69mustang351W

Its over 3 years ago since I wrote that some images of my 63.5 Galaxie would come here in the garage. A bit late, but late is better than never :) Missing the 69 Mustang I had, but the 63.5 Galaxie is also cool. This winter I have replaced the original 352 with a 390 from a 67 Mustang and working these days to get the 390 to work properly. A bit more horsepower than the 352 Have a nice summer [ATTACH]17463[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]17464[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]17465[/ATTACH]

Yes, there is a limit about how kind a seller can be. Too nice, and the buyer may think he can make most out of this chance to get great refund. He may become cunning. I assume it is just adjustment which is the problem, he may exaggerate the problem

Just what the buyer told me, the wheel on the drivers side is more forward than the other. 3-4 years ago, the car was at an alignment shop, I have the documents of the measurements. Approximatly 2 years after that, I cut the front springs, half a coil. Maybe that could be a reason to the bump steer problem. That would be a better reason than a a unstraight frame. But I also agree Candyapplered, in his comment In the contract, its written "the car is sold as it is, without any form of warranty" But, off course its ok to help the buyer, if I can

Hello I sold my 69 mustang in the beginning of the Desember last year. Two days ago (29/3-2011) I got a phone from the buyer. He has removed many parts and he is gonna paint it. He restores the car and has used money to buy new parts. He had a problem. The distance between the front and rear wheels had almost 3 cm (proximately 1 inch) difference on each side. The distance is longer on the drivers side. He wondered why. I dont have a clue. He may wants to cancel the purchase. He is suspiciuos and believe that the frame may not be straight. If it is, the frame must has been unstraight from before I bought the car in 2002. May this "difference" problem often is common? The front fender on the driver side is a repro, the other is original. Could the wheel well on these fenders be a bit different, so it looks like the distance between the tires and the wells is a bit different? The car has been to controls (in Europe, we have to do it each second year). In 2004, I replaced the front suspension (with new repro parts) and replaced the rear leaf springs. And the car was at suspension control at a shop after, and it worked great.

I also mean the 69 mustang is a nice car, from any viewangle. But I wanted something new :). I also mean the 63 1/2 is a nice car. Also mustangs have almost been the most seen amcar on norwegian meetings, and a Galaxie is not so often to see at the meetings. This isnt the main reason why I sold my mustang :) I understood he ment in the forum-garage:) I know its also wrong to write this thread in this technical forum, but since I got help her, I did it Thanks for the wishes

Some pictures will come later, in the garage :)

Hello Thanks for the help in many years I got much technical help here Ive sold my 69 Ford Mustang A 63 1/2 Ford Galaxie is on its way from California to Norway

Thanks. The '64 is also cool. The price was also ok. Anyway, my favorite is the 63/63 1/2. Its enough time, I have this winther to look for a Galaxy. It is some small details which Im not satisfied with on my mustang. It takes a lot of time to fix it and I have already tried. So if I buy a Galaxy and my decision is that this car isnt any car for me, I can by a new mustang, a better one. Its a lot of mustangs to buy compared with Galaxies.

Its 1640 european kilometers from Karmøy to harstad where I live. A bit distance:). Norway is a small country, but long. Im getting tired of the mustang, want some bigger and have seen som galaxies thru the last years and been inspired. A bigger car and cool. Both the Mustang and Galaxie is cool, but in different ways.

Hello I may gonna sell my Mustang and buy a 63 1/2 Galaxie I may import a Galaxy from USA via a company in Norway Someone have some tips about where to search on internett to find Galaxies? I know about some sites like ebay, Hemmings and carsforsale.com Other actual sites?

Its several possible reasons about this issue, so it will be interesting to find the reason. Messages about it will come in this thread when I know more.

The hose on the left side of the heater box thru the floor is there. One simple question: Water which goes thru the holes in the grillecover over the cowl, where is that water going, if the cowl is good, not rusted? Is it a draining system?

