.? And what are the options? Oh and do you think the fan radiator combo will cool well in stop and go traffic?

Please help, as I know some of you are running electric fans or have great knowledge. What amp alternator do you think I need to run these dual spal electric fans on my 69 Mach 1? And what mods (wiring?) do I need to work with it? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-cu-70039/overview/year/1969/make/ford/model/mustang I believe each fan pulls a max draw of 7.3, so a total of 14.6 amps. I will be running vintage air ac, stock lights front and back, and smallish radio. Engine will be 408w with all new stock wiring harnesses. Also what other mods do you think I need? I read about upgraded 6 or 4 gauge fused charging wire, 3g alternator upgrade, convert ammeter to voltage meter, etc. For example is this 3g upgrade regulator box and wiring kit overkill for my setup, and if so what is my alternative: https://www.cjponyparts.com/pa-performance-alternator-conversion-kit-allows-use-of-3g-130-amp-alternator-1965-1985/p/ALTCK/ Oh and do you think the fan radiator combo will cool well in stop and go traffic?

Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you