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cobra3073

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Posts posted by cobra3073

  3. Posted · Report reply

    As a committed modifyer, I STRONGLY agree with what others have said in that you should do whatever you want to do with YOUR mustang.

     

    On my '73 Grande, I took a similar approach as I like the hockey stripes on the '71 Boss 351 so I used those without the lettering. From my perspective a Boss 351 will not touch this car as it has a LOT of modifications that go beyond what the Boss had to include the 472 inch motor (429 Block with 460 crank bored .060 over), suspension mods, a LOT more HP (and TORQUE) and more creature comforts . I don't consider my car a "Poser" but a vast improvement on what was available from Ford.

     

    As to your query, my personal preference would be for the stripes without the lettering but either approach will work just fine, in my opinion.

     

    my $.02.

     

    BT

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Oh, I thought your goal was to not cut up any original pieces, I apologize. I am going to add and you might not like it. But the most straight forward method to get two speakers installed is use an aftermarket trap door with speaker pods. Any kick panel with speaker pods will cause other issues that need to be addressed. Relatively speaking, running additional speaker wire to the back isn't difficult. If your current trap door is an original, and even if it's not original to your car, it has a lot of value.

    No, on the contrary, I appreciate ALL opinions. I realize it is not difficult to run the wires to the back, so this is not an issue.

     

    I will be running an automatic behind the 428SCJ so there will be a bit more space on the driver side as it relates to access to the dimmer and the E-brake. This will eliminate one of the problems I have read about when utilizing some after market speakers in that kick panel.

     

    I am continuing my research and am mulling over all the possibilities. To me, that is one of the beauties of this hobby (wading through the different options to arrive at the best decision for the application).

     

    Again, Thanks guys for the inputs as I am enjoying going through them and becoming more "audio" aware.

     

     

    BT

  6. Posted · Report reply

    hey, why are you putting a 200 gigawatt stereo in it then...huh?

     

    you could just use one of these

     

    . . . . images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRr0tC2GxWcHsnrba61OZ3bbSlX8XYK-Ahq6puiVfJFu0Mtk_XyhE16rQ

     

     

     

    or use two if you want stereo

     

    . . images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRr0tC2GxWcHsnrba61OZ3bbSlX8XYK-Ahq6puiVfJFu0Mtk_XyhE16rQimages?q=tbn:ANd9GcRr0tC2GxWcHsnrba61OZ3bbSlX8XYK-Ahq6puiVfJFu0Mtk_XyhE16rQ

     

     

    you don't need the fold down area

     

    . car%20sound.jpg

    .

    LOL!

     

    Yes, you know how it goes as you are putting a car together. As you go about "working" each subsystem, you (at least I do) tend to go overboard.

     

    Nice reality check, by the way!

     

    BT

  7. Posted · Report reply

    You don't have to cut your trap door. There are aftermarket trap doors with speaker pods built into them. Every Mustang parts house sells them. These aftermarket trap doors are ABS plastic, but they save you from cutting your original trap door. That's what I did. I boxed up and saved my original trap door.

    Yes, I am aware of the plastic ones.

     

    Actually, it is not that I am trying to save the metal trap door or anything as I am NOT a purist by any means. The trap door I have is not original to the car as I added the fold down. It is just that I rather hear the sounds of the big block rather than music. With that in mind, I didn't initially see the need for having music blasting all around me, if that makes sense.

     

    That having been said, I am considering ALL options as I make my final decisions...THANKS for the input!

     

    BT

  10. Posted · Report reply

    I am in the process of restomoding a 1969 Mach 1 (F Code). Essentially, I am putting together a more "modern" "R" code.

     

    I am not really a audio freak but would like to upgrade the stock AM/FM radio that came with the "F" code and am looking at one of the "Retro Sound" 200 watts systems.

     

    I have converted to the fold down rear and do not want to cut the trap door for speakers. I see that "NPD" markets two kick panels (without speakers) that are designed for:

     

    (1) a 4 X 6 1/2" speaker; and

     

    (2) a 5 1/2" round speaker.

     

    I am thinking one of these options will probably satisfy my current needs.

     

    Rather than do a LOT of research (remember, I am not really an audio enthusiast, by nature), I was wondering what some of you "audio enthusiasts" think:

     

    (1) would be a good option for which brand speakers will probably satisfy my needs?

     

    (2) as to what other option for speaker placement (other than cutting the trap door or my door panels) would work in case I ever decide to give this car to one of my kids?

     

    Thanks for any advice!

     

    BT

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Do you know the "history" of the rest of the motor?

     

    The fact that it apparently had the single plane" Torker" on it suggest to me that the motor might have been set up for high RPM use. If that is the case, just going out and finding a 600CFM carburetor may not really make for a good daily driver...especially with your AT and (I would guess) high (low numerical) rear gears.

     

    The motor is part of a system and everything needs to be geared toward ensuring that the "parts" are compatible for the intended use of the car.

     

    Again, many on the site can probably give you general information but there are a LOT of unknowns before anyone can reasonably expect to provide a response that will be in your best interest for what you may be trying to do. We really need more information, in my opinion.

     

    BT

  13. Posted · Report reply

    I would think that any square bore carburetor will PHYSICALLY fit. You could use any 4V non-spread bore carburetor from Ford (or any other manufacturer for that matter). Prior to the mid or early '70s, just about any original "Factory" 4V would have been square bore so they would all FIT. While a lot look the same and will fit, they often have different flow rates.

     

    I am not sure what you are trying to do but you need to keep in mind that the old Torker 289 is a single plane intake that is designed for operating in the 2500-6500 RPM range. If your are planning on using the Torker, you really should not be concerned with a "stock" Ford carburetor as there are many, many different ones utilized by Ford with all kinds of different flow rates.

     

    Knowing your intentions for the car might garner you a more specific response here on the site for your application.

     

    Hope this help!

     

    BT

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Besides, the one posted at 2:52pm today has nice high beams.... Sorry just trying to find the lighter side of the problem (LOL)... Okay this is a family oriented forum so we really can't have that kind of stuff here for sure. If people want to see stuff like that just google it.

     

    Besides, are people reporting the spam or just expecting poor old PAK to find it himself and take care of it? If it's the later, you have to report it folks. You can't expect PAK to do all the work. Give the guy a break and help out. I report everything I see. Even though I have to wait 60 second between posts. Sometimes I'm here for ten minutes just reporting stuff. Do you know how annoying waiting for 60 second can be? VERY (LMAO)!!!! B.

    YES, I report them as soon as I see them.

     

    BT

  23. Posted · Report reply

    I think we may be getting quite a bit away from the OP's original query. He indicated he is wanting to put together a driver or occasional show car.

     

    For this type build, I would still strongly encourage him to go with a crate motor (with a warranty) unless he has ready access to a machine shop and engine building skills. I do not believe there are many places now a days where a local machine shop or garage can put together a "regular" motor cheaper than the "bulk" builders. For that type build, a cast crank will be fine in my opinion.

     

    Don't get me wrong, I am essentially a racer and my last two motors have been put together by professional engine builders to my specifications. It comes down to the intended use.

     

    ...my $02:001_smile:.

     

    BT

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