"To replace the cowl, do I also have to remove the fenders?" was originally my next question, but I guess its not necessary. In threads about removing the cowl, the fenders wasnt mentioned . Never removed the cowl or heater core earlier, so this winter i will learn something new. It is a draining hole (not hose) in the floor, but it may be partially sealed by the rust/wet sound isolation material.

Today I was looking after the remote control for the cd-player in my mustang. Then I discovered som thin white foam of a kind on upper surface on the floor carpet. Then i pull the carpet up and It was very wet under. This is on the passenger side. It was also much rust on the floor. Could it be leakage from the cooling or heating system?

I have to find some black screws :001_smile: I also have these GT-stripes on my mustang. I dont gonna use GT-wheels or rear spoiler, but actual things to add on my mustang is the a front spoiler and an air scoop.

Maybe screws is a good way to do it. Another question Max Power. Your gold coloured mustang, is it a GT or not?

On both sides of my fastback, the headliner trim panels (also calles sail panels), is loose on the upper side, the have been loose for years now :001_smile:. I wonder how to fasten it. Some glue has to been used I guess. Its difficult to hold the surfaces together while ordinary glue is drying Maybe contact glue is good to use. Just letting both surfaces dry, and then push them together. Some years ago, I think I tried that solution, but of course its legal to try again. Some other experience about how to fasten these panels?

Winter 2008/2009 I was removing the front bumper and brackets for make bigger holes in the brackets to lift the bumper a bit. It became a bit better but not very much better. The centre of the bumper is ok, but I still mean the sides of the bumper point a bit to much down. One image is attached and under the outer light on the drivers side it shows that the bumper is some millimiters to much down. Next winter I may be removing the bumper and fasten it to something and try to bend the sides a bit up. Not much but just a little. The front bumper is a repro bumper, so its maybe easier to bend. Someone have some experience with bending bumpers? It may look something specially to do this, but it is a possibillity to get it as I want.

You was right :). The vacuum hose was only 1-2 mm on the tube from the carburetor and it was probably leaking some air. I moved the hose on the tube as it should be, and then the acceleration was good.

I have an autolite 2100 on my 351 windsor. Before the holiday, the engine ran very well, but now, only when I acellerate from idle the engine is humbling a short second and the it runs well. When it is more rpms than idle, f.ex 2500, I can accelerate without any problems. I guess the float is right adjusted because the engine accelerate fine exept from the idle. The carburetor is newly rebuilt, and its also checked that the accerator pump works well. This problem came after I and another person had checked the fuel system and the ignition system, when the engine wouldnt start. But it was the some contact problems in the ignition switch that caused that the engine didnt start. The engine began to start, but the died. But now it starts ok. The plug wires and the distributor cap is newly replaced with mallory plugwires/cap, and it works good.Im gonna check for vacuum leaks and if the centrifugal function works, but it can be dirt it the seats for the idle mixture screws. How to clean the idle mixture screw seats? Spray some WD-40 into it? I dont have pressure air.

The code was WES AA, then it is 3.00:1, and I has to order tan TAN-colored 19 tooth driven gear

Just to check what the ratio is. I guess 3.00 axle is standard. The diameter of the tires also matters off course.

My speedometer dont works as it should, so Im gonna order a cable and a driven gear. I guess my car has original parts and was delivered as a "standard" mustang , not special rearend-gear ratio. I have a 351 windsor and a FMX tranny. There is many driven gears to choose . What is the standard number of tooths on the driven gear?

If I remember right, I have taylor. I tried to use the timing light, but it was something wrong with the wire to the first cylinder. I also got electical spark in my fingers when I rotated the distributor, touching the wire ends fitted to the distributor cap.Of course, I could have checked all the wires with an ohmeter. But I choose to buy new ones, by another brand than taylor:)

If I remember right, I have taylor. I tried to use the timing light, but it was something wrong with the wire to the first cylinder. I also got electical spark in my fingers when I rotated the distributor, touching the wire ends fitted to the distributor cap.Of course, I could have checked all the wires with an ohmeter. But I choose to buy new ones, by another brand than taylor:)