helrazr70

As promised, here are the some more pics... After the vinyl removal: http://my.picresize.com/FLZOEP6WVS After cutting the center of the skin off: http://my.picresize.com/HX7E28Y7BK Upper rear 1/4s: http://my.picresize.com/EGYWEB8F27 Floor-driver side: http://my.picresize.com/V7TD7602C5 Floor-passenger side: http://my.picresize.com/XWDKC5CTNN

The sad part is that I had a spare good roof also that I cut off a parts car years ago... Before my grandfather died he asked my cousin to haul off all the "junk" from the barns. My cousin thought everything was junk and I lost a 69 fastback roof, fenders, doors, and trunklid along with many other 69/70 Mustang parts including 2 sets of C9 351W heads and a freshly machined C9 351W block/crank. The other sad thing is that I was just in NJ all last week for vacation. We went to Wildwood for a week. How much are you looking to get out of the roof? (Are you willing to sell it?) I am supposed to go back to Tarrytown/White Plains again for work for 2 weeks in October.

That explains why I read a couple of times that they ground off that layer! I really don't feel like drilling out 160+ spotwelds and then having to weld up 160 drill holes from the spotweld cutter. My old spotburr1000 is about shot and my roto-broaches require grinding anyway. I will probably just expose the welds and then grind through them with a cutoff wheel. Upon reassembly I will plug weld the windshield and back glass channels and maybe a couple of spots along the driprails--AFTER laying down a healthy bead of panel bonding adhesive along the driprails. I would rather bond the edges than weld since rust has already been an issue and the glue will also seal the area. I need to avoid high heat and bare metal anywhere I can to prevent future rust issues.

Thanks for the input! Once I remove the stainless drip moldings I will try to grind down and see if I can locate the spotwelds if they are there. I was assuming that there would be spotwelds in the drip channel, but have never seen any. (never looked) I will keep the thread updated with my findings.

Oh, it gets worse than that! I have to download the pics and resize them. I will post the roof with no vinyl on it. You will see where the roof caved in and was resting on the headliner bows. (sagging between them) The floors are long gone. The front torque boxes are flaky and the floor supports could stand to be replaced. The understructure for the roof is suprisingly solid as are the drip rails and "A" pillars. The area under the rear seat is rust free and the rear torque boxes are good except for the cover on the passenger side box. The rear frame rails are good. The LF shock tower is cracked at the base and the shock tower to apron joints all have holes. The rear 1/4s are shot from the beltline upward and have been reskinned in the past. The doors have been reskinned long ago but the door corners have holes you could put a softball through. Soooo... I will be installing a roof skin, 2 full 1/4s, 2 doors, a taillight panel, and a shock tower for sure. I may be able to salvage the fenders and trunk lid. The outer wheel houses have wrinkles like they were damaged at one time and they were a little hacked up when the 1/4s were skinned. I may be able to patch them up--or I will replace them. My plan is to either completely finish it or get it to a certain point and let someone else take over then put the proceeds toward a better candidate. One reason I like this car is because I actually got it to start and run for 10sec periods on starting fluid after priming the oil pump, replacing the plugs, points, condensor and starter soleniod. I will get it to run on gas soon and if it doesn't smoke, I will get it mobile for fall car shows and enter it in the "rat rod" or under "construction" categories juust for fun before tearing it down for a long resto. It is worth saving for sure...

I know the roof skin is attached in the windshield and back window channels with spotwelds, but... ...how is the skin attached alond the sides along the drip rails and 1/4 window? Is it spotwelded? crimped? continuous weld? I have seen others say that they just used a grinder and ground the edges until they got rid of that layer. My roof skin was shot and I trimmed the center away and will start soon on removing the edges so that I will be able to install a new roof skin. (My car had a vinyl roof and the ENTIRE roof rusted out--but luckily my drip rails, support structure, and A pillars were spared) http://my.picresize.com/GL8XIDUX39 Any ideas or pics?

