SteveZero

Thanks for the quick responses. Stevewr54: Thanks to some fine folks here I have a wiring diagram from this old post. Oops, looks like the file isn't available anymore. I have a print out, at any rate. LindonBruce: I did have to assemble the connector (using the diagram that came with the harness). I triple checked that I had it wired correctly, and even checked it against the wiring that was there before. Nothing is throwing me any red flags there. 68stang289: Looking under the dash, I can't really tell if the PO modified anything. Most of the wires look to be factory (very old/wrapped in black tape, etc) with the exception of wiring around the heater (which is inoperable, cut hoses) and the radio (which is missing). I supposed the solenoid could be wired wrong...I thought i wired everything back up the same, but I could be mistaking. I'll have to check that. miketyler: If I can follow something, like the large gauge wire you were talking about, then that should help narrow things down. Should I start there? Is there an easier, or more efficient, way of checking the wiring? I'm a complete novice to this kind of thing, but I have a voltmeter and I'm ready to try anything. Any pointers? Thanks, --Steven

Hey all, I'm finally getting back to my project car. A while ago I was having engine shaking problems which was solved (finally) with a new harmonic balancer. Anyway, I got the car running and the battery died on me a few weeks later (a problem the car has always had) so I decided to get a new alternator along with a new alternator harness. New alternator came, I installed it, and found that the P.O. had spliced the hell out of the old wiring harness, and there was no place to plug in the new alternator harness. So, I got a new firewall to headlamp harness. I installed the harness as instructed with no problem. All of the connectors that split from it plugged in seamlessly with the various components in the engine bay (headlamps, washer-pump, etc) all the way to the alternator plug. So, I turn the key and nothing happens. No clicks, nothing. The headlamps won't power on, nadda. I triple checked the connector at the firewall and all is good there. I jumped the solenoid and the engine tried to kick over, but no go. I'm at a loss as to what to check next. I think the interior isn't getting any power, but I have no idea why. Any takers? --Steven

well, that sounds great! i plan on using the car for pleaseure, not as a daily driver, but i just love manual cars (that's what my '05 is). Am i going to have to replace the bell housing from the 302? I'm pretty sure the I6 is the wrong shape or size. If i have to get a new or used one, what should i look for? --Steven

i had this problem when i got my car. the p.o. had unbolted all but one bolt on the front valance so when the tires rubbed, the valance would flop around, made a terrible noise too. after i bolted it back into place, the left tire would constantly rub on a full turn (could only make about 1/2 a turn) and gouged bits out of my new tires. anyway, i took off the supporting bracket (that stabalizes the valance to the frame) and used a regular old pair of pliers to "roll" the metal. i needed about 3/4 inch clear. i know it's probably not the proper way to do it, but only one side rubbed, and the valace was fully bolted, no room to shift. i think the frame might be slightly bent. --Steven

Well, i think i may have found one hell of a deal. I just purchased a 1970 "nearly running" I6 3 speed, with a nice little bonus of a 390 with C6, see photos below. All for $600.00. There were also a lot of "bonus" parts that came with the 'stang. I'm trying to identify a fan shroud with the code D0DE 8146 A. It seems to fit in my '69 302, the bolt holes line up, and the fan seems lined up, but i just want to make sure before i start her up and then rip this thing to shreds. I'm planning on stripping it for parts I can use on the 69 (like the fabled bolt in glass), and then selling the rest. I think i've abandoned the idea of putting the 390 in (it needs total restoration, and the 302 is 98% done anyway), so i'll probably be selling that too. Now I'm interested in that manual 3-speed. Will that hold up behind a 302? I know a 4-speed is optimal...but is it worth it? Also, what does it take to convert an auto car to a manual car? I know this question has been asked before, so can anyone point me in the right direction? --Steven

Yeah, i've been thinking about that. There's also a constant "ticking" from a few of the rockers...maybe the problem is tied in to that. This is the first time someone recommended taking it to a shop....but that sounds about right. I've been spinning my wheels (no pun there) for about 4 months now, it's infuriating. --Steven

no, i haven't checked the mounts. but wouldn't bad mounts be bad all the time? this problem popped up outta nowhere, and the engine shakes at a specific RPM, but then goes away at a hard rev. if it is the mounts, how would i check them? --Steven

oh, it's definitly the engine. the same thing occurs when it's parked, and i manually rev the engine. please see the previous thread i linked to for more information (unfortunatly, most of that thread deals with timing, but that's all been taken care of now). the engine visually shakes violently at certain rpms. --Steven

Well, a few things: the car appears to be timed correctly. it idles fine, it even sits in drive fine. It cruises from 0-40ish fine. But after that the engine takes a turn and starts shaking violently. If I then "gun it," the problem goes away, until i drop back to those rpms again. in trying to diagnose this problem i have rebuilt the carburetor, replaced the distributer, replaced th spark plugs and wire, replaced the coil, adjusted the timing, blocked the fuel lines to test, cleaned out the carb (rust dust from the gas tank) then added 2 fuel filters. Also, i do use my timing light to get in the ball park, then go by ear. Mostly because i've read your response to timing on so many threads :). --Steven

69BossMach1 recommended it to check timing issues on page 7 of that thread. If there's a way to do those tests without buying an adjustable timing light, that would be awesome. --Steven

Well, I have a timing light, just not an adjustable one. Isn't that where the "expensive" comes in? --Steven

Yeah, I guess it's just hard for me to plunk down $120.00 at the local Kragen.... oh well, i'll have to suck it up eventually. i was just hoping it was a different problem and i wouldn't have to pay the piper. --Steven

Thanks everyone for the info. While it does sound feasible, it doesn't sound like something an inexperienced person like me could handle, even if I had the budget to do it with. It's all good information though, and has helped me see that the almost functioning 302 that i have now is a better bet then a full engine swap (although i think it'll be in the back of my mind for a while). We all have dreams for out cars, right? --Steven p.s. for more on the "almost functioning 302" please see this thread http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=4428&page=8

After a bit of research, it looks like a 390 would be a better option, better upgrade availability. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_FE_engine if this wikipedia page is correct, i'll be able to find an old block in a wrecking yard from a 68-71 or 72-75 truck, approx $150 use a rebuild kit: http://www.flatlanderracing.com/rebuildkitsford.html approx $239 Get a c6 (local craigslist) $75 and have a grand ol' time for about $500 (of course i'd probably double that amount for variables). $1000 for a 390? does that sound about right? http://critesrestoration.com/mustang.htm $189 for the install kit http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~partsort $109.95 for bolt on sub frame connectors What have I left out? Radiator, exhaust?....what else would need to be fully replaced, and or modified? --Steven p.s. this may need to be moved to the "project" thread

Theoretically speaking: What would the process of taking out a 302 w/ C4 and replacing it with a 460 w/ C6 entail? I know that's a pretty big question, but what are the major points in a project like that? Will it fit? What else needs to be modified or replaced? Is it even possible? I like the idea of a big block, but is this a huge undertaking? Would a different sized big block be a better fit? --Steven