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tommyjack

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Posts posted by tommyjack


  1. I've restored 7 69s over the past 15 years.  It's always been a ground issue or cut wire when they don't work.  Mostly ground.  Clean your tail light buckets where the socket snaps in and clean the bumper where the parking lights bolt on.  Both are a good place to start.


  2. Does anyone know if '69 Mach 1 stripes are tapered(taller in the back and shorter towards the front)?

    Yes they are.  Keep that in mind when tryin to get them straight.  As for the brand, I use Graphics Express.  Their stripes are actual 2 pieces overlaid and reflective.  Great folks to work with.  Beware the stripes from Mustangs Unlimited.  They may be a few bucks cheaper but the gold in the stripe is a cheesy yellow and its printed on.


  3. 1969 Mustang Mach 1 factory big block 1 of 4, 390 S-code, C6, PS, PB, factory air car, fold down rear seat in Indian Fire Red. I have the Marti Report and research letter.  This is an original California car.  Comes with original California black plates.  Still has original front bumper with UCLA stadium parking pass decals dated 1974.  Was last on the road in California in 89.  Was bought by a truck driver and brought to Oregon where it sat in a barn for years as the motor was rebuilt.  I have receipts for parts for the motor.  Car probably has less than 500 miles on rebuild.  Trans looks to have been rebuilt as well but I don’t have receipts on it.  Car has an Edlebrock 427 intake, Holley 750 carb, Doug’s mid length headers, and nice cam.  Has had the “Shelby Drop†on the front A arms and 1 coil cut from the springs for improved handling.  Comes with the original intake, carb, and exhaust manifolds for the car.  Has a new 2.5†exhaust with Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers run out to factory style stainless tips.   New interior, seat covers, factory tooling dash, and carpet.  Has original AM-8 track, and it works.  All lights work including the turn signals in the hood scoop as well as the rim blow horn switch.  AC will need a condenser, dryer and hoses.  I believe the factory compressor is good.  Car was taken down to the bare metal then sprayed with “Clausen’s All You Need†primer and blocked sanded.  It was then sprayed exclusively with PPG products, 4 coats of PPG Deltron Base and 4 coats of PPG 2002 High Solids Clear.  Black on car is PPG single stage Concepts.  Graphics Express factory licensed Ford Mach 1 stripes were then applied. See link below for pictures of the build.  Be sure and raise the pictures up just a little to see the sub titles on some of the pictures.  $39,500  No trades, joy rides, checks or Paypal. I do not need help selling,  SERIOUS INQUIRIES ONLY!! Thanks for looking and God bless.  Contact tommyjack@att.net

     

    http://s974.photobucket.com/user/Mocfan/library/Wild%20Wanda?sort=6&page=1        

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  4. Changed out the passenger side flasher.  Also I'm buying a USA made switch, http://www.ebay.com/itm/281322955739?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT  Bought one from these folks two years ago for another 69 I had.  Didn't fix the problem so I figured it was a bad switch.  They were absolutely great to work with on the return.  After another switch and 2 weeks time, I discovered it was where I painted the tail light housings.  Bad ground, event though I thought I had cleaned them enough.  So they'll get my business again. 


  5. Spent a little more time looking at this afternoon. It's only the front signals that are flashing in unison. Rear signals flash as normal left or right but both front signals flash no matter which side is triggered and it lights up the scoop lights and dash lights as if the emergency flashers are on.

    Replaced the original long flasher canister with a new one. No change. Unhooked parking light terminals at the front harness. All looked ok but ran same some sand paper across them and inside the female terminals. No change.  Turn signal harness?


  6. Just did this repair this morning on a switch I installed a few months back.  Worked like charm.  Followed instructions and had no problems.  I figured getting the strips back in the rubber would be a pain.  But with the lube, no problems.  Just make sure and keep the copper from bending by itself as it lays over your hand while feeding it in. Took me about 2hrs including trimming the gap in the wheel.  I wired it back up prior to inserting in the wheel to make sure it worked.  I also left it hooked up.  That way if it kinked while installing it, the horn would sound.  All went well. Thanks Kris!!!


  7. Well, not enough sleep, working to long on it, and trying to finish it up to return a friends tool, led me to put the spring in 180 degrees out.  I've installed springs several times before and never had this problem.  Must be getting old.  And a gluten for punishment.  Doing a Shelby drop on a big block with headers in the car is not fun.  Thanks for all the input.  Roller perches are on my list.

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