I forgot to subscribe to this topic... Here is a pic of the car I bought. It was probably dealer installed. I removed the vinyl tonight and found lots of bondo underneath. (that's the only part that didn't rust!) The roof rusted and was repaired and then revinyled at some point. I cut the roof around the edges tonight and was able to easily fold it up and put it in the trash can easily... I will post pics once they are uploaded and hosted. http://my.picresize.com/AG54RGFIP4 http://my.picresize.com/GL8XIDUX39

I just picked up a rough '69 Mustang fastback with a vinyl roof. The roof is destroyed as are the upper rear 1/4s. One of the vinyl top moldings is missing but the car is complete. It's an "H" code FMX car with PS, PB, and A/C. I have never seen a vinyl roof fastback, have you?

This is a complete Modern Driveline T5 cable clutch conversion kit with instructions. It was used about 2000 miles before the previous owner converted the car back to 4spd status for selling the car. CLutch and brake pedals in the pics not included with kit. $185 shipped.

I have a NICE complete set of bolt in window brackets that attach the regulators to the glass. Get rid of those glue-in windows! $180 shipped.

I am selling a 1969 Mustang engine from an F code coupe. It has been bored .040 and comes with .040 forged pistons and brand new Sealed Power rings. It also comes with a new double roller timing chain and gears. I will have to check the crank. I was told it has been turned .010 and has new bearings installed. Also included is the block to trans spacer plate and the flywheel. For additional $$ I have a brand new Comp Cams 270H cam and lifter kit for it and a brand new Weiand Dual Plane intake. I also have a brand new 650cfm Holley 4150 Carburetor in the box that is elec choke and vac secondaries.

What you are saying is that they are in the process of making cable kits for '69 model cars to use other year model clutch pedals? At this point, they are reproducing the '69 pedal so it would be more economical for me to just buy the pedal from them and be done with it. I will tinker with what I have and buy a repro as a last resort. I have a Mustang front clip complete with firewall. I have already cut the upper and lower cowls off of it. I had easy access to do an experiment. I mocked up the pedal assy with the 67 style clutch pedal and then installed the firewall template/brace. I marked the center of the cable guide hole on the outside of the firewall. I then installed the cable clutch adapter bracket to the clutch pedal and then marked the spot on the firewall that lines up with the hole in the bracket. I drilled a 1/16" hole from the inside out. The hole lined up within 1/16" of the outside mark. There is more adjustment than that on the bracket on the pedal. So, the answer is YES, a 67/68 pedal will work in a 69/70 if you are using the Modern Driveline cable clutch set-up as long as the spring mount bracket is cut off. The only issue I may have is the pedals being an unequal height from the floor. I could not gauge this because neither my car or clip have master cylinders installed to check them. If they are uneven, I can "adjust" the stop bracket on the pedal--or remove the bracket all together from the pedal. ...but with the pedals at the max forward position in the housing, they both line up perfectly.

OK, I just found a picture of a 67 pedal that closely resembles this one. Anyone think it will work with my set-up?

Not to beat a dead horse with another clutch pedal thread, (which there are many to be found using the search function) but I have an issue with a clutch/brake pedal I just bought for my '69. I just bought these off ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=003&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=130222470628&rd=1 The issue I have is this--I got them today and the clutch pedal DOESN"T appear to be from a '69 Mustang. The brake pedal looks correct and has a 2/69 date stamped on it, but the clutch pedal has a cotter pin hole in the shaft instead of a clip groove like 65-68. Also the return spring/bumper bracket on the pedal is different. (like the 65-68) I should have done a little more research before buying these. It all came back to me when I pulled them out of the box how my last '69 clutch pedal looked several years ago. The pedal pad itself is angle cut like the 65-68 pedals instead of square. Now for the funny part: I have been looking at 65-68 pedals and they are all made differently. This pedal is straight except the crook by the pedal pad like the 69/70, 65-68 all have bends in the pedals before the pad. (at least the ones I have seen online today) So, why does this pedal look to have a 65/66 or 67/68 upper bracketry & pedal pad, but have a straight 69/70 "arm"? Has anyone seen this pedal before? Is it a 65-68 of some sort and I just missed that version in my research? Is it from another Ford product? If I had to guess, I would say it's a 65-68 Mustang of some sort. Here is the page at modern driveline with the different pedals shown: http://www.safepay.net/cgi-bin/shop/cart.cgi?db=mddata.txt&category=pedals&merchant=moderndriveline I may still be able to use it with my Modern Driveline cable conversion kit. The bolt-on bracket fits, but not quite perfectly. I have to see if it will align with the cable hole in the firewall once it's drilled. ...or I just break down and buy a 69/70 pedal from MD.

