jeepcj7304
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Posts posted by jeepcj7304
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I guess that explains the holes in my shock towers. LOL
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Here are the pictures.
The first one shows the holes in the bottom that have been filled "circled in blue".
The second shows the pins along the top edge.
The third and forth show the seam that would need to be smoothed and holes that would need filled.
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Ok after looking at pretty much every coupe in the gallery it appears that they all have the thick black trim around the back window. Was this every coupe that had this then not just the vinyls? If so can I get rid of it and just make it smooth?
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The previous owner of my project already started this conversion. He filled the holed at the base of the rear window where the wide black trim went and removed the vinyl. I know I need to fill the bolt holes from the rest of the wide black trim but is there any other holes that need to be made to mount the hardtop trim? If so where? My other thought is just smoothing the entire inner area around the rear glass with no trim.
I will post some pictures of what I am working with in a few minutes.
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I greased the ball joints today but there is no fitting in the tie rod ends. Is this the way they were from the factory? I guess that is another thing to replace now.
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Tire pressure is good, front end may need aligned but it doesnt seem to pull or wander, wheel bearings are all new and packed, brakes are new and not dragging. I am going to grease everything up this weekend and see if that helps.
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Sorry it is manual. I know that it is not like a new car but this doesnt seem quite right. Even at speed it takes to hands to make a turn. I did read last night that you can regrease the steering box and it can help alot. I guess I will try that this weekend.
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http://www.cjponyparts.com/radiator-3-row-aluminum-20-type-340-1967-1969/p/RADA33/
It was on sale last month for 200.00
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My wife drove the mustang around the block today and said that the steering was really stiff. This is the first time this car has been driven in 5 years. What all should I grease, adjust, check etc. to get it to loosen up some. It takes tow hands to take a corner.
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Engine is all set just waiting on the air cleaner which is on back order like everything from CJ Pony Parts. I also just bought a factory hood at a local swap meet. It is from a California car that the owner pulled it to install a shaker. No rust and perfect condition. My wife took it for its first spin no hood, no front end, and no glass. She was smiling ear to ear especially when she was doing burnouts.
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Photos of the seats before and after and then the finished interior minus radio and door panels.
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Ok the engine is running now. I had a problem that I just got finished fixing. The engine would run fine for about 20 seconds and then it would die. Finally figured out that the ignition coil that came with the car was bad and would stop sending spark after a few seconds. Replaced the coil and now it runs great. I also finished all the interior and installed the headliner. The headliner looks ok I can live with it for now at least. I am glad I attempted it myself but what a pain in the ass. I will post pictures later today or tommorow of the interior all finished up. I still need to order a set of door panels though. The motor runs great but now I have a new problem. The car cant get traction at all when you floor it. I am not sure if it is the 20 year old tires on it or that it does not have limited slip or posi rear. The exhaust is scheduled to be done next week then off to my friends house for paint.
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Well I ordered the pins hopefully they show up on time. Everything I have been ordering lately from CJ Pony parts is on backorder. I am ready for paint but am now waiting 2-3 weeks for my side scoops to arrive.
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Ok so I found a hood today at a swap meet. original 69 hood with scoop no rust dents or scratches owner wanted to change to a shaker hood. Anyway it is going on my 69 coupe 351 build. I wasnt going to use hood pins but since this hood already had them factory I am trying to decide. First how do you install the pins on a car that did not originally have them? Second can you use the regular hood latch and cover the holes? and third which would you all choose?
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I ended up doing it seperate and it want too bad.
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I assume it is the large 1 foot round U bend.
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no sticker
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I just got my new fuel lines today in the mail. They are the pre bent. Antone know what I need to unbend from shipping and which one goes where?
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I like the first one. It may just be the decal stripe as much as the color.
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Got it thanks starts right up
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I do, not have one. Posting it would be great.
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I have power coming off the ignition switch when I turn it to start. Does this then go through the Neutral safety switch? If so is there a way to bypass the NSS or test it to find out if this is the issue.
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after a little more checking I found that I have continuity to about 5 inches before it goes through the firewall on the red w/blue line off the S terminal. Then when I check it at the switch I do not have continuity. Does this wire go through a fuse or relay at all?
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Ok next problem now that I at least think the alt wiring is fixed I went to start the fresh motor and nothing. If I put power to the S terminal of the starter solenoid it fires right up. Obviously I screwed something up any idea where it could have been only touched the wiring right at the alternator, regulator, and starter relay.
vinyl top to hardtop conversion
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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Anyone ever tried to install 70 trim on a 69 rear window or seen it done? What about no trim anyone seen that?