They are... soon. (supposedly --you know how internet rumors are...) If you look at their website, they have tons of 69/70 parts that are being reproduced. Some are available now and some are being shown but are not available. Word is that they are working toward reproducing the 69/70 like they did the 67/68. They released the complete cowls this year. I am going to try to use the lower section from the clip I got. I have to buy the upper section since both of mine are rusty under the cowl to apron brackets. They are making '69/'70: taillight housings folddown rear seat moldings headlight buckets complete firewalls hoods fresh air vents taillight panel to rear 1/4 fillers etc... Check out some of their parts: http://dynacorn.com/site/04home/home.html

The reason for not wanting to use the clips floor supports is because the guy who cut up the car sawed into the trying to cut them with a sawzall equipped with a wood blade. He dug in pretty deep in places and sawed the passenger side end "ears" off. ...also it seems as though using the original floor supports would help keep things more square because if I swapped the whole assy it seems as if I could be off side-to-side. It does make more sense to detach the torque boxes from the rockers vs separating at the frame rail. It looks like there is less cutting and I will have better reference points when mating up the assy sung the torque boxes. I guess another possibility is to break everything loose on the clip to the point of swap-readiness and then install new floor supports on the clip...but if I were doing that, I have nice ones on the car... Unfortunately I am on call all week and must drive a company vehicle...and the clip is still in the back on my truck at work until next Monday. Sooo...my progress will resume next week, giving me time to plan.

I have a '69 fastback that has been wrecked and shoddily repaired in the past...and to add insult to injury, the LF frame rail under the tower and both shock towers are rusty. On top of all that both front aprons and core supprt have been cut off and the strut rod housings are mangled/bent. Needless to say, I need pretty much everything from the firewall forward. The only salvageable part is the RF framerail...and it may be tweaked since the framerail distance varies +/- 8mm between the end of the rail and the shock tower. Here is where my question comes in: I just bought a complete Mustang front clip with big block shock towers. I am trying to decide the best way to swap it in and keep everything lined up within specifications. My thought is to separate the frame rails/shock towers/aprons as an assy from the firewall and torque boxes on both the clip and the car while leaving the seat support rails in place as a guide as to where everything should line-up when going back together. I figure if I start with the whole car level and the front frame rails level--that I should be able to slide the new rails/clip into the floor pan supports/rails until: the aprons mesh the firewall perfectly the frame rails slide to the proper depth in the floor supports and the front frame rails are level like the originals were Does this sound like it would work? How hard is it to separate the frame rails from the torque boxes without hurting the rails or torques boxes? (both the car and clip have VERY solid torque boxes) Should I leave the torqueboxes attached to the replacement frame rails and swap them in also?

I have the regulators and rods/guides. What I am looking for are the metal brackets that attach the glass to the regulator. I am not opposed to buying all or most of the parts if the price is right. Otherwise I really only need the 4 metal glass to regulator brackets. Would you be willing to sell just those brackets? Thanks for the response! :)

I have the regulators and rods/guides. What I am looking for are the metal brackets that attach the glass to the regulator. I am not opposed to buying all or most of the parts if the price is right. Otherwise I really only need the 4 metal glass to regulator brackets. Would you be willing to sell just those brackets? Thanks for the response! :)

I need: bolt-in window brackets lower cowl (mine is rusted out pretty badly)--I know it's a long shot! driver shock tower one stainless trim that goes between taillight lens and lens-to-body gasket fastback rear window moldings fastback windshield moldings nice condition door strikers (mine are nice and rusty) nice shifter handle shaft (or whole shifter) with minimal pitting I guess I will add to my list as I go! Thanks!

I need: bolt-in window brackets lower cowl (mine is rusted out pretty badly)--I know it's a long shot! driver shock tower one stainless trim that goes between taillight lens and lens-to-body gasket fastback rear window moldings fastback windshield moldings nice condition door strikers (mine are nice and rusty) nice shifter handle shaft (or whole shifter) with minimal pitting I guess I will add to my list as I go! Thanks!

I am interested in the bolt-in window glass brackets and hardware along with a few body